Let’s be honest with ourselves here: this is a 1.5l engine designed for economy. Anyone attempting to make anything more than stock horsepower out of this tiny engine is clearly suffering from a recent stroke.

problem #1, trying to make 300 hp on a motor that isn't designed to make more than stock. that's it.

The engineer made a killer job on that one. They were asked to do the best mpg 200hp torquey engine that will use the minimum material possible. They really blew it out of the park.. they never had the tuning scene in mind.

Wow, I wouldn't have thought the L15 engine would be weaker than the D series. Those connecting rod bolts are unbelievable.

It's nice to know that the rod bolts in Honda's new 200HP performance engines are thinner than the rod bolts in my 3HP Harbor Freight water pump. Nice job Honda! 👍

I had a 99 si, and the b16 is a great engine. I had a 22 si, and I could tell right after I broke the motor in that the car wasn't designed to be driven like my 99 si. Not to mention quite a few times, when I was in traffic, I could see wisps of steam hitting the wind shield. The hood was always so damn hot. The l15 always seemed to be struggling, I absolutely refused to throw a hondata on there. Needless to say, I traded it in for a fl5 type r and couldn't be happier. After a 6 hr. drive home from purchasing my type r, the hood was cold. I understand this isn't an option for everyone, my suggestion is to get a low mileage older si that has a k-series engine if you plan on tuning it. This will cost less than a brand new si. The l15 engine is a gas saver, it's not meant for tuning or even hard daily driving. Thanks for the video my guy, you solidified in my mind why I got rid of the car.

Needed to hear this. Thank you. Started adding some light mods and a tune for about 1000 miles and the engine is messed up in the bottom end. It JUST broke 40K not to long ago and it's really just sad. Wish i saw this a month ago lol.

Damn man coming from a background years ago machining LS one engines , mostly V-8 stuff - the points u are making this video are spot on I’ve honestly been looking at the GR Corolla the WRX 2022 and up and a Honda civic SI just for something with a six speed manual and I tell you the production problems that Subaru is having the problems in general with direct injection motors on all turbos nowadays it’s really hard to get excited about buying a performance car these days that’s not a V-8

Good info. Like you said, the entire engine is built around fuel economy. Less recropicating mass and less overall weight. In your opinion, what is a safe max torque from the K20C4 for longevity? The difference in rods is night and day, but trying to put it into perspective.

10/10 explication. after watching this theres no way id buy any honda with an L15 in it

My 2016 civic 1.5 turbo touring has 200K miles and I haven’t had any problems . I started using 5w-30 amsoil signature at 36K as soon as my warranty was up instead of using the 0w-20 from Honda which is absolutely silly in my opinion . I didn’t even lose 1 mpg in fuel economy when I switched the oil . I had the oil tested at blackstone labs at 170K and it didn’t have a fuel dilution problem . It is just a stock daily driver though and I don’t drive it hard .

Thanks for the video, great info. This is exactly what i was looking for 👍

Thanks for posting this. Looking at getting a new civic, probably gonna go with the sport trim that has a k20c2 now instead of the l15.

Damn...as a 10th gen Si owner this hurts to watch lmao. Prior to watching this I had planned on ordering Ktuner v1.2, MAPperformance downpipe, and a PRL intercooler next week. Now, I'm thinking less mods and selling the whole disaster to carmax and buying a 9th gen like I should have initially. So thankful I found this video when I did, thank you for posting this gem.

I bought a salvage 2017 Si, I had to replace the engine, I put a junkyard L15 in it and it's been fantastic. I won't tune it because replacing the clutch with something satisfactory is so difficult. Several of my friends and I have agreed Honda engineered the 10gen to very small margins..a tune is really pushing the envelope.

Not being ideal for racing does not make it "the worst engine Honda ever built". Proper maintenance and conservative driving habits its as reliable as anything Honda has ever built. They did have some issues with fuel dilution, and I'll agree if you want to race something this is not the engine you want to use, but as a stock, daily driver it's a good motor. I have a 2019 CRV with 100,000 miles on it and have had 0 problems out of it, nothing but standard maintenance. I did see some rising oil levels due to fuel dilution, but switching to super fuel has stopped that. Runs great and gets great gas mileage. The CVT gives me some concerns, but I've saw plenty of these transmissions with 200,000+ miles. You just have to take care of it. Racing is not taking care of it. Not a knock on your video, just found it a bit misleading.

