I contacted Berryman's because I couldn't find B12 anywhere, including Walmazon. They sent me a case of 12 free of charge. They also corrected the sitch where Walmart was continually out of it. Berryman's Corporate rocks!

With one cylinder being super clean it usually means some antifreeze is leaking in through the head gasket and it gets steam cleaned.

The experiment likely unstuck the oil control rings and allowed them to expand and do their job. The hint may have been the increased friction you felt when initially turning the engine over by hand. You didn't make a big insurance nightmare of the broken taillight. Thanks for being such a good human.

thanks for making these videos. I have a Tacoma (2TR-FE) that has been burning a quart every 300 miles for a long time. Tried many different things, and was about to have the engine rebuilt when I decided to try this as my final effort. I followed your method (almost) exactly. its been about 2 weeks and almost 700 miles and I've had no noticeable oil loss, and the oil has stayed much cleaner as well. thanks again, looking forward to your update.

Chemtool is great stuff. Used it in a 5.0 EFI Fox Body for over 30 years. Kept my TB and injectors wicked clean. That motor got me to almost 350,000 miles AND IT STILL RUNS!

Old mechanics have been using B12 chemtool for years, on a hot soak, for just such problems. Best stuff out there.

My dad was GM line mechanic for years. He would often say, "B12 ought to be good to drink, because it's good for everything else!"

Yessir the curse of high efficiency low tension rings

Fantastic video. My 2012 Audi Q5 2.0L turbo was burning 1 quart of syn 5w-30 oil every 400 miles and the vehicle only had 65k miles on it! Had a shop check the turbo and that wasn't the problem. The fix was similar to yours... and due entirely to your video: Process: Removed spark plugs and drained oil, added B12 to each cylinder, let it sit for a day (and frequently topped off), boroscoped (plenty of carbon on the piston head and could see oil on the cylinder walls at first), hand turned the engine 90 degrees, repeated the process once a day over a 4 day period. Drained the engine of B12 and replaced with fresh oil and filter. B12 fluid was jet black. Drove the vehicle 25 miles on fresh oil. Smoke was incredible. I'm sure folks thought the car was on fire! Drained and replaced the oil again and replaced the filter. Yup, again oil was jet black. End result: The car now has over 3500 miles on it since the second flush (3rd fill) and it's used less than 1/2 a quart of oil. Fantastic. Cost from beginning to end: One gallon of B12, 3 oil changes (original + 2 more) and 3 filters (original filter + 2more). Cheap and very effective fix. Piston heads clean and apparently so are the ports on the bottom scraper ring that were likely causing the problem. Thanks again!!👍👍👌

I have done the same thing many times with my customers vehicles that failed the state required smog test. It has worked every time. I have no idea how much oil consumption has changed, since I never see most of these customers again. From what I can tell, the oil control rings just get gummed up, and fail to work properly. This condition is mainly found with old ladies who drive very slowly around town, and never run on the freeway for very long. I usually just send the Barryman's in as a top engine cleaner, as it is quicker in commercial operation. I have rarely done a full soak, and when I did, I relubricated the upper cylinder with engine oil before starting the engine. I thought you might have hurt the cylinders with a dry start, however, after seeing your after-actin shots, I can clearly see a beautiful cross hatch pattern!!! Most Excellent!!! From what I can see of your oil pattern on the piston heads, I would say that you need some valve stem seals, or perhaps new valve guides, when doing your next valve job. I think your bottom end is good to go!!! Try using some ATF in the engine oil, 500 miles before your next oil change. ATF also cleans piston rings, as ATF has lots of detergents that help removing such things. ATF also makes a great engine flush, but I always fear flushing an unfamiliar engine, as the ATF treatment removes a lot of internal engine gunk and might plug the oil intake screen to the oil pump. That's why I recommend using ATF to top off before the next oil change, as you use less than a quart, and change it before too many miles have accumulated. Proper oil change intervals never require flushes!!! If I slip and go beyond 5,000 miles, the next oil change is done early, at about 2,500 miles, to insure maximum cleaning action from the fresh oil change. I have never let any engine run past 10,000 miles!!! I don't care what the oil or engine manufacturer says!!! I can afford oil and filter, every 5K miles, but an engine rebuild is going to be a bit much for me, at my age, So I take care of basic maintenance, and don't have issues!!! My 2002 Tacoma has 165,000 miles, and still has 170 PSI per cylinder with 5% max cylinder leak down. So, I think good maintenance pays!!! Now if I could just get my IAC's (Idle Air Control) to last that long, as I am on my second one @ $245.00 dollars for an OEM part!!! The only real complaint I have on the 2.4L engine. Good work on your test. A good test is worth 10,000 expert opinions!!! LOL!!! Tim

