!Perform at your own risk! Previous video in this series: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/bpp9rM-S2d3Ufmw.html Entire oil burning experiment playlist: kzfaq.info/sun/PLS7Cti2LicYDtv1hFbz_dErQFGxnTgMCj

This channel is causing a shortage of Berrymans

Well from burning a quart every 300 miles to burning a quart every 1,000 miles...I'll take it as a win.

"As the Oil Burner Turns" This soap opera drama has me on the edge of my seat. Thanks for sharing!

The oil level might have dropped after the 20 minute high RPM highway run because the B12 additive burned off.

I believe a possible reason for this result is that your previous treatment unstuck one or two of the rings(indicated by how a couple cylinders still had oil buildup and the others did not during the bore scope in the previous video), and this latest treatment did not unstick any of the remaining stuck rings, leaving the consumption roughly the same. I would scope the cylinders again and look for oil buildup and compare that to the previous videos bore scope. If the cylinders that the oil settles on vs the ones that did not are the same, I think my theory above is likely. In this case, treating the problem cylinders till(or if?) the rings unstick may be the answer. If these rings never get unstuck, it could just be that they are shot, although the relatively great looking condition of your bores makes me think this is unlikely. The more I do research on this subject the more im convinced that the problem does not go away gradually, the results come when ring(s) finally unstick to the point were it can seal off the cylinder wall. The results Ive observed personally on my car and in countless threads/videos is some treatment improves the conditions eithr completely or partially to a significant degree, and then does not improve an inch. So in the case of the partial sudden improvement it must be 1-3 but not all of the rings getting unstuck. This is a great series of videos and IMO important as oil burning due to clogged rings affects nearly every 4cylinder engine made in the last 20 years to varying degrees for the same fundamental reasons. Yet the treatment for it is never documented in a consistent way, just spread across thousands of videos and online posts were users have anecdotes for single types of treatments with wildly varying effect. Good work and persistence, I look forward to all of these videos.

190k mile VW 2.0T which was burning a quart every 250 miles. Borescoped the cylinders and walls had little wear, diagnosed as carboned up oil control rings. Followed your procedure with one exception - I pulled the fuel pump relay and just ran starter for a few seconds between treatments. Car has gone 2,000 miles and consumed little to no oil, which is pretty remarkable given the mileage. I'm sure it will eventually degrade over more miles, but even if I have to do the treatment every 5-6k miles it's more than worth the time and cost of the procedure. THANK YOU for posting your videos on the subject, and GO NAVY.

I can’t help just looking at your project in hope to stop my oil burning to do thank for what you’re doing buddy

Great video! I do believe you are making progress. I do believe the oil will vaporize and lose viscosity over a period of time. Might be the "type of oil" or thickness. I'm thinking of doing a second treatment as well.

As of Feb ‘24, Valvoline is advertising a piston cleaning oil but it does say full effect is realized after 6 changes. So that may be another method to help sticking rings before they removed the oil holding crosshatch in the cylinder walls.

I’d be putting some smaller amounts of the treatment in the cylinders but using more regular rotations of the crank to try break up deposits. Maybe once per hour, with a small top up of the berrymans. I think the increase in mechanical movement of the pistons and rings would improve the effectiveness of the treatment. There’s a reason most engine/fuel treatments specify dilution in a certain amount of oil or fuel; it’s to allow the chemicals to have time to work incrementally in conjunction with the engines heating, cooling and running cycles.

I'm not quite as dedicated as you are to the upkeep of my 2 KIAs (2012 Sorento and 2023 Sportage). I just follow the Severe Schedule as closely as I can. You've got my respect, sir!

I LOVE what you are doing with this Corolla, man! I had a 1993 4AFE 1.6!… now I have a Subaru! Watching this one until the end!

Thanks for these videos. Very informative. Just pulled the cylinder head from my wife’s 2004 Saturn Ion. Bent valves from broken timing chain guides, creating slop in the chain. Replaced the valves and guides, timing chain kit and head gasket. Now have it all back together. Doing the Berryman’s treatment on it now, as it has always smoked a little upon acceleration. Thought the new guides would fix it, but it didn’t. Good job on these videos. I appreciate how thorough you are with these tests. I am anxious to see if you get it figured out.

