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My 14th and final day in Albania kicked off in the beautiful seaside city of Vlore! Join me as I finish up my epic road trip through Albania with some incredible Albanian fish at a unique restaurant and explore ancient Apollonia!
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My day started at Bologna Hotel, a boutique hotel by the water on the boardwalk. They have 40 rooms and offer an amazing breakfast. Most of the rooms overlook the sea.
We started with a simple buffet-style breakfast of cheese, sausage, eggs, and some cake.
Then, I headed up to my room, where I had an open space with a king-sized bed, a desk, a nice bathroom, and a stunning view of the water. Downstairs, they also have an amazing lobby and a relaxing area where you can chill and lounge.
Then, we headed to Independence Square, where Albania’s independence was declared on November 28, 1912, and Rruga Justin Godard, or Museum Road. The buildings are new, but they have recreated the style of Old Vlore.
Then, we drove on toward Apollonia, a massive ancient city that used to be home to 60,000 people. Only parts of it have been unearthed. There, you’ll find a theatre, a temple, the bouleuterion, an odeon, housing, columns, shops, and more.
After finding and moving a Hermann’s tortoise from the ancient storehouse, we headed to the monastery. The stones from the floor are from the city in the 3rd century.
St. Mary’s Church was built in the 17th century with stones from archaeological sites. There’s a well and beautifully sculpted columns inside. I could also see some 17th-century frescoes, which were fading.
Inside the church is a large calendar on the floor. The statues here were found in the archaeological park. Some were part of tombs. There’s also some beautiful, massive pottery and Roman statues from the 2nd and 3rd centuries, which are all missing their heads.
Next, we hit the road again and drove to a monastery at the top of a hill. It was built in 282. It’s the wedding place of the national hero, Skanderbeg! Inside are original frescoes and icons. Monks still live there. Mass was taking place while we visited, so we had to be quiet.
Then, we arrived at Restorant Ali Kali. There, we met the owner, Ali, who took me to the kitchen, where I could see fish and prawns grilling over coals.
Ali and the staff are super welcoming. You can eat on a huge terrace outside that gets packed. The thing that makes this place so unique is that Ali serves his customers from horseback!
First, we had some smooth and cold blackberry raki, followed by yogurt sauce with salad, cheese with pickled peppers, fërgesë, and French fries. The cheese with peppers was spicy and super tasty!
Next, Ali served some toasted white bread, which I piled with cheese and peppers and fërgesë. It’s a perfect combination! Then, we had some cheese that had been grilled and some tomatoes.
Then, I saw Ali riding the horse with the clamper full of fish! He served us a monster-sized wild sea bass, which is over 1 kilo! It’s so tasty and the skin is crunchy. After a while, I just dug in with my hands.
Then, they brought us more fish and some grilled shrimp. The meat was like butter. I had to go through it slowly to be careful of the spines. But the meal was so incredible, the restaurant is one of my favorites of all time!
We finished up with fresh yogurt with honey, which was more honey than yogurt! This dish is a staple in the Balkans and one of my favorites.
Where have you been?
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About Me:
My name is David Hoffmann. For the last 12 years, I have been traveling around the world in search of unique culture, food, and history! Since starting David’s Been Here in 2008, I have traveled to over 1,100 destinations in 77 countries, which I welcome you to check out on my KZfaq channel, travel blog, and social media sites.
I focus a great deal on food and historical sites, as you probably have seen! I love to experience the different flavors that each destination has to offer, from casual street food to gourmet restaurant dining. I’m also passionate about learning about the local history and culture.
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