Fitzee thank you for showing this as it answered all I needed to know about the heater before I buy it for my camper I’m building

Good content as usual. Your combustion air intake (smaller black hose) should be outside. That's how they are designed to be used in big trucks (the original target community). A CO detector is a good idea too. As far as stale air is concerned as long as you're not burning inside air (you are) or sucking in exhaust fumes the heater shouldn't affect air quality any more than your electric heaters. My shop use to be a barn, 30x40. It had small doors for goats to use. When I converted it I closed those doors off save one which I modified to seal off the air intake of an 80,000 BTU (23KW) fan forced kerosene/diesel 'torpedo' heater. (these diesel parking heaters were really expensive back then). It keeps my shop warm, 70+ F, even when it's 0 F outside and the CO detector never even goes above 0 ppm. (I know the detector works because it detects CO if I run an engine in the shop without connecting an exhaust hose. ). BTW, I have one of the 2KW Chinese diesel heaters in my van. It works great.

I have been debating getting this heater. After watching you...I ordered mine. Thanks Fitzi

Very cool idea! I did basically the same thing with a small homemade wood stove but ran the chimney out an existing window instead of the garage door. Just took the glass out and replaced it with a piece of sheet metal. Got a fan blowing behind the stove and it works incredible for a small amount of wood 👍

Your ingenuity is only surpassed by your talent for inventiveness (yes, it's a word). Kudos Mr. Fitzee.

Tony, Since it's a diesel heater, the unit starts the glow plug first. Once that heats up then the pump starts. The biggest power drain is on start up and shut down as that's when the glow plug is activated. Don't let the battery die or get too low! Use a "tender" type charger on it. If the unit is running while the power dies, the burner will overheat and the controller will cook... in seconds. The body of the burner itself gets over 210 or more Celcius. Some see 245C. Please don't wait for the green fuel line to fail. It tends to degrade and leak. Smells from the unit running are often because the exhaust pipe is leaking where it is clamped to the burner. Put a little muffler paste around the burner pipe to seal it and use an exhaust type clamp instead of the Jubilee clamp that comes with it. I run furnace oil in mine. It's cheaper than diesel here but diesel and furnace are both "middle distillates" and should have the same lubrication properties for the pump. Some oils like kerosene don't lube the pump well and may cause it to fail. If you haven't.. check out "John McK 47" on ewetoob he did a great series on these. The videos are a bit old but still very good. I put one in my brothers poorly insulated, drafty two-car garage. It takes the chill off on a windy day and does a great job on a calm day. Your shop should do well with it.

Been seeing these around more and more . Seems straightforward

Hello Fitzee, thanks for the review of this little heater. I currently use a woodstove, but this could be a good backup. Take care and stay safe 👍

I heat 900sq ft detached shop with propane heater. Last year I wired a wifi thermostat inline so I can monitor the heat from a phone app. I turn it up a little before I go to the shop so its nice and warm when I get there. I had figure out the "C" constant power wire to keep the wifi thermostat running. I pulled the 24V from the transformer in the propane control panel. Works great. I never considered a Diesel heater such as this but I am glad you put this together to show the options. You make my head spin with the C vs F temps. I keep forgetting where you are!! I'm in Virginia USA.

Yes saw them on a couple in Alaska they use it in there chicken coop.So thinking on my garage as well thank you for sharing well done sir Tony

I’ve recently learned about Vevor. I’m very happy about their products so far.

I Also live in a cold climate (Bemidji MN) whenever I need a vent/hole in the shop , besides a cover to stop the wind ,I stuff a piece of closed cel foam rubber in the hole for insulation. Then just pull out when in use. Enjoy your videos, thx Randy

Those are great little heaters

I have the same pattern aluminum garage doors that I painted last summer. I bought a Vevor inspection camera which is great.

Great tip 👍 I was thinking about getting one myself 🤔

The best way to increase the efficiency of these diesel heaters is to do exhaust heat recovery. Checkout video by D&S Farm NS: Diesel heater upgade 200% more efficient

Great little heater you have there. Good to see it working smoothly. I am amazed how much fuel costs up in the Great White North. Works out to about $6 U.S. for diesel. Keep us updated on how it works out for you.