1/ I think your oil consumption did not get worse, but just remained the same. The likely reason is that the first round of B12 freed the piston rings and the second round couldn’t do anything else, so basically diminishing returns 2/ the remaining oil consumption may be due to the cylinder walls being damaged and letting oil through. Scope the cylinder walls to check the condition and look to see which spark plugs have black tips, indicates carbon buildup from oil burning 3/ I recommend you use high mileage oil. I know you like that Costco brand because it’s very cheap but I would test to see how much oil burns with high mileage 5w30 because it’s said to have seal additives that may help

this is one of my favorite stories to follow currently. thanks for the detailed persistence.

One thing you can also try, is to get a lisle valve holder tool. Its the same type of hose for a compression kit, but you hook it up to compressed air like a leak down tester to hold your valves up if doing valve seals and not using the rope trick. When pairing that with a piston soak, supposedly helps push the splvent down the pistons instead of letting the solvent trickle down normally and helps agitate the carbon buildup to break free a little easier and makes piston soaks a bit faster. You can soak them initially for about 30 minutes and check to see if theyve drained through completely or not and depending on the results, adding more to the cylinder and then shooting air into the cylinder with the valve holder, or leak down tester to push it through.

I totally feel you. As a BMW inline 6 driver I’m facing similar problems. If you are 110% shure the valve stem seals are ok after changing them, oil on top of the piston could definitely be from the crankcase. I‘d definitely suggest installing some kind of catch can, even an empty glass marmelade with two holes in the lid can be used. It’s just important to understand what’s going on.

Bummer, I was optimistic coming into this video, but love the perseverance. I've also been told to look into the BG 109 EPR (Engine Performance Restoration) as it's supposedly more potent than Seafoam and Berrymans.

This stuff worked great on my ford 8n and my Allison Chambers both run great and stopped smoking Thanks so much for the video. Was ready to rebuild the motor and gave it a shot

I did this to my 2009 Camry 2.4 (2AZ) and it worked. I only used about a quarter of a quart of oil in 4000 miles. Thanks Dave.

Just bought my daughter a 2005 Camry 4cyl. I was devastated to find that her car burns a quart every 500 miles. The car runs terrific and didn’t smoke so I assumed even with 200k on the clock that it would be a solid first car for her. I keep our cars in impeccable condition and even when they’re old they don’t burn any oil. Watching these videos gives me hope. I’ve read success stories of people getting the consumption down to a quart every 3,000 miles and if I can accomplish this I’ll be really really happy. I’m going to give this a shot.

Excellent work! Excellent videos. And I love the Matthew 5 at the end.😍

Great follow up video. Not sure if you remember, but i commented in your first Berryman video (and added several picture links), and tried a very similar treatment, my results were looking really good after about 300 miles I didn't see any oil loss, like you, but then at about 900 miles, i was down a full quart. just a couple of notes, - i did experience some mis-fires on my first treatment, they went away after a few miles of driving. - i like the idea of the oil catch can. - i also like the idea of maybe trying out the berryman checkdip product.

Love BM Chemtool Use in the gas every few thousand miles. Bought an f150 with a tick at idle . Put two bottles in the crankcase. Ran half hour and changed oil . No more tick or any noise. 😊

Enjoyed the video Dave, have a couple of suggestions. 1: Get some fresh spark plugs in for a plug reading after you deem it necessary to add oil. Looking at the bore scope it seemed cyl #2 may be the offender. The plug reading may confirm this and allow you to focus more on the problematic cylinder. 2: I believe the addition of the berrymans to a warm cylinder may have a more dramatic effect. Go drive the vehicle and build some good heat (not idling), remove the spark plug and add your dosage. If you can narrow it down to a cylinder might consider replacing that spark plug again for additional plug readings.

I think you should get a leak down test done on each cylinder so you can confidently say whether it’s the rings, intake or exhaust valves.

Thanks for letting us in on the scientific experiment. Now, we’ll all know what works if we encounter this problem. Good documentation. I could have kept my identical car if I saw this years ago.

My guess for the miss fire is since the motor is variable valve timing the chemtool has significantly dropped the oils viscosity. The drop in viscosity is messing with the oil pressure needed for the VVT to alter timing properly resulting in misfires.

