Been watching your videos for a year now, the egr delete was something I wanted to do, glad I waited, your first video was a cheap evergreen delete and you didn't do the y bridge, I just bought the WC fab y bridge kit thanks to your videos, I have a 2007 classic lbz looks just like yours (but not as badass yet) love your videos keep em coming.

Thank you for not being like most of the people on KZfaq. I didn't hear one cuss word . I understand every word you say . Thank you!

Very well explained. I don’t own a duramax I’ve got a Cummins but this is a very well explained upgrade to your truck with visuals as to why. Nicely done sir, and like others said, no foul language, keep it up!

Love your Wrenching & Educational video's...… BEST DMax Channel on KZfaq! Thanks Man.

Best duramax channel on KZfaq!! Continue the good Work

Another good video. Thanks for taking the time to explain this. Have a good weekend

My son and I when we talk about about someone who is outstanding. We say.. He’s a GOOD Man! You Sir are a GOOD MAN. Sadly, We don’t say it often nowadays.

Thanks for the info. I’m going to wait and do it right

I feel like there’s a misconception that the blocker plate is the root cause of the bellows failure on the exhaust up pipe. It most likely is caused by removing the egr cooler and the section of pipe that was connected and supported by the egr cooler is now not properly anchored. With the vibrations and expansion/contraction from heat, that bellows fatigues and cracks.

I’d agree with this, if the cooler was removed & there was nothing supporting the up pipe However, if the cooler stays in place, and you put a blocker plate between the cooler and up pipe, it’s just fine.

Iv spent a lot of money because of you lol but I got the y bridge and the uppipe! Love the looks of them. Keep up the great work!

Great video!! Subbed!! 👍🏻👍🏻

Thanks Earl keep up the good work.

I have a blocker plate but the plan is to just replace that up pipe with a ppe it’s just to get to and from work for now. Awesome information that is much needed.

Another thing to get rid of is the stock y bridge. Their seals go out causing a boost leak. I replaced mine with one from PUSHER hands down best on the market.

I love the videos. I would love to know where did you get those rims and were they expensive

Had a block off plate on my lbz for a while and it broke on the usual spot but luckily my buddy has a lml and he deleted his and he just gave me his up pipe that I cut and welded a piece of metal and just installed yesterday, also I'm really happy to have all the power back on my lbz

While the end result is the same, I have to disagree on the cause of bellows cracking after the installation of a blocker plate. In my opinion, as an engineer, I believe it cracks due to new-found thermal stresses caused by the stagnant flow in the EGR branch. The exhaust pressure in the up pipe will be very similar to when the EGR was installed. Stresses caused by thermal gradients can be immense - think of what happens when you put a cold baking sheet into a hot oven: *boing* and the baking sheet warps.

I had the sinister blocker plate and mine did the same on my LBZ.

We refuse to do them at our shop....always replace with an lb7 up pipe. I have repaired so many trucks that have the blocker plate delete.

Will try to make it out to the meet on the 23rd!

My turbo needs to be replaced and following your videos, I am taking your advice fully delete the egr and install a new up pipe. Thanks for the discount on shipping from W C fabrication . This might be a challenge but with your videos I think its possible

Bro thank you. New lml owner here. Saving to delete. Was gonna go blocker plate , not now. Add another 6months the saving tho lol.

Respectfully, I owned an professional exhaust service center for 31 years and your analogy on the flex joint is 100% incorrect. The "added pressure" from the block off plate WILL NEVER add stress to the flex joint as the exhaust will ALWAYS take the path of least resistance, that being the down pipe exit. What you are referring to as a "Bellows" is a heat and expansion flex joint, which will allow the pipe to flex with torque and heat cycles. Unless you completely block off your exhaust system you will NEVER produce enough pressure in that flex joint to cause it to tail, the failure in the flex joints are from flex and heat cycles, non stainless FJ's will succumb to erosion due to the environment. For your analogy to be correct, the flex joint in the lower pipe would fail under "pressure" but will not as the gas takes the path of least resistance. The most efficient way to stop that flex joint from coming apart is to secure it if you remove the EGR, if it it simply blocked and allowed to swing in the heat cycle, it will fail however it HAS NOTHING WHAT SO EVER to do with pressure causing the failure. Once the EGR is removed, the leg is no longer secured and the leg is not at the mercy of being ever cycled and THAT is why they fail, just as if you would take a piece of thin metal and bend it back and forth several cycles, it gets heated and breaks, same principal. In NO WAY can I debate you on a Diesel build, however I know in this matter (the exhaust flex joint) you are incorrect on the reason for this flex joint failure, if a block off plate is used and the head of the leg is secured, allowing the flex joint to cycle as designed, it will NEVER fail due to "pressure" as you are describing. These flex joints have been place on catalytic convertors since the late 70's and are incredible when secured, however when a person allows their broken exhaust hanger to go unrepaired, they will fracture, just as the EGR leg will. PRESSURE has nothing to do with it. GREAT CHANNEL, stay safe and God Bless.

