Learning a lot from the comments, cheers!

Here is a tip - don't use the wooden mixer stick to apply the filler. Get a proper steel palette knife with a square end, 30 to 50 mm wide.This will reduce waste and you will smooth off the surface better and not have to do so much sanding and grinding. Also never mix with the pot in your hand - it raises the temp to your own body temp 37 C. set the pot on a flat surface.

The Tom Sawyer approach. Respect the hustle. She needs at least 316L/A4 stainless for those plates as a budget option, and match the bolts. No need for a whole sheet for something so small; cut offs can be had from a metal shop.

I’m pretty sure you won’t read this, but why not just cut the windows to a bigger size? Use 1/2 inch polycarbonate and glass it in then frame it, kill three birds with one stone, 1) gets rid of the rot, 2) is structural again, and three you can order the window to fit perfectly.. easy good looking fit, plus you have big new windows actually glassed in, never leak solution.😊

You should put a big raised tarp over it all so it can be open and dry out no matter the weather

That's exactly how I'd repair those windows. Sometimes you have to go with a good and quick repair over perfect.

No bodging the Mahi your future lady shipmates must have a safe ship ❤

I would do that differently. Like as an instance: save that job until after you finished the 3 months because it is above the water line it can be done anywhere and focus instead on things that need to be done while your boat is out of the water. This way you keep it on your list but the list is prioritised according to necessity for the haulout knowing it is a high priority but a job that can be saved for later if you are pressed for time. It's your boat captain Mark your decision, your way, your time, you channel. It's a good enough job you have done and always can be redone at a later date.

I use mylar folders to create a smooth finish when working with epoxy. You get about 20 folders for $1usd which can be cut to size. After applying epoxy and removing excess with a spatula (not a random stick of plywood) apply the mylar which adheres to the epoxy via hydrostatic pressure so no need for taping in place. It also helps keeping clamps from being covered in epoxy. After the epoxy cures fully simply pull the mylar away. You'll be left with a glass smooth finish and best of all its reusable.

Here's the thing, its shoddy work. Mark admits it's shoddy work. Mark doesnt care that he does shoddy work or that he gets called out for it repeatedly. Mark is Mark. Hes not Mads. Hes not Johan. Hes not Aladino. Mahi is not Athena or Magic Carpet. Its all good entertainment for the shoddy craftsman and the perfectionists. Mark, as long as you stay focused on the boat and the channel it's a win.

West system epoxy tips: I have probably gone through 10 gallons of west system epoxy ( using the pumps) and never once had it not set. Either you somehow did not get a full pump of one part (easy to do- make sure to press all the way down) or maybe you did not mix well enough. I like the west system 804 mixing sticks because the square end allows you to get into the corners of your mixing cup. And you can reuse them. Mix the two parts together and then mix in the filler. You seem to be using the 406 thickener by how it is clumping. Most folks ( including me ) use the 404 high density adhesive filler. It is super strong and sticky and mixes up nice and creamy. Of course you can choose how thick you want it by how much thickener you put in. From just a little less runny to peanut butter. Don’t add a preset amount, but add and mix until you have the consistency you want. The only downside to 404 is that when it sets it’s pretty hard so you will need the right tools to shape it after the fact. When a little less strength is required I like the 405 filiting blend. It is strong, really holds it shape, does not shrink too much and sands/ grinds better than 404. I never use the microlight any more. I feel like it slumps, shrinks, is not strong, and does not stick as well. It sure does sand easy, but I threw mine away. For shaping after the set you don’t want to start by sanding. Start with the 3 inch 3m grinding discs ( 3m 36536) in a roloc holder (such as 3m 05540). The disks are about $4 which seems expensive but they last a super long time unless you get into something gooey, so you only need a few. You can put the 5540 in a drill motor, but I like a right angle so I use a Milwaukee m12 2415-20. Any drill would do, but the right angle gives me more control. This gives me a kind of small light low speed angle grinder that will walk right through even hardened 404, but is easy to control and does not throw dust everywhere like a real angle grinder. Grind to shape, then just sand for the final finish. Anytime you have a screw that goes into the hull from the outside you want to drill it oversize, tape it closed on the inside, fill it with thickened (404) epoxy, and then drill the correct sized hole in the epoxy. This stops water from getting into your core material when it leaks around the screw. I did not always do this and I have paid for that. If they had done that at the windows you would not have that rot. If you have west system epoxy you dont need an epoxy prime coat, you can just use your epoxy. It rolls on really well, sticks to most anything and most anything will stick to it. The west system 800 foam rollers are great for this because they don’t soak up a ton of material like regular foam rollers. Epoxy is a little expensive to be throwing away a roller that is holding an OZ or so if it. Normally I cut the rollers in 1/2 or 1/3. You can also cut a little strip of roller to ‘tip’ the epoxy after you roll it if you want a super smooth finish. If you are priming below the water line you are supposed to add 422 barrier coat additive. This has really worked well for me. When rolling and tipping epoxy I find I can get between 5 and 10 OZ ( pumps) on in a batch. Then it starts to set enough that it pulls the roller apart. I use all of their hardeners, but prefer to 207. It has a nice setting time and you don’t have to worry about amine blush. When laying glass on a vertical surface sometimes it does not like stay put once you wet it out. Especially if you use heavy 1708 biax glass like I do. A good trick is to spread thickened epoxy (404) on the surface then place the glass on the surface, the wet it out from the backside. It will usually stay put. A big section of wet glass falling off into you lap is no fun. If you are trying for a nice finish remember that epoxy continues to shrink for a few days. So, if you fill a hole and then grind it flush as soon as it sets, you will have a little concave area after a few days. Sometime you have no choice but if you can let it sit overnight or longer before you grind it you will get better results.

