This is great! I love how clean you're doing it and making sure to follow code. I hope mine comes out as clean. I still need to find some of those dang wireways lol.

I love watching your videos, David! They really give me a basic understanding of electricity and they are not designed to be how to videos.

Woot! I had no idea inverters could be clustered into a "three-phase system or up to four devices in a double split-phase system". What a time to be alive :-)

Great video. To the point, no music. I like your attitude. :)

This video was super helpful! Thanks for the information!

Just an FYI as per the SMA SI inverter manual. "The AC cables between the Sunny Island and the sub-distribution of a system must have the same wire size and the same cable length for all parallel connected devices" This is a cool channel. Thanks for sharing your projects and knowledge.

Nice use of the gutter. Your grounding is spot on in my opinion. Grounding between AC/DC conversion is something that is still not quite perfected, in my opinion. When in doubt overground, unless it messes with neutral/ground separation, necessary for GFI's to work..

Great job! Keep it up!

Thanks, Poz! Appreciate your work! If you can have a bit more of your systems from DC to AC. Great work!!!

Its a learning journey for sure, like your videos, keep up your good work!

systems looking good so far btw

Thanks Dave, as always I do appreciate it.

I think you could give a few Journeymen a run for their money! Great video.

I'm in the Process to install a Dual MagnaSine 48vdc an Upgrade to my old Systems when I get back to the Philippines and I enjoyed your Video it's very informative but sad to say I don't have the Liberty of Having All those Cool Tools and Gadgets I shipped all the necessary Hardwares for the Upgrades which I got from Northern Arizona Wind and Sun and some Straight from Magnum Power in Washington. Can't wait to Start this Project and make it neat and Professionally Installed..

How about the same system almost but Grid~Tie~In ! You are the man when it comes to this stuff ! Thanks

WOW NICE work brother. You did a GRATE JOB!! I would have hired you when I had my solar bizz. God Bless Brother..

Ciao David, mi piace tanto il tuo canale sono molto belli i tuoi video perché sono molto educativi. Un saluto dal Italia!

I'm loving your channel. You mentioned you're not an electrician, I would love to know what you do. You seem to be very good at everything?

David I'm not sure of the code there when I was wiring my setup I had to run an earth ground. Did you have to do this aswell

heya david nice install from a DIY I don't know precies how it is with usa standaard like UL, here in Holland (europe) we use the nen1010 normalisation standard so it's nice to see some differances between them

That cover for the breaker dot click on for beans! I don’t know what I was missing but I couldn’t get it to snap in at all

awesome channel

Hey David! If you're able to find an electrical supply house close to you it will be way cheaper to buy wire, boxes, and other supplies than Home Depot or Lowe's. I enjoy your enthusiasm and learning with you.

out of curiosity.. do you ever measure for current on your grounding where your ground+neutrals are bonded? Thanks for your videos.

Good overview of wiring offgrid inverters to an AC panel! Yes excessive grounding going on, like u said u shoulda used plastic flex conduit. In regards to the jerk that commented below,, I guess he’s perfect and hasn’t changed his setup since he installed it.

Where did you hook up the hotwires and neutral on the inverters? Thx again

Nice job free Power is Coming

Great to see your back feeding wiring. This is how grid tie inverters such as the SMA Sunny Boy connect to the grid and help people go Net Zero by simply going into a 40 amp 240v double pole breaker (20% rule of a 200 amp main service panel). However, why didn't you just run the AC output of the SMA inverters into the main L1 and L2 of the AC breaker panel instead? Saves the need for an AC panel that has a master breaker? I'm no electrician, but the term AC combiner box for what is really an AC breaker panel doesn't make sense.

In UK we only have 32amp breakers on 240v sockets. Bigger breakers on showers and ovens etc

You only need to bond one end of the conduit. Bonding both ends of the conduit can cause circulating currents to build up in the ground wire from simple induction.

Thank-you for you’re Teaching ! I’m a DIY ‘re i’ve got a 5KVA 230v PureSineWave Inverter charge controller 48v to only use when the Gide is down , I’ve got Two 48v Lithium battery Banks 1 - 3.2v 280Ah & 1- 2.4v Titanite 40Ah , I wanted to hard wire it into a 100A Double Pole Breaker which would be a dedicated circuit only for this ! So when we lose power you have to go down and shut off the main breaker killing the grid from the house and then flip on the double pole breaker which is live by battery back up I also have a manual transfer switch with six circuits 30A but that is very limiting! I have the Moes Automatic Transfer Switch but I would prefer to do it manually 2 make sure No Issues & I have A brand new breaker box I could wire as

