Yea shit is so annoying iv never took any medicine for it but it is slowly ruining my life nj and everyone thinks I just don't care or do it on purpose I'm 31 and about as far in life as an 18 year old that just moved out 😅

Actually, ADHD would have made him open the case, start taking it apart, then start doing something else, then 3 other things. If anything this demonstrates OCD. Or maybe it's just totally normal behavior when you're dedicated to making something as nice as it can be. Not all behavior is symptomatic of an underlying condition.

​@@clintstathisalso many conditions are on a spectrum and different for everyone. This could indeed be a symptom of adhd.

@iamaduckquack yea that's my problem I got anywhere it'll take me hours when it's a thirty min trip it's stressful then you realize it get mad try to focus and do it again ten minutes later can't do anything on time bills, appointments, life in general fml

Oh look 🐇😅.

This. I believe its also why you can see the cloud around the jet as it breaks sound barrier, if i remember correctly

This is the correct explanation. Hope jay reads this

On a related point: having some squishy air in the top of the reservoir helps absorb the small increases in water volume from heating without the static pressure of the system shooting up.

Genuienly found this interesting :)

Yep...I have been using Alphacool reservoirs for a long time...I actually kind of like the fountian effect...I had one of those helix reservoirs a while back also

Besides the fountain effect, it helps with keeping air (micro) bubbles further away from the pump feed/outlet in the bottom, helping with loop de-aeration. Bottom inlet: use tall insert, bubbles are shot closer to the top, laterally. Top inlet: use the shorter inserts, same logic, bubbles are shot laterally, close to the top, and they go up, away from the pump. Especially for top inlet designs, if you have a high flow loop and shoot the stream directly down, there are higher chances that bubbles will get down back into the pump and get recirculated. If the stream shoots laterally, chances the bubbles go up and not get caught back into the pump suction stream increase significantly. But in the end, the benefit is only marginal, it speeds up the bubble clearing from ~a week to maybe a few days. And then it does not matter.

Sadly, I don't have Jay's money. So I'll have to keep my EK pumps until they explode like a Gigabyte PSU. LOL

​@@OlettaLianono one's gonna fault you for doing what you gotta do. If they do, they're stupid. It's the mindset that counts

@@OlettaLiano relatable

Especially with the prices of EK stuff

Anddd wow he’s not using their pump, but EVERYTHING apart from the pump/res in this build is ek… bruh does it matter at this point.

Damn, now I'm super nervous to take apart my wife's system as she's been running it for a while now and I haven't been able to take it apart can really clean it for a year now.

​@@joshua41175 Just an FYI they recommend you fluid swap Mystic Fog every 6 months. The particles can easily fall out of the solution. It's even worse with truly opaque fluids.

It is an opaque coolant simply with a lower density of nanoparticles. In some ways, this makes it more susceptible to clogging than a fully opaque coolant. Opaque coolants require very specific steps and even loop design to minimize fallout and they need to be in motion. Opaque coolants should almost never be allowed to sit. The first thing to do is to design a loop with limited dead water zones. Use the top inlet of your reservoir as using the bottom makes the reservoir a dead water zone. Avoid extreme bends, filters, flow meters, or anything that creates unnecessary restriction. if you follow the mix guidelines, fully and completely clean and prep the loop, then do a coolant swap after about a week to a clean batch of mystic fog or whatever opaque coolant you used for the initial fill, you will be fine barring some weird material reaction which, while rare, technically can happen. Better yet, transparent colored or clear coolants with clear, frosted, opaque, matte, or satin tube will always be way easier to work with.

@@joshua41175 I would look into how long you are suppose to run those fluids, If I'm not mistaken they have a limited life span of around 6 months before replacement is probably a good idea. I tried running the mystic fog for about 2 years, I had to replace it every 6 months as it just got bad every time. I stopped using it. Normal clear can go for 1-2 years depending on biocides used probably more. I replace my fluid every year using clear and I've had too many bad experiences with colours and fogs.

All my mystic fog coolant went completely clear after about a month, which kinda sucks. But my temps didn't seem to rise any, so my guess is all the crud is stuck in bottom radiator, rather than the fins of the CPU and GPU blocks. Just gonna roll with it until it's time to do a coolant swap, and then I'll go with clear, and maybe switch to frosted tubing.