Mine has about 148K miles never had the long block open but I've finally starting to have a head gasket leak. Tuned FBO from 68k miles to 128k miles. Then I went big turbo up until now. Have a small coolant leak in the cylinder

I really enjoy it as a daily driver. Ill just stick to efficiency mods. Intercooler, intercooler pipes, maybe a few others. But its fantastic stock. Very informative video. Sounds like they took 4 predator 212 motors and strapped em together with a turbo.

Stock 19si thank you for reassuring me to keep this daily stock. Keep my focus on my ek H series although would love a break down on the h series🙌

Thanks for the heads up!!! I have an 11 gen si. I’ve been doing what I can to upgrade. First time experience for me. I’ve got the PRL, 27won bolt ons from charge pipes, intercooler, high volume outlet, down pipe, front pipe, short ram intake, Hondata race flash pro, rods, pistons, exhaust, and was about to get the turbo charger. I guess my question is what’s too much to do? What’s needed for me to do at this point?

Question, what about the current K series, K20C1/C3/C4?

Damn I have an 11th gen Si and yeah it was very hard for me to decide which car to get because of the specs. My first car was a 2007 Toyota Corolla S and I always wanted to drive manual (Mind you I'm 21). Being that I also wanted to build my credit more besides just using credit cards, I figured getting a new car would be best for me to do that so that's why I then even looked into new cars. I had my eyes on the 10th & 11th gen Si and the 2022 GR86/BRZ. I saw and heard how I believe it was Hondata made a video comparing the regular 11th gen civic and 11th gen Si and after watching your video. It totally makes sense how the Si is legit the same engine but before they put it in, they just change the tune so it ends up being the same either ways. I do/don't regret getting my Si let's say over the regular 11th gen civic or the other cars just because I bought it knowing I'm going to keep it stock, good on gas, turbo'd, and again it's manual. So as a daily standpoint I can't complain which you were right about from the beginning if that is what you plan on doing with the car anyways. TBH, it's not like I ever race anyone either (like as if anyone even tries to race me lol which they don't and don't blame them since I'm slow). I just liked the fact that I can have fun on backroads and stuff like that so. If it was that I wanted to build a street car, I've always had my eyes on the 2008 Civic Si's or the 2006 RSX Type-S's just bc of the K20's but for the sake of wanting to build credit, I figured sure I'll just get a newer car. Besides Honda's hold their value so I'm sure I'll get a decent return for when I sell it down the road so that if anything, I can always buy one of those cars I mentioned with cash and build it. But I appreciate the information, very informative, and would highly recommend anyone reading this that if you're going to be buying/getting a new car for yourself (old/new), buy it because you like it and that it makes sense for you. Just make sure you set the right intentions for yourself about the car like what's it for (Race? Street? Dailly? All-around?), budget, and etc,.

You mentioned the head gasket issue on this engine. I noticed the open deck design on the block has slots/slits between the cylinders 01:05. That was a similar design choice that Ford used on their Ecoboost engines before they had the coolant intrusion issues and then redesigned some of the Ecoboost blocks with solid sealing surface instead.

Thank you for sharing your experiences with us. I think this is one of those engines where Honda already maxed out with each spec to the Tee.

My 2018 Honda Accord 1.5 Turbo is now 155,000 miles and I don't have any serious problems. I am a daily commuter of 80 miles for 5 years and still counting. Maybe it all depends on how the drivers use and abuse of the car.

Honestly if you want 800hp clearly this isn't the engine to go with. But, it's far from the worst Honda engine and plenty of owners can vouch for that.

Alex, appreciate your insights. Knew something was not right with L15 turbo. Now all make sense.

Great video. Really didn’t even know how dinky the components are. Thoughts on the k20c1?

I'm running mine with a 20 psi tune and an intake. Stock DP, stock everything else. I'm sad that the reliability is tossed out the window, but I hope to get 300,000 KMs and make it til 2030. Gas mileage is really good on it though, 5-6L/100KM on the highway. What's your thoughts on making these more reliable besides detuning? Would it be better to just never rev em out?

Yeah, remember you from Fred’s videos for his teal EG coupe. You DEFINITELY know your shit! My wife has an accord with THIS engine and STAYING bone stock FOR SURE. More a less watched for long term longevity thoughts and factory build quality or in this case lack of. Honda definitely not what they used to be. Thanks for video .

I was wondering about how it could get such good economy. This answers it perfectly thanks!

Thanks a lot for the video. I’ve thought about doing a Hondata or Ktuner on my car for a little extra kick. Not anymore. Great information.