Followed the same procedure on a 2006 Miata that is burning 1 quart every 1000 miles. Used two bottles of Berryman's over a 24 hour period. The oil got seriously diluted with 32 oz of Berryman's treatment and the engine was missing and flashing over 2000 rpm. Ran the engine for about 10 mins in the garage, changed the oil and engine went back to normal. Be extra careful with this additive.

Thanks for showing us this experiment.

28:56 LOL the Celsius reading is on the inner track of the thermometer. Great video by the way. Looks like -3 C

Applied this process to my 2000 Celica with a severe oil burning, a quart in less than 100 miles. The results were very similar, after the treatment and the initial 30 miles drive, Hardly any oil was used. Working on the 300 mile drive now. Did get a code P0320 and pulled the second plug which was fouled with oil. Once completing the 300 mile drive, I will probably do a secind treatment as I think cylinger 2 rings are still somewhat stuck. Keep up the great videos.

This is great! Some suggestions for the next time you do this: - Position the car so the pistons are level to save B12 - Put 4 oz in a combustion chamber, use your scope to check if the whole piston is covered - Instead of rotating the engine around move the crank back and forth so the pistons move only about 5-10 mm up and down - Before you start the engine, if the stuff didn't drain down, remove it with vacuum pump or a turkey baster

Great video! Look at the views, the channel is growing! Congratulations… I would love to see what a catch can would do as well… I will say, quite some interesting comments as well 😆.

Thanks for sharing your story. I would make sure the pcv system is doing its job. The catch can ideal would show how much oil is being lost through that route.

As a lot of others have said, ruling out the PVC would be a good idea, including adding a catch can. The oil laying on top of the cylinders is concerning. It’s likely being forced there under pressure (PVC?). The other strategy might be to just put some type of additive, as you have been doing, and drive it for awhile. Give it some time, who knows the rings might not be seating well after all of the solvent you have subjected them to. Maybe they will reseat.

Hi Dave! I've been following your videos for a while because I have the oil bruning problem in my Lexus RX300. After a lot of brain burnings and additive testings, I decide to overhaul the engine including valve jobs, new valve seals, new head gasket, new pistond rings, new rod and crank shaft bearings ...etc, etc. The good news is that the average gas milege improved from 17 to 19 mpg and engine runs like new. The bad news is that the oil still burning as badly as before. Some lessons I have learned so far are: 1. the oil burning rate for a given engine is actually proportional to the blow-by and the blow-by is proportional to the cylinder wall worn. 2 There is no easy additive remedy to free seized oil rings. In my case, all six oil rings are seized and the only thing can free them is a small screw driver. 3 against most people's intuition, the major oil burning route is actually through the PCV valve to the intake manifold chamber and driven by the blow-by, not due to the seized oil rings failed to scrach the oil on the cylingder wall.

I have been following your experiments. One thing I would suggest. Given the mileage on your car, run a 10W-30 oil. Either conventional or synthetic. The synthetic 5W-30 is a great oil but with almost a 190k on the odometer. I owned a car years ago specd for 5W-20, I ran 10W-30 conventional Castrol in it. The car had a bad issue at about 80k miles due to a manufacturer defect. Mechanic told me my engine was clean enough on the inside to eat off of..

Been waiting for 2nd treatment

I can’t remember if you’ve done this or not but a compression test and a leak down test for each cylinder is certainly in order. I’d be interested to see if a high mileage oil would help. One thing I’m concerned about is running the engine with fluid levels higher than the full marks. When you fill the oil too much you can have issues with the crankshaft contacting the oil and causing it to foam up. When that happens, the oil pickup can’t do its job and you’ll starve the engine of lubricant. It’s possible that the solvents will prevent the foaming as well which would be good in this instance.

