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I stopped using Gorilla Glue when I learned it wasn't made from real Gorillas.

As usual the Mr Rogers of wood gives the info. One of the reasons I like this guy is because he is succinct. Some people rattle on with info that isn't necessary. My patience taps out long before they finish their soliloquy!

Alright, I’ll listen to this guy talk about glue for eleven minutes.

It's important to stick with the right glue. Topics like these really help woodworkers bond.

White glue for paper Yellow glue for wood Gorilla glue for hair

25 years as a furniture restoration professional with my own business and one of the most unique uses for Gorilla Glue I ever came up with was in the restoration of weathered, dry rotted, cracked and almost pull'em apart with your fingers window sills. I am talking of course about the weather side. We purchased an old farm house about 10 years ago and several sills really could have been broken off with your hands. Solution. (best done on a cloudy day) Mist the window sill thoroughly (the gorilla likes it damp as Stumpy Nubs says) Don a pair of heavy duty rubber gloves or a couple of pair of the blue ones, lay on a coat of gorilla brushing (very stiff brush) it into all those huge cracks and crevices or just work it in with your fingers if you like using a squeegee motion across the grain to force it in, you don't have to level it to the top of the crevices, obviously because this stuff is going to foam out of there and all over the entire top as well, as you might expect. Let it do it's thing. After it sets up nice and hard take your multi tool (vibrator tool) with a flat blade installed and "shave" off the top of the window sill. If the glue has set well you can now go for your orbital sander and sand the whole thing. (Gorilla sands pretty well if you let it set up well) Try not to go too crazy with the sanding because some of the gorilla has penetrated the "punky" wood of the surface wood and it will waterproof the surface for you and give it a new surface as well... but you would like to have it relatively smooth Next step prime it with a decent primer after that dries take a premium caulk apply to the whole top surface smoothing with your freshly gloved hands or use a auto body squeegee....smooth it out as best you can because this is the surface you are going to paint. (misting the caulk might help you out here and working on that cloudly day as well.) After your caulk dries you are ready to apply your finish paint. Since the glue jumps gaps and grabs without a clamp this procedure holds tight quite nicely. My window sills have held up now for over nine years pushing 10 with no deterioration. I know this seems to be dicey but it doesn't take that long, at all , compared to taking out a whole sill. Hope this helps with someone that has a house over 100 years old as I have. Edit: would like to add that the reason for the caulk coating is that, gorilla when cut and sanded is very porous, bubbly if you will and it looks like foam in the cracks, the caulk fills in those bubbles. PS: Acetone clean up, on the gorilla glue, if you get it on you or surrounding surfaces.....get after it fast, it doesn't take prisoners.

I'm a white glue person. It simply tastes better. You failed to convince me.

The clarity of information in your videos is surpassed by none. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us in such an incredibly concise way.

One hot melt glue related tip worth sharing would be that it can be easily released cold with Isopropyl alcohol.

I like those tubes of stick glue that are like oversized chapsticks. I just used it to hold down paper templates that I make on the printer. When I'm done, it's easy to peel off and clean up. Just don't count on it for ANY kind of strength.

In just about 10 minutes I learned everything I ever wanted to know about shop glues! It just can't get better than that! Thank you for doing my work for me!

I find Gorilla Glue quite useful in certain situations, but certainly wouldn't use it for furniture/cabinetry work. For example, putting a picnic table together using Gorilla Glue, it is under the exposed surface, so any slight mess from the stuff is out of sight, but it holds things together much better than just mechanical fasteners and is simply stronger than any other glue I've used. I also used it extensively building a small dock at a pond. But for furniture making that foam would be a NIGHTMARE! I'll stick with Titebond for that work. One thing I learned to do using white glue (in the days when Titebond and the like were yet unborn) was in a special glue-up for turning on a lathe. This was for turning on a face plate. The wood for the project was glued together, then a scrap board was glued to the bottom BUT with a sheet of bond paper (notebook paper or typing paper) between the scrap piece and the actual project. Then, the face plate was screwed to the scrap once the glue had set. After turning, a wide wood chisel could be placed on the seam where the scrap was glued on, flat side TOWARD THE GOOD PART. A good whack with a mallet, and the paper split, leaving white fuzz half the original thickness of the paper on each surface. This was easily sanded off the work piece and done. I don't know if this would work with other glues, and I would be afraid to try.

