Thanks for showing this tool. I'm heading over to his channel to take a look at this and will be ordering one. Another great video.

That's a great tool, works really well. Thanks for the demonstration.

Great video, you always have some great, usable ideas.

Wow very interesting. Thanks for showing and the demo Mark !

Now that is a bit of alright. An automatic threader could be very useful. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.

Congratulations on the adapter and for explaining the new tool-Thank you,Mark-

Man what a great Tool for the Homeshop!

Well done on the adapter. I love the auto-retract threading tool. I agree it looks scary in use, but it works well. I may have to get one of these. Dave.

It takes away the "stress" part of thread cutting. If you can fully trust the tool of course.

Thank you for sharing about this tool!

That is a great retracting threading tool very impressive..

Oh Winky! I've been looking at these for a while now, and your video kindly popped up in my feed 🎉 thanks for sharing buddy

Great demo of retractor and nice adapter there. Perhaps it would be less stressful if a landing groove was made at the thread end. Great work Winky!

2:19 Did Winky just call out Mr. Whoopie for having a funny name? Mr. Pot, I'd like to introduce you to Mr.Kettle, lol.

Great build and a great video, thanks!

That works great. I'd rather stick hot pins in my eyes rather than thread up to a shoulder. It would be a bit pricey by the time I got one to Australia, but as I get older and my reflexes slow even more, it might become more attractive.

Great video winky, keep'um coming.

That's a really useful tool. Glad I watched to the end; I was going to comment a few minutes in that whatever was holding against the popping tool was going to move. Got it right! /blind squirrel.

Awesome…no stress🎉

Another great video. Thank you

Hi, that's a cool device! I usually now thread in reverse (like Joe Pie) when I can but every once in a while, I must thread towards the chuck. I know your machine only goes one way. Nice video. Rich

Hello Winky, awesome tool, thanks for sharing, much appreciated, cheers from me. 😃👍👍👍👍👍

SPECTACULAR FRIEND HOW YOU DOMINATE, AND WORK IRON WITH YOUR MULTIPLE TIME MACHINES, BUT ALL IMPROVED

Cool looking tool bro. I do have to say that when I look at the icon for this video I think "Danger Will Robinson"! Younger readers may not get that reference.

Really interesting! i would love to build one but i would have to get a threadcutting lathe first :) the old hardinge that ive employed in the shop isnt cutting the mustard

hay ! that is super cool.... i love it ! ... Well done ! that virtually eliminates the worry of threading toward the chuck !.... I like to thread in reverse with the cutting tool upside down but with a screw on chuck the demands tiny cuts.... i have not experienced the chuck unscrewing in reverse yet doing anything but it is possible ! my chuck seems to latch on very well when I screw it on and it takes a hammer on the chuck key to brake it loose ! not much force but it does lock on ! I love my Logan 911 !!!!!! thanks Winky !

So glad you got to try that out. I got one as well from Craig (MrWhoopee). Via the Hobby Machinist forum. That reminds me that I need to order a second one for another lathe.

built one but i made a few changes its really a cool tool.

Winky this is such a great concept that it can't help but spawn further refinement. Like automatically disengagement of the Half Nut. Wakodahatchee Chris

Great Tool. I always thinking how to do this safely. And making this with arduino. But with mechanic control i like it more.

Nice tool. Over $400 AUD makes it rather pricey though. I'm hoping he will sell plans someday. That would probably make him more money over all as well.

I mostly use Geometric auto die heads whenever I can. But it’s difficult to get all the chasers these days. Also my biggest head goes to 1”, so anything g larger needs to be single point cut. No matter how many decades I’ve been doing that, I’ve always thought of it a real pain. I’ve been thinking of making one of these things, but there are a number of people making them, some better than others. This one looks nice. I think he has a couple of videos up. The 1” retract is the latest model. If he’s selling these, I might get one.

Super demo, and a neat tool, but I don't mind doing it the "old fashioned" way for one-off projects. If I were doing a bunch of the same operation, it'd be a different story. Cheers from Montana!

Mark, I'm thinking, if you put a 29 1/2 degree angle on your stop. It will follow your compound rest and stop the double thread at the end.

Winky, I think that you would do well to fit a much weaker reurn spring to the threader. That seemed an excessive rapid return. Regards from Australia.

Glad to see you bought one of his adapters! I bought one of Craig's earlier versions in Dec last year for my SB13. I had never threaded on any lathe before and other than the pucker factor when first using it, it works great. I'm an old guy with slow reactions so threading was just a little to daunting. Do you plan on adding the half nut disconnect to the system? I added that component as well and highly recommend it.

Looks like a nice threading tool. I can see the issue that it has, when the threading tool is triggered to retract it flies back with enough force to act like a slide hammer moving your tool post. Perhaps you can add a damper ( piece of rubber, spring or both) to the tool to absorb the energy before the energy is absorbed by the tool post. Hopefully if the damper works correctly you will not have to use the sandpaper under your tool post.

THAT is a genius idea for a home workshop tool!! And simple! Question though. I see you did use the compound for infeed. Doesn't the compound movement set at an angle also "release" the tool sooner as you feed it in farther since it moves both the tool bit and the slide left?

SWEET :)

Wonder if you can adapt the auto retract threader so it retracts when it hits the shoulder?

I am pausing video to recommend you starting using oil sooner more oil the better .to help chip tear out. And to help cooling.

Olá amigo gostei do dispositivo e da precisão!!! Lhe desejo muita saúde e cada vez mais sucesso!!!