I’ve been using Lucas complete engine treatment and Pennzoil high mileage oil with good results in my 2009 Camry with 102,000 miles on it. The car has the oil burning 4 cylinder engine in it that I went back to the dealer twice about and they said it was normal to burn a quart of oiI in 600 miles. I add the recommended amount to the crankcase and now burn a quart in 3000 miles.😊

The best way to see good results from the berryman is to have the engine running and while giving it throttle from the throttle body dump a quick splash right into the throttle body and run the whole bottle right through the intake. That hot intake and combustion vaporizes the berryman and soaks the walls and intake runners and stuff just like the water vapor trick. I just did a berryman treatment on my 2002 dodge durango and 2006 jeep commander and added a can to the fuel tank. Derek from vice grip garage has shown many times how berryman takes a smoking old engine thats been sitting for a long time and frees up stuck rings and stops smoking on those old stuck engines.

Great videos thanks. I have a VW 2.0 also notorious for burning oil due to oil control rings mine is no exception. I however suspect that the carbon buildup damages the rings and renders them ineffective permanently.

This fixed my oil burn on my 2014 accord was burning 2 qts per oil change and on top of that I cleaned the intake valves and now I dont use any oil at all.

Cleaning the PCV is super easy and fast may help relieve crank case pressure which could be attributing to burning oil from excessive pressure in the system, I think it’s safe to say the B12 has done all it can do for your Toyota hopefully we can help come up with more solutions on the comments ☝🏽 Lubeguard has a nice engine flush kit that comes with a treatment after the flush, that stays with the new oil. Between the flush I had used a cheap filter and cheap oil and idled the car for 15, just to remove the chemicals that would have stayed over with Chen flush. Got the tip from a video on KZfaq!

Ame for car tips. Stayed for the aquarium trip lol. Thankyou sir😊

Once again, infinite thanks for the update!! I did the treatment couple of weeks back to my VW GTI 2007 120kmiles. [Update (2/16/2023): Oil consumption before: 1qtr in ~400miles. After: 1qtr every 500miles. The car certainly drives much better (was unable to accelerate without smoking everyone and now it's mostly ok) but still not good. I got similar theory to yours... Berryman's unstacked couple of cylinders but the original one (which is the one who started my ordeal) still stuck] Quick highlights in case they help: 1. Checked with the scope how much Berryman's was left after each 6hrs treatment. After 1st treatment nothing was left so thought that just "topping it off" wouldn't do it for the treatments afterwards, as that "small" amount may just sit at the bottom evaporating and don't reach the border of the piston (?). Instead, spread the amount in the cans over each treatment. 2. Used about the same amount as you (1.5-2 cans), i.e., ~800ml. 3. I pour a bit of Berryman's in a glass container and waited 6 hrs to see how much would evaporate. I guess it depends on the ratio of surface to volume (?) but it did go maybe 5-10% down but not more than that, so the loss I had in my car was probably down through the walls. Regardless, I partially placed the spark plugs back in after each treatment (took them out before rotating the engine). 4. The last treatment I did it with a syringe connected to a small plastic hose, and squirting the Berryman's in the cylinder. Hope would be to splash all the walls inside specially if my motor was not sitting flat. A thought would be to put the cylinder on the highest position with valves closed and have a gig that fits the spark plug opening, with the hose inside, to somehow pressure inject the Berryman's in there. Yeah... Maybe too fancy. Just saying... 5. In that sense, not sure why the engine has to be dead center when you add the liquid. I guess it could be in any position, isn't it? As long as you rotate it few times later... 6. Interestingly, as I said, after the first treatment Berryman's was gone from all cylinders. But after the 2nd, cylinder #1 had always something left. By the last treatment, cylinders #1 and #2 had some left. Maybe if the engine is good, the Berryman's should stay in the cylinder. It would be nice to check with a "new" car. 7. Also not sure if this helps but turning the crank was always the same hard for me along the 4 treatments. Nevertheless, within a cycle, it was hard-soft-hard-soft every 90 degrees. With the hard when the cylinders were centered. 8. Took me 3 hard tries to get the car started (no surprise). Lots of smoke like you. Drove at 4500rpm in the highway 20 min either by 3rd gear/60 miles/hr or 4th gear/80miles/hr Note: Checked for compression (on cold) before the whole treatment. It was even about the cylinders about 180psi. Added a spoon of oil to one cylinder and somehow was lower 160-170psi. Weird... may have not done it properly but moved on.

I love this series! Definitely get a catch can. I put one in my car and it is ming boggling how much oil it catches.