I collect vintage guitars. They almost always require the neck joint to be disassembled and reset after decades of use. The constant asymmetric tension caused by the strings cause the neck geometry to change over time making the guitar difficult to play. Fortunately all these older guitars are constructed with hide glue making the neck joint disassembly easier.

This is truly one of the best channels I have ever discovered on KZfaq. Thank you so much for all your videos and the information you share

When lining a small box I made for my granddaughter, I cut some pieces of cardboard just undersized and then applied craft felt with spray adhesive. The box looked pretty nice for her Barbie jewellery!

I really appreciate you sharing your accumulated knowledge. You're very professional at explaining things.

I have used gorilla glue to repair a crack by drilling into the end grain and first pouring in yellow glue followed by gg followed by a dowel. The glues foam into the crack and makes a nice repair. I have also used this trick to fix squeaky stair treads by drilling a small hole through the tread. Pouring in the yellow and gg then plugging the hole with a dowel. The glues expand and cure to fill the gap and stabilize the tread. Squeak gone. Gg is another tool in the toolbox and has its place.

Another wonderfully informative video. Every glue has its use. That said, I use hide glue almost exclusively, being a musical instrument maker. It's more reversible than any other glue, and it holds well enough, given good joints.

More and more, I find these videos invaluable. Great explanation, keeps it simple, great camera angles…just all around good quality videos Keep it up. You are helping me a lot, and I’ll keep coming back to you

I have passed over this video numerous times but decided to watch and am so glad I did. I've started using glue in my builds more and in addition to your explaining Gorilla glue you answered questions ajd filled in my lack of knowledge using yellow ( Titebond ) glue. Thank you for this help.

Very informative! 100% agree about expanding gorilla glue. I’m not sure what gorilla “clear” glue is made from, but it’s amazing. I glued a broken ceramic lid together and it holds when nothing else would.

PUR Hotmelt glue is also widely used for gluing ABS edge band onto boards, this also creates a watertight seam between the edgeband and the panel

In highschool woodshop in the early 90's we were taught using white glue. Not too many years after that I started seeing the promotion and use of yellow wood glue everywhere. White glue always worked well for me but now I understand the purposes for the yellow (without all the sales pitch hype). This clears it all up, thank you!

I seem to watch this video every year and it quickly refreshes the info that faded in my head

The advantages of gorilla glue is that it fills irregular gaps and it can set rock hard and it bonds wood to practically anything, tiles, concrete etc. it can be messy though and it sticks on your hands for ages. It’s definitely got a place for general, multi uses and applications.

I'd also love to see a video about CA glue uses. My only dislike for CA glue is that no matter how careful I am, I always end up getting some on me.

Looking forward to the CA glue video. I love using it. Ever since I saw someone use it as a finish, I’ve been using it for all sorts of applications.

Thank you for this. Your explanation is easy to understand and well delivered, unlike so many on You Tube.

Thanks for the informative video as always! Polyurethane has it's downsides for sure. But if you get used to using it in the right situations it's incomparable. If you have the time and patience to monitor potential foaming situations or are experienced with the amount of foaming of your chosen brand (and/or clean if necessary) it's amazing. Not just on wood. 5 years ago, for example, i took the smashed bowl of a concrete birdbath and glued it together in under 2 minutes. Literally just pressed piece after piece of the bath together and it held. It's held together, outdoors and often underwater, ever since. I've had a myriad epoxy failures in many applications, and hear the same regularly from others. Epoxies or binary polymers aren't all made equal. Sadly, cheap epoxy is usually cheap for a reason. I've never been let down when I've used the cheap non gorilla brand polyurethane, not even once - though I can't say I've used gorilla specifically though. But... Horses for courses. I'm also enough of a luddite to use my own casein milk glues occasionally, and plenty of pva but never the modern yellow, even on regularly submerged chopping boards. Granted I'm also almost never in a hurry to glue, but if that happens I'll use the "right" glue with added "tack weld" drops of CA (well, cheap superglue) where the right glue won't touch it, and sometimes use a pinch of "activator" (baking soda) to move things along. When you can get away with it there's nothing like a quick tack nail to hold while drying too. So far none of my work has fallen to bits... Yet! But I wish I had that array of glues to try out! Still, I have what I have and get the desired results.