its because of TM that when i deleted i went with Y bridge, cut and welded the up pipe. His experiences helped in my decisions and i've been trouble free. Pry shoulda threw in your stock Y bridge experience in with that video! But hey great channel congrats on 25k Sub's

Watched almost all your videos been a fan thru you dirtymax fix...got a 2011 duramax def fluid emissions system has gone out 3 times since I got the truck,twice under warranty 1 time without and that's now,,going to do a full delete of the junk on my truck, had and problems I need to know About? Thanks for any advise.

Super helpful!

Been watching your videos for years. Im a michigan boy. Duramax through and through. Wish you could give me a hand

The blocker plate that came with my sub $20 ebay egr delete kit was put on my 2004 Lly @ 108k miles & now I’m @ 415k miles with a ppe 120hp tune the same time it was egr & exhaust filter deleted-belows are still holding strong 💪🏼 so how many miles do I have to wait until it explodes😂? Just curious although you did say 9 out of 10 times-guess my truck is the 1!!! I’m going to celebrate with 9 boosted launches!!!!

Is there a specific blocker plate used for where the egr cooler connects to the firewall? Looking into doing your full y-bridge egr delete on an lly, but need to address the hose and the blocker plate that was included in the first kit. Where can I buy these two parts since they are not included in the wcfab y-bridge kit?

Hope your having a great memorial day weekend thanks to guys and girls like you that we can do the things we do in this country.

Bad ass truck man do I hear a 10mm stroker cp3 and a turbo upgrade and need more lol so cool man

Thank you for, "dumbing" that down, I have been somewhat confused on the whole egr thing, still what more understanding but will keep feeding my brain. When I do, do a delete, will I throw a code and if so, is efi the only way to keep it cleared? Thanks again for staying humble, sharing and never judge.

I did the blocker plate first and my up pipe cracked in the same spot. now I have the full sinister delete with intake elbow and up pipe. way better

I had a blocker plate on my lml and it was a bad idea. Now I have Ppe up pipes and race manifolds .Oh boy big difference.

I'm glad you are are guinea pig. Thanks for helping

Man I thought I saw your truck today it just like it just the guy had a light bar on the top of his truck

I find it interesting to see that you still have your OEM filter and housing intact. You do have a lift pump correct? So why not delete the OEM filter and housing and run Direct from your lift pump to your motor? That factory filter and housing is only weakening your fuel pressure the lift pump sends to your CP3.

Hey brother would you let me know what type of mirrors you have on your truck and where you got your front light to the manufacturer is

Myself and the forever truck will be up that way the 23rd

Cool Truck

I am looking a buying a GMC Van that has a LGH Duramax. Can you tell me if there are any issues that I should be looking for when buying this van. It has low miles but lived in Alaska so it probably has some idle time I will assume. Any input is greatly appreciated. Love your channel. Keep em coming

What if it’s your only option to do a blocker plate cause deleting your whole egr is illegal and have to pass emissions every year where I live

I’ll be there!

Can someone explain to me if the EGR delete and the y bridge kit are the same thing or not? I'm confused on the matter.

It’s not the actual pressure, it’s from not being mounted to egr cooler then when you you gas it, it will flex causing pipe to break, if you install blocker plate correctly and mount it securely it will not blow the pipe

Is there a delete kit that will allow the egr and cooler to remain on the engine? I plan on cutting the up pipe and welding it shut but leave the elbow bolted to the cooler. I'm also going to install a "finger stick" to basically bypass the egr so it will have to also remain on the engine. All this is for emissions inspection purposes. I want the benefit of deleting the egr and added air flow but still need to keep everything in place for looks. I also would like to replace the factory y-bridge.

Thanks i have lly doing headgaskets arp studs and down pipe upgrade. Ill have to order the up pipe so i don't have this issue 👍 thanks

Mine blew out in less than a year. Current fighting the stuck bolts on the passenger side Up Pipe. Have been soaking them for days in penetration oils. Have hit them with a torch. Nothing works. Probably gonna have to break them off, remove the manifolds and the turbo and get a machine shop to drill them out and clean up the threads. Such a nightmare job. Replacing the OEM junk with PPE up pipes and down pipe. They're the best you can get. Internally sleeved reinforced bellows on these PPE pipes will never blow out.