Winky - Your Auto - Retract is amazing . Obviously the slide hammer effect is concerning . Can you get some rubber into the design to act as a shock absorber . I'm sure that it will evolve beyound it's present state . Fantastic Video - Four thumbs up . -- Jim

A comment bellow. Got me thinking outside the box. Why not a cover over the table that fits the vice and locator. Sheet that has cutout for vise set above clamps sloped to the back. Tool setter could have a hole with a cap cover?

I hardly thread with the compound anymore Ihavent tried straight in acme yet but my threading insert are pretty tough I also like going left to right with my insert holder upside down at a higher speed makes a very nice thread ....cool tool wink I thought you would make one yourself

Looks really slick. Did you make it or buy it from him?

Maybe a thrust washer on the top of the tool post might help it get tight enough not to move.

I think you need another stop at the tailstock end to reset the tool after the cut, old hard wired habits take some re-setting !

The reason you're seeing the dual lines is because you're feeding with the compound but ending at the same spot with the tool. Does that make sense?

Maybe if you did a spring or very shallow pass using the cross slide for the last pass you could get rid of the double ending.

And I thought the only thing Mr Whoopie had was the 3DBB.

Cool Tool! I think that it should only need to travel a short distance on retract, just enough to clear the OD. Perhaps that's asking for more complexity, but it would eliminate that hammer blow action on the tool post. Just saying...

Please Sir, How much do you want for one?

Threading is a form cutting operation, angle infeed via compound or radial (direct) infeed via the cross side makes no difference due to the fact once the threading tool position has been set, the threading tool remains stationary for the entire duration of the thread cut on the lathe. There are only two moving items during the thread cutting process, movement of the thread cutting tool on the carriage driven by the lead screw and rotation of the lathe spindle with the work piece on the lathe spindle. Seldom fact with threading is the threading tool geometry. ~Fact is, both sides of the threading tool cuts. This is due to the form cutting nature of thread cutting mandated by thread form geometry. There was a time when threading tools were initially made of carbon steel then a transition was made to High Speed Steel. For both of these threading tool materials the thread form shape was ground into the tool by machine or hand. This method of creating a threading tool has very real limitations, specially hand ground threading tools. Traditional threading tools are typically ground with zero rake, this is not the ideal thread form cutting geometry and is one of the prime reasons why threading on smaller lathes can and is often a problem, nothing to do with angle infeed via the compound set at 29.5 or 30 degrees. As for making large threads on a small lathe, consider and ponder this example of cutting a thread pitch of 5.5mm on a small lathe. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jM1laZWDlduZg2g.html The other way for threading up to a shoulder or internal threads with a shoulder is to run the lathe spindle CCW, moving the threading tool away from the shoulder. This is Not possible on a lathe with a threaded on chuck as the chuck is likely to un-screw followed by rapid dismount causing a serious disaster. Manufactures of carbide threading inserts like the now common A60, IR or ER recommend radial infeed or direct in, no angle infeed. www.mitsubishicarbide.net/contents/mhg/de/html/product/product_guide/information/turning/threding_ex_02uni.html For the fact, once the threading tool has been moved into the position needed, the threading tool remains stationary for the entire duration of the thread cutting process. What doe make a very real difference is the threading tool geometry which has a rake and relief moulded into the insert with precise controlled chip formation that cannot be easily done in High Speed Steel hand ground threading tools. Keep in mind, as the lathe carriage is moved by the lead screw that direction of cut is the cutting edge of the threading tool that does most of the work, the back or trailing edge creates the thread form on the back or trailing edge. Both sides of the threading tool is cutting with the leading edge doing most of the cutting.. The American centric angle thread cutting infeed via the compound set at 29.5 or 30 degree myth needs to be understood why and how it came about instead of being blindly followed or practiced without understanding why and how this myth/practice came about. Miltifix made a manual retracing threading tool (Type FE) for their Multifix holders, they have been recently reproduced for Multifix holders: www.lathes.co.uk/multifix/

His real names Craig….Whoopee 😂

"Technically the right side of the thread profile had a slight saw tooth effect. If I had left a small portion of the tool on the right side it would have eliminated this effect." You've done the experiment and essentially answered this question by this experiment. Essentially repeating the results in this Joe Pie video, coarser head pitch or fewer threads per inch will aggravate or better illustrate the fallacy/myth of only the leading (left hand) edge of the threading tool does the cutting. It is also why ALL industry standard threading tools have full thread form be it 60 degrees, 55 degrees, ACME, Buttress and many more.. All are single point threaded with direct/radial infeed. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/bt2olJp9p5aqpHk.html Those steps are the result of the trailing or right edge of the threading missing and not making the form cut. It also nicely illustrates why compound infeed at 29.5 or 30 degrees is not needed and only adds complexity to the process of single point threading. Or why Mr Whoopee recommends direct (radial) infeed via the compound, as practice in Asia, Europe and else where for single point threading on a lathe. As for those steps in the heads cut with the 30 degree threading tool, that is not an acceptable 60 degree thread form in any way.

Somewhere, there is a rat trap that is missing its main spring.

Great job, But I really do not see a lot of advantage in the threading tool,??? 👍👍👍👍👍

Another way, no angle in-feed via compound at 29.5/30 degrees (appears to be an majority US of A machinist practice, not done in the EU, UK, Asia and other Nations). kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mJ-hdZury7vdYXk.html

The music junked another video 👎👎👎👎💩💩💩😬

I like that tool. Once you conquer the secure setup, this would make single pointing much quicker and easier. It should become the go-to every time you do manual threading. Great invention Craig and great tool demo Captain Wink. Me likee! 🥸👍👀✅