I pinned your comment to the top, very good information there, especially the bypass and coolant speed. Everyone should read that.

That's Right Thank You

I would add, the thermostat blocking the bypass is on "some" cooling systems certainly not all. BUT it is a valid point! *ALSO MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE CORRECT THERMOSTAT STYLE* (For the Bypass to WORK/BLOCK properly) - Also that myth that Coolant is moving too fast when there is no thermostat is reinforced by people who have had their lower hose "suck flat" and didn't realize it. They are same crowd that thinks Chrome Valve Covers hold in heat. - Removing the thermostat will "usually" increase the speed of the coolant in the system, slightly increasing the "cooling capacity" of the radiator, and on a system that it is failing (overheating), it is a temporary Band-Aid, because your radiator/water pump has diminished capacity (or you have turned up your engine too far for the cooling capacity it was built with), and the slight flow increase will only make up the difference for a short time, until the Rad/Pump/Fan Clutch fails to cool the btu's that the engine is rejecting. - On our race cars we use tape to block the cooling air and do not run a thermostat, for several reasons...Mostly Aerodynamic (Tar Track) and Mud/Dirt Packing (Dirt Track)...But the cooling system is almost undersized (weight) and the faster coolant in the block keeps hotspots from forming...(The engine really runs good at 220-230°F but has extra clearances to not stick a valve or pinch a ring.)

Not sure about other cars, my Volvo mpg improves once I replaced broken thermostat. Stuck open thermostat let coolant run through the engine all the time and take longer time to reach the optimal temperature. Working thermostat let coolant pass through engine when it needs cool down. The car will reach the optimal temperature before heatjng up whole coolant.

I enjoyed you comment. The cooling system as a whole is designed to cool down the engine. Thermostats hold the heat in the block until they open up on a diesel. I ran a 3406b for over 2 yrs with broken thermostat (rare reason why). I figured I would just run it until she blows. Wouldn’t ever reach temp unless on a hard pull. So why then the different thermostats and why the different sizes of radiators. I can tell you but I’m barely a shade tree mechanic. Your reference is right but wrong. On a hard pull you need time Edit: I will not run a truck of my own without a fan on off switch. Reasons for this. Your argument maybe the cooling system is working right. My argument the load is hard to pull the hill.

Caterpillar stopped making over the road engines in the states I Beleive in 2010. Google sensors on any of the new engines. Oil and type of oil is a big deal.

burn off sludge? really? where is this sludge? I`ll watch for it next time I`m driving my truck in northern Sweden or Finland or uranis

@@606budwheel Stick your head up uramis and see. I am sure you are smarter than any toyota engineer you probably even passed 1st grade. Since you know nothing about engines I will point you to what used to be a breather and voided fumes and unburned hydrocarbons in the air but now recirculates it into the engine. Some even put catch cans on them to collect the sludge. You showed you know nothing about engines and are a buffoon even a lawn mower tech knows about fumes not being voided in the air anymore.

@@606budwheel I bet you believe everything scotty says don't you?

Dosen't burn off sludge!! If it did it would cause carbon deposits. It evaporates the water in the oil before it can mix with the oil to cause sludge to form or chemical reactions. dont be a smart @ss and talk down to people try to educate

Correct, it also has to do with time. Coolant needs time to absorb heat and carry it away, removing the restriction causes a higher flowrate, but less time to absorb.

@[Gaming Channel] The Eastern Bloc Brainlet Q Exactly...Put your hand in ice water and hold your hand still...Then do other hand and stir the water with your hand...time how long you can tolerate both! (Moving water takes a way heat faster, as long as its not aerated)...Divers in the Cold Ocean, have come to dive in our Rivers in winter time... They talk about the currents in the river carry away body heat faster than the tidal currents in Ocean...

@[Gaming Channel] The Eastern Bloc Brainlet Q Yup, the lower the temperature of that coolant when it enters the rad, the cooler it going to be when it leaves it. The faster the flow the better and as you say, the bigger the temp difference, the quicker the heat transfer. Also an overall higher flow rate system allows far more margin for problems with the cooling system if things do go wrong. My point was more about the flow dynamics around the cylinders rather than heat transfer overall.

@@darinareyacrazyman1505 the greater the difference in temperature of metal and coolant, the quicker the transfer of heat. Your perception would be true if the coolant were to only circulate once at warp speed, but that's not the case. The coolant stays in the engine plenty long enough for heat transfer to take place.