I love how people come to help you. You are a very easy going and entertaining to watch and most importantly appreciative for the help people give you.

Omg dude you rock on progress with your boat skills…

Mate, I could tell by the size of your ultrafine fairing compound scoops that it wasnt gonna set properly. Try flattening your scoops off to get closer to the proper ratio :D Much love!

Mark, what a life! I'm proper envious. Thank you for the videos.

I would have just made the windows bigger. 😂😂 Cut out the rot.😅

Cake decorating plastic bags filled with thickened epoxy works well to squeeze product into voids. Even small plastic bags with corner cut off will work. Clean up the excess using finger or plastic scraper before epoxy cures saves time sanding. For replacing rotted crossbar supports consider making solid fiberglass replacements which will never rot. Nice work, great to see you have some help

Some little advice: Drill every hole where water may get about 6-10 mm. too big.(depending on the size of the hole you need.) Then fill the hole with thickened epoxy (after wetting it out with thin epoxy and wait till it starts to get really tacky. When fully cured, drill the holes you need through the epoxy.👴🧐😁

Big ups to the kind souls that helped this week. Yall are cooler than the other side of my pillow

John looked pretty handy with a power tool. Good work.

I for one look forward to your episodes. Every week !

Them cross beams Mark, go ballistic on there azzes, that’s what failed on Zingaro’s first catamaran, just off Hawaii, seriously he had the coastguard and everyone on standby, he actually in the middle of the night in bigs sea’s strapped the boat with ropes and anything he could find, and actually got to Hawaii, where the boat was officially a wreak, never to sail again, I believe you said dad was helping with this? Just simply if you think “that’s strong enough” make them stronger.. if anything is going to fail, it will be them beam where the attach.. even use a nice stainless steel frame from the new engine supports, (i still believe in them Suzukis) as another cross beam. If you can actually try to make a H frame outta stainless, whatever you decide, Go extreme!

... great news that dad is on the engine mount project, did not know it was on the agenda, cringed every time it was showed ..... it will be far superior .... thx for the share .. as always .. never stop dreaming, just dream bigger .. have fun be safe, save our oceans .....

There is 101 ways to repair the rotten wood under the fiberglass, it looks like you are doing a decent repair job on the way you chose to do it.

Hundreds of thousands of loyal fans. Crack on mate from Asia / Canada.

You should eliminate all screw holes on the windows and use the system that “shiphapens” used in their fishing boat!! Special tape! Thanks for sharing

was worried when you kept smearing the epoxy without clamps, when you showed the clamping my anxiety went away... Hope that it keeps floating for a long time and no repairs are needed to the windows beyond what you did!

You have to do what you have to do given your time constraints and your budget. 🤷‍♀️ As long as it is safe it is good enough lol People need to realize this is the first haul out and refurbishing of many to come down the road to get her in tipy top shape. It is all part of the journey 😊

The old saying about making a silk purse out of a sow’s ear comes to mind.

