I believe those connectors with the solder inside are using a lower melting point solder since they are also inside the heat shrink tubing. Because of that, I think because your're pre-tinning the wire, you're actually causing your own failure since the connector solder is inhibited by the tinning solder and us unable to flow into the wire ends..., plus your heat gun can't heat the tinning solder enough with the connector solder insulating it. When I use those connectors, I slide the connector on and past the end like heat shrink, then twist the wires together, and finally slide the connector over before using a lighter or heat gun. It very quickly flows into the wires and then I finish off the heat shrink part. First time I used them, I was putting a high rise handle bar set on a snowmobile. It's held up for years through summer heat and frigid cold in Jackson Wyoming winters. Try my method and see if you get better results? Update: As I read down through the comments, I see others have said the same thing and you made another video showing this method works. I thought about deleting this comment, but instead left it showing you listen to your readers. Thumbs up.

You're not supposed to tin the ends of the wires w/ those heat shrink/low temp solder connections. They work really good if you establish a light mechanical (twist) to the wires before you heat it.

6:27 The connector relies on the low temp solder penetrating the strands. You introduced high temp solder and covered the strands preventing it from working.

All the crimp I've done and I never thought about crimping the seams into the wire🤦‍♂️ Always learning, Thx :)

Solder Iron and heat shrink is probably the best type of connection, but the learning curve, setup, and limited location where you can do it doesn't make it desirable. The other two options are up to personal preference.

I solder and heat shrink all my stuff. When it comes to ring terminals and spades and stuff of the sort I usually pull the insulator off crimp and solder them then put heat shrink over the exposed bits. It has yet to fail me and it ensures the best connection I can get

This is a great video thanks for this. What connector would you use under bonnet/hood of a vehicle which has to stand higher temperatures?

Heat shrink solder couplings is the slowest and most expensive. It also doesn't hold as good as the others because it sometimes doesn't have enough solder to firmly hold it.

Maybe this is belt and suspenders but I use those Chinese things (that you shove the wires into from both ends) and solder the wires together with a nice wrap then slide the assembly into the heat shrink with solder thing. I have a piece of shrink tube also to make sure that the connection is waterproof I add that to the mix. At that point I shrink the tube (have not even bothered to test the solder part). All I really use the solder part of that hard tube is to keep the joint from sliding out. I do not pre-tin the joint between the wires but I do use a good flux and my solder has a flux core to go with it. When I tried to pull them apart the insulation on the wires began pulling off. If this is a terrible thing somebody tell me why and I will probably take them up on it. I REALLY like my connections to stay put (oh and this is for connectors that are either inside the engine bay or outside the cab)

Related if you're looking to desolder something adding some low temp tead solder can help remove components without damage.

could you do a comparison of ballasts with different wattages and if it's the bulb that makes a brighter light, or the ballast, or both. Pleasee I have aftermarket HID's in stock projector housing and I want a brighter light, would I change the bulb, the ballast, or both?

Do you recommend heat shrink for wires that are exposed to the elements?

Hey, i always crimp down on the seam too. Looks like I learned something in this video

3M Scotchkote FD is a coating designed for underground electrical splices . Expensive however well worth it . Also I crimp insulated terminal ends with the crimper designed for uninsulated crimps . Class 8 trailer work exposed to harsh environments .

You didnt use the one with built in solder correctly. You are suppose to have more wire exposed crossing over each other at the solder point. You can watch the solder move into the wires when it melts. Ive used these and have been quite successful. Mindful i always use an extra piece of shrink over it as well just to be safe.

Keep in mind most factory pins and many factory connectors are crimp on. Like with your controllers it's right part right technique.

I found that the solder center heat shrink thing works best if you hold the heat gun there a long time. That little blob of solder in the center must collapse and really grab the two pieces. I also expose more wire on each end than you did. I make sure the two wires are twisted together inside the tube. You didn’t conclude your test. Which one was the strongest? You also should do each one separately and check for continuity before pulling apart.

You could not see the join, but it doesn't matter it was an excellent demonstration of how not to join 2 wires using solder.

Nice video and presentation. Remember that not all solder wire are created equal. DIY solder wire melting point runs much higher than solder in these heat shrink connectors. The catch is overheated heat shrink and mixed solder. So at least we have to provide extra cooking time in the process. So don’t time the wire for these HS connectors.