How is your heat in the winter?

I put a 160 in my mustang for racing years ago nothing happened but he is probably talking about new cars

@@johnstamper2965 Well considering he said "Sale" vs "Sell" I would assume that he is south of the Mason-Dixon line, so likely not an issue as they have no idea what Cold is. Also the only reason that he doesn't get a SES light is because the TBI Fuel System goes into closed loop at very low temperatures. But I can tell you that the power might be a bit better running cooler temps...but the MPG on that truck is trash...Having owned a TBI GM Vehicle myself and the Thermostat going bad cost me 3mpg (considering 15 was a good trip that's BAD) in mild Fall weather...Didn't really notice a big difference in summer.

Slightly lower temp and so much sh1t actually lasts a lot longer that at 210/220

that shit was fucing awesome man

Seen the same thing. 64 ford 292. Ran like junk until I put in a 190 back in it. The engine overhaul showed it as well.

Thank you.

Stock rocks.

That's a myth

I agree lower the coolant temperature also in my opinion the factory radiator will be more efficient at a cooler temperature but need to change the fan engagement temps to match the new thermostat setting.The average temperature around you vaporizes moisture all your doing is making sure that because your in a much higher temperature climate where the factory cooling system can only handle so much and in my opinion the temperature rating is for colder temperatures and with your average temperatures being extreme means the cooling system is always at the upper limits at what it can handle and moisture retention is never a problem but running in critical temps all the time is. So it's not just enough to have a lower thermostat setting but the fans also adjusted so that the radiator doesn't fail to keep the new temperature setting in place.But your not delaying eventual temperatures but keeping the temperatures right where you want them to be.And I would also like to add that the factory radiator will work better than intended because the factory radiator can easily cool off lower temperature setting versus critical temps you might be able to bring the temperature down with a factory set up and factory temps but the oil temperature will be boiling over regardless. So like a runaway effect that is primed and ready by putting a lower thermostat setting there is no runaway temperature fluctuations waiting to happen like just a few temperatures away but by 30 degrees cooler.I think your right and would be doing the same thing.But also there has to be in the new models a computer adjustment to say the lower temperatures are ok as well. There is hardware and software available to reprogram the on board computers.But that has to happen along with the other changes to be effective and without a problem it will be smooth sailing where do you live and that's a beautiful thing.

That is INSANE! - I have used a torch on king pins to warm the rock hard grease and melt it out so new grease can be pumped in...Almost a daily task when working on Vintage Trucks.

I believe that, any mechanic that has seen a twin I beam front axle on Ford truck of any era has seen (DO NOT USE HEAT) in raised letters on the beams. I have also seen it on other medium and heavy truck steering axles. I will admit that I have had to ignore that warning many times. In the rust belt the most important tool to have is a good set of torches!

@@jimmotormedic It says Do Not Use Heat to re-align the axle. Meaning do not heat to the temperature where the axle glows red or yellow so you can bend the axle for alignment. Minor heating to allow grease to flow is something different.

@@oby-1607 You are correct

Agh great research this was my question about generic aftermarket oil cooler's. "Increase your oil capacity" claims might not be the answer then. Maintaining optimal operating temperature would be very specific to each vehicle on how that can be achieved. Wow simply 2 plates off the cooler on yours was enough to be an issue. I'm glad I caught this because I was that guy who thought cooler was always better, all the internal parts in harmony is the proper goal. I'll scratch the extended oil line running through the AC blower plan. Lol 🤣

@@SP-mp9yi 134a cooled oil would be awesome so long as it had a thermostat like I'm running on my ATF it's 160° mishimoto bypass thermostat plumbed in - 12. My Allison requires a minimum of 148 to allow shift trim adjustments anything less than this the transmission expects wonky viscosity results therefore prohibits shift trim adjustments making the first run through the gears not so great.

That's why the air cooled deutz engines where so efficient. When you're not worried about boiling coolant, you can let the cylinder temps get a whole lot hotter. As long as the oil is kept in check.

Haha I did this same thing to my 89 XJ and it fixed all my problems. Just gotta make sure it's a tiny hole!

@@SandersChicken Still waiting on a punk who thinks he knows it all to tell me I can’t do that. There are so many different theories around the cooling of that engine that frankly don’t make sense. Some people don’t notice they started having problems with the thermostat after upgrading fans.