An old mechanic told me to put a quart of kerosene in the oil and drive it around for a while. He was old at the time, and I was about 16 years old, and now am 75, so you can tell that his knowledge was very old. My old junker had a 292 v8, and the return passages in the heads were clogged, making it a true smoker. I did it, and the next day, when I took off the valve covers, I had a super clean head! I drove that clunker for another five years or so, and it never burned oil again.

Great video! I hope you have solved your problem. I noticed that most of the liquid (oil) was pooling to the back of the pistons. Maybe the next treatment could include jacking up the rear of the car to help level the pistons before adding the B12. Thanks for posting.

I’ve used Berryman to clean the egr passages on a Honda Accord v6 and never had issues with it, great stuff

Berryman B12 carb cleaner and Chemtool bulk soak were the only products we used for carburetor service and rebuild throughout the 80s well into the 90s. Nothing else cleaned absolutely as well.

That was pretty impressive. Look forward to seeing the next video! There are so many people that have this problem. Really well handled on the accident. Too many sue happy people.

I did this on a 1.6 Kia engine. Loosely thread the sparkplugs back in, to stop foreign contamination and evaporation. Don't start the engine with the oil contaminated with Berryman's - it puts the bearings at risk. Dump the oil and change the filter before starting. Fog the cylinders with light machine oil before putting the sparkplugs back in. The engine doesn't want to start because the cylinders are dry, causing a loss of compression. This resolved the oil consumption issues in the Kia.

I wish someone had told me how to do this long ago when I had a 2000 Toyota Corolla. Same problem, thanks very much for completely showing step by step. You're a good man.

Can’t wait for some longer term results.

Hallelujah!! Great work Dave, thanks for your persistence. It’s good to know that there is a solution out there.

Hi Dave, my I suggest checking your PCV and maybe adding a catch can to verify if the engine is not ingesting oil trough the intake. If the rings are stuck it may cause too much blowby. Good luck.

Great video, Ben! Nothing beats B-12! My classic '89 Toyota Camry sat for the last 4 months through the winter waiting for its new Collector's Plate to arrive, and when I finally started it back up, it was running rough as all getout with carbon poofing out of the exhaust pipe every time it missed and stuttered. The car had just under 1/4 tank of gas out of the 15.9 gallons it can hold in it, so it was the perfect time to head on down to O'Reilly's to grab the last 3 cans of Berryman's on their shelf (which was exactly how many I needed for the trick I was about to pull off). Total cost: 20 bucks. Here's what happened: O'Reilly's is 2 blocks from our home. My plan was to go there first, grab the B-12 I'd need to do the job, then continue up HWY 99 at a steady 45 MPH to get the shopping done. 2 cans went into the tank immediately, the rear bumper was bounced for around a minute or so to get it mixed in thoroughly with the 3[ish] gallons left in the tank, and we were on our way. Naturally, it ran like complete crap missing and stuttering and farting carbon for most of the 3 miles it took to get there (I could see the poofs of black smoke in the rearview mirror), but 2 blocks from the store it started to even out some. After we finished shopping and headed back home, it surged a little at first then smoothed right out and ran like a champ. I plan to run it like this until the fuel warning light pops on, at which point I'll add the last can of Chemtool and top the tank off. After that, it'll be good to go again! =D

I watched 6 of the steps last night and was VERY curious as to how this was going to turn out and BAM, new upload today. Great series and I am sure will help many people with this issue for years to come. Well done and documented.

Been following up actually just watched your last video of 3 months back, came to you channel hoping for the follow up video, shocked to find an update 2 hours ago 😂 yippee, let's watch!

Dave - I know you will but please keep us posted. This is amazing...As you know I have been following this series since the start! This would be amazing if it continues to work. Cant wait for an update! THANK YOU SO MUCH for doing this.

Awesome video Dave, I would've hit those cylinders with some compressed air to remove some of those carbon particles, before starting but other than that I like your method.

