Will definitely take that aa a compliment 👍

was just thinking the same lol

This... new video to show people, then trying to explain it yourself.

That guy is good but Motive beat him by leaps and bounds in terms of making the learning enjoyable and not just feel like a lecture. Every aspect is covered, visual demonstrations, easy to understand verbal explanation and experience to back the knowledge. Woo shit yeh Motive.

we'll said 👍👍

BBu

I was just about to start the build of exactly what you're talking about. Anyone who's seen a bong knows the dirty air needs to enter from the bottom and filter up through the filter media. All of the cans I see have both intake and exhaust at the top or on the side, right beside each other. This will accomplish very little as the air will take the path of least resistance and just bypass the filter media. So what would happen (for conversational purposes) on a brand new GDI car if you just ran a hose from the crank case and dumped it out the bottom of the car? Just let it vent to the open air? Check engine light? Anything? I suppose you would need to cap off the return line back into the intake to prevent an undesired pressure differential in the intake, but aside from that - any issues?

And there is generic “mishimoto cans” really cheap that are exactly the same as the mishimoto on amazon or ebay.

This will cause to much airflow restrain?

@@g.dejong1594 I've had no problems with that setup. Crank gas still flows through the can.

Saturday evening here on the East Coast

Saturday afternoon on the west coast

Sunday evening......in Canada.

It's not even the evening. It's afternoon. 🙊

Isn't blowing out the dipstick more indicative of a pressurised crankcase than head? Genuine question.

@@ericn7698 That is pretty much explained @ 1:12 in the video - it's the same pressure in that starts in crank case andd goes to the head from what I understand. Pretty sure evo's have extra breathers to get it back to head so main issue is then getting rid of it from there

@@BarbecuedPossum a high boost engine application, there is common big breather pipe mod on evo valve cover.. (atleast is common mod even on street car where i live) stock pcv system were deleted alltogether and replaced with direct bigger open breather system

Yup. All this means is your ventilation holes are too small. You have a lot of extra blow by and your two pcv vents aren't keeping up. Tap a pressure gauge on the oil cap and make the two holes bigger.

I’d check for cylinder bore roundness, cylinder bore finish, and excessive piston to wall clearance to get a better ring seal. Attack the problem at the source. Watch Total Seal’s videos about ring seal soup. Consider new gas ported rings at your next rebuild.

I'm glad someone said it. Thx so much. I was thinking it might be the most liked post, and at the top... but, oh well. Thx again!

Check out Tracy lewis performance and his catch can system work with check valves before and after the throttle body so it's always sucking pressure from the crankcase to the catch can.

Watch the video again mate. Your logic is what we sued to think until we learned.

@@MotiveVideo Thx for the reply. I'll stay open minded. Love your videos. Hello, and goodbye from Austin TX.

@@MotiveVideo ​ I'm an Engineer in the USA, and you're an Engineer in Australia. I hope you'd be willing to work with me on this. Lets see if we can be open minded, and learn something. One Scientist to another. I might be the only one learning something, and that's great. I think there is two things to study, first thing to study is how a PCV system works, second is to study about condensation. Condensation is the easy one, so lets start there. " Condensation occurs when warm air collides with cold surfaces, or when there's too much humidity in a closed area. When this moisture-packed warm air comes in contact with a chilly surface, it cools down quickly and releases the water, which turns into liquid droplets on the cold surface." taken from envirovent dutcom, found doing a google search for "what causes condensation" I think we can agree that in the case of an engine that has sat for a while, atmosphere/air is inside the engine, just as you have outside. Therefore, this air has moisture in it, and when the air is heated, that moisture wants to stick to something cooler than the heated air. This might be the inside of the top of the rocker/cam/valve cover, maybe the oil pan, or really any wall inside the crank case. Moisture packed warm air is in there, and as it comes in contact with a cooler surface it release the water as it cools down quickly. Moisture comes from the air, the air that is inside the same closed area, and it collects on a surface also on the inside. Next the PCV system. "The PCV system consists of the PCV valve, grommet, tube, and air supply hose to the crankcase. Check around these fitting for any signs of oil. Everything must be tight. Oil leakage indicates a problem with the system. The PCV valve is closed at low RPM's to prevent vacuum leak and engine misfire. When open the PCV valve allows the flow of crankcase gases. The PCV valve is located on the valve cover of most engines. Combustion gases are forced past the piston rings and into the engines crankcase. A drop in intake manifold vacuum occurs when the engine is accelerated. When the intake manifold vacuum is low, a light spring holds the PCV valve in its open position. The open valve results in maximum crankcase ventilation. Conversely, when the engine is idle, a high intake manifold vacuum pulls the valve upward, blocking the port to the intake manifold. A stuck closed PCV valve results in excessive crankcase pressure. It forces oil past the engine's seals and gaskets. A stuck open PCV valve or leaking hose results in a large vacuum leak, a rough idle, and drivability issues like surging. A closed or tarnished PCV valve can cause engine oil to back up into the breather. Most PCV valves contain a light spring and should rattle when shaken. If the valve doesn't rattle, its clogged and needs replacement. At idle, with the PCV valve removed from the valve cover, there should be an engine vacuum at the PCV valve inlet. Placing your thumb over the leaking valve should plug the vacuum leak. The PCV system regulates crankcase pressure and ventilates gas fumes from the crankcase into the intake manifold. This system protects the engine oil from premature contamination. It also circulates blowby gases into the intake manifold for combustion." taken from FreeASEstudyGuides dutcom, found doing a search for "what happens when a pcv valve is stuck open." ASE is short for the National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence which Mechanics in the USA use to show proficiency. AKA if you are a mechanic in the USA and you are ASE certified, you get paid more, and you might only get the job if you have that. So far so good? Any thoughts? My thoughts are about how the PCV valve isn't just a 1-way valve, but rather it is 1-way with light vacuum/part throttle, but dead stops at high vacuum at idle. Under boost [and if attached between the crankcase and inlet/intake manifold], opposite direction of the 1-way, it is also a dead stop. I was thinking it was just a 1-way valve, but no, it's more than that. Agree? Disagree? So far so good? When the moisture in the air condenses into a liquid, what should we do with it? Back to oil sump or should be collect it to later dump it? Or are we jumping the gun, and not enough info yet? What's missing if so? Anything we should add?