I reckon you need an angle grinder. sand paper disk, with a backing plate. Skip the flap disks, just get a flat sand paper disks. You can go all the way down to 36 grit and remove material like crazy. Orbital sander is for finishing. I'm surprised that the stanley orbital was the most expensive! I have that model too. I think it's maybe serious DIY but not trade quality.

Sometimes when I watch your videos I cringe and then there are times when I celebrate with you on your progress, Today was more cringe than celebration. I hope you are keeping track of all the "short cuts" so you know how much future work you have in store. Good luck. I admire your tenacity.

You have done a fine job of fixing the windows. The result is perfectly acceptable. Stay positive she is coming along great.

Moving along faster than expected!!!

This would be a perfect way for a fibre glass company to strut their stuff and show their products off, same with companies that install sky lights, to show their workmanship at the same time do a good deed for fellow humanity.

Next time you use epoxy cover it with cling film , it will form to the shape of the surface , be a smooth finish and will only require a bit of shaping with wet and dry sand paper. And use a scraper / putty knife instead of a piece of wood . Great videos 😊⛵️

Cracking along. Good going there Mark.

Looking great! nothing to be ashamed with when you’re doing everything on a budget . Function over form when on a time crunch

Surprisingly little rot for a boat that was open to the weather for so long. Well done.

I love the help you get from craftsman to labouring and catering (Pide looked yummy).

I'm in Australia an I have a water maker called a rain man. Mine is a 240 v electric version that I run of the generator but they also have version that is driven by a Honda petrol motor. They don't have to be installed, totally portable, very good quality. You find them online,so have a look. I'm pretty sure they have a 12v version as well. All the best.

As the saying goes: Perfect is the Enemy of Getting Things Done. Sometimes you just have to… Get”er Done!

Your dad is super-duper, very laidback gentleman, and your mum a super lady. And you young man you take after them. Your boat is starting to take shape and yet I am 9 months behind. I can’t wait to catch up with the last video. Wishing you all the best. Karim from the Uk in Windsor.

This seems like the correct approach to me. Quick bodge for the windows now, fix the beams properly now, redo the cabintops to your satisfaction down the line someplace where you can nap under a convenient palm tree between sanding coats of epoxy and paint. Thanks again for a weekly dose of Mahi time!

There will always be rot in that boat unless you cut it all out . However it should be fine . Make sure you do the structural stuff right though . If rotten or wet it has to go and be replaced .

18:16 MIRKA - the Dogz…..!!! Was going to suggest you get one when you started however I know they are ridiculously expensive. Knowing how much sanding you’re going to do it would be a price worth paying. They are fantastic. A suggestion would also be to get the nonclogging sanding discs, they’re like a mesh, and you just blow them out to clear them. Expensive but then you save money in the long run. Hope this helps (update: just realised you are using the proper nonclogging discs… Note to self, watch the whole video before commenting 😂)

Great video as usual Mark. I'd get that tarp up to provide not only shade but also ready for rain at any point.

"You must decide quickly" OMG that pizza or pide thing. DO it!

The damp ply will continue to rot out under the fibreglass and eventually you’ll end up with soft cabin sides that won’t take a hit from a big sea. In the meantime, you’ve rescued the boat for a while to get some sailing in. 👍

Also sandwiche bags work great for applying epoxy! Think of it as using it just like a cake frosting decorating bag !

Hey Mark! Can you do a design episode of your deck pod ideas? I think this boat could be great with a covered open cockpit design. Love to see what you are thinking. Cheers

Doing great mate, not a bodge job at all, I have fixed alot of other peoples dodge jobs and yours is fine. With the Sanders you will probably find the difference is actually just the sand paper, if you can get the purple 3M sand paper it chews material off and lasts 4 times as long

Love the repairs, definitely an effective repair not bodgey

GOT TO HAND IT TO YOU. YOU ARE MOVING FORWARD

When applying thickened epoxy into holes or voids, you might try to use large food storage bags, filled, then clip the corner and use like a pastry bag. I've seen this used in boat applications.

The thing about Wharrams is, good enough is perfectly fine. You cant sink a Wharram if you filled both hulls with water. That said, Fix it well enough so youre not revisiting the same problem down the road.

Thickened epoxy ,you must mix resin and hardener first,then add filler of any kind ,maybe that is why your epoxy did not harden…yes

In Canada we say: cludge!