@@jesusyuca1483 The burp/trickle hole has been around as long as the thermostat itself...300 Ford six has similar issues. - GM in the late 80's and Early 90's went to the extreme with similar idea... 87 G20 350 V8... With the thermostat closed the coolant within the engine was circulated thru the heater core, and rather than keep recirculating that same coolant until engine got warm, the dumped the outlet of the heater core directly into the radiator...It had the same effect as a normal system with a "stuck half way open thermostat" or a 1/2" Burp Hole! - Took forever to warm up from COLD...SMH! - I remember my father putting a 1/32"-1/16" hole in the stat of his 300-6, he was a troubleshooter for Ford's warranty program in the 70s...the guys that write the TSBs because of field complaints...He said you need enough to piss thru there, not so much it cools the engine... Some of those engines would have benefit from the dual stats used on big trucks, you could have different 2 temps for variable cooling...like dual fans on newer cars.

@@misters2837 I appreciate the comment. Obviously having a peehole on the thermostat makes complete sense if you want a simple yet effective design. How else are you going to get the best results to keep the thermostat getting hot water straight from the head to get the most accurate moments to open and close. That is why newer cars have such complicated designs and honestly I don’t think they do such a good job like a simple hole does. The only set back is the slower warm ups.

I have owned over 15 vehicles throughout the years, I have killed one engine from repeated overheating all other vehicles I remove thermostat. No one has managed to convince me otherwise. I got my view from my experience with one of the most bulletproof vehicles I own 80 series land cruiser. It was manufactured with a oversized radiator and temperature gauge never reach half, everyone stand by the durability of these vehicles, I might be wrong but I never encounter any issues so far.

Osborne Reynolds would disagree...The faster fluid flows, the more turbulent it is, resulting in HIGHER thermal transfer...However the water pump must be of a design as to not create cavitation, which would be counter productive.

That person told u wrong

@@pr0n5tar What Person Told WHO Wrong?

Wrong.

bigger problem then

I have staggered 180;190 as well. 800hp cat. I like that during the summer I’m not running against 200 all the time, slight hill and it would go over 200.

I'm glad I saw this video though because I've considered pulling my thermostat and running an electric pump but someone mentioned in the comments that your heater core passages mess with the flow of coolant with no thermostat

How often (miles) do you grease them? Never had an issue here in New Zealand but companies are basically required to have trucks greases every 15,000km or they void their insurance

@@keyboardplayerakas I try to grease my truck every 5000 miles or max 10,000. I bought the truck with a bad kingpin.

Mine had to be heated to near melted with a 150 ton press , It ruined the hole so i ground off the axle end and welded the new ones in , they lasted to the end of vehicles life . Mostly overloading and very high mileage had welded them in .

@@MyKharli goodness gracious. What a nightmare. Great job overcoming! Replacing the entire axle ain’t cheap. I know cuz I priced it out.

@@PickupsAreNotTrucks They are silly expensive and second hand ones have the same fault imo . It was hard ensuring the kingpin was correctly aligned and keeping the top surfaces clean and flat . TBH i was always sightly worried the weld would crack off even though i did a beefy job . It passed the MOT for many more years though . TY for reply .

I had a customer come in with a cold air I take that let water in the engine. I showed him the scotty Kilmer video about it. The look on his face.. made my day

The next video I'm posting, it's in the snow, but I had some sun before this one.

Being familiar with the general goings on at the Ford, GM and Chrysler plants in the Metro Detroit area and knowing where their “engineers” get their ideas from I’d have to say those shade tree mechanics know a little more than you think they do.

@@Big31sky well yeah, good point. After all we are talking about Detroit here....

As Someone who owns a few vehicles that acts such a way, I can tell you it has ZERO to do with longevity and EVERYTHING to do with emissions. The sooner the MFR can get said vehicle at operating temp, sooner they can go into closed loop...and its usually 135°F that it drops into O/D and closed loop, even though the engines run 190-200°F - Also Speeds the warm up cycle for those of us that get Arctic weather!

Yes i found in a race application a water restricter plate in place of t stat created a prefect temp for my street strip engine

He would probably have seen/used just normal water and no coolant in there too...'its not just anti freeze' would usually fall on deaf ears...Seen it all too often in Africa..