Great video. Good for who wants to buy this engine and tune it up, so they don't do it. Knowing Honda past i don't believe anyone will have issues with stock configuration. Agree that in si versions is a weak engine

Very informative. In your opinion, how does this L15B7 compare to the L15CA engine in the 22 Civic Si?

Good opinionated review. So a sweet spot in between 200-300hp/tq may make more of a reliable daily. Will keep that in mind as that is what mine is to me (a fun dd ).

There seems to be a lot of tuning on the LC15A DE4/FE1 and even stock it dyno'd to the wheels the marketed hp/tq, which I guess would make crank like 220/230? That seems pretty decent and fun to me stock at least. Do you think the people tuning successfully are outliers?

Would love to see some sort of teardown and overview of the K20 C1 or C4. I was hoping to do a modern K series swap on one of my cars, but after seeing this, I'm a little skeptical of modern honda engines 😬

How do you feel about the 10th gen type r engine?

I have a question Alex can I use 5-30 will it be fine some ppl from the forum told me 5-30 would be better so I been using it for the last 500 miles since my last oil change

With all this said, what are you’re thoughts on the FK8 CTR motor

Unfortunately with emission standard becoming more strict. Companies are designing engines more for fuel economy and emission while sacrificing other aspects.

Hey Alex, I’m looking to get a 23 or 24 si and I’m not gonna be doing any mods, just gonna keep it bone stock. Do u think I’ll run into many problems that will make it not worth it and should go another route for a car? Looking for something fun to drive but still economical and reliable.

I am very glad that I kept my 11th gen Si stock drivetrain. Ran almost 30 track days and 30k street miles with my stock L15 w/o problem. Key was ester based engine oil. Several folks with stock cars and engine oil blew on tracks.

With a bore that small, I'd also be concerned about the cylinder and chamber sides shrouding the valves, impairing flow. Makes me think just doing a K20C swap is a better move. The more you show and explain, the more I become convinced that you either leave it stock or K20C swap. Even an Accord version you'll start with a lot more power than the 1.5T

I wonder if the base NA K20C2 motor is a better platform to build on or is equally as weak as the L15B7. Would be interesting to see when you get your hands on the new L15C motors. See if they improved anything at all.

Would it be worth going from the recommended 0w20 to something else? I always use 0w20 with a can of the Lucas additive for modern engines with VVT etc.

At 3:13 your buddy that had no oil pressure. Did his car started making rattling at the valves and when the oil pump failed did the car knock?

Mines been alive 146k and fbo the longest time tuning is everything but don't expect a monster power house or something that'll run great track times. These engines are more for roll racing and tracks. I definitely wouldn't waste money trying to go over 330whp. All those parts are just made cheap and mass produced

I think some people are getting butthurt because you say it’s a bad engine. What I hear is “a bad engine to build.” If you leave it stock, the L15 is a pretty good engine. Get an engine block heater if you live in frozen climates to minimize oil dilution issues and you’re all good.

I wanted to import a Civic 1.5T for myself to Europe. Your opinion is very important to me. Do you think that if the car is driven stock, it can last and be a reliable, or should I go for the 2NA engine (with very light tuning, because I have read that it is quite sluggish)?

Is this engine the same one that's in the CRV with the coolant leaking into the crankcase problem.

So you suggest getting the 2.0 over the 1.5 on the civics I’m indecisive at the moment.

Your assessment and OPINION as well as your experiences of these engines and there potential failure points when TUNED is pretty on point and great advice. As a 22 year Honda tech I have seen all the failures I think, but the most common on these 1.5's are head gaskets and that's a stock config. These things were over engineered for the least amount of friction and weight as possible to get good fuel economy, that's why when its -30 out they never warm up as there's no friction in these things. I beat the hell out of my B16a and had zero issues, I also have an 18 Si and drive it hard as well and no issues but i suspect i might seeing the current trend, and no I have no intentions of modding it. The only thing i disagree after watching this is you comparison between the L15, K series and B series... they are three totally different engines in all aspects, so comparing the con rod bolts and head bolts is the same as me comparing con rod bolts from my 01 Insight to my friend 94 Mustang, makes no sense. I never noticed the oil galleys on the cranks as I have not had to pull one yet but that's interesting. Every Honda engine has its faults that could be considered the worst, but I am getting rich on timing chains in K series that's for sure and I think that's the worst engine IMOP but the best for mods by far like you describe. . Best engine for reliability and lack of any issues of any kind for me would be the 1.8 SOHC(06-15 Civics's ) and the B16 series :) Thanks for the breakdown

have you looked over the 2022 honda 2.0t engines? curious if you have a video breakdown of it.