Great video. I store my CA cement in a heavy zip-lock with a couple of dessicant bags. It lasts years that way.

Perfect clarity and no ambiguities in you instrucrtions...this is a perfect video!

No yelling, no overediting, no BS. Straight to the point, clear and useful explanations This is how any YT presentation should look like Great job

Very informative video, one glue i learned of back in shop class and I still use it today, it's a plastic resin powder glue made by Dap and its called wieldwood, I introduced this glue to our arsenal at a start up furniture company and would use it for repair work on old pieces and glue up multi layer boards and if aloud to set up over night will produce a stronger than wood joint. I turn alot of wooden Bowls and such and use it on those glue up too.

My favorite use of CA glue is with blue painter’s tape. Tape both sides of the joint, glue on one side and accelerator on the other and you have an instant joint for patterns, jigs, etc. that can be easily disassembled and won’t harm the surface like double sided tape can. There’s no residue to clean up, either.

Your presentation skills are outstanding, faultless speaking and in one take, and many thanks for clarifying an interesting subject.

Thank you for your clear, articulate explanation of glues.... 11 very worthwhile minutes!!!

Polyurethane glue is great for squeaky floorboards. Sika Tech Grip is my choice. As for CA, i use powerflex and loctite 480 a lot in my workshop. Regular super glue is too brittle in some applications. However it is a great finish and finish repair.

Shop was what got me through HS. I wish I had videos like this growing up. I am so glad that Woodworking will not become a lost art with these videos with a lot of shop programs getting cut. Thanks for the content.

Thanks, that's the only good clear answer I've found describing the difference between Titebond II and III.

Wow! This is 10 minutes of very useful concise gluing info!!! Thanks. Glue can save soooo much time!

"Yellow" PVA glue generally has a phenol/formaldehyde (PF) resin added to it to give it more weather resistance. The PF resin has a deep reddish-brown color and imparts the yellow hue to the normally white PVA glue.

I would have a field day in your shop!!! I mean I wouldn't produce anything more than shavings at this point but I'd still enjoy getting to know all the tools you have and the history of them. Keep up the great work!! Much love and respect🤘🏾🤘🏾🤘🏾

Gluers unite! I've yet to stumble upon such a comprehensive glue guide. Nice work!

You touched on reversibility fro some of these glues. It's an important topic. I would love to see a whole vid on *un-gluing.*

Storing your CA glue in a container with a desiccation pouch works great to prevent clogs, too. Also, Gorilla Glue works great on other repairs, such as ceramics, where you can file or sand away the foamy parts for a nice clean joint. And, rubbing alcohol is a very effect release agent for hot melt glues. Just touch the joint with a dab of alcohol, wait a few seconds and the joint will fall apart.

Hello Jim, I am a long time amature (yeah my spelling is horible :) ) woodworker and have recently found your videos on You Tube. I just wanted to say that, not only have I learned alot from you, but I am very glad to see that you take shop safety as serious as I do.You have given me hours of pleasure watching your Cool Tools and project videos, and your project and shop tips are unsurpassed. Great job!! It is obvious that you are one of the most skilled and talented woodworkers of the modern age, and I just wanted to say thank you for your contribution to our craft.

As a plastic scale modeller I often use CA glue. Its major drawback is its brittleness. Thanks, James, for a very informative video!

Excellent video! Thanks, Stumpy for explaining glues in a clear, concise, manner.

The more I watch “StumpyNubs” the more I like and trust his content.

I find gorilla glue to be useless in the wood shop also but VERY useful in many other places around the house. I once used it to glue a chunk of concrete back in place after a crack filled with water and froze overnight. That was 3 years ago and its still holding nicely.

Thank You Excellent information as usual In my experience over the long term (several years) epoxy tends to move if under constant stress. Where I’ve found polyurethane glue useful is with pressure treated wood.

I've used polyurethane glue for outdoor projects (tables, mostly) made from construction lumber (usually 2x12 SYP boards where I cut around the worst knots). Even if I let it sit for a while, the wood still has more moisture than I'd like which is a good fit for PU glue, and I don't have to worry about rough tenons as you point out. I use a carbide scraper to get the foam-out after the glue sets, then a good sanding to make sure the wood will take paint or deck stain.

