Hi Luke. This is a great video very clear and concise and uses all basic cheap to come by items... This is exactly how I will be doing my new layout but using different items in a similar manner as I used to run an RC model boat business and have lots of left over stock that I will now be using for my trains.. lots of push rod and control stuff for steering and thorottle control of yachts and boats and left over K&S metal tubing from the display rack.

Common sense and basic, economic kitchen table engineering. Just the sort of thing we all need to use more often. Great job.

A friend of mine is using this method to control some of his points. I've jokingly nicknamed his layout "The Pompidou Building" 🤣

A VERY CLEAR AND PROFESSIONAL DISCRIMINATION OF HOW TO DO THE SWITCH. Well done.

A great idea, I have used micro irrigation tubing which is black with mig welding wire and some of them are about 6ft away from the switch which is used to change the polarity of the points, so far no problems, keep well and safe

Your a man after my own heart Luke, I love doing things like that. Why pay loads of money when you can do it cheaper. well done mate. I shall be doing a point with the wire soon. Thanks for showing it. all the best Duncan.

What a useful video! One of the things delaying a layout is the cost of installing point motors. Points are bad enough, but by the time the motors have been installed, it seriously adds to the cost. This means that a simple layout can be operated at a much lower cost and for much less effort. Thank you.

I've just come back to N Gauge and it's all changed so much in 30 years, things are so complicated now ! So I love using the simplest method for doing something. This is great advice Luke, thank you.

That's a splendid idea. I will give it a try. Thank you 🚂🚃🚃🚃

I have been thinking about doing this for some time and have watched a few videos recently. I built my layout without point motors as I thought the wiring etc would be too complicated and costly. It is a pain when I forget to change a point, especially when I do a live broadcast, maybe this is the way to go. Thanks for sharing

Just came across this excellent video. I've been considering electrofrog points but have been put off by the expense of motors, switches and (to me), the wiring complexity. This looks so much easier and cheaper! Thanks!

Something I'm going to be installing myself soon mate. Great simple method and well explained.

Smart idea..! I am gunna try that out..!

just as simple as its genius. nice work

Thanks for the very clear instructions

Hi Luke, I have found that normally there is sufficient pressure on the point blades from the action of the slide switch. Only on one turnout did I found it necessary to dismantle the slide switch, and with a fine needle file increase the throw of the slide switch to ensure that the point blades stay locked to the stock rails. Regards Barry

Brilliant, thanks Luke!

Hi Luke A great video very well presented and an excellent way to control points. I will give it a go. Thanks for posting Dave.

Well thought out, I've only ever used wire in tube - for the last 50 yeas at least! (shows my age!) But I like your idea of the switch. I drill a hole under the point with the wire running under the board, in various odd bits of tube I've found, with just a pull at the baseboard edge, your switch for live frogs has given me an idea of using old Triang Yellow levers which are on - off - on so might prove a possible variation which look a bit like a real signal box too.

Just had to watch this again, as it was instrumental in the choice to do the same on my layout, nearly three years ago now.

Hi Luke, just watched this vid and like your style of DIY. With all the money you've saved you can buy another loco or set of wagons eh !!! I have electrofrog points and linked the insulated rail to another rail of same polarity and not connected the frog to anything and it works fine. I am switching them manually but have thought about rods coming to the edge of the board to save stretching over. Same principle of using a rod, but without switching polarity, as the line after the IRJs are live because of the link wires.

Hi Luke, Very useful video. I live in New Zealand and I use a similar system for my wire in tube turnout operation I have used the American brand K&S brass tube and piano wire for my home made turnout operating units. I have used exactly the same DPDT sliding switches as you, which has enable me to change the turnout polarity at the same time as I change the point blades. I can operate turnouts up to 1 metre from the slide switches. Don't know about you, but I have found wire in tube turnout operation to be 100% reliable and very, very cheap. Well done Luke Barry

Great video! Well explained 👍😊✌️ I think that you could alter tension using omega loops with further runs, or use rods or similar.👍✌️😊

thanks, so simple

Excellent tutorial, might have a go at this on my N gauge layout as im trying to find a way of changing the points, I also need to do an update on the layout as its been a year since i last done one.

You are genius Thank you for the tip All the best, Dan

I love your switches. I will do somewhat of the same but I found that instead of brass tubing or plastic (the stuff you get from the hobby shop) I found that a box of cocktail straws will do the trick very well...They are smaller and I attach them with "super glue". I'm lucky that I don't have to worry about wiring the point s as there is no power in my track. I use a battery rum engine and am completely free of any track wiring.

Use a DPDT switch so you can power your frog and an indicator light.

more of these how-to videos, please. Most informative.

Hi Luke, thanks for the clear tutorial, which I found very useful! I can't see where you connected the wire to the frog of the point - I guess you just soldered it on the side that is not in view? Cheers!

Very nice and easy "how to".

Hi Luke, Thanks for the video, I was planning on doing something similar. Could you please tell me what the switches were again, I listened to the video a couple of times but I couldn’t make out what you called them. Also your switches appear to be on the top of your layout, I’m wondering that if you extended the wire and switch through the scenic board onto a small ledge it would work better. I am thinking more about the scenery and the switches getting in the way, or do you need to have access to the wire and tube? Thanks, Mel

Great idea! Thanks. You mean SPDT slide switches, correct? Looking forward to more great ideas.

Hi Luke, It looks like you and I have used slightly electrically different slide switches, though I think that they are both physically the same size. I model in P4/S4 and hand make all my track and turnouts, consequently all the turnouts end up with "live frogs", therefore I need a DPDT slide switch to operate the point blades at the same time changing the frog polarity. I did have a small problem with operating turnouts over a metre from the slide switch due to puckering of the piano wire in the brass tube, but solved this problem by using a slightly larger piano wire. I am now experimenting with angle cranks to reduce sharpe bends in the brass tube. Regards Barry

Fabulous design and a superb explanation / demonstration of your completed assembly. Thanks for the share!!! BTW, are you using PECO Code 83 switches? If yes, might you know the item number?

Do you have to isolate the frog with your method? Have insulated rail joiners at the frog like you have if you use frog juicers and electrofrog? Great method though. I have some of my turnouts operated by servos but they are mostly insulfrog in my TMD. I have 4 electro frog operated by servos with frog juicers. I also have two code 100 symetric three ways which are very close to the edge of the board and your method would solve the question of wiring them which has my head spinning! I will give it a go although having three frogs would I need two switches to change the polarity?

What a great idea. Im new to the hobby, so have sooo much to learn. Are these switches On/Off switches ?

a novice here. and looking to use this as i like the manual aspect. but you mentioned wiring to change polarity etc.. does the switch require power? or am i being a bit dumb

Hello Luke, I realise this is quite some time since you produced the video and am not quite sure if you are still available and willing to give me some technical advice relating to the electrofrog polarity. I found your video just what I was lookling for inasmuch that it is manual operation with a frog polarity switch but I am not quite sure on a couple of things although I could understand what you were saying. Hope to hear from you if you can.

Plastic tube, look in your average kitchen or bathroom cleaner sprays!