@@MotiveVideo I want to add something...This is trivial, but sometimes back to basics is a good thing... If you heat up and boil water, what happens if you leave it boiling for too long? The water disappears from the pot/container. It turns to vapor, or a gas. Water turns to gas at a high temperature. It's called a boiling point. What happens when you cool a gas? A gas turns to liquid. This is called the condensation point. Boiling point, condensation point. Turns a liquid to a gas, and a gas back to a liquid. Can you think of a scenario where this will happen repeatedly to the internal chambers of an engine (aka crankcase)? Could this become worse over time, from repeated warm ups and cool downs? Is it a sealed system that won't ever add more moisture over time? If it doesn't ever get worse, then no issues, right? What if it isn't a sealed system and it can accumulate more moisture over time? Is that bad? I don't know... thoughts?

@@MotiveVideo Here's another interesting read/thought. According to an Article on the history of the PCV, "In 1967... PCV quickly became standard equipment on all vehicles worldwide because of its benefits not in in emissions reduction but also in engine internal cleanliness and oil lifespan." From what I'm reading, and understanding, PCV is actually good for keeping the engine internals clean and longer life. Engines definitely run better when clean, especially when you think about the carbon buildup on direct injection boosted engines. Here's another thought. As I mentioned in the last comment, the PCV valve is suppose to shut the connection from the intake manifold to the crankcase under boost. If you have no PCV valve in place between the manifold and the crankcase, and you have a catch can connected directly from the old PCV port and breather port, then the crankcase pressures only have one way to go, and that is to the oil catch can... THUS, if you have a ton of blowby, that is the reason why your oil catch can will fill up to the max going down the dragstrip for those 9sec, in your decently quick car. Can that blowby be reduced somehow? We have 3 scenarios: idle: No connection between manifold and pcv valve needed, seal manifold shut part throttle, no boost: we need vacuum pulling contaminants out of the crankcase, need an oil catch can, and a vacuum source, although not part of the operation of a drag car full throttle, boost: No connection needed between manifold and pcv valve needed, seal mani shut Here's where it gets interesting, the full throttle, boost. Under boost, positive pressure from the manifold to the pcv valve, it will shut down. BUT, if there is sufficient blowby pressure, and you have the pcv valve in place connected to the intake manifold, then the pressures in the crankcase may indeed build up past the pressure in the manifold, and it may indeed open the PCV valve. Which of course may also allow contaminants in manifold, and then the combustion chamber. So, even though it sounds like under boost, the PCV valve connection to manifold is not needed/used, it actually is. At least, I think so. The last thought I have... How bad are these contaminants? Has there actually been a study on how much it will deteriorate the octane? Water doesn't deteriorate octane, its actually the opposite, it will cool the charge, and reduce the chance of detonation. The oil will deteriorate the octane. Are both combined really that detrimental? Obviously, for a street car... what we want is that cleanliness and longer life, but what we don't want is those contaminants harming our octane or our intercooler efficiency. How can both be implemented is the question? It sounds like a properly setup oil catch can is the answer, and incorporating the PCV valve and system already in place. The harm to the octane is the same argument with the drag car. How much is it really hurting? The oil that is in the intercooler is not getting cooked like it would in the combustion chamber, and with air flowing over it, it would just push it aside and pool at the bottom, so not really a big issue, but how big is it really? Is cleaning the intercooler periodically enough? Lastly, placing a catch can(s) within the PCV system... will that hurt the systems balance due to the catch cans reducing the vacuum/response of the system? As for cleaning the combustion chamber & valves of the carbon buildup in a direct injection (or really any) engine... That's easy, run a bottle of seafoam cleaner through the engine (lookup how to use seafoam through the induction system). I run one bottle of cleaner through the induction system (which runs through the manifold and intake valves) at the same interval/time as when I do an oil change. Every 3k miles. If you don't do this maintenance, over time, this will build up and deteriorate the flow of air, and cause excessive knock... which you might confuse for decreased octane, which is not the same thing. So far, I'm thinking, if it's a drag car, why not, throw in an oil catch can or two between the connections of the PCV system to remove the contaminants, just for safe measure, as you don't want excessive blowby all over your engine bay, like that decently quick 9sec car has. For a street car, I'm not convinced one way or the other, yet. I'm definitely an advocate for doing routine cleaning of the combustion chamber and intake valves... on any car, street or drag. Please help, if you have the answer, any thoughts, or input.

Tracy lewis performance check out his catch can system

Sure are

There is plenty of hate on the internet. Figure out how to pull the hate out of the internet, and you might be a genius!

That’s what is fitted in the cam covers. The Hi-Octane baffles are very similar to the mines products.

@@troyvantrienen9418 thought its something worth touching on if Andrew does any type of follow on video from this. Replicated the Mines/Hi Octane baffle in my own 4AGE

no