Rookie mistake. When putting any bit into the tool, press it to the bottom of the collet, and then back it out about 1/8" before you tighten the lock nut. To remove it, just loosen the lock nut and bump the bit against your workbench or vise to seat it all the way into the collet. That will break the grip every time. That's the beauty of tapered tooling......it holds like a gorilla. You just gotta know the trick.

While there is no denying the 4000 has a more robust shaft lock, this is really not an issue for most DIY types who only use the tool periodically as needed. You seem like a heavy user and you definitely should be using the stronger tool. I've had a similar version of the Dremel 3000 for years and don't have a problem with it. But, I only use it periodically in my shop. The smaller, easier to handle size of the 3000 is more important to me. Good video for those who need to know this.

Went to the effort of disassembling the 4000 and showing us how the locking mechanism engages better and completely overlooked another important update - the spindle lock cannot be pressed down when the tool is on - you can clearly see that the on/off switch when slide into the on position locks the spindle lock button from being depressed - that is also a very good upgrade, especially with those new beefy locking pins that would cause some damage if you pressed the spindle lock during opertion.

I once cut out the floor of a GMC truck from inside the cab with a Dremel 4000 and Ez Lock Metal cut discs, to get to the fuel pump (didn't want to drop the tank, too much hassle). They are very capable little grinders, if you are patient. The Dremel's precision was what I needed for that particular job.

I just had this problem with my 3 month old Dremel 3000, returned it with the bit stuck in there. Didn't want to take it apart and void the warranty. Was going to exchange it, but they were out of the 3000. So I got the 4000. After watching this video, I"m glad I did! Thanks for pointing the better locking mechanism.

The bearing is much closer to the collet on the 4000. This will reduce wobble even more. Thank you for the review!

Best explanation EVER!! I really don’t care so much about which is more powerful than the other. You want loads of power, get a Dewalt or something else. These things are for intricate work and it’s more about many uses for fine detail. That wear and tear information is so critical. THANK YOU!!

Great Video! I have been looking at the 3000 and my wife bought me the 4000 for Christmas. Glad to know I got the better unit. :)

my dremel 3000 also broke, that pin just wore off like nothing after a little heavy use. So worth it getting the 4000 instead just for that.

this helped me alot. the outtakes at the end were hilarious too buddy!

That was just what I needed to know, much appreciated 👍

That got me answers on 1 of my biggest problem , had 2 Dremel 3000 both got worn out pin and the groove. I used parts from first that broke on the second one but that one broke today. The other problem with 3000 is the speed Button gives up and runs to fast not being able to lower speed. I think ill get the 4000 instead. A tip if groove and pin wears out you can drill a hole right thru were the groove is and remove button and stick a steel pin thru each time you wanna change tool

I am in the market for a Dremmel-this helps alot! Thank you!

well done, useful vid. thanks for posting the benefit of your experience and long usage. that can't be shortcutted. also thanks for FFWing thru the disassembly :) that way we can see it if we need to but..

Something ive learned about speed controls (on just about everything, not just a Dremel) that operate on a knob versus a switch is once that knob wears out with time with the vibration of the tool it will start moving on you whereas a switch wont,just my experience.

Love the review! So informative!

You sold me on that locking mechanism. Thanks mate

So crazy I'm in the market for a new Dremel so was watching videos the exact problem you're describing happened to my Dremel and I don't use it very hard.

Thanks for the info. The bloopers were just top👌

good video. no need for me to worry about because I use a Dremel flex shaft. thanks for the info.

Awesome video and helped me decide which model to buy.

Thank you for showing the difference between the two models.

super helpful video thank you! ill be getting a 4000 series!

Aaand I'm now taking my recently purchased 3000 back after watching this. Thank you! Great video 👍

When you install an accessory into the collet snug it then let it run for 20-30 seconds and it will tighten on there own. Make sure you turn the chuck slowly then make sure the button is pressed securely to remove. According to Dremel techs, most returns on the 3000 is due to operator error by being to rough on them. For example, some people press the lock down button to stop the machine from running temporarily, then release when back to operation. You can't do those things. Without damaging the shaft. I have a 3000. Never had the problems you state.

Amazing video, my dremel 3000 shaft lock keeps breaking ans me having to fix it. i was looking to see if 4000 model improved on that. This video was perfectly answers my question i had. Just ordered 4000 on special for cdn$100 at lowes. Thats a little more then 3000 and also most cost effective then if i keep fixing the shaft lock.

I have the 4200 with the EZ Change system. It's the first Dremel I've owned and changing bits is quick and easy. I can't imagine having to use a wrench every time I need to switch out the bit.