Left stock, would you agree its a good engine for daily driving? What about with mild modifications (less than 270 tq)

You referenced GTI engines. The AE888.3 and .4 can reliably hold 450-550whp. You’ll have clutchpack issues well before piston/rod issues. I put 70k miles on mine (Audi a3 Quattro) at ~500whp with no issues. Would do mid 10s in the rain, and is still on the road with this setup at 150m miles.

I don't disagree with anything in this video. The comparisons are spot on. Honda obviously wanted to reduce mass and skimped where they could for fuel economy. But... A company I have an interest in does document oriented courier work. There are 6 Honda CR-V's that are 2017 and 2018 models. They will haul 10 to 20 document boxes to and from various places all over the state for legal and financial firms. Each have a custom Hondata tune oriented around fuel economy. They run 93 octane and get synthetic oil changes directly from the dealer. The CVT gets Amsoil every 30k to 40k. No major issues and they range from 150k to 250k miles. Granted, they are almost exclusively highway miles, but for average use, I think the design is fine. But I 100% agree that tuning these engines is a fools errand.

I'm wondering if the l15b7 block is interchangeable with the first gen honda fit? Is that something you would know? Obviously I'd change the rods n rod bolts. Arp. But 205 hp in that would be fun.

Hi Alex, my engine is currently being replaced, what happened was it started squealing intensely while I was driving a little hard, not even above 4k RPM when it happened, was running at 24 psi that time. I suspected that the turbo failed and it grenaded my engine, however when the tech showed me the old engine, I looked straight to the turbo and noticed that it seems fine, it looked normal, and the compressor wheel had some play but it wasn’t too much, the turbine wheel was still tight, but somehow the engine failed and lost compression, what do you think failed? The engine? Or the turbo? What do you think started making the squeal noise? Thanks in advance. I have L15B7.

You right Alex. Wow really good reasons. Darn those rod bolts and head bolts omg 😲 are so puny heck nah. Good thing I don't even like 10th or 11th gens. I'll buy up to the 8th gen civic that's it. To the k20z3 that's it or k24a2 tsx.

Great video. What are your thoughts on the 2.0L NA engine, the K20C2 reliability? Any downsides to that engine? How about the K20C1/K20C8 used in the FL5 CTR or the DE5 Integra Type S in terms of longevity?

You mentioned the engine not being able to handle 500-800hp high horsepower applications; can it handle its own stock power? Is the car reliable if kept stock, or with strictly reliability mods? I like the Si because people are reporting 48+mpg highway stock?

does it have oil pressure sensor? or you talking about factory 0 & 1 type ?

Could it be that it’s as simple as this motor is intended to be lower reving as a design principle. Basically, if you’re looking to do 2.5x the power output that stock produces, then you’re just asking for reliability issues. It’s not a bad motor, it’s a stupid modification plan.

I would like to testify to my many problems encountered with my Civic 2020 Sport Plus with the 1.5T L15BA engine in France. I bought this car new in February 2020 with 0km. Currently I have 20000km (12500 miles). According to Honda France, my Civic was not affected by the fuel pump problem but unfortunately no brand recall. And indeed I had power loss and idle problems. The pump had to be changed at 16,000 km (10,000 miles). I'm not talking about paint problems on a rally red on the rear bumper. But even more serious when I realized a little late that my Civic was drinking coolant. The maintenance garage didn't know where it was going. So we were regularly filling up the expansion tank, until one summer day this year when it was particularly very very hot, the Civic found itself in extreme engine overheating. The Civic had starting problems and seemed to run on 2 or 3 cylinders. The garage still did not ask questions, despite my concerns. So he refueled and 500km (300 miles) later, the jar was empty again. The garage therefore decides to open the engine in 2 and was able to see that my cylinder head had a big molding problem from the factory. So since buying my Civic, my 1.5T engine was drinking coolant through cylinder 2 and smoking white out the exhaust. The cylinder head had to be changed at 19500km (12200 miles). Since the idle is not terrible and I like tremors in the engine. Unfortunately, I no longer trust this car and Honda. I have problems reselling it because of this defect and Honda France doesn't care !

i have 1.5 L15B No turbo(120 HP) is it good ? atmosferic

Then what’s your opinion on these built engine blocks from MAP and TSP?