Glad to see it worked… I always add a little after oil changes and always into the gas… Including mystery oil ! 😊

Dave, I appreciate your videos. Congrats on the improvement.

Looks like something finally is working! Great job.

I think the next logical step could be getting an oil analysis to see if you’re getting any metal in the oil after doing that treatment. That would tell if doing stuff like this is truly viable.

Wow that was a great vid, and it cleaned up ur engine. Berrymans needs to comp u for all this. This is an excellent promotional video for them. Plus Derek ,Vicegrip Garage is also promoting Berrymans. No wonder there's a supply problem, lol

I liked the genuine reaction from you. Keep up the report

So loving your experiment/results! Keeping your methods so consistent is key. I'm at point with 2006 Tundra at 101 5K that injector swap, BC Gasket Kit on Bank 2, and PCV replace. B12 next if the oil keeps getting dirty prematurely. Great job. Subscribed.

Well this was an interesting turn of events. Keep us posted on the oil consumption Vs miles travelled.

Holy smokes ! Great progress! I plan on mimicking a treatment on my own car.

Berryman giving it the old italian tune up! VGG

I've been following this series too, mirroring your steps each time on my Peugeot which is using a ltr of oil every 1000km. Same success as you so far. Going to see if I can find B12 in Norway and give this a try! Thanks for your videos :)

I was watching many of your videos prior to this.. had a mr2 1zzfe and it burned a lot of oil. Mmo, seafoam, gearbox oil . Tried it all and never worked, if I still had the car I would try this. Glad you sorted the issue.

I would have let the B12 soak without turning the engine over the first time, observing if the levels drop. Then turning it over with more B12. Finally putting some oil into the cylinders, turning the engine over, before starting it the first time with all new oil. The B12 did indeed wash the cylinder walls dry.

I stumbled across this video by accident but I'm glad I did. I have a 97 corolla dx 1.8 with the same problem so I tried this 2 weekends ago and I'm very satisfied with the results. I was going through a quart a week and now I'm sitting at around 1/3 of a quart in 2 weeks.

I did the same thing on a scion 2.4 it fixed it. I did it with the engine hot and let it soak until it cooled down. Treated it twice in one day. 4 hour soak each time from full hot. Changed the oil no more oil consumption.

I loved your reaction, when you saw the dipstick at the end. Great video.

what a great series! If on your next update your oil level hasn't gone down much... I will try this on my 2014 passat.. burns about a quart every 2 weeks..

Been using B12 in my vehicles for years. Great stuff.

Absolutely Amazing! Great video, glad it worked out for you. Next vid, tinting the windows, new wheels and suspension upgrade. 😁

Have been using Berrymans B12 for over a decade. They have several products. Work great.

This worked great on my 2013 4 cylinder Venza! Was burning 1 quart roughly every 500 miles. Did the treatment and consumption is down to about a quart every 3000 miles. Can't thank you enough for posting this!

Before I even watch the video - I admire your persistence! Thought you gave up on a chemical cure?

A few years ago I had a 1996 Ranger pickup with 200K miles on the 2.3L 4cyl and it burned oil but had no leaks. Never saw smoke but I could smell it and I was putting a quart of oil in it every 1000 miles. After doing my first oil change it used another quart after 1000 miles, so I put in a can of Rislone smoke stop and topped off the oil level. After that it barely used half a quart by the time I was changing oil again at 4000 miles. Sadly it was so rusted out after being in Minnesota all its life I had to scrap it.

Nice description, execution and explanation. Great video.

I'm so glad I came across your channel. I did the same to my Kia Forte 2014 and my oil consumption has dropped dramatically, before I needed to had oil after 1000 miles from oil change, but now I think I went to 2500 miles after oil change. I will recommend your channel to everyone one.

This worked perfectly for me on a 2006 Rav4 with the 2AZ-FE engine 118k miles Historically this engine used about 1 Qt in around 300-400 miles since about 90k miles, last year I followed the same process as below but used seafoam (per one of your videos too) instead of B12, this gave me 500-600 miles per 1 Qt which was a good improvement. I modified your process slightly by adding Liqui Moly 2037 Engine Flush to my oil prior to changing, ran for 15 minutes, let the engine cool then added the B12 to the cylinder for an overnight soak, next day flushed the oil with cheap oil, then drained and refilled with Liqui Moly 20438 - Molygen SAE 0W-20. its been 600 miles with zero oil consumption. One word of warning using the Berryman B-12 Chemtool, I've read of people running their engine with the B12 in the oil and it destroying the bearings, with this in mind I did not run my engine after the overnight soak, just drained and flushed, so I cant confirm this issue, but for me it was not worth the risk. Thank you so much DIY Dave, your demos and ideas have fixed my engine so much so that I may not need to top up the oil until the next change in 6k miles.

