Hahhahahahahaha!

Ooh good call. We actually keep talking about a Lattice trip to Norway and Sweden... and then Covid killed it :-(

I second this

That would be dope af!

​@@LatticeTraining is it possible now?

OMG. It never stops.... :-D

Thanks!!

What's a mono but a really small crack?

Pete is one of like 10 people who sent cobra crack which has a super powerful mono finger lock on it! He trained mono strength specifically for that route.

Good to see you on the Wideboyz live yesterday. Incredible knowledge from you... a true CrackHead 🙌😎

that is to spread out the force which will try to pop her off the hold by spreading out her deceleration over a longer period in time. not dissimilar to the way you bend your knees when jumping off something to absorb the impact (landing with straight legs = grim) . It reduces the peak force she has to generate to stick the hold. she fell into it dynamically so she had velocity she needed to decelerate. If she held her body rigidly when she caught it there would be a higher peak force and more chance of popping off even though she has the strength to hold that position statically. when she gets there she has to generate enough force to overcome her weight + decelerating momentum. throwing her head back in the opposite direction to her velocity at the point in time she is decelerating the quickest (when she has just grabbed the hold and is trying to stop) helps reduce the force that stopping her momentum is contributing to pulling her off the hold. you will notice people often throw a leg back in dynamic moves, catching with a bent arm and sagging into it ect.. for similar reasons. using your body like a monkeys tail to give you better control over exactly when you decelerate. you will also notice people do not do this when moving to a hold statically because they have no velocity to decelerate, unless they are doing it out of habit. As for injury, I've never heard of anyone straining their neck this way. I think it is safe as long as you don't really lock up and jerk violently. In principle it is to soften movements! so that shouldn't be a problem. If you want to do it less then there are a few things to think about (hard to give advice without seeing you climb): go statically when you can (move in a manner you could stop at any point in the movement). this sometimes requires more strength and body tension, is also often less efficient but gives you the best chance of sticking the hold once you get there!. when being dynamic, think about trying to generate only enough momentum to just get you there and no more, look into deadpointing. pay attention to the smoothness of your movement. going between holds is a transition with shifting body tension ect... how well you perform it is as important as where you started and where you are stopping in determining success. Avoid focusing on just the position you want to land in on the next hold. If possible think ahead, try to have a foot somewhere in the direction of the hold you are throwing to so you have something to push against and help stop you once you are there. realise there are other parts of your body you can use like Jen like a free leg, or sagging into your shoulders when you catch to try and absorb the impact. there is nothing wrong with doing it, it is just another tool in your toolbox. if you are over reliant compared to others then perhaps it is a sign you are overly diynamic, overshooting ect.. Unless I have miss diagnosed, if you aren't doing it in an attempt to stick a hold you moved to dynamically, then its because you are releasing you body tension on reaching your target (in most situations it is best to avoid doing that!) Oh my, what a ramble.. sorry! I just kept thinking of more stuff xD

@@Dougal866 thank you, Bob! I'll try to do some analysis the next time it happens to see if it's useful (deceleration) or a symptom of losing tension. I appreciate the elaborate reply, really good!! Thanks

Give DarkVentures a shout - they'll let you know!

cryptic...

@@alexaverbuch1 google will solve all :-)

They make everyone uncomfortable when they pull on 😅😅

I used to use it until I broke a2 and a3 because of using that damn finger, it's anatomically weaker I think, though some people seem to have a stronger one

Was wondering about that, I hope it's theirs, great free content and great coaching content too.