I’ve done my fair share of L15 head gaskets while working at Honda, and they weren’t even tuned. Ranging between 44k- 160k miles

I agree the rotating assembly is pretty tiny. That being said my stock l15a has 318k miles as of this post. No issues other than an alternator failure and bad coil pack.

Are these failures from off the shelf Hondata and Ktuner maps? Or PowerMetric stage 1, MAPerformance stage 1? What boost levels and tune are u personally running? Custom tune with E85?

I got a 2020 Si TSP stage 1+, PRL Cobra CAI (Street MAF), MAP Catted downpipe, PRL intercooler and charge pipes. Upgraded the clutch to ACT street clutch after blowing out the stock one. I'm driving daily on map 2 (21psi) and more recently map 3 (26psi). I try to ease into it if I go WOT but I definitely get up to 24, 25psi pretty often. Car is just under 40k miles. Would you say I'm running on "borrowed time?" I don't know my exact hp or torque numbers but the tune is 248 whp and 290tq with stock equipment so I assume Im more like 260hp and 300tq with the bolt ons I have installed, but that's a guess. Just looking for your opinion I can tell you know your shit. Would appreciate a reply, I'm loving the car honestly (its my first manual) but what I've heard people talk about these cars and those fucking rods scares me.

Bro speaking facts I blew up At 320 within a year of having the tune, rods on cylinder 1, 3 and 4 gave out mid pull completely coming out of the block, these engines are for sure not meant to hold power

Wow, I really dodged a bullet! So glad I sold mine, full bolt ons and tuned by d.rob… ran great, but I just didn’t trust it after hearing others experiences, and I just didn’t really like the car… back to another old k swapped civic and so much happier… this was exactly as I had suspected… but worse…😳 great video!

Damnit.. I was just about to get KTuner for my 23 Integra. This sucks. Any mods I can do to the engine to make it able to handle around 230HP?

What about tuning my 11th gen civic touring just to up the 180hp to around 250hp? I’m new to all of this and think that little bump would add a little more fun to daily driving. Would that be reliable on stock parts?

I respect this explanation. You showed us and explained your thought process and the logic behind it. 400Z goals now!

Probably the worst engine ever made by honda for "tuners", maybe, but probably the best engine made by honda for " normal" users, (probably the 98% of them). I have had three honda cars, 4 honda bikes, and my lawnmover is a honda also. I own a 1.5T civic, and i´m very happy with it, very powerfull, and very low consumption for the power. You couldn´t expect in the past to have a 182 CV car with this fuel consumption. Don´t expect "robust" engines from any manufacturer in the future they can´t comply with the new "rule" that is the fuel economy, low emissions, etc etc... Keep your K20 engines! Thanks for the video

What about the non turbo 2.0 in the 2022 civic sport. Can you build that reliably.

Seeing this video it makes me change my mind about buying this Si anymore . Thank you for sharing this video in your KZfaq Sir

I'm about to bull the trigger on 2023 Honda ZR-V 1.5t 😢 do you know what generation of the 1.5t engine it is using?

If I end up getting one I guess I will be keeping it stock

Those small safety margins are pretty disappointing, especially for something designed for a sporty car Honda knew people were going to modify and drive hard. I'm not seeing the advantage of this engine over the older ones either. If they were actually significantly more fuel efficient maybe I could accept the reduced durability as an unavoidable trade off, but that doesn't seem to be the case. I'm getting 40+ MPG out of my K24A2 swapped 04 Civic with the same or more power, no turbo lag, proven reliability, and huge tuning potential, so I fail to see how this is an improvement in any way other than probably being cheaper to manufacture and slightly lighter.

Thanks for the video this is super informative, it feels like this 1.5T was made to last a long time without a turbocharger LOL.

Thanks man. That knocked some sense in to my head.

Welp I’m keeping mine stock. I’ve had my 2020 Si for almost 2 years and so far I’ve only put on Fortune Auto 510 coilovers. I don’t think I’ll touch the engine and just keep it a reliable daily.