Using PU glue on damp wood has another drawback, depending on how damp the wood, it may shrink when dry, PU is brittle, the joint will fail quicker. I say quicker because every joint I've glued or been around that was glued with PU fails more quickly, yes, every joint. Another white glue you may want to consider is Roo Superbond. Type 2 rated and sets quickly. I typically do use it on glue ups that need a longer open time. They also make a melamine glue, Roo Clear, it works on nearly everything including it's intended purpose. It remains more flexible than any of the others, not advised for lathe glue ups for that reason. Roo makes a yellow glue as well, it's on my list to try. With both Titebond and Roo, my search for non-CA wood glue is over. No, not sponsored by either, just good products for more options.

A much less used adhesive but often my favorite is rubber cement. It’s not always useful, but as a maker, I often find myself attaching two materials that “shouldn’t” be attached together. The rubber cement adds enough flexibility to adjust to different expansion ratios and densities while still maintaining a strong joint.

Every video I see of yours teaches me something new. Recently subscribed and I plan on going through every video you posted for every pearl of wisdom.

Another well presented video giving a woodworker a choice through knowledge. This video is one of the best tools you should have in your shop!!!

I learned a lot from this video, but the main thing I learned was how wildly ignorant of the world of glue I really was. I have used nothing but Titebond 3 for all of my woodworking and will definitely be changing that. Thanks for the video!

The oldskhool contact adhesive also has its place especially when you want to attach a different material to wood (especially leather) Good ventilation is essential however!

Seriously, how do you not have 5M+ subscribers? This is the most consistently useful channel on KZfaq for a homeowner or DIY'er.

Another Great Video. The take home lesson that I will start using today is storing CA glue in my shop freezer. That will immediately eliminate a regular pain in the neck. THANKS!

Great voice video, really helpful to here genuine unbiased facts. I will say I use gorilla glue on job site jobs not wood working builds in a shop. Gorilla glue works great when using wood plugs on projects were you don’t have smooth fitting pieces, fills the gaps a cracks and when dry (only when dry) scrapes off easily. Again great job, can’t wait for the next one Alex

If anyone doesn't know, CA glue will react with baking soda very quickly to make a very hard substance with decent adhesion. I've actually used this to create a strong filler to repair or build up something. It is tricky because the reaction is so fast the CA glue won't penetrate very far. But you can work with it.

Great video on glues. Boat building and restoration I have used a lot of epoxies and Gorilla poly glue. Polyurethane glue has its uses. When it first came out, the hardwood candy store also had a bunch of green ash shorts on sale; cheap serendipity. I glued up a kitchen cutting board. A great test for waterproof glue and bonding because the ash was wet to begin with and the kitchen cutting board was alternately soaking wet then dried. I deliberately did not oil the board. Lasted for years. Finally one joint split. Too little glue on that joint, I think. I separated the split joint, quick pass over the jointer, more poly glue, then back into service the next day. One boats I used it to join fiddly bits of non-structural trim that would be painted. Worked very well, without the two part mess and expense of epoxy. Recently the best use was to glue back together splits in Redwood T&G 1x8. Very gently prying open the split, with a toothpick, and spread in the poly glue with an old toothbrush. Clamp with 2" clear box tape. The foaming expansion here is a big plus as the glue will push itself into areas of the split the toothbrush could not reach. And fill in some of the inevitable gaps left by splinters that fell out. Redwood T&G, once commonly used in Hawaii, is now either very expensive or unobtainable. Rescuing these boards is quite worthwhile. Poly isn't for every project, but for some, it is an excellent choice.

Thank you for this video. I never really considered the differences of these glues.

Another very useful video. I’ll use one suggestion immediately: storing CA glue in the shop freezer. That will immediately eliminate a regular nuisance. Thanks!

The application I remember where PU might be the right choice is bent lamination of slender boards, if they need soaking to bend better in assembly. I’ve never done it myself, and other glue types may of course work well too. But the dual use of the soak for both bending and setting the PU feels like a good match

Thank you for giving such great imformation on the use of different glues. I am just learning so it's all very helpful to me.

Nice, quick, and to the point discussion of different types of glue

A great glue overview, thank you. What are your thoughts on alternatives; double sided tape, spray impact adhesive, blue painters tape, etc. How to peel or remove residue, clean-up etc.