I have a block plate and have the EGR turned off via tune. Been that way for 3 years with no issues yet. Running close to stock power though

I got a few questions about the egr delete and the down pipe

i did put 2 washers under the blocker plate tab to make it straight AND i did use 4inch hose clamp to keep the up pipe straight.... wish me luck aswell as 2 4 inch hose clamp that hold my y bridge together with 2 new oring ! :D lol im pushing my luck lets see

Yea if your tuning and pushing more pressure through then yes that’s possible. But on a stock truck this isn’t going to happen. So if you are worried about emission checks coming to you then use a blocker and fingerstick.

Bs. Same pressure and heat as it is when egr valve is closed. Mines been blocked for over ten years. Zero problems.

I had to look where Perry, MI was...not too far. I’m in Chelsea

I’ll be there 🤘June 23

If you use the pipe do you have to do anything else with the egr? Block the open end etc?

If I decide to do wcfab high flow bundle kit...would I still need blocker plates? Or just some sort of cover for any holes once I take out egr?

Ok Senor , asking for some advice . I have a 2008 Chevy Duramax 6.6 that I bought used and the guy said it was deleted n detuned . Well she’s been limping bad so my first route was to change the fuel filter and I added a fuel cleaner from Walmart & she seemed fine but she would smoke heavily on take offs and it would limp right away and then much later she’d have full power . So as I was researching what’s causing it to limp and use a lot of fuel I ran across the dpf filter and how to remove it to remove the traps to the filter & blow it out w air while a guy in the UK showed his method which involved using a portion of draino n water to clean it and then give it an acid bath n final water rinse . So I was like either way I don’t own crows foot tools or the long bars n my Jack isn’t working and I’m broke . So my friend suggested that I check the EGR SENSOR OR EFR VALVE . Well I sprayed degreaser underneath and while I was down there I noticed right away that I don’t have a catalyst converter nor do I have an dpf filter just a straight pipe . Ok but I’ve noticing a wet spot next to the air filter I guess where this pipe runs to and it smells like radiator fluid though my radiator fluid is fine . So the up pipe that you mentioned where may I get one and also about the blocker and cutting it so that it ya can block it there after ya cut it off ? If I send ya pictures do ya think that you’d be able to tell me what I have and what ya recommend to install ? I’ve taken your advice on how to remove and install the starter so far n the power booster and power steering pump . Well I don’t know how to paste a photo on here .

Hello T.M. I realize this is an old post I'm reading but maybe you will answer my question. I have an 04 lly. I want to put a blocker plate in between the up pipe and the stock egr cooler. If I do this should I unplug the egr motor? Will the plate cause damage to the egr motor?

I've heard people talk all the time about using LB7 parts to help do an EGR delete and actually heard in one video that the LB7 engine doesn't need an EGR delete, is that true? From what I understand your saying that an LB7 up pipe doesn't need to be replaced, what about the Y bridge? Please excuse my ignorance I have always worked on gasoline truck engines for the most part and haven't worked on diesel engines very much and I recently got an 03 Durumax with the LB7 engine and I'm just learning how to work on it. Any advice would be helpful and appreciated, thanks 👍

Here’s the deal I put in a blocker plate because all the bolts for my up pipe are rusted in there salad I already snap one off trying to get to the pipe off and had to fix it in the truck so at this point I’m kind of screwed and waiting for that to blow.

Is that quick steel around that crack?

So with a full egr delete what kind of software,tuner,combo did you need to function truck??

Can I install an lb7 up pipe without doing an egr delete on my lly?

Watching 5 years later bought truck with the blocker plate and I had the up pipe bellow blow not the egr side

I'm still waiting on my uppipe I just need to know where my coolant line connect up at

So the lb7 up pipe will replace the lbz up pipe? Do you have to block off what the egr goes to?

I’ll be there. I know Alex and Aaron. Hopefully my lb7 is fixed by then. Have to do headgaskets and injectors 🤦‍♂️

If I just install a blocking plate on the up pipe do I need to do anything else?? I have a efi live tunner installed already. It’s a 2009 lmm I just wanna do it simple for a couple months

Hey man, I have the lb7 and I’m starting to have the iconic injector issues. Especially now that you are workin in the shop, are you willing to do a video on injectors? Just some insight for us average joe DIY mechanics. I’m not looking for race HP, just injectors that are known for being bulletproof.

The exhaust pressure is not what blows the bellows out. It is the poorly made blocker plate mount that puts physical pressure on the up pipe bellow. You need a blocker plate mount that is manufactured at the same exact spacing/angle as the EGR cooler so it does not fail.