I’m surprised how well it works in such a large shop Fitzee with snow outside to it’s doing a fine job all things considered pretty impressive 👍

I gotta just say your dialect is awesome. If lived-in namibia , germany and england and extensively travelled the uk. Your dialect is all them combined. Pretty cool!

I just installed one in my shop, about the same size as yours with 11 foot ceilings, insulated. It does take a while to bring the temp up but it will bring the temp up from 43f to 57f and hold it while the temps are dropping outside at night. Sometimes I'll use my propane jet heater to preheat the shop, don't like to leave that one on full time as it's loud and stinky. You'll need about a 15amp 12v power supply to run this off the wall, anything lower and it doesn't seem to be able to get the glow plug going. Seems like a decent enough product if it's reliable long term.

I have that exact heater sitting in its box in my shop..waiting for camping season

I have one of those but the cube size, built a shelf on wall with a giant hole in the middle and ran the exhaust outside, got a 12 volt power supply from amazon cheap.

I've actually been watching videos from another CC about that very same diesel heater. Been looking into getting it, need a warm workshop for the winters.

Very cool 🤙 I got lucky my 40×40 has heated floors. It heats well

I like the intro music 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼😎

Very interesting machine

For all costs considered to buy and run this unit I'll stick with electric heaters, I warm up my shop with a propane unit for a few minutes and electric heater takes over from there to maintain the temperature. Shop is 36' X 18' with 7 1/2' ceiling, 15+ years and still good. I'm in the process of putting a woodstove in my woodshop now 32' X 18' and I think that'll be fine as I can burn waste wood as fuel. Good video as usual and look forward to more.

Hi Fitzee, I have a very similar setup in my garage (500 square foot) My heater is just a cheap no name one. Only thing I modified I changed a soft fuel hoses to a hard nylon one so its not pulsating and cavitating. It should make the pump more efficient and extend its lifetime.

I like those heaters I had those in my tractor when I was driving otr. Great for that small space but I wouldn't expect it to heat an 800sf garage maybe 2 or 3 units but fuel isn't cheap.

Hi! I use the same Vevor diesel heater. I have connected fumes output to copper (phi - 28mm) pippes to use warm from fumes. Remember, never disconnect car battery from the diesel heater until it cool dwn. When you turn off the heater, interior fan must to work some minutes after oil burning. When you disconnect hot unit from battery carbon deposit and tar will seal filament inside the heater. I have destroyed my Vevor filament in this way.

I have the 8K version that has the tank separate from the heater. When the heater is off, simultaneously press and hold both the up and down buttons should put the pump in prime mode. Release the buttons to stop the prime. Mine has about 6 feet of fuel line and I have let it run out of fuel so priming is important otherwise it will error for fails to ignite. Also the small intake hose and filter should also be plumbed outside for the heater to get fresh air and may be the reason for the fuel smell.

a friend just got one for his workshop. Im doing a short bus/motorhome conversion and I picked up a China knockoff of another heater for it. It does air and hotwater with a lill 2.5gal reservoir tank inc. in the unit

I was gonna suggest turning the chain so it faces the top. That way you don't catch and damage your hoses. lol

Tony, thanks for the review. If you take the combustion air from outside you might lose the diesel odor.

I've got an 1800sq ft shop (12ft ceilings) that's really well insulated. My heater (same as yours) will get the whole place warm. Not instantly, but... I need to figure out a better exhaust routing. As someone else below said, get an old cast iron radiator and push the exhaust through that, THEN to the outside. Doubles its effective heat output.

If you're smelling fumes you may have a cross contamination of the combustion chamber. Easy to start pumping out carbon monoxide. Put a detector in the shop just in case. That stuff starts creeping in on you and puts you out quiet like. You get real slow and stupified, feels like your in a fog and takes forever to get anything done. Was working in my shop heating with and old kerosun heater laying on the floor changing a transmission. Worked all day till 2 in the morning could get anything accomplished. Finally started feeling real sick and went outside. 10 minutes of fresh air and finally figured out what was going on. A little bit more and I think I would have passed out and been dead... I was lucky. Trust me you won't know it's happening till it's too late. Be safe.