Temp to high- All volt defult BIOS setting for the 14900ks incorrect. I manual input intels limits L 125, S 253, CL 307 I undervolt CPU 0.085 Fix allmost all the heat problems. How to make proper fan curve for all fans. 3 cores for some reason 15° hotter then the rest. Added new CPU Contact Frame. Added 3 more fans facing GPU. CPU runs at 50° gaming now. GPU runs at 53° gaming now. At 4k. No more odd 3 cores heat problem. Cinebench max temp now max 78° 40732score. AIO- Died , Fault with middle fan after one week. Replaced DDR5 doesn't play nice with 4 sticks. XMP Failed. Added RGB under the case. RBG is simply if you purchase the correct items. DONT get usb rgb motherboard can't control it. Added all white cable extensions. Don't plug directly into PSU.

All of the problems I had. This channel had the solution. Crazy tbh

You should have avoided Intel, LOL

I literally did the same a year and half ago! 13900k and 4080 FE. Though 10 year gap lol. Went through EXACTLY the same stuff as you! The only thing I haven't done yet is fan curves. What case did you go for? I was running on the cardboard box and then snapped up the nzxt h6 flow when it was released.

​@@Njazmointel > amd LOL

it is indeed *_SI_* Much Fun

Neat! Do the jets (un- and modified) make any additional noise? My inlet tube is completely submerged and makes no sound obviously and at idle my PC is quieter than a completely silent room.

@@LEXXIUS Not in mine, now. Mine are submerged ~5mm, so with the pump at full speed it will make some vorticies around the edges, but no, no noise that I can hear. At that point the fans have ramped up as well, and even though I try to get the quietist I can, they are still louder than any noise from the res/pump even catching a bit of air. At the same level the OEM configuration caught a lot of air & was audible. I ended up cutting the end off, including the OEM 'holes' and used the Dremel to cut the slots back in at the angle & size I wanted them, then glued the endplate back on. Flow is good & temps well under control.

My experience on my first time watercooling with hard tubing was to find unexpected snags and having to figure them out, like the thick 60mm push-pull rad was way too massive in the front (Thermaltake Core P5), so I had to find a way to put the 4 fans on the inside and how to make a seal for the airflow as the case had metal bent inwards for rigidity. Another one was to find the right length spacers and washers to make my pump and reservoir stand out more and not be hidden behind the radiator (EKWB pump mount and reservoir clamps have different mounting distances...), and another one was my Seasonic PSU fan was making a ticking bearing noise (normal for some bearings) and had no RGB (the whole corner of the build was just dark), so I carefully removed the warranty sticker and replaced the 135 mm fan with a 140mm Corsair fan. I had to adjust the screw holes with a dremel and made them a bit too loose but it holds. I also wrapped the whole case and parts in an automotive film wrap with a hexagonal pattern which made the case look a 1000 times better than the rough matte finish with a bunch of holes it was before.

Agreed

So he has more content to make every few weeks

I like using nickel plated copper lines because of this. They are hard to get right, but so worth it.

You know that's pretty smart

I like seeing your stuff too 😉

You might have air trapped in your loop, either from the reservoir being too low on water in general, or due to the way your lines are positioned. Especially possible if you're using soft tubing and the loop has been in place for a long time. Air getting pushed through the pump will cause a lot of noise, an it's about the only thing that will cause bubbling.

Something that Teenage Engineering and EK share in common is that lurid, vibrant orange. Different shades, but still _obnoxiously_ orange. _Annoyingly_ orange some might say. As a matter of coincidence, the colour scheme and iconography for Canonical's Ubuntu heavily incorporates orange. What is it about trash companies associating themselves with the colour orange?

@@bluephreakr That orange makes me think of Prusa 3D and LMG too. Prusa is highly respected in the 3d printer community, but are known for consistently scuffed product launches. I guess tech companies just like orange.

​@@bluephreakr high visibility 💀

I vaguely recall some sort of falling out between Mayhems and Jay a few years ago. Fluid kept separating and discoloring.

I had a very similar thought lol