The clear non-expanding PU glue has some properties that make it very useful for certain applications. It doesn't make the mess of the brown PU glue. PVA glue cures strong but is brittle, but clear PU bonds and remains very flexible and tough. Of course construction adhesive has good properties for some use cases too...

Thank you for this very informative glue guide! I am just starting my journey of Wood Turning and this definitely helped me out !!

I never expected to be so happy to learn about glue, thank you.

Even though I have all these but hide glue and have used them for years, I learned something I didn’t know about each. Thanks once again Professor Nubs.

Good stuff. Back in high school wood shop, we used this powdered glue that we mixed with water. The stuff was tenacious. I think it was made by Weldwood, but that was 40+ years ago, so my memory is a bit sketchy on it. I do remember that when dry, the wood would break before the joint did. Interesting twist on the Gorilla Glue. I saw a guy use Gorilla Glue as a rub-in poly finish. I tried it on a small project and it was legit.

That Titebond II seems to me to be the best choice for cleaning out the grooves of LP and 45 records since it stays more flexible when you remove it and doesn't break up into pieces like white glue.

I use the Titebond 3 for all woodworking and I use construction landscaping glue for masonry. And I just used Gorilla Construction adhesive for my vanity tops adhering to the vanity and its great!! And you are correct about regular Gorilla glue, it foams up and can be messy.

Thanks for try another outstanding, unbiased, and fact-laden video, James!

Poly glue works good in construction where foaming doesn't matter, and damp wood is common.

Thanks for this video. It answers almost all of my glue questions.

I've been also using "Titebond Quick&Thick Multi Purpose Glue". It's a white glue, dries clear and can be painted. Terrific glue for repairing broken things around the house such as ceramics or toys, etc.

Have to say that I share all of your opinions and experience with all of these glue types with the exception of polyurethane. I dismissed it for a long time until I saw a KZfaqr use it on several projects. The first place I saw him use it was on a tight box joint. Personally box joint and dovetail glue ups make me more apprehensive than most others. With the polyurethane you get a glue that has a longer open time, acts as a filler, acts as a lubricant during assembly of tight joints and is really easier to clean up. Yes you have to use mineral spirits but even after it dries it's easier to clean up any squeeze out with a chisel or knife than PVA glue. No it's not a miracle glue to replace all others but it does have a place, at least in my shop. Don't be too quick to dismiss the Gorilla! ;)

Really nice overview, James. I use hot glue all the time. I've even used to attach a small part I need to turn on the lathe. Not recommended of course but If the surface area is large enough, it holds surprisingly well. Also love hot glue to seal up caulk tubes I won't get to for a while. Even a year later, the contents will still be fresh!

Weldbond has never let me down and has solved some big problems I had laminating a curved surface.

You have the most useful videos for woodworkers on KZfaq!

Stumpy, you are a presentation god. How do you manage to deliver video after video with such perfect organization and clarity with few or no video edits? Impressive.

What about combining different glues in the same task? I’ve seen a number of other users apply two different types during the glue up process, such as yellow glue for strength and CA glue for quick adhesion that eliminates the need for clamps.

Back in the Fifty’s my Father bought Brown Tempera from the local hardware untill he convinced Franklin in Columbus to die the glue brown as we mainly made furniture from Walnut. Tightbond three makes an extend version that is perfect for vacuum veneering on multiple panels. Great glue overview.

Great presentation, and I appreciate the plug for a small business. Your site strikes me as a GREAT use of You Tube. I learned a lot about glues too! And of course, love the Red Wing cup.....

A tiny sprinkle of table salt completely prevents parts moving when clamping. This was a tip which changed my gluing life forever! But make sure you put some rice in your salt shaker, or the salt will clump up due to its hygroscopic nature.

Love the title. I used Gorilla Glue once and my joints fell apart. I was building a box for my camp trailer. I ended up using a marine grade epoxy, TotalBoat Thixo 2:1 Epoxy. Great stuff, gave us about 30 minutes of work time to square up the box.

Another nice overview. I never really knew the differences between the Titebond glues except working times. Thanks!