Hi Dave, Ive been watching this series primarily because my daughter has a 2012 Audi A4 2.0T. Notorius for stuck piston rings. The car was burning through a quart of oil every 360 miles. About 4 weeks ago I did a 3 day piston soak similar to what you have been doing. I used Berryman's "Professional" Chem Dip. The car has now been driven 800 miles and has not burned a drop of oil. I am extremely surprised at the results and thinking the problem may be fully fixed. If your still having issues with the Toyota give the Berryman's Professional Chem Dip a try.

Keep a check on it and I hope that you didn't have any trouble doing it great job dude 👍😎

Great video man, glad to see it go viral. A lot of good information. Saving this for future if I ever get to have any issues like this. Cheers 🥂

Your hard work paid off.

Great results ! I have had similar results using a 20% ratio added In the oil of HyperLube, with also great results. My vehicle(s) 4.6l ford was using about 1qt of oil every 1k miles and after keeping the 20% Hypelube they (actually of them) only used a very small amount of oil at the 5k oil change interval. Seems todo a good job of keeping the rings & ring grooves very clean. Good product !

I've been running B12 in outdoor power equipment for a long time. Good stuff.

Nice video for demonstration & conclusion!🤩🤩

B12 used to have instruction on the side for use in Fuel System and Crankcase for decades. I think if I remember correctly it used to recommend 1/2 pint of B12 Chemtool per 4 quarts of crankcase capacity. You would not drive it but you would let it idle with no load before oil change for 20-30 minutes at 2000 rpms. I used to use 1 pint per 4 quarts capacity in really dirty engines. This was around 1991 or 1992. I never had any issues. I did it to many friends cars as well. I did not start doing piston soaks though on non-siezed engines until about 2001. When I would replace platinum or double platinum plugs I would pour some B12 in and let things soak then crank the engine latter reinstall the plugs. I was working at General Motors and a lot of cars where having oil consumption issues and piston carbon issues. It just seemed like cheap insurance every 50K miles to do this. Likewise 1 tank of fuel before oil changes I would toss in a bottle of fuel injector cleaner. Again not solving any issues more just trying to prevent any. Slowly more and more companies European, Domestic and Japanese started to develop issues with oil consumption, sludge and carbon.

Shocked… I may try this for the mr2 spyder oil burning 1zzfe. Please keep us posted!

Best B12 commercial. The build-up was great! Just kidding, great to see improvement!

My brother you’re still working on that car, you have to be the most persistent person I ever seen. That’s good for you brother that’s a good quality to have

Thank you so much Dave, excellent series! I think you have given may of us out here some hope. I came across your channel looking for a solution to the same issue on my 2009 Toyota Matrix with a 2AZ FE engine. My engine's oil consumption is not as sever as yours but it still is concerning (1 qt/1200 miles). However, before I try Berrymans I am going to use Seafoam in the crank case before each oil change (3K miles) and see if that works. It is a lttle milder. I worry that Berrymans could damage the crank case seals. You now have one more subscriber. Please keep us posted.

I worked in the auto business for 45 years, sold many Berryman's products. Zero complaints for any of their products. Can't say this for many of the other products manufactured by others.

I admire your persistence. It did pay off. Great video. Thanx

Thanks so much for this experimental video. It's so inspiring and educative

Berryman is a great product. Been using it close to 30 years now.

Wonderful results and Congratulations for your persistence! Glad to see how you demonstrated the proper procedure for using this product, for the benefit of your loyal viewers! Now many of them will emulate your lead and begin restoring scores of tired motors to their full potential! BTW is this a good time to try some Lucas fuel treatment to the gas tank? Given your high mileage, that's my advice. Worked well for my 97 Volvo @310K km

That's incredible, you made a great presentation.

8th gen corolla is one of the best toyota out there, I'm glad you didn't give up on it.

it would be interesting to see if this changed compression.