I believe you are on to something. Honda has already pushed a recall for the 2017-2020 CR-V's with the L15BE (1.5t engine). The Accord 2017-2022 (1.5t), and Accord 2023-present (1.5t non-hybrids), 2017-2022 Honda CR-V, and 2023-current Honda CR-V's use this engine still. Honda says they have corrected the issue in newer versions of the L15BE. But if there are issues with the engine NA, just imagine throwing a Turbo on it will just shorten the life of the engine even more. If the customer changes the oil at ever 5k miles that seems to be a good idea anyways but may mitigate some of the oil dilution issues seen. But I highly doubt these engines are good up past 150k, due to adding the turbo to them. The added heat alone will shorten the lifespan of a really well engineered engine. So I seriously doubt someone buying a 1.5t Honda engine expect it to go 200k plus. Most owners are good if they can get over 120k out of a stock engine and transmission when a turbo is involved. On the recall Honda has issued a limited warranty on those parts, nothing sizeable to make customer feel like Honda is going above and beyond. I wonder how many customers saw failure of their L15BE outside of the factory warranty, paid a pretty penny to get them repaired before Honda did the recall. I think we would call the ex-Honda customers. Don't get me wrong I have had really good Honda's, and this video just drives home the need to stay away from any of the 1.5t engines from Honda. Also I am choosing to go with a 10th gen 2.0t Accord as my next car. Very similar built engine to the Type-R, but not same internals or Turbo. Also the 11th gen Accord is a dud to me. Thanks for the video.

Is most of the issues at the 300 mark from stock internals? Im building a forged L Series in the UK, L13z1 (1.3, shorter stroke) but sourced a CRZ crankshaft with K1 Connecting Rods and Wiseco 10:1 Pistons to up the stroke to the same as the L15 (I kept stock compression as im not turboing straight away) In your opinion is below 250 hp with a built block unreachable? I'm aiming for 220 to the wheels. Mines a Fit engine so not the B7, but shares most of the same design aside from using port injection. And with regards to the crank are ARP main bolts a must? Ive avoided getting them and hoping to stick to just uaing their head studs as from what i understand it needs another line bore due to the extra torque needed on the bolts.

Hi, do you think new SI generation (2022 and above) have the same issue?

Wow! I was considering buying a 1.5 turbo civic here in the UK. I believe they are 180bhp here. I was hoping to keep the motor standard and have it remapped to about 200bhp but nothing else. I think I might avoid this car now as it'll be my daily driver as I have my DC2-R as my weekend toy.

The motor is fine for what it is out of the box as long as you have the willpower to leave it alone. Honda, or any car company for that matter is never going to put out something this day in age of slim-margin design that you can get blood from a stone on. You want something faster, save your clams for something else that's built for that.

I got the 11 gen SI and wanted to do so much more to it. I did a lot already but just seen a resent breakdown of the engine… I’m scared to push it because the engine breakdown showed that the block, crank, rods, and head bolts all can’t handle more than 300whp. Pretty much on narrowed time when completing a complete bolt on upgrade. Heartbreaking for me!!! I wanted to do so so much. I already got new rods and pistons. My fear now if I do more to my car is, will the crank hold strong? How will the head studs hold?

Thanks for the content. I was on the fence about buying an 11th gen Si. On to greener pastures.

The car is good for work and school that’s it. Lmao I bought the car thinking “awesome Honda made a turbo car from the factory and still keep the AC” lol performance wise it never met my expectations. I just bought me another 96 ek civic and a k24a2. I’m going to finish the payments on the 10th gen and trade in for a truck

Looks like Honda hired Chrysler engineers to make this for them! I was thinking about getting an SI but as a mechanic there’s no way I’d want to buy a car that has such a poorly designed engine. Even under normal use there’s some people reporting head gasket failures. I’m gonna keep my slow ass Corolla

What year of L15 engine is this? The ones in the DBA-GE8 chassis?

can someone PLEASE tell me if the car has issues STOCK??

damn might as well go with the n/a k series thats available

Agree 100%. Sucks as I believe the new Integra has same motor. I had a 1.5 Accord + CVT transmission which makes it 100x worst 🥴. In my case my tranny went out before anything engine related but I definitely can feel the weakness. Sold it and just went to a Genesis G70.

Bought my 24 SI with the intent of leaving it bone stock. It serves as my daily driver, kid hauler with good mpg. Good information in this video. I wish all the young bucks would watch this before throwing thousands at this platform

Hi this is Mike again, with the 2020 CRV with the gas engine and CVT transmission. I have always hear that Honda's transmissions are weak. I never slam the car into gear, I wait until after I select the grear engages before applying the gas forward or reverse. I start the car and wait until the tack goes down to around 1,200 t0 1,500 Rpm before putting it into gear, the shifting is so smooth I never feel a change. If one drives like that, you mean the CVT wont last 200,000?