Thanks Thomas. I have a tutorial on flash settings at this link: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qrFlebSVudiRlnU.html

You’re welcome 😊

Thanks Tony! The finishing steps are outlined in my REP series, and in some videos on my YT channel as well, depending on the steps and what all is added. Mostly it's just adding a preset, which I have in books #1, #2, and #3. You can check those out at www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078NLRKNM?ref_=series_rw_dp_labf

You are welcome!

If that's the case then you are doing something wrong. You may want to rewatch this again, but I also have much more information in amzn.to/3r8yfLU and also in my course at prointeriors.nathancool.com

In short, you'd spend a lot more time editing and have rough edges. There are a few reasons to always use a darken-mode window pull: 1. The darken-mode technique allows you to get the window "exactly" cut out. If you relied on just cutting it out manually you will inevitably get rough edges. Watch closely again to how I describe drawing the polygon: you don't go to the edges, you can draw far away from them, and then feather. 2. Not all windows nor the areas in them need repair. Watch the second example where I only paint in certain portions for repair, thus avoiding turning some important flashed interior things dark. The darken-mode layer did 90% of the pull, and I repaired a small portion of it. 3. The darken-mode technique does the job 90% of the time, and there is no need for a repair layer. Note the third window group in this video where no repair layer was needed. I show more examples of this in the tutorial at kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jZyBqcqQv8jVmok.html

Nathan Cool Photo Thank you so much for the reply. I feel like I’m drinking from a fire hose trying to absorb all this. I appreciate the information you have available. Your work is amazing, and I hope to just get in the ballpark of what you can do.

Hi Rossane. I don't know what you mean by having "two exposures for your window pulls". I'd have to see what you're doing...would require a coaching session...unless perhaps you can elaborate a bit more on what you mean.

Thanks! The same principles apply no matter the window and/or frame: wood frames, black metal frames, sheers, mini blinds, curtains, it doesn't matter. If you follow the steps outlined in the interiors book then it will work every time. Not sure if you have that one yet, here's a link if you'd like to check that out: amzn.to/3HMRvSa

Either way it doesn't matter, it works the same no matter what, that's the idea of using the darken-mode method. Here's a link to a newer video of mine on that subject that should help: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/n65zZaR5qq2nemg.html

For a number of reasons: 1. The darken-mode technique allows you to get the window "exactly" cut out. If you relied on just cutting it out manually you will inevitably get rough edges. Watch closely again to how I describe drawing the polygon: you don't go to the edges, you can draw far away from them, and then feather. 2. Not all windows nor the areas in them need repair. Watch closely again at the second example where I only paint in certain portions for repair, thus avoiding turning some important flashed interior things dark. The darken-mode layer did 90% of the pull, and I repaired a small portion of it. 3. The darken-mode technique does the job 90% of the time, and there is no need for a repair layer. Note the third window group in this video where no repair layer was needed.

@@NathanCoolPhoto Thank you so much I will try it this weekend

Absolutely Walter: There are many steps involved with editing an REP image, from pre processing, editing, post processing, etc. There can be things like fireplace swaps, sky swaps, TV swaps, color corrections, and more. To cover all of that in one video would make it longer than the latest Avengers movie, so I have those broken down into numerous videos here on this channel. Additionally, to help guide you through all the various steps, in the correct order and understand why they are being performed, you might also want to look at the e-books in my REP series at www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KPJ5QQ8?ref=series_rw_dp_labf

Hi dancheb, that is explained in detail as to why, how, etc. in my interiors e-book at www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0755KXSL4

No need to use other flashes...you just want to overexpose the interiors around the windows for the window pull layer. Having other flashes fire at the same time risks having their reflections in the windows.

Thanks! Same process, doesn't matter. I shoot homes with window frames made of wood, black metal, stone, brick, surrounded by sheers, all kinds of blinds, you name it...doesn't matter, it's all the same process.

Get closer to the windows; use less flash power; use a repair layer when all else fails. This other video might help in that regard: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jZyBqcqQv8jVmok.html

Hi Radek, I never use HDR, I use Flambient for everything,. Book #1 (interiors) covers that, and also explains why I don't use HDR.

Hi Patrick, this technique works on any color of window frame.

Thanks! I've never encountered a window frame so dark that it can't be overexposed...and that's the trick: overexpose the interior with flash with camera settings exposing for the outside. I've shot windows in dark wood frames, black/bronze frames...you name it ;) Beyond that I'd have to see what you're doing, which would require a coaching session, but it sounds like you aren't using enough flash power to overexpose the interior's window frame.

You need to use Lightroom "Classic" CC, not the scaled down Lightroom CC

@@NathanCoolPhoto I just installed CC LR and PS and I am so happy with my subscription from Adobe.

Just overexpose more than the window. I show many examples in other videos, and you might want to consider looking through my interiors ebook, which talks about this more in-depth, here's a link if you'd like to check that out: amzn.to/3qErV9t

Hi Robert, not exactly, you angle it at the window frame. You might want to check out my interiors e-book which has step-by-step instructions: www.amazon.com/dp/B0755KXSL4

Thanks! To understand the steps as well as how to do them using LR and PS (as well as why) I'd suggest downloading my ebook ""Photography for Real Estate Interiors", here's a link if you'd like to check that out amzn.to/3z0CWY4

Well, without seeing what you are doing then there is no way for me to say. But, these are things I cover in-depth in my pro interiors course at LearnRE.NathanCool.com which you might want to check out.

Thanks Tevin. Sounds like it's time to upgrade to a monolight...you need more power. As for your eraser question: 6 in one hand, half dozen in the other ;) As I point out though in my advanced editing book, doing the E and B keystrokes to toggle between eraser and brush provides consistency when moving fast through editing by keeping the color pallet consistent with other operations, such as cutting areas. In other words, keep colors consistent with other operations by simply using brush and eraser and you might be able to move faster while making fewer mistakes. Once again, 6 in one hand, half dozen in the other. There's a 100 ways to bake a Photoshop cake ;)

@@NathanCoolPhoto thanks so much for the feedback. I've recently discovered your work so your books are in the mix to be purchased