NONE of the ground wire connections would comply with UK standards - ALL bare ends must NOW be terminated with a ferrule (applies to Line and Neutral too) Double connections are allowed but should use a twin entry single out ferrule. We don't have the problem of split phase either (except on 110v site transformers (+/- 55V AC about ground). I thought this was going to be about combining inverter outputs (can be done potentially using grid tie inverters NOT tied to the grid. Requires a NON grid tied single inverter for sync). However, the modern domestic supply provided in the UK provides a 240v 100A main fused input to a 100A (max load) consumer unit, the normal standard one comes with separate 80A and 63A rated RCDs, EACH providing 5 circuits. Upstairs 32A power and 6A lighting on separate bus bars and downstairs 32A power and 6A lighting on opposite bus bars with a 40-45A cooker supply and 32A utility supply the spare circuits used for ancillary lighting or dedicated spurs e.g. for gas heating boiler and/or refrigeration etc. So, any solar/inverter supply potentially has to provide up to 20kW to go completely off-grid. AFAIK in Germany they have a full three phase supply to each house. Not sure about flats, I suspect they only get provided a single phase out of three. The UK & other European countries share only four things - a "kind of" commonality or rather compatibility (sometimes) of appliance plugs (France and Germany are different but designed to be compatible) a 220v standard (within a certain percentage to allow for local differences) - the UK is nominally 240v but is often at 250v. a 50Hz supply (easier to divide down to time 1/100ths of a second (60Hz is easier to run clocks ostensibly, but not so sure about that) a standard set of wiring colours - brown - line; blue - neutral; yellow/green stripe - earth. Everything else is different (pretty much). Love your video series on this subject but you should bear these BIG differences in mind since you have an international audience.

Than ks Davi .ok solar Viet Nam

love your video nice work brother am planning to have tool box with 11 inverter and 12 volt deep cycle battery 100 amp

quick question am kindly asking? how many 300w solar panel it need to get 3000w ? what size charge controller i will need? what size wire it will take to set up 3000w system? how many batteries it will take to run 3000w inverter? what size fuse ?

Do you have a recommendation for how I can best use my hydroelec power? I was thinking a big split phase unit by mpp, do you recommend them? Do you know if they can consume battery power if I have a separate charge controller going into the batteries?

If you are back feeding into the 60amp breaker, does it work as a breaker then? I'm curious as to why you didn't just attach the inverter wires to the top terminals, like the two 100amp lines/phases? would attach in your main breaker panel from the local electric company? The only reason I as is I'm looking to do the same configuration at my house. Thanks in advance!

So I am running the LV6548. I want to connect it to my trailers main breaker. My plan was to disconnect the grid wires that were cut from the grid when the trailer was moved and connect the LV6548 in their place. I will not being using anything over 120v so I will be keeping any breakers over 120v off. What do you think?

So I'm looking for some information on how I should wire my panels for my Growatt 5000 inverter. I have 12 panels at 450 watt each. What would be my best options? I'm also planning on using a 4 to 1 combiner box.

Great - Job Explaining ! Im doing a low budget battery back- up / DIY Alternator Generator will be using 2 Gm 10 SI High Amp 110A & a 120A w/ a Ford - Mazda 150A will be powered by DC 12v motors energized by battery-bank 48v Lithium Phosphate 3.2v 280A & a bank of Lithium Titanite 2.3v 40A “ what I’m trying is to be self sufficient in electricity in a grid-down scenario . My inverter is a 5KVA 230v pure sine wave charge controller in a sense the alternators can charge the PV for 12v but if I tap into the Stator which is 120v Ac before the change over to Dc current .

I didn't know how to put the hold down kit it hasti be only in the left side thank you

looks good Where's the ground rod lol?

great job, soon will be done somethink like you with leaf bats + Sunny Island 8.0 + Rec Bms, one question if you have a blackout batteries could work like a generator ? is in the Sunny Island we need to set parameters ?

Hi & congrats... cuestion: why you don't screw the "the hot legs" (the red & black wires) in the top of the AC box? I mean in the conexion to the copper bars of the AC box, instead of to the main breaker directly? You know what I mean?

An inverter is 1 phase at 230v best way to split into 2 legs , wire it straight into 1 phase of a 100A Double pole breaker and then jump it over with a short wire at same gauge , which will make my entire box 1 phase “ Question will 220v plug still work if both phases is the same phase ? Thank you - you do an awesome job !

You called the AC distribution panel the combiner box. I thought that the combiner box referenced the solar panel combiner?

New Camera ! : )

Did you use and convert the sub panel just bacause you already had it rather than using a main panel?

If you were wiring the same ac combiner box but with grid included (solar and battery and grid) would the wiring be different?

Hi I am now learning about ac combiners via sol-arc 12 parallel diagram and a video. How does the combiner work? The name suggest like array combiner that a number of wires run into it and then one common wire run out. However, where there is a generator connected to inverters, solar panels to inverters then ac output and the grid (120v/240 vac) do they all combine into one red and one black and one neutral wire that run into the manual transfer switch? Thanks

Of course im a lil confused lol ok so the green & white wire coming from the inverter is switched to a black & red wire going into the breaker box now what volt is that going into the box and is that just one inverter sending power to ur box at 220v or 120v ??