'Over-Drill' all existing holes and fill them with thickened epoxy. When set, drill to the smaller bolt size and you won't have to worry about water getting into the ply...'Never trust the cooking of a skinny Chef', that 'Pizza' looked tasty!... 😋

Hey Mark, Methylated Spirits poured down any screw holes will dry out any moisture in the area, I used this on my own 35 foot Coral Sea 35 cat made of laminated hoop pine ply and epoxy. On small areas maybe look at a wood hardener product that can reverse the soft wood rot and convert the spongy wood to a harder finish again (used this on cedar windows on a house and restained and laquered them and you wouldn't know they had been rotten...) Also, when mixing any powder or micro beads into your epoxy as a filler, you want it to be the consistency of peanut butter...smooth type not crunchy😂 Love your videos mate...good luck with your repair and refit and hope to see you in the South Pacific one day 👍 - Sean on SV Valhalla

I look forward to these videos. I also appreciate that you don’t feel the need to make some big clickbait title and “disaster” video when you hit a bump. 👍 My kind of content.

Something that can help is if you go to a hardware store that sells larger belt sanders or table drum/belt sanders, they should have a cleaner/eraser block that usually cleans sanding belts/disc's. My grandfather has been a craftsman as a hobby for 50 years now but loves watching and thought I should mention it

Someone said “Don’t let PERFECT be the enemy of GOOD.” There is profound wisdom here - we often spend way too much time striving for perfection in any task when good or very good is the real target. And our view of perfection is not always other people’s either. I think you are probably displaying this wisdom in your own approach. Mark you are an impressive individual and I intend to figure out how to support you. 👍

Brick by brick Mark, brick by brick!

Your new UK helper looks to have some good wood skills. Very handy!

Great job! Keep up the go work mark!

Great job Mark. I am just not sure how much pressure you have on your timeline and cash flow, but I think it would have been better to cut out the outer plywood to see the extent of the rot and cut an extra inch beyond the rot before fixing the windows. In regards to your backing plate, it would be better to have a harder material as a backplate with a washer per bolt to strengthen and spread the load of the beam. Do not skimp on the support on the beam, as on rough seas the beam might fall off, which would lead to more disaster.

Right tool for the job is rarely a poor investment.

Another great Video Mark , She really is coming along nicely

One advantage of re building the cabin tops would have been a bit more head room, however as you said a BIG job. Glad you are progressing, and getting some help. I think you expected the type of problems you are finding. If you took that tarp out to Sea it would be a great water collection device 🙂looking forward to seeing how you fit the windows.

It looks like those window repairs will be strong. Don't be so scared of the viewer's comments Mark. Most of us respect you and your innovations. Looking forward to your future adventures on the water. I like the look of Mahi.

Finnish engineering is superb. You get what you pay for.

Use a cake icing bag with nozzle, the ones they use for writing on the cake, to squirt in the filler.

When you finish the double window port repairs you should make the perspex windows double size, ie one piece of window covering two port holes. It will look way better !

The merka sander and vacuum combo are unbeatable! Absolutely game changing for sanding masts for paint as I use it

Yo! The guy on sailing Duracell takes a zip- lock bag filled with that epoxy filler, snips one corner and squeezes it around like icing. He and his family is doing some great things with a 60’ racing boat. Keep on trucking!!

Tip on sanding: Carbide grit disk, I believe made by "Duragrit" in Canada 120 mm 80 grit or 60 grit hook and loop attachment. Works great and last forever and cleans off well when clogged.

I actually use almost exactly the same Mirka sander setup in my bodyshop (mine is pneumatic not electric) with the same extractor vac. Not common for DIY but very well respected for professional use. The right tool for the job makes it much easier :). Keep up the good work, your living the dream!

Did you consider a 'stand pipe' instead of 'through hull fittings'? youtube channel 'Alluring arctic sailing' did an episode about it. You 'extend' the hull inwards into a tall pipe and then attach all the valves and fittings to the standpipe ABOVE the waterline. This means you can remove and change fittings even at sea! Best to have one pipe for all inflows and a second for all outflows ( inflow fore in one hull and outflow aft in other hull to avoid possible cross contamination?).

Do it right the first time around. Moisture problems need serious attention,,,tools…you’ll always get what you pay for, count on it…the more you can stick to quality, the results and rewards will pay for themselves over and over…when you are in the middle of any off the oceans you want confidence in your boat and work on it..that is what you are doing this for, safety and pieces of mind…be safe…

Best to use aluminum or steel for backing plates.