My suggestion is more high rpm driving. I like the idea of marvel in both the oil and the fuel and do a long high rpm highway drive. I also recommend an oil with higher detergents, like amsoil or penzoil ultra platinum but they are pricey, so I'll leave it up to you. Love the series

This is interesting, keep up the good work.

Hey berrimans' testing guy, great presentation and happy to have stumbled upon your channel... cool stuff and thanks! I'm a Canadian car guy who still has NO IDEA WHAT a Fahrenheit is, in Canada, 0° degrees is the temperature when WATER freezes, and 100° is the temperature WATER boils at... mostly though, people of our era are pretty happy between 10 ° and 25 °... of course, many people winter activities so below freezing 🥶 is acceptable 🎉 cheers 🍻 my American cousin 😀

Yes, by all means add a catch can. Then you can see how much oil you are using due to blowby. Second, check your pcv valve to make sure it releases at the right pressure.

I had great results with an engine flush additive . i was a 4cyl motorcycle and the cylinder pressure was way down. below the service limit. after the engine flush ran though the engine for 20mins.( then new oil n filter) the psi was up by 50psi. so it had sticking rings and the flush cleaned the crap out.

you should re install the plugs while soaking the cylinders to slow the drainage past the rings and evaporation. I would also plug the PCV vacuum line and let it vent during the drive this could be the misfire problem, also add some dextron ATF to each cylinder and cycle the engine with the plugs out before running for lubrication. I would like to see you add a catch can that will tell you if it's gummed up oil rings or low tension compression rings causing it to consume oil, it will also help eliminate future carbon buildup.

Thanks! Here is a months worth of money I saved from dumping oil in my 2010 a4.

what I understand from "car care nut channel " 1ZZ engine is one of the worst in the Toyota lineup. I had a corolla, manual as yours, 1999 for 19 years, and I had the same problem. I solve the problem of valve stem seals by adding AT 205. I tried different stuff to cut oil consumption but in vain. Finally, I get rid of it this year.

My grandfather was a mechanic for forty years. He swore Berryman's B-12 Chem tool was great stuff.

The reason you use less oil directly after an oil change is because then the oil is not yet diluted with gasoline. Gasoline makes the oil thinner. Once you drive a while and gasoline leaks down the rings, oil gets thinner and oil usage goes up. Still the results are great! By the way, you can proof fairly simply you have gasoline in your oil by dripping some old oil on a piece of (coffee) filter paper. The gasoline then separates from the oil. Alternatively you buy one of those fancy tests or if it's really bad, you can smell the gasoline inside the oil.

Also, one thing that's important about your high rpm drive isn't just Rpms, but also engine load. Having the engine working harder (like if you were towing in a truck or something) can increase cylinder pressure and temperature more than just high rpms. I recommend trying that. Find a long grade and go rip up it a time or 20 and see if it helps.

My Silverado with 150K+ miles was using about a quart every 1000 miles. I used a Stiction Eliminator in it for about 500 miles before an oil change and the oil turned DARK immediately after adding it. The consumption has dropped to about a quart between oil changes which is about 6000 miles. I attribute this drop in use(my truck has the DOD feature) to desludging the oil control rings. My theory is that the DOD feature caused sludge build up in the oil control rings since they are low tension any more. Cleaning out the buildup in the rings I think obviously made a world of difference. I have started using this product on ALL my vehicles including my riding mowers and it seems to help.

Dave, been watching your progress and I believe you have made great strides. Just as a quick review, you started with 1 qt usage in 300 miles and oil was black when checked. You now have 900 miles on a quart and oil is relatively clean when checked. This tells me your compression rings are sealing well (evident by clean oil that collected fewer combustion products from blow-by) but you still have oil rings that are not yet sufficiently clear. As I mentioned in my last comment (in your cyl leakdown tests), what collected over many years will not come out so easily and may require multiple treatments of b12. Also, Immediately upon changing the oil, there is still a fair amount of b12 residue in the crankcase that will dilute your new oil, that is why i suspect your first 300 miles shows least usage due to better oil viscosity. May I suggest maintaining the oil level through the winter and monitor for any additional progress, and continue in the spring if necessary. I do have a comment concerning the Kirkland oil however. I use castrol syntec products, but any oil with an ILSAC 6 specification is best due to the additives in the oil. Bargain oil, even if its synthetic, does not always have the needed additives to maintain viscosity, prevent vaporization and other properties. JD

Very interesting series. I would be curious to see what a 5w40 oil does to the consumption rate.

Your misfire with B12 in the crankcase is probably due to the crank case breather in your intake. The B12 is 'gassing off' , it's turning into vapor and being burned in the engine(it's a solvent). Acting like a richer mixture. Hence why it doesn't do it after you change your oil.

I’d like to see the catch can added to see how much oil is coming from the pcv system. For all we know the ring problem could be solved (doubtful) and it’s just an excessive amount of blow by. It would also be helpful to deduct the amount oil caught by the catch can from the overall amount burned. It may turn this one large problem into multiple small problems that add up overtime. Either way it’s nice to have the evidence from the catch can to confirm your ring fix or unfortunately dispel your efforts! Might I also suggest EPR engine flush by BG followed up with a can of MOA in the fresh oil after. I’ve used it on multiple ls engines with stuck rings with good results.

Finally waiting for this video . Up load 2 hour ago!!!!

I think the next experiment should be an oil stabilizer. I'm curious if that will change anything. A catch can is something else worth trying

I've used B12 for 20 years. Pour in the oil a day before oil change, pour in gas to clean injectors, the reason stores run out, is dirty thieves and no manual ordering. My local Walmart has only had one can of QD electronic cleaner for months, and someone dropped it and broke the nozzle off

Nicely done.

I put RevX in a Mitsubishi with frozen rings. Ran it all the time. It freed up the rings and boosted the MPG by 4.

If I recall correctly these engines actually not too prone to burn oil compared to the later 2008-2015 years in different models, those are notorious to burn oil. I saw some crosshatch on some if your earlier videos, so I'd actually just pull the pistons, install a new set of rings, hone the cylinder walls and throw everything together and see what happens.

Berryman's B-12 is $4 Acetone. If you're try to clean carbon, fork out the $17 for a 30-50% PEA cleaner like Amsoil PI or Redline S-1.

Hi Dave---new subscriber because I'm really interested in this. I have an '06 Ford 5.4 3v Triton known for the spark plugs breaking off in the engine. Which 7 of 8 did when I changed that original set. Using the Lisle tool was able to remove all but 2. Took to a shop where they did whatever they had to...ever since then the engine has burned oil. My dad was no mechanic but he took care of our vehicles and tractors and such. I remember his method of changing oil (because I helped many a time.) He would get the engine hot and put the vehicle on the rack and pull the plug and filter...let it drain pretty good. Then he would take put on a cheap filter, put in cheap, thin oil minus 1 quart and finish it off with 1 quart of diesel. He'd let it run for about 5 or 10 minutes. Shut it off and pull the filter and plug and let it drain a long time---even overnight sometimes. We never had a problem with oil usage and it almost looked as clean at 5000 miles as when we put it in there. For what it's worth I do remember seeing B12 Chemtool cans in the shop but not sure what he used that for. Will be watching to see how this turns out for you. Your tenacity is AMAZING!!!! Jesus bless.

HI DAVE. GREAT VIDEOS. WHAT BRAND OF BORESCOPE ARE YOU USING ? THANKS. KEEP UP THE GREAT VIDEOS

I would love to see how far you can go with reducing oil burning

28:38 Youknow…. Just had a thought, you should try High Performance Lubricants Engine Cleaner product! If it’s rings, that stuff will do WONDERS! Group V base stock oil in Straight 30 or 40 grade with Alkylnated Naphthelenes and well I don’t know exactly the blend but it can be added to oil as-is! If it drops, as it has, add that as it is designed to also act as motor oil….

i have a 2000 rx300 lexus v6 just got back from florida i am using 1 qt. every tank of gas,i am going to try to use something to help my oil usage thank you for these videos only problem for me is i have to remove the whole wiper motor assembly to ger to the cylinders on the rear, i am going to do a compression test before i do anything.I removed the pcv valve when i got back and it was stuck but it still would work as a check valve as i blew through it,i hope that i can get some good results half as good as you have.

Thank you sir I have been waiting for this video 🫡 much love

Stay-Bil makes a product in an aerosol can called fogging oil. It’s made to coat the cylinders and valves for storage. That would prevent dry starts which could score the cylinder walls making your problem worse.

I would love to see what an oil catch can would do, and how you would introduce. Also, have you tried going to a thicker oil to see if that would help? I appreciate your content, and I'm having similar issues with my 2 Kia Rio's.

For this model engine, that has significant challenges with the rings, I'd suggest you put in a pint of "Rislone High Mileage Engine Treatment" at every oil change.

Try Engine Restore! It works! Restores compression and can cut down on oil consumption. I would love to see the video on it. I’ve seen a lot of videos with restore and compression tests but not on oil consumption. They claim it to cut down oil consumption too.

The ignition miss is probably either an ignition coil on its way out,or a fuel injector on its way out. You would need to capture or view live data from a scan tool to determine which cylinder is the culprit, so that you can swap/test parts. with other cylinders. If you can figure out which cylinder is the one with the miss, best way to determine if it's coil or injector is move the coil to one cylinder, and the injector to the other. If the miss then follows the part to one of those two cylinders, then that's the cause. If the problem stays in the cylinder, then you know you have a mechanical issue (valve or head gasket leak) specific to that one.

I tried this and rotated the engine about once an hour. I noticed that the b-12 would leak past the rings in about an hour or 2. I'm going to try it again with a 50/50 mixture of b-12 and marvel mystery oil. I'm hoping the mixture will slow the leaking past the rings down and allow the mixture to soak longer on the rings and pistons. B-12 evaporates very fast,, the mixture should slow that down some.

i have enjoyed watching your videos on the Corolla. I have a 96 Landcruiser that used a quart after 1000 miles, but it has 348k miles on it. I did a head overhaul, so I know the valve seals are not leaking. It is interesting seeing your drive around and recognize the landmarks. My daughter is near you at Roper Mountain. Take care.

I would probably do a compression test to see if the rings are getting better or staying the same. Maybe try a stronger cleaner like MOA EPR, could be that the cleaning that the b-12 did just broke loose the carbon in the block and re-gummed the rings. From what I've seen EPR is one of the strongest cleaners for dirty engines, typically used on boosted applications with port injection. Comes in 2 forms small can for a small flush and a big kit with a flush and rinse oil and then after additive.

The barrymens mix you have in that engine is making it too thin and overfilled. I think that's what's causing the slip. You change oil and put the recommended oil viscosity in and no slip.

I think a thicker oil is in order for this engine. That should bring oil consumption down a lot. I'd try a 10W-40

One idea as someone has mentioned is, use compressed air to press the cleaning detergent to squeeze through the rings! This is easily do-able as we can modify a Cylinder pressure tester. If we really want to go further, try recirculating the detergent via a pump, then let the “piston high-pressure flossing” machine run as long as you want!

The only way to be sure of improvement (or lack thereof) with un-sticking the rings is with checking cylinder compression after each phase (cleaning), but that horse is already out the barn. BUT checking compression will give you an idea how bad the rings (aren't) sealing. An FSM would tell you what is considered 'good' compression for your engine. A catch can will help with oil burning no matter what. PCV must always be cleaned often on an oil-burining engine.

They are called snake oils for a reason. I suggest running Castrol high mileage oil that comes in the green jug. It used to say "with superior burn off protection" right on the front but at some point they moved or removed it all together. Still seems to be the same oil and has performed great for all my +200k mile engines.

If you are trying to stop the oil burning, have you changed out the pcv valve? Clean out the egr valve if it has one and clean the IAC valve. Suggestion u can get an oil catch can off Amazon and it will give u a volume to how much actual blowby u have as opposed to guessing what is blowby vs consumption my man 💪

Berryman’s is the very best product I’ve ever found to clean old varnished gas from small engine carbs. I suspect the misfire is more due to the Berryman’s splashing onto the spark plugs and fouling out the electrodes. Merely turning the engine over by hand didn’t evacuate the liquid from the cylinders so I’d say you’re lucky the engine didn’t hydrolock and cause major damage. IMO, a better option would’ve been to crank to expel whatever liquid remained by morning before reinstalling the plugs. Of course that would’ve meant covering the open plug wells with paper towels to absorb and perhaps newspapers to weigh the paper towels in place. As many times as you’ve tried these experiments, I suggest buying a spark plug cleaner for less than $20 at Harbor Freight but it needs an air supply so you’d probably need a compressor. The specs say 90 PSI working pressure, 7.7 CFM average air consumption. It seems like a good investment considering not only the price of gas wasted by the misfire but the unburnt fuel that’s damaging the catalytic converter. Although with all the chemicals you’ve tried, which undoubtedly flowed through those exhaust ports, the damage may have already been done. If stepping on the gas causes the engine to bog down one day, there’s a good chance the cat broke apart and caused a major exhaust restriction. But I’m just envisioning the future, not wishing such a calamity upon anyone. Just that I’ve been there, done that. I’d say the lower oil level on the dipstick when warm is because the oil hasn’t completely drained back into the pan. But I can’t help but wonder if over-filling could accelerate the loss of oil. Looks to me that you’ll either have to live with the oil loss or install a new set of rings on the pistons. Perhaps adding some Engine Restore or something similar like Bar’s Leaks Oil Seal would make a good video after you’ve exhausted all the other options. Hey, maybe those companies would sponsor your video. Couldn’t hurt to ask.

My theory with the missing is that the Berrymans is evaporating out of the oil and entering the intake via the pcv valve and making the AF ratio rich. Also explains oil volume reducing. Just a guess… thanks for documenting this for us.

I've done many similar experiments over several years in all kinds of environments. My observation: oil use is MUCH lower when it's cold than when it's hot... and much lower when the engine never gets particularly hot. So, short trips==less use; long trips==more. (More per 100 miles) I don't actually know of a good solution, other than replacing pistons and rings. That's what I'm preparing to do.

As a last resort I’d try BG complete engine flush. It’s expensive but I’ve never seen a negative result on those Ive read about. Great series as I about to try this on a ‘13 crv with blowby and burning oil issues.

A little trick I've learned, with the oil hard to see on the dip stick. Go over the end of the dip stick with some fine sandpaper. It dulls the finish and you can really see the oil level so much better. I actually glass beaded mine at work in which does the same thing.

Great test, and a great video! Ive been following you for a while now, and i like your work! My guess it that it only cleaned the sludge off the piston rings, while the carbon stayed there preventing you from further improvements. Carbon is really hard to clean. Ive tested like 5 different cleaners to clean the carbon off the valves. I found in a garage old diesel cylinder head and removed the valves. I then dipped valves in different cups filled in with ABRO carb and choke cleaner, ADK carburetor cleaner, ABRO diesel injector cleaner, some brake cleaner, Nitro disolver, engine flush oil aditive, synthetic disolver, industrial floor cleaner. - Diesel injector cleaner did very little, it did dissolve carbon a little bit, but it would take days if not weeks to do the work -all of other cleaners did nothing but cleaned thick oil or gum off the valves -ONLY industrial floor cleaner (dimer) completely dissolved the carbon, so much that all it took for me to clean the valves was one wipe with a rag. Soon il do the test with it in bmw 116d. Tho im afraid it will eat up the valve seals when rotating the engine. Its really aggressive.

Project farm did a product called “restore” on a tractor that burned a crazy amount of oil, I wonder if something similar would work

Without going into a lot of detail, probably the drain-back holes in the pistons are still blocked. The first treatment with b-12 appears to have freed the rings up, but it's going to take considerably more to open those little holes in the pistons behind the rings. Your best hope, without disassembly, is going to be in working b-12 into those areas of the pistons and soaking as long as possible, before the high rpm drive. Having said that, it's very unlikely to work at this point, for a variety of reasons, with one of them being when you did the first high rpm drive it probably hard baked the carbon into those holes and they're not likely to soften again... 1qt per 1000mi is very common in the 2000s, so I wouldn't get too wound up over that. The next best way to improve oil consumption is to increase efficiency so it takes less throttle to accelerate. This is a long subject, but requires making sure you have no vacuum leaks(oil leaks can cause vacuum leaks on Fuel Injected cars even when there's no CEL), and taking care of all the details to get it in top running condition.