The oil pooling ontop of the pistons is a sign that your valve stem seals are leaking. As the engine warmed up the blue smoking decreased significantly. While your piston rings may not be sealing as well as they should if they had failed your vehicle would be smoking under all running conditions. The treatment possibly mixed with the oil and softened the valve stem seals to reduce the oil leaking.

Glad it appears to have worked. I would have done a flush of the cylinders to remove that gunk and debris after the treatment along with an oil/filter change prior to the 20 minute drive. Also, in an attempt to clean up what is still left on the pistons, toss a can of that B12 in the fuel tank, see if that burns out those last remnants. 👍🏻

The Kia may not care what oil you put in but those VWs behind you ABSOLUTELY do!

My jaw dropped. That's excellent results 😃👍

Working on my son's TC tonight. I will keep you updated with the results once we complete the 24 hours period. Great video!! thanks for taking the time, step by step.

The key to using B12 as a gas additive and save money while doing good for your engine is to use inexpensive gasoline and a can of B12 as the additive cleaning package every other tank to once a month. Using it every tank is not necessary unless your engine has some specific issue you're trying to fix. Using B12 in this way is how to save money over buying high priced decent gas that has a pretty good additive package (such as Shell). B12 is still a better additive than Shell's Nitrogen additive package as B12 is a dedicated cleaner that's proven, even more so than Mystery oil Lucas and SeaWeed. FUN FACT; B12 is one of the few gasoline additives that actually ignites when flame is put to it. The rest put the flame out.

I've user chemtool for over 50 years on everything from final parts prep befpre assembly of surfaces, nothing even get's close to it's cleaning power ! also good in fuel tank. put a can in a 1/4 tank and feel the difference ! Great Stuff !

I own 2001 Corolla with oil burning issue as well. I suspect that sometimes if i don't warm up the car in the morning (specially in winter) there is more oil loss when piston slap noise is louder which kinda disappears after engine have warmed up, that slap contributes to some oil passing to burning chamber and i lose more oil that way. Piston slap is when there is a bigger gap between cylinder walls and pistons. When the engine sits overnight rings & piston shrink plus if the engine has some wear there is even more lose. When the engine is warmed that gap will be smaller which will translate to less oil passing through the rings. I'm finding if i drive with mostly low rpm in town i loss less oil while a short free drive (higher rpm) cause more oil burned. Keep up the good work!

B-12 is good stuff. You can also use it to wipe the yellow off of headlights. Caution: one pass only using a blue paper shop towel saturated with B-12. Follow up with some Meguires plastic polish to seal it up. Works like a champ on most headlights.

I have the 2003 Pontiac Vibe and I think it has the same engine. It consumes oil but I don't track it. My engine has over 310,000 miles on it so I may give this procedure a shot. Thanks for making the video.

That's pretty cool ! Thanks for upload.

I can’t wait to try this out. I’ve been burning the same amount of oil over the same distance on my Mazda 3.

I can attest through B-12. I have a friend who has Mistubishi. It's a 1989 or thereabouts. He had check engine light. Had various mechanics replace plugs, tune the engine spent hundreds and the light wouldn't go out. This was a several years back. His car inspection was rolling round and he ran across this Berryman-12. After he added the can drove around a bit not knowing what to expect. The check engine light went out and till this day has never come back on . The vehicle has 200k plus miles on it. After that? I start using it myself after each oil change for good measure 😌

Bravo Dave! I’m so confident that B12 worked and yes I’ve used 2 cans of B12 myself as 1 treatment. 1 can for hot soak with engine warmup, and 1 can for cold soak with engine was cold. And I also put in some ATF transmission fluid in each cylinders at the end, about 1/2 ounces in each cylinder to help lubricate the piston wall and final stripping off the left over carbon in the cylinder before starting the car. (ATF can strip off carbon deposits that’s had been loosened by B12). U don’t need much, just 1/2 ounce is good enough or u can skip the ATF if u don’t feel safe with it. That’s small amount won’t hurt anything since u r gonna change the oil anyway. Great video Dave! Hope to see your follow up video about the oil consumption after B12 treatment and remember, it may take 2 or 3 treatments to fully cure oil consumption and each manufacturer’s engine is different so it might have different results.

I followed this to a T for my 2010 scion xb that was burning 1.5 quarts every 350 miles or so. Now at 700 miles after doing this protocol and no oil loss. Thank you for explaining this in such a thorough way!

Wow!!! Great experiment ..and results!