Dmax store lb7 up pipes heavy duty construction great prices and even better flow, and dirty hooker diesel y bridge great staff super informative and they send to all 50 states 😁😁😁

Just bought my lbz, bone stock with 4 inch straight pipe. Im assuming deleting egr makes the truck breath better?

i don't know what you are talking about,I'm not a mechanic, i have a 2008 -2500HD duramax. bad fuel mileage ,black smoke on acceleration and bad power, 2 dealer mechanics and one 40 yr mechanic said don't chip it just drive. i told all 3 to shove-it ! i will drive it off a cliff before i settle with this. i did the off road company line exaust upgrade with chip and WOW , 4 mile per gallon better 17.5 mpg and no more smoke and wow the power ! that was 150 k back so i can say it was the right thing to do.hope this helps someone .

I did do egr delete but no blocker plate. what happens it I do nothing else

I own a 2006 LLY/LBZ 200k+ and am trying to decide whether to do full delete or just replace the EGR coller and clean the intake elbow and re-install. I may .install upgrade downpipe. I have watched tons of videos and am totally confused at this point. I am about to replace leaking intercooler and thought I would do some other work while I had the truck apart. I cleaned the egr and intake elbow about 5 years ago, but didnt really know enought to clead the coller at the time. I'm worried that coolrer is gunked up something terrible. I don't really pull tow much load anymore, just a light flats boat at highway speeds. My son is about to go off to college and I want to get as much done as possible before I lose my helper.

Welded mine up after 3weeks mine did the same thing. Wasn't going to pay for one built without it, since cutting it off was easy. Welded 1/4" plate to plug it. Done

Quick question. Has anyone made a fuel filter adapter for a caterpillar fuel filter for a 2022 L5P Duramax? Change my earlier Duramax systems for the cat filter but cannot find one for this year /. Model.

What is the best egr complete kit

Does someone make a y bridge kit for people who can’t delete their egr?

I have 2011 gmc lml I have bought egr delete kit the kit did not have coolant line directions

Ugh, I have a blocker plate on mine.....20k miles........so the fix is an lb7 up pipe? What else should be done at the same time to save install money? Mine is a 2015

That cat fuel filter is sexy lol

Oh heck yeah! Michigan Duramax crew!

Do it right the first time. It’s not cheap and it’s not fun but this could’ve been avoided. Love you videos. I just bought the complete wc fab kit cause you haha.

June 23rd it is 👍

If I have the blocker plates and do the full delete do I need to get retuned. Running efi live

Are the bolts prone to breaking on the up pipe when you remove them? Just wondering if I should be prepared for more little stuff when I do the up pipe

A blocker plate on a stock platform will work fine. Trying to build more power you're going to want to do the full kit correctly.

how typical is it for one/or more of the up pipe bolts to break when removing/upgrading? if one breaks, is it ok to run with 2 of the 3 for a few days until you can pull the turbo to remove the broken bolt? i've done a PRO FAB intake tube/egr delete kit as well as downpipe and drivers side exhaust manifold(upgraded to LML manifold) and all the bolts have come apart without any trouble. im hoping when i do up pipes soon i wont have any issues. 08 LMM dmax here.

Hahahaha I literally just dealt w this.

Just had to do mine on my LBZ I was running tune 5 and it was leaking and caught my fire wall fabric on fire.

Truck master What all I need for the egr delete Fan of ur truck vids

Mine did the same crap within 1200 miles of installing the blocker plate

Would you say that all the stuff you have installed under your hood, really helps & is it all worth the $ spent? I have 121 miles on my 2006 LBZ, & other than the cat filter with adapter, fuel port work & the airdog pump, I havnt done much too my truck. It's been a great truck pulling a 34ft 4 slant gooseneck horse trailer, 28ft toy hauler & a 30ft bumper tow utility trailer. And I have a 6" fts lift with 35" mt tires.

I just had a [DPF and EGR] delete done on my otherwise stock 2010 LMM. The truck runs great, but the method was to use blocker plates on the up pipe and the cold side intake with the removal of the EGR cooler and valve. I may do some additional changes later as time/money allows, and I see that the EGR blocker plate is anchored to the engine block securely, so the up pipe cannot move/flex. My son-in-law has had the same setup from the same shop for at least 4 years now with no issues...so my question is this...how long does it take for the up pipe to fail typically? Am I safe waiting a year or so to do that replacement?

You should live stream the subscriber meet.

Shortly after a delete kit on 07 Chevy duramax I noticed my oil level was low and there was oil residue in the intercooler pipe. I was told the only thing it could be was a turbo oil seal leak. Do you agree?

Do you have install video of the up pipe?