I used to use the largest syringe that you can get from the vetenarians to get resin into hard to reach spots or fill bubbles, there single use only but work well.

Great job on those repairs. Inspires me to get back to work on my boat. When you are working with those epoxy powders, you have to wear a mask at minimum. That stuff is super hazardous if it gets in your lungs. I'll get off my high horse now.

Mark - put your epoxy in an icing bag made out of polybags with the corner cut off. Use it to squirt the epoxy into narrow spaces and joints. Works a treat and faster than a spatula - time is against you so every little helps. Good luck.

Great work love this guy!

Gotta love that pragmatic window restoration. Very clever! I'd bet it lasts 20 years minimum.

I'm with you on the no thru hulls below the waterline. I took all of them out of my boat, and it makes me sleep better at night. I'm also going to do the "drop a pipe into the water" style of watermaker, and for the toilet i have a composting.

Epoxy that hasn't gone off as yet is a pain to sand. I do a lot of joinery repairs here in Australia. A few of us use a wood preservative spray before the thin epoxy. It soaks in a long way and actually helps dry out the timber. We also use a thing called a tungsten scaper which saves so much sanding and leaves a good surface. + one on the spatula to apply epoxy (saves on the sanding) but often i prefer bits of flexable plastic as if it's the right stuff the epoxy peals off when dry. Great job on the windows, they are non-critical and easy to do another repair later on if necessary. Lots of good choices being made i would say.... On critical areas do try to get out or dry Wet timber. I believe the spores are embedded in the timber as it grows so all it needs is moisture to activate it once it's cut down. We work on trying to get down to 18% moisture content in an ideal world before sealing it up again..... depends on how long you want it to last though. Enjoy Regards Michael

Rescue and recovery. Quoting Andy of Melody, "better to do something than nothing, especially when you can't do everything". Channel your inner focus and finish those windows, one of your main sources leaks and rot. Grateful for all the help: cleaning the aft cabin, making a chain plate backing plate, creating some sole floor boards and hatch covers, lots and lots of sanding. Two suggestions: Try a syringe 💉 for dispensing liquid epoxy. Maybe use a piping bag with one end cut off to fill with thicker epoxy mixes.

Saving the boat and giving her a new lease of life is brilliant doin something many out there wouldn't be brave enough to take on and finish I love giving stuff another chance of life. I've found the challenge staying motivated on big projects and finishing them it can be hard staying focus but you will get there. One question from a numpty (me) would it have been possible to open out the apertures to good wood and fit larger marine windows? I'd love to come and help if I had age on my side ! 😂

I see your solution as a 5 year plan. In 5 years you'll have to do it all over again but at that time you'll have more time/money/experience/enthusiasm.

Get some sandwich bags cut a corner off use them as squeeze bags for the epoxy fiberglass filler much easier for seams and filling gaps.

Get big washers behind those backing-plate nuts

Swapping food for work sounds a blissful way to live 😊

For any rotten bits you find, you can always drill and inject either epoxy, or just spray foam over the section and fibreglass over for a second layer of insulated structure. (For panels not corners or beams) you might consider going to scrap metal and getting some aluminium to plate the outside of some panels.

So much rot high up makes me really nervous. Especially since it has been going on for such a long time. Water/moisture travels downwards... "Hoping for the best but expecting the worst"...

Mark,,,you seem to have been very thorough with all the work you've done so far, I'm really REALLY impressed!👏 Also big shout out to everyone who's offering their help,,,Sylvia - Im mega impressed with your cleaning skills!!👏👏👏 As always,,,soo darn proud & see you soon,,Love 🌈🌻Momma🌻🌈

somthing for clearing out rotten screw holes that iv seen sail life do its using an alan key in a drill to scrape a bigger diameter inside.

Although I'm new to video editing, I came up with an exciting idea. With the abundance of content out there, I'm convinced that producing two videos per week would captivate viewers' attention. Moreover, I believe it has the potential to double your income! 😄

Hey Mark, fantastic to see the progress you are making. Been following your exploits pretty much from day-one, and its lovely to see the help and support you are getting. Lovely humans attract lovely humans. Hats off, and very best wishes to you all.

Bro, I appreciate your commitment to using scrap wood to fill your voids with thickened epoxy, but..... It might be easier using a silicone spatula.