Firstly from this Kiwi, hobby wood worker. Thanks so much for all the wonderful and informative vieos you have posted over the years. I have learnt heaps from them. Re Glues. I use polyurathane glue for outdoor constructions. Landscaping, decks etc, I find it does a good job . I use it with a glue gun for these jobs. I'm a hobby luthier. traditionally heated animal and hyde glue was used for instruments for several reasons. Quality Instruments are almost certainly going to be disassembled over their life time. Hence what you said about chairs. Secondly in its hot state. It sets very quickly. This enables the luthier to place and secure a small part very quickly. just like with super glue. Thirdly in days gone by. there weren't necessarily a lot of other options. I began using the origional white PVA glue. In some places. Stringed musical instruments are under considerable tension. I discovered that under these conditions. White glue tended to creep. I have found the yellow glue doesn't. Its possible to release the yellow glues I use with moisture and heat which equals steam. You can also use white vinegar to release a variety of plastic based glues, including yellow glue. I occasionally use Epoxy resin. Especially for instance, for for setting carbon fibre flats into guitar necks for reinforcement. Epoxy is really the only glue that will adhere to thermo setting composites. I use super glue for fitting binding to the body of an acoustic instrument. it largely elminates the need for complex clamping systems. lastly, I also often use super glue to fill dents and wood gap imperfection that are to be laquered . I hope ive added to the debate. Once agin thankyou so much for what you do.

Polyurethane glue: I use it to add rubber strips to the bottom of skateboard launch ramps. Epoxy in those volumes is more expensive here (Australia) than PU, and PU doesn't need to be mixed so I can apply it straight to the work surface.

Nice, calm way of explaining things. Thanks.

Nice informative video, and good idea on keeping the CA glue in the freezer. My wife may not share that opinion, but we'll find out. I do have a few more types to add to the list, though. You mentioned construction adhesive, such as PL. It holds extremely well for rough projects, does well with damp materials, and is quick to apply. Good for outdoor, "rustic" type builds, etc. Subfloor adhesive is similar, dries very quickly, and remains somewhat elastic, good for things that will see a lot of movement or flexing. I used it for the slats on a bed frame, over 2x4s. There are other forms of PL products for special applications, so if you are doing something odd, check to see if they have anything useful. Silicone also makes an excellent adhesive, for things like glass, tile, stone, etc. Things that are hard to glue with other adhesives. It also has some flex. We use it all the time for installing washroom accessories, you will pull a tile off the wall before the bond lets go. These are more for construction type projects, but have their uses in woodworking as well. Lastly, spray glue, such as super77 from 3m. It is essentially spray on contact adhesive. I wouldn't trust it for woodworking joints, but it excels at gluing on sheets of laminate or veneer on countertops, cabinets, etc. Simply spray both sides, wait a minute, and place it, and roll it. You don't really get much of a chance to move it afterwards, but most guys oversize the sheet and trim it off afterwards.

I've had bad experiences with polyurethane glue, even to the extent of outdoor pieces simply falling apart after a few months. I've known guitar neck joints glued with polyurethane that could be easily pried apart-hand pressure only. I can't think of any application I would use it for. (The "gap filling" foam has no structural strength to speak of.) I don't use cyanoacryliates on any joint that receives stress, as it has very poor shear strength. I've tried a few brands of construction adhesive, but they've all failed after a few weeks or months. Maybe I'm doing something wrong? I don't buy pre-mixed hide glue. The shelf life of the crystals is practically forever, and mixing it up isn't that much of a hassle. YMMV

Tidebond is a bit on the expensive side here in Germany, but I use it in small sizes for special cases like TB3 for cutting boards, where it really makes a difference. White glue is dominat here instead and the price is about 10€ for 750ml. I noticed that in many cases you can get away easily with releasing the clamping preasure even after 30 to 45 minutes without worries. I think Matthias Wandel once did a test where he showed that even without clamps (just gravity) the glued joint is almost as good as clamped. Best regards, Stefan

Plain old Elmer’s Glue-all is probably the most underrated glue out there. It’s cheap, strong, dries clear, cleans easily. I’ve built dozens of stringed instruments with it.

Thank you for giving me the information that has taken you years of experience to collate. What is the Gorilla Clear glue. I used it on box that was joined by double dovetales. It didn't foam up like the other Gorilla glues. It also didn't swell the timber and acted more like a lubricant when wet for inserting the tales. This made it easier (or safer) when inserting the tales into the 1/8th thick second tale. The job was a lesson in finer dovetale making and I ended up scrapping the box, but I'm not sure about just how durable that glue joint would be over time.