I've been having that locking pin problem. I replaced it with a fresh one and was able to change the attachment twice before it broke again. Fortunately it's now stuck with the most useful tool, so I decided to use it exclusively as a cutting wheel. Whether I buy a new Dremel to replace it for other functions was hinging on whether the next model solved that problem. Looks like I'll be buying a 4000.

very helpful thank you for the information.

Thank you! I have the 3000 and the lock button wasted as you said, and I'm looking to buy a new one, but upset me that I didn't use much the 3000, but definitely I will no buy anything smaller of a 4000! thank you again!

Has anyone noticed that the speed/power switch is slightly erratic at lower speeds (between 2 & 4) on 3000? Mine occasionally won't even start spinning. I have to go back to "power off" and again to 2. Also, once the selector is at 2, the speed seems to change on its own over time. Not by a lot, nevertheless, it's inconsistent, and it keeps increasing on its own. It's my second Dremel. I sent the first one back for exactly that reason. Is that anyone else's experience? Thanks

just always make sure you are pressing the button all the way inside and holding it there while un/tightening the chuck. It is similar on more kinds of tools, this kind of locking and if you are not fully pressing the button, and it snaps few times, you end up with free shaft. Better if you could put two keys, on both - shaft and the tightening nut

Thank you so much for the teardown!

Great video 📹

Thanks this was helpful!

Just picked up the 4000 kit for $89.00 on Amazon..........sounds like a good machine at a great price.

thanks for sharing :)

This is the information im always looking for as a tech...... I want to see the inside because when I buy something and if it breaks Im l want to know I can repair it or rebuild it. Thanks... great video.

You forgot to mention that the 3000 wont take a 1/4 " bit only the 1/8 bit, where as the 4000 will take both 1/8 & the 1/4"

I liked it better, when Dremel tools 🧰 used to have a rotary ON/OFF/speed control switch (knob). This allowed ANY “in between” speed (infinite speed control), not non-adjustable, “fixed speed”, as the switches on them are today. Today switches, each speed you select, is the next “graduated” motor speed. Only vintage Dremel tools 🧰 of yesteryear had infinite speed control. P.S. Do NOT lose that little collet pin 📌 it probably also has a little spring. Once these hit the floor, they’re usually lost 😞 for good 👍. If lost 😞, use a magnet 🧲. This will usually retrieve lost 😞 parts. Also, DO NOT attempt to run 🏃‍♀️ the Dremel tool with the collet pin 📌 depressed. This will possibility break the housing of the Dremel tool, ruin the collet pin 📌 and the spring might get lost 😞), and possibly cause motor damage. Sorry 😞 about my long comment (and the emoji’s). It’s the only practical way to express my opinion on Dremel tools 🧰. Your friend, Jeff.

Very helpful ..thanks!

Thanks for that info 👍 Wished I had bought the 4000. Now I know about the collar lock I’ll be a little more careful.

Check this out. I have a 4000 with the exact same locking pin as the 3000. Your video ....On my way to Home Depot to buy a 4000 with (hoping) the better locking pin!

Hi Makify, long time you don't make any video. Come back soon ☺

This came up in my feed. I run a Foredom TX as a daily driver and also have a SR, along with other flexshafts. Handheld rotary tools just don't have any torque. If a given application relies on attachments that spin below 15K RPM, I'd suggest that even the most modest flexshaft is a significant upgrade. A HFT flexshaft with a Foredom pedal is about $100. Can't see spending that on a torqueless wonder. Good luck.

Do make more videos please! Thank you!

I've been researching the 3000 and have read in 2 places now that if you power it down, it won't turn back on for an hour. Is that true? Does the 4000 (or any other model) also do that? Asking because this would be a big problem for the way I work.

I have one 3000 one 4000 and a cordless dremel and I love each one

Also, the Dremel 3000 RPM range is 5,000 to 35,000. Exactly the same as the 4000. And in most cases, velocity is more important than amps. In fact, the 3000 will accomplish the same tasks as the 4000 without all this "electronic feedback" which is basically BS like the useless "electronic feedback" on the recent electric shavers. Its a gimmick. If the Dremel motor struggles and needs more speed you can hear and feel it in real time. You don't need a computer and flashing leds. Its just a selling gimmick and markup tactic to pull prices higher. Moreover, the 3000 is lighter and slimmer since it doesn't have this gimmick to carry so the 3000 is easier to work with, more comfortable and more precise than the 4000. I cut four thick metal legs on a table three days ago with my 3000. Flawless cuts, perfectly straight. The Dremel 3000 is an awesome tool.

I broke that pin on a cordless years ago. Definitely going to a 4000.

