Glad you've found me at last! Ever since I started my channel a decade ago I have had no success in being able to crack the American viewing market. I suspect that is due to KZfaq's promotional & marketing approach, along with the algorithms that generate that. I get so frustrated seeing similar DIY car videos with egocentric loud mouths with hats on backwards getting more views in a day than I get in a year, when their content is based on their ignorance, and teaches people how to duplicate their mistaken ways of doing things. Aawwggghhhh! So please share my channel with your buddies, so they too can learn the RIGHT and easy ways of building project cars. cheers.

@@BillsBuildandRace I will absolutely share your page, and ask them to do the same. You’re the best. 👍🏼👍🏼

I tried the blackout paint on the inside of my side windows. And even using the popular Krylon paint, and suffing the surface with sandpaper, i still had paint seperation when using Sika 295uv adhesive. Thankfully bolts and nutserts were also used. I found masking tape caused bleed through under the tape of the paint aswell. I remade them and sliced into the protective sheet carefully qith a razor. This yielded far superior edges. When it came to the front glass, i did not paint a blackout on it. Instead, i suffed the surface, cleaned with alcohol. Then used Sika 295 direct onto it. Aswell as 44 x m5 nutserts around the perimiter. (About 90mm spacing) Then a complete wrap of the outer side of the screen with a black vinyl wrap. The lastly, carefully cut the inner part out to see through.

Now have to figure out how to do the side doors which are frameless on subarus.

You can't clamp wood onto the plastic because 1) It is likely to smoke & discolour the window 2) Any clamping would be likely to loosen anyway as the sheet softens. There IS a large fan in my oven - it's just underneath it, constantly circulating air - more for changing the air as the moisture in the sheet is released rather than temperature control - although a more even heat distribution is a side effect naturally.

Everything, including the cost of making the oven & the plastic sheet, to make all the windows for my hatchback cost me under A$400. Most side windows don't even need to be heat molded, as the curves are so small.

@@BillsBuildandRace my bad I didnt mean 4 grand (facepalm myself*) I meant 400 usd(it's 4 grand in my countrys currency). Anyways that's not alot, but this is given everything goes right, which Murphys law shows me otherwise 99% of the time ;-)

She said "Tell them I'm not your wife!" (She bloody well is BTW... wishful thinking I guess. Glad you enjoyed the vid. Now at last I can get onto simpler mechanical stuff with this build where I don't have to LEARN anymore!

Side windows are rarely curved enough to require heat molding.

@@BillsBuildandRace I realize that, my question was if you ran