Raise your door where a 2x4 or 2x6 etc can fit in the full length of the door while it is up & sitting ON the board, then cut a hole IN the board instead of the door

I just picked one of these up. I haven't had a chance to hook it up yet.

I've been tossing the idea around of one of these for a while now, just haven't pulled the trigger. My garage is the same dimensions as yours but I'm limited to 50 amps so the electric heater at full power, lights and 5hp compressor kicking on is right at the threshold of kicking out the breaker.

I use one to heat our 160 Sq ft pig barn during winter, our overnight temperatures are typically in the 0* - 15*. It keeps it about 60* on the lowestest setting.

Good heater I ran 1 inch water pipe the length of my work shop hooked the exhaust through it acts like a radiator

That's a cute little heater. My cinderblock garage has no insulation whatsoever and the door is just thin aluminum. I can heat it with diesel, but I usually just use kerosene as my torpedo style heater will run on either one. The garage door opening is an odd size so no door fits it right and always has the top panel tilted inwards (It originally had a rolling style barn door). The torpedo is loud, but in as much as I'm usually out there by myself it isn't like I have to shout to anyone over it. Ah well, I never have to worry about ventilation, LOL!

Hope this doesn't mess up the top door seal when you raise the door. I'm sure you've taken this into account already. Those diesel heaters seem to have an excellent run time, much more efficient than torpedo heaters and no fumes. Nice project and review Tony!

I am running a diesel heater in my 700 sq. ft. shop and it won't quite do the trick. it will only maintain 52 degree is run wide open. I decided to block off the third stall with a roll of poly with a pulley system to raise and lower it if need be. Now he heaters will heat two stalls no problem. I can turn it down to about 1/2 throttle now.

Well, I had bullet heaters and got rid of them and installed electric ones, but they were 110v. I have found that while a heater such as that gives quick heat, the real downside was always getting fuel. I thought why put a hole in the garage door, I was thinking above the grinder, so the doors can be opened on the fly without moving the thing. At least you still have the electric heaters, that is a real plus.

Funny. I’m in town and I just got one of these a few weeks ago as well. And I did exactly what you just did, cut a hole through the garage door, welded up a piece of pipe to run the exhaust through, I don’t have a cap or a flap on it yet I just stuffed some insulation in there when I’m not using it. I like your idea of cap, I’ve got an inch sticking out as well, so I think I’ll make one. Out of the box mine was pretty junky, one of the bolts had fallen out the bottom, and the four clips holding the cover on were falling off one of them was assembled wrong. First time I used it the control panel fell off, the two sided tape let go. Remote never did work. But, it did give off a surprising amount of heat. Though I couldn’t get it to heat the garage much more than 12-13°. I used kerosene in mine, as I had four litres of it on hand. The main hose leaked a little so I was getting fumes as well. I tightened the clamp a bit and it’s fine.

Smell goes away after a tank or 2 of fuel. Also best to bring the combustion air tube outside also. What's happening is your creating negative air pressure in the shop. Thats sucking in the cold air from any gaps anywhere. I also find you get a better burn. I would not take the cold air in from the intake side for the actual heat. That's moisture from the cold and snow you will have water dripping all over your doors. And yes I have 3 so I know what I'm talking about. Best xmas presents to myself thank u vevor

Hi Tony. Looks like a good heater for the shop. Nice that you don't have to have a big stove pipe running through the shop and up into a chimney outside, like you would need with a wood stove. Here in the States, you can buy red colored diesel, for off-road use, which doesn't have road taxes added to it, so it's cheaper. Do you have a similar system in your area? Maybe it would burn waste oil or a mix to save some of the fuel cost.

HaHa I did the same. Just push the on/off button and let it do it's thing. It goes through it's modes and works. Same for turning it off. I've been heating the garage with propane. I have a feeling this will be cheaper.

I think a true test would be if the heater was drawing its air from outside. Like you said, if you are welding or even rattle canning a small bracket it would create fumes. It would be harder to heat -10 air to 18 degrees than 10 to 18 degrees.