Is white the uniform code for nuetral in your area? It should be ( - ) equivalent or black in DC

David what did those inverts set you back I been looking for a set of those to run parallel

I have this SRNE inverter that I'm trying to connect with a 15kwh lithium-ion battery but the inverter keeps showing the error code 05 (Battery overcurrent hardware protection). Please any suggestions on what to do?

Half way through. You hooked the red and black to breaker. Is the red wire from one inverter and the black from another? You did this to achieve 240v?

Does the main breaker hold down kit prevent a breaker from being installed in the slots across from it?

I took time to read the sol-arc wiring diagram for inverter wiring, page 48/53. It states that one one side (top) the wires from the meter through the main disconnect then to the ac combiner then there is a line for each inverter by splitting (ok. I understand) then there is a line going to the Bypass Transfer switch on line side ( I guess a PDB can do that before it comes to the ac combiner box). Then on the generator side the wires go into the ac combiner box then splits into the 2 inverters (2nd ) and then the outputs from the inverters come into the ac combiner box and then goes to bypass transfer switch I assume as one sets of wires (3rd) bottom. Looks simple but when I try to get images of ac combiner boxes to show the above that is where I got a problem. The examples don't reflect the above. Are there really 3 sets on inputs and then multiple outputs? It seems that all an ac combiner box is is really a sub-panel and you can buy a sub panel and the fittings and make an ac combiner box yourself. I can only imagine all those wires in an ac combiner box. Can you enlighten me? Thanks

Show 👍

Just curious, but since the wire way is grounded and those armored conduits are metal, wouldn't that already bond them? I'm sure the copper makes a better connection and maybe it is just a electrical code issue, but just would have thought all that metal would carry current if it came to it. DIYer too so just curious. Maybe the idea is if something were to fault it would go mostly through the copper wire and not the metal conduit. Thanks

@DacidPoz - AC combining require phase synchronization. How are you sure that you wont have issues with phasing of the AC combiner?

Are those single phase inverters or dual phase inverters?

I saw you have your chargery BMS install, can you talk about it?

How does your system prevent back-feeded the grid when there is a downed line? Many linemen have been electrocuted from unexpected voltages.

David..I did some trade for a Solaredge SE7600H-US inverter. Can It be used for an off grid system to run my shop/garage?

Just want to Ask you What kind of Batteries are you using right now I Have 16 6vdc Trojan Batteries Banks which are almost at the end of their Serviceable Life and I'm looking for Something more Efficient

Thanks for the video. Please show us the firmware update process!

Its been my belief (in the past) that the armor/flexible steel conduit/connector screwed/attached to the raceway makes a 'bond' between the conduit and raceway. The electrician that did my flexible conduit did not do 'extra' bonding wire - and the city passed it. Do you have more info on why it was necessary to run the bonding wire on the conduit connectors? Another great video!! Really appreciate the info on proper feeding in power to the subpanel w/fastener etc.

I can't figure it out😭 I'm looking at the video at 2 years old and I'm barely even getting started doing what I'm doing

We use bare copper here. Would code allow you to use pvc conduit and pvc bushings? The bushings are merely to prevent marring the insulation. Since you used metal of course grounding was in order. I have used flexible plastic conduit nicknamed smurf pipe. Not legal some places. Things that make you go 🤔

I have a 6000 single inverter. Only 120v. I think I only need a single pole breaker 70 amp. Says 6000w 68 amps out.

Very nicely done. My only issue is, bonding should be solid conductors.

I hope you are open to information about solar and NEC. First, I tried to find a NEC definition for combiner box and couldn't. But after doing many megawatts of solar design, I can say that that term is for D.C., not AC. AC is panel board or load center. Then, I saw your grounding bushings on the flexible metal conduit, they seem to not be required for your installation. Maybe I'm missing something in article 348. Also, while reading Article 348 Flexible Metal Conduit Type FMC 348.12 Uses not Permitted (3) In storage battery rooms. I would suggest that you get a determination from an Architect if your batteries would be classified as such. If yes, then you need to find out what it takes to get an exception. I believe there is one for air changes per hour. I just want you to be safe! Always be safe. The life you save may be your own. Respectfully, Kevin

If you added 2 more inverters, would you just need to add another breaker? If so, could you program the additional inverters to be L1 or L2?

Ni

Please grow a beard. Thank you

David you are NOT a DIY-er, you are a DIYOAOA-er. (Do it yourself over and over again) You keep changing your setup over and over again. Your house and shed are not powered by solar. They both are powered by KZfaq. Battery in, battery out, new battery in, battery out, inverter in, inverter out. Your setup box gets more holes in it every day. This is not DIY. You do have an interresting channel, but your home and shed are just grid powered. You wont give the sun any chance to produce power. Look at your KZfaq history. Solar ON OFF battery IN OUT change this change that inverter in converter in inverter out converter out.