Soldering tip: Clean your soldering iron tip by wiping it on a wad of wet paper towel. Tin it good first with flux and solder. A sponge gets funky, the paper towel is a throw-away.

I'd love to be able to solder like a pro the way you do it. But I don't have the skills nor the needed practice. So for people like me, I resort to the solder seel tubes. Is the traditional solder method better than solder seel? maybe? But that depends on the experience of the person soldering. In your case, the solder may well be better than the tubes. But if I tried the traditional solder method, results would be much different and not in a good way either.

Auto mechanic terms for these are... •Crimp= nut&bolt •heat shrink solder coupler= rivets •soldering iron = stick weld All can do the job but some hold better than others🧑‍🔧

I'm not a fan of those solder-belly splice conenctors but I think you'd get much better results if you would expose about 1/2" of conductor on each end of the wire, mesh the strands together then slip the connector on so that the meshed conductors are centered inside the solder ring. There's just no way to get any kind of mechanical strength when the conductors are just in there like 👉👈.

Nice comparison! I use a different brand of solder/heatshrink and they work great as an on-the-fly backup. They're actually meant to be used with a lighter! Heat guns get too hot, too quick, and end up getting too much dispersed heat. A standard Bic and those pre-soldered heat shrink connectors would be way faster. Not those specific ones, because it looks like the solder ball is awfully small in comparison to the ones I use

Crimp caps over butt connectors all day. But nothing beats solder connections

FOR STRANDED 2 BACK TO BACK WESTERN UNIONS!!! SOLID IF YOU ARE GOOD AT IT!!!

Good video really informative

7:25 you didn't even melt the solder fully. Rotating the wire and keeping ir further away from the heat gun, it can perfectly liquify all of that solder in there. Yours barely began to do that. Sorry but that was a terrible test for those solder butt connectors. They can hold together very good, when properly doing it.

You are using non-insulted crimpers on insulated connections.

cool vid, men from the boys...boys from the men 🤔cool tools/toys...toys/tools😏

And crimp connecters are unreliable on boat trailer wiring because of salt water corrosion.

Been customizing automotive electronics for well over 40 years now and there is only one way that I solder connections. This video shows the professional way to do it: ( kzfaq.info/get/bejne/p96hja15mLnKfmg.html ). If you want to have connections that will last for decades, this is the only way to do it. I sometimes also apply liquid heat shrink over the connection before applying traditional heat shrink to seal. Also, keep in mind that your connection will only be as strong as its mechanical connection, so twisting the wires is also important.

Super useful video, thanks for showing some of your secrets to the trade

I avoid cutting factory wiring at all costs. If there are ever issues with the build or the need to return to stock, the entire application is totally plug-and-play. Contrary to popular opinion, the solder-made heat shrink works great for me. I intertwine the wires just as you would if you are going to solder them, and then apply the heat shrink. None have ever come apart with all my efforts to do so. Some wires have burst at what was probably already a weak point, but never the heat shrink made with solder. I stand by it. Best thing after accidentally picking up the solder iron like it was a pen.

Nice 👍🏼 little tutorial

The china made ones have the seams

Dude I knew the butt connector would fail💯🙈

DON'T tin the ends of the wires on the solder type, remove cable sheathing both ends put soldered type crimp over one end of wire, push wire together so the strands of copper intertwine with each other then keeping wires pushed together slide solder connector over the ends then heat and melt solder. All this guy has done is butted two end together a real lousy weak joint tbh.

Lame🤨

So much wrong here. Ironic that you mock people who actually know what they are talking about. You should thank them. Nothing worse than a guy who acts like a teacher who knows nothing more than the watchers of his video... Expert KZfaqr poor wiring instructor. Perhaps watching a few videos before making one. 1- error Need to learn about the insulated and non-insulated crimp locations on your crimper... You are using the non-insulated crimp location in the jaw, on an insulated butt connector... You should be using the insulated location shaped like 2 female parts. Rather than the male/famale crimper which is for NON-insulated connections.. 2-error You don't/shouldn't tin the ends of the wire prior to using the Solder Seal Connector... you SHOULD mechanically wrap them first. then heat without tinning. 1- proper crimping: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/e8Wda9uXmNzKiXk.html 2- proper Solder Seal Connector use : kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mq-deZtntN3Ne2w.html Even with soldering most would tell you to twist the 2 wires together before soldering then Solder.... but you could argue it is overkill.... but only takes a couple seconds so why not do it...