As with any heater that burns stuff, get a CO and CO2 air quality meter or alarm. Just a few bucks but prevents bad things in case of leaks.

The little air intake with the filter on it should rightfully be Piped outside as well. That'll fix your stale air concerns.

Just a thought fitze. Grab an old cieling fan and put leave on low speed. It will distribute the heat evenly and it will get rid of any cold corners and wick up any moisture that might accumulate. Just an observation from Saskatchewan Canada -38 celcious lol

Good video you need to rotate your exhaust silencer so it's verical keeping the little hole at the bottom of it

I have one under the back seat of my pickup, gets the cab up to temperature in ten minuets.

Your accent sounds exactly like Dan Danowski of Ingrams Water and Air (an HVAC supplier, and they have tech videos on their site). That's pretty awesome.

32 COATS OF HAND RUBBED LACQUER!! Oooh, flow indicators. YEAH! 😂

No such thing as an 8Kw, they're only made in 2kW and 5kW (different size burn chambers), I suspect the 8kW was originally a typo, but more power sells! Those heaters are a copy of the Eberspacher truck cab heater, now long out of any design protection. I have two of the standalone units, one for my machine shop and the other for the main workshop. They're generally very good units, but can suffer from severe carbon build up if left running at low load for long periods. I run mine in power mode, not thermostat, so they're at 100% all the time. If it gets too warm, I just shut them down (let them go through their shutdown routine). If you know someone with an exhaust gas analyser, it's not a bad idea to tweak the fuel pump rate and fan rpm for the cleanest burn (information online on how to access the hidden menu).

i just got one for my 850 sq ft garage it works great but im making a sand battery out of a old water heater and going to mount it to it with the sand battery i'll recover all of the waisted exhaust heat and it will keep my shop warm during the overnight so i wont have to run the heater 24 hrs a day

The combustion air intake needs to be outside, that might be where your smell is coming from as it might be occasionally backpuffing.

Hi Fitzee, i have a similar diesel heater, i would seal where the exaust pipe is clamped to heater with heat cement/paste Also have the air intake outside i believe this helps the air quality Good luck Bronx NY.

8 kw works out to around 27000 BTU For old school types

These look like a great option for people that only have 120v 15 or 20amp service to their garages kind of makes electric heat impossible to use and run anything else.

Another convert!!! I have been running one for a while now. "All dem ole VW bugs are diesel aren't dey?) LOL at Ray Joy. You need the high amp hour rating of the battery to get the glow plug heated up at the start, after that the draw is very low. I use a 1 amp battery maintainer (from princesses A) to keep the battery up. I also have a furnace to heat my house 😉 So have experimented with red fuel with great success. People on the internet have used chip fat and everything... The heaters like to be run flat out, otherwise they have a tendency to carbon up. Chinese diesel heaters, Blair likes em too!

you might find when you put the cap back on the hole in the door that it ices up with the moist air escaping from the garage and you might not be able to get it off again.

You should get a CO alarm that gives a readout of actual CO.

Should have your air intake come from the outside instead of sucking up the air in shop and blowing out exhaust. I always take off the heater end cap to let more air flow too. On those "portable" units I found they have a different ecu than the older non "portable" parking heaters. The ecu's could be adjusted by fan speeds and pulse rates(pass number was 1866 on my heaters) ,I have mine set at 6.0 pulse rate .I am heating several small garages and my weight room /man cave .

I have a similar heater in a workshop half the size of yours and around my Citroen SM restoration. I did away with ALL the plumbing and move the heater around the workshop where I need it. I have a 220v to 12v dc transformer cable tied to the case and plug it into a wall socket. The only fumes you get is on start up, when hot it’s fine. In a camper or truck cab you would most definitely need the plumbing and it would dangerous not to do so. You get 8kw from the heater plus another 8kw from the exhaust. Why waste it through your door. Try it I did and I am still here at 79 years old. Back to your film

The initial start up when they're new is Pretty nasty smell and a little bit of smoke from the exhaust pipe And whatever they coat them with to keep them shiny looking.

SUPER GOOD I LOVE..-

Most likely it was heating up the igniter. Once that heated up it started pumping fuel. Having the intake inside you are creating negative air in the shop. It will pull cold air in from somewhere to make up the difference. The btu rating is 27,297 btu’s. Where house furnaces at 100,000 older ones being 80% efficient for 80,000 so 1/3 the capacity of a home furnace.

Great idea and nice job of repurposing your stuff.

The new unit smell will burn off after 1 tank of fuel. But the fuel spillage will stink!! I settled on a pair of 1.5 gallon push button plastic fuel jugs and have not spilled a drop in 3 seasons.

It's interesting how these diesel heaters work. Decades ago, I stayed at a caravan park that had a diesel hot water heater.

We use to heat with kerosene, this yr. We cant get it here so we got one of the cheapest ones they got. It doesn't even have the remote just a pust button on an off. It will heat our house easy and here even if we could find it, diesel is over a dollar a gallon cheaper than kerosene.

It's air intake is supposed to be outside also.

Will your exhaust port clear the door frame when you open the door?

The fumes may be the burning of thinner vapor being burned.

Quick question your pipe through garage door, have you checked the to make sure your can open the door without it hitting door frame.

I think it be real nice in a camper

You have to connect a charger to the battery or it is going to run out of power and fry the electronics if there is not enough power for proper shutdown😊

The weather is opposite to yours here in Queensland Australia with temperatures in the mid 30's C and high humidity and a lot of rain. Not to mention the cyclone (hurricane) that just hit further North to us, which didn't affect us much here.

Theres a guy on youtube that passed the exhaust through an old cast Iron home rad as the exhaust heat is wasted big difference in heat output. No muffler needed on outside...no muffler needed the rad takes care of noiseand exhaust going through door or wall is just warm

Turn the flap you were going to put in their into a lever flap so you can control it from the inside..

if its anything like a webasto heater, if you dont let it wind down on its own, itll build up soot on the basket inside and youll have to replace it. on a webasto, thats like $500 to replace

Nice little Heater. #STAYSAFE #PHILLYPHILLY 🇺🇸

As others have mentioned, GET A CO MONITOR! Might save your life! Also, you maybe could fit a filter on the fan intake on the rear. I bet you're going to find the electric heaters less costly to operate though.

Actually, when you shut them down prematurely. By disconnecting the power, it's not going to clog it up. What it'll do is it'll overheat the CPU and fry it. But don't worry, it's not a throw away. The new CPU is only about 35 bucks.

I don't have anywhere as large a garage (400sq.ft), I heat mine with an air heat pump. I think the biggest heat waster in my otherwise well insulated garage is that garage port. I reallly dislike it to be honest. steals space in the roof where I could have shelves, It doesn't seal well and gets cold despite having insulation, lots of thermal bridges. Been thinking of replacing iit with double doors.

I put a flap on the inside of mine and no issues

Hopefully you have enough clearance on that external pipe to clear everything when you open the door.

With what diesel cost in Newfoundland Doesn’t seem very economical compared to propane, The cheapest Is $4 a gallon for diesel in Connecticut, USA.

What about a aerosol can cap that fits.

Looking at that roll up door, all your heat will be lost. You could do 500sq if your shop was well insulated, running on high.

One thing comes to mind... did you check if the door still opens? Might stick too far out it catches the door seals or hits the framing. Where you put it in the middle it should have more clearance but was just a thought

Nifty noodles. Could you have used a 12V battery charger to provide the power for it rather than the battery?

Three weeks ago I also tested a 8 kw diesel heater in my workshop. I have about the same floor space (13m x 6m), but about double the height. So it didn't worked out for me. I would need two or three of this heaters. Have you tested consumption? The 8kw heater I used burned 0,47 liters per hour on full power.

A carbon monoxide monitor is a must when operating one of these. 'CO' is odourless and colorless, you won't know you are going out, once you are out death isn't long after. According to a paramedic friend of mine, the worst bit, from his perspective of attending an incident, is that you crap yourself as you lose muscle control. You're a big lad, Fitzee, think of those poor paramedics.

Vevor just sent me a coupon for the same heater , Diesel here is #3.80 a gallon , appreciate the info Fitz

Can't beat the BTUs from oil heat.