I do a similar treatment to my Audi q5 every other oil change. When I purchased the vehicle, it was burning 1 qt every 350 miles. I dont turn the crank though until after it has sat for a couple hours. Currently I am not burning any oil. 5000 miles between oil changes and still pretty much at the full mark. B12 is a god send for most cars that have known issues with clogged oil rings

A great way using the original b12, not the one specified as specifically fuel injector cleaner, is to pull the spark plugs out, put between 3 and 4 oz into the top of each cylinder with the block temp around 130 F, and then put the spark plugs back for sealing purposes. Come back after after a few hours, remove the spark plugs again, check (use boroscope) to see how much fluid was lost, add a little bit if any cylinder does not have the entire top of the in piston covered, stuff a rag into each spark plug well (not into the cylinder!), crank the engine over 15-20 seconds. Remove rags, use a manual pump to remove all liquid from cylinders, replace plugs, start engine. Run it at idle (a conservative rpm under 2000 if it won't immediately idle well due to the garbage in the cylinder) for 5-10 minutes, then change the oil and filter. Use a cheaper oil, but not complete garbage. Change oil again (use good oil) after 500 miles (unless turns very dark before that). Check your oil burning. Should have decreased dramatically.

Thanks for the great videos. I have '97 Geo Metro with the same problem. Have tried several different potions so far, MMO, SF, etc, with no luck. Was going to yank the engine for new pistons & rings, but will try this procedure next.

Hey Dave, wet down one of those blue shop towels with B-12 and swipe those headlights once. Cleans them up nice.

I've tried a similar test on 2 Jeep 4.7s I had that used oil due to stuck rings. I switched them to synthetic oil for the high detergent to break it up as best I could, with some cleaner as well. One thing I found that made the difference was not just high RPM use, but high load use. You really want to heat the pistons up a ton. I would load up my trailer and go pull big grades with them and try to get the engine temp climbing and maintain for awhile. Seemed to work alright. Edit: if you do change oil visocity, my go-to oil burner "fixer" is 5w40 Rotella. Great oil, and seems to help. Subaru guys love it for some reason 🤔

That is really beyond amazing. Never ever seen a result this big using a chemical. Awesome. FYI, the distance between the dots is indeed by industry standard 1 liter with (almost) all cars, makes it easy to measure and add the right amount. Our engineers did think of that :) Please do keep up up to date!

New sub here! i love this series about the Corolla! please update us if this solved the consumption issue & hopefully some compression test. Can't wait!!!

Cool video. I saw a video by Mike Busch of Savvy Aircraft Maintenance and the topic was fixing low compression on aircraft engines. AVGAS is leaded fuel and the lead bromide builds up in the rings and cannot be dissolved like carbon from unleaded fuel. So, one way to try to force the lead out is by filling the cylinder with a solvent at the bottom of the compression stroke, installing the spark plugs, and pulling the engine through a compression stroke. If the valves are lapped and seated well, the solvent will be forced through the rings and hopefully mechanically remove the lead. I am going to soak the rings and leave them for a while. Then, I am going to do the ring wash like I described with the Berryman's or with Sea Foam, or maybe a stronger solvent. I am thinking it light work really well. Then you have to put oil in the cylinders and turn the engine over, since every bit of the lubrication will be washed off the cylinder walls.

B12 is a great product the extra oil your seeing on the pistons is the kerosene additives that didn't fully evaporate this is normal as the oil is slightly thinner in viscosity personally I would have driven a little while longer but great test and you really can't argue results

I am really glad it worked out for you! Every time you fill up the fuel tank pour in a bottle of cleaner to let the cleaning continue. Works great for cleaning injectors, intake valves (as long as it’s not direct injection), and to free stuck rings.

I used this video as a guide and did roughly this process on my Gen 2 Prius. The results have been phenomenal. Previous to the piston soak and hard drive my car was using 2 quarts oil every 3K miles. After piston soak with B-12 I used less than half a quart in the same 3K oil change interval. Amazing! Wish I had ran in to this process 80K miles ago. Thanks Dave!!! Much appreciation!

😮WOW! Amazing results!

Thank you for your content on oil burning. I used this trial with B12 on my 97 Honda CR-V. It's been almost 200 miles since I changed the oil and the blue exhaust smoke is only a small fraction of what it was. At idle the blue smoke was horrific. I'm excited to see the results as the clock ticks forward.