GREAT VIDEO!!!!! I WILL GET THE DREMEL 4K!!!!

Yeah, I was thinking about buying the 4000 series but the price was too.much for the use that I do with it.. I'm happy with the 3000 altough I would change the button in the length instead of the side action it does now.

Do they come with the extension

Thanks!

I have 4000 but was able to get the 3000 from walmart for 18 bucks. Figure for the assortment alone it's worth it.

My 3000 broke after 2 months. I'm returning it under warranty and getting the 4000.

The push lock is the most important thing .

I bought a 3000 and the speed dial after one week only works on the lowest setting i wasn't pushing it hard i had noticed the speed was stopping from day one and i would have to re set the speed

Just press firmly on the lock button. The locking effect is Down not Sideways when you press the button correctly.

The 4000 has a changeable, non soldered thermal fuse too.

I've been working on my dremel 3000 for three years, its really great and definitely worth the money

Somebody that to take them apart.

Thanks. This is what happened to my 3000.

That is quite the difference between the two units, I definitely will give a pass on the 3000 thanks to your video, good job on your part

You can just slice the sticker down the seam line of the chassis.

I like your bleeper blooper ending. Also the video was help full since the 4000 has such a big shaft loc compaired to the wimpy ass pin on the 3000. I to will never buy anything smaller than a 4000.

Agreed. That is convincing

I'm sitting here with my dinky 200. There's nothing else in the world like a Dremel tool, and I'd love it if everyone had one.

Thanks god bless

Please, open the Dremel 7760 cordless LITE

I've had my original Dremel about 30 years. Never had the locking issue. But the motor is starting to give out.

7:27 skookum ... AvE would approve! :D

Основных отличий два - более высокая мощность у 4000, и отдельный регулятор оборотов. Константная электроника у 4000 тоже неплоха, но не столь важна, как остальное.

my old model 398 digital professional still running strong, the new dremel models aren't much better and personally think the grey plastic bodies look cheap

Interesting video. Thanks for sharing. But how did you know there is such a difference between the Dremel 3000 and 4000? Is it in the specs? What is the price difference? For Dremel it shouldn't be a problem to use the same system in the 3000 as well. Higher costs maybe 1 US dollar. But why should they do it, if they can offer in the new 4000 more bells and whistles nearly nobody needs, for much more money? It's a big plus that the tools are possible to open, but if you can't buy spare parts, it's quite useless. Thumbs down for Dremel. Thumbs up for you.

Before ! You know it ! The Six thousand ! Will be OUT ! Just like last and this year's ! Car Sales !

4L59 time stamp 's sounds like a Mandela effect.

Unfortunately Bosch has a very poor product support in India. I can't even get collects here!

Well, for cnc routing, precision hole making thru 19mm or 25mm MDF Dremel 4000 wirks much, much better than 3000.

Great devil video thanks.

Actually I find the separate on/off switch and speed control a big upgrade on the 4000 over the combined switch on the smaller units. Also if you are using a flex shaft then the added power of the larger motor is more noticeable due to the extra drag the flex shaft itself places on the tool. Dremel makes a good product and in all honesty in my opinion most all hand held rotary tools are best suited for light to medium work loads and the failures many experience is trying to take too light duty a tool and try to manually force their way through heavier duty task or cutting operations the tools were never designed for and then blame the failure on poor tool quality rather than the reality of a poor operator holding said tool and using it incorrectly.

this is great - could have been done in 120 seconds.

Do they have reverse yet?!?! Stupid things spin the wrong way for right hand use.

Haha, you dont have to take the stickers off and ruin them, just use a razorblade and cut them in two 😊

fugg dremel, selling the tool with 15/25 pieces much higher prices than other brands. literally you can have over 200-300 pieces with tool much cheaper than dremel.

do you know if i can convert lets say the 4000 from 110v and make it so i can use it with a 220v?

So is the 4000 worth the 200% price tag? I don't think so..

wow you must abuse the crap out of your dremel .I have used mine to grind welds .jammed it in a pin hole so tight I had to use a hammer and nail to get it out . My dremel is almost 30 years old . The lock button froze due to rust . "left the window open on the shed ,dew then rain and not using it for 6 months . Never have I had that button not hold .You have to be doing something wrong .

Good

A non issue with a collet tool. The 3000 lock is plenty for the application, the 4000 is over engineered for ham fisted people who tighten things too much.

locking pin its small because this is not 2kw drill mate for what you need tight this more ? this is 98% the same product only motor its bigger :/ omg

Just sent an order for a 4000 on good advice. also. cos I bought my first Dremel in 1980-84 And it still is running well