Nothing like the old iron brought back to life, you done well sir

That tube on the top of the engine with the slots in it is actually for the spark plug wires, to keep them out of harms way. It takes a bit of time to put them in there, but it's worth it.

Nice 8N! Subscribed so I can follow this

Nice score!!!! I'm after a more complete one. but those are hard to find untouched and not restored. at least here in MI. But $250 you basically got it for free!!!

Looking forward to watching this being restored.

I was just as giddy when I got my 1940 9N running. Awesome little tractors.

Big fan of your videos Dan Ran, keep up the great work

Those old Ford tractors are amazing. They seem to always be salvageable. I like your idea of using the garden hose to run water through the engine. I see a lot of KZfaqrs run them dry. That's gotta damage the water pump even when running for just a few minutes.

That same exact tractor is sitting at the Kubota dealership/shop here in SC. I love watching them start it up. Smokes a bit, but it's awesome.

Just watched this (Feb 2024) and was thinking the same thing when he couldn’t pull the carb apart. Those old engines were built solid, good to see it running. I’ll have to look to see if the tractor ever got put back together.

Absolutely love your videos man! I know who I'd call if I have mechanical issues, you're really great at walking us through complex issues using terms we can all understand! Can't wait for more!

Have a '49 and a '51 8N. Both run, great tractors. Need ROPS.

any one other than me yellin noooooooooooooooooooooooooooo when hes pulling carb apart he didnt pull out the brasss tube

More content please

Awesome 👍

You know it´s a halv V8 and you can get parts in for a v8 and have half on it to the storage for further screving.

Most likely not a head gasket unless it's leaking on the outside. Becareful of the headbolts because some might snap off. Worked on hundreds of them over the years. At least your rear wheel seals aren't leaking which is the most common and leaving your brakes all oily.

Don't forget to make a video first wash in 15 years.

My Dad’s 8n(also a 1949)sat for seventeen years and last July I pulled the engine and did a complete overhaul. The tractor was completely rebuilt in 1966. I was going to fix it up when I retired nine years ago but other things got in the way. It is ready to be started but it will be at least two weeks before I can make that happen. Yesterday’s Tractors and The N Tractor Club are excellent sources of parts and information. I noticed your wiring harness that goes to the. Oil and generator laying between the exhaust manifold and head. I hope you fasten it to the wire loom tube or run it through there before running the engine. The carburetor should have studs instead of the bolts to fasten it to the manifold. Get some line wrenches and stop using pliers, things will go smoother.

I have a 1950 8n that I’m in the middle of restoring. Mine runs, but needs some work on the draft controls, then needs to be painted. I have a set of new front tires that would fit your front rims if you’re interested.

For the dying over half throttle pull the choke to see of it is infact a fuel issue and not a spark issue. If it runs better with choke pulled then check fuel level it may not have enough in the bowl. I wouldn't run straight to rejetting it get the oil bath air cleaner on there and it should enrich the mixture as well

Nice pistons

Great job! I was super excited to see it crank and run. Just *dying* to know what you do about that head gasket.

I've got a 48 8n great machine. That carb should have had studs and it would bolt and unbolt way easier with a new carb it should come with new studs as well. If you still decide to change that carb.

I was able to find carburetor studs and nuts at O’reilly Auto Parts. Four in a pack. Nappy and Bumper to Bumper didn’t have em.

You need to invest in a set of spanners vice grip destroys everything.

That is not the PTO that is going up an down that is the 3 point hitch . if the carb is not licking out of the crack way by a new one . To clean out the tank you can Jack up the back wheels an put Jack stands put cleaner in the gas tank then put a had full 3/8" nuts in the gas tank plug all the hole's strap tank to one of the rims start up the tractor put it in gear you what the nut's roll an banning round in the gas tank for about 20 minutes then look into the tank to see if it looks good if not run it longer if it looks good then take tank off the rim clean out the tank good I hope this help's you out

Well, the most common addition/upgrade is to make it a 12v system (and add an ""alternator"")........Lights= LED's.......Don't know if there is an transistorized ignition or not......

You probably need a better cleaning product in your ultrasound. The metal should look clean and bright. Maybe contact a clock parts supplier, they have good cleaning solutions for clock parts and should work on that.

I just got a one owner 1952 it was still in use by the owner side Distributor Fire order BTW is 1, 2, 4, 3 is it going yet, its been a year :)

I had an 8N. That grill is all but impossible to find and after markets don't fit well at all. I sold it and all of the implements that I had, along with a new dual axle trailer used to haul it, after my precious gift from God that was my wife, passed away from cancer in just three weeks after diagnosis. Just lost interest in using it anymore.

i have a ford 8n 1952 can you see how many hands were on them old tractors that should not have been

I have a 48 the best thing I ever did was install a pertronix electronic ignition on mine get rid of the points and condenser mine will start before I can get my finger off the button check it out on the tubes

Is that already swapped to 12V? I noticed you put a 12V battery in it. No problem for the starter or solenoid, but will burn the coil up. My guess is already swapped. You did say the alternator was missing. 6V system used a generator.

Why pinesol in the ultrasonic cleaner? Also why didn't you get a new carb bolt; or cut the long one off while the carb was soaking, or at a minimum move the long bolt up to the front hole so it easier to access with pliers?

8 N's are supposed to be Red and White. That One looks more Gray.

Looks light u found a good restore project are u going to do full Restore

STOP ... STOP ... STOP If You already know, then disregard this alert. I checked below to see if anyone else was warning You off but don't see anything. NOTICE: That is a "non-live PTO". What does that mean ? It means I was born in 1949, the same year my Grandfather bought his Ford 8N and transitioned from mules to gas powered/towed implements. I literally have hundreds of hours operating that tractor over the decades. It still sits in my Uncle's pole barn today and still runs. SOOOOoooooaaaooo ... What is a Non-Live PTO ? It means the PTO shaft coming out of the rear housing is directly connected to the crankshaft of the engine. So long as You are not using an implement having a rotating mass capable of storing energy, You will be fine. Thing is, You have already bought a finish mower, however while still dangerous, a finish mower is light and its blades store only small amounts of energy. Conversely, if You connect to a 5' bush hog with blades of a significant size, that bush hog can and will store an amount of energy You will not imagine, and even though the 8N is a compact tractor, it can still operate a bush hog. Here's the issue. One day my Grandfather bought a 5' bush hog with two blades that weighed around 70 lbs per blade. In my eagerness to operate the new mower and also to impress my Grandfather, I set about mowing one of his pastures. I marveled a the ability of the 8N to power the bush hog. I was blissfully whacking grass until i came to a corner, where in order to preserve the beauty of the grass pattern I was generating, I pushed in the clutch then encountered the ""ride of my life". The energy stored in the blades of the bush hog actually generated so much power, and because there was no viable disconnect to the PTO shaft, the tractor pushed me right through the fence and only quit running when the inertia of the bush hog was less than the power coming from the engine. And yes ... I reached down to flip the engage/disengage lever to the PTO, however the load on the shaft was so significant it wouldn't disengage ... I was along for the ride. REMEDY ... Stop ... do not pass go ... to Tractor Supply or Your local implement dealer and buy/order an "Over-Running PTO Shaft Adapter (not expensive, even under bidenflation). Now ... when You push in Your clutch, the energy stored in the bush hog blades has "NO" effect on the PTO Shaft and You will continue blissfully along without the "moments of stark terror" associated with learning the difference between a Live and a Non-Live PTO. Also, Your engine will love You since that strain factor is removed from the system. Life Is Good.

WOW, No REALLY, WOW ! Like watching paint dry !

Sounds to me like you got a loose connecting rod

What are you spraying and why when you first try to fire it up?

Update on my ‘49 8n, on Oct 11 the tractor roared to life after nineteen years. I could not believe it fired up on the second spin and ran smoothly and a lot quieter than I remember. Timing cover gasket is leaking and that will get repaired this weekend.

78yr old mechanic. Using Vice grips ??. Time to go to local pawn shop and get yourself some good tools cheap.

Just like most people, you are missing the word "ton"! noun 1. NORTH AMERICAN a unit of weight equal to 2,000 pounds avoirdupois (907.19 kg). 2. a unit of gross internal capacity, equal to 100 cubic feet (2.83 cu. m). Please don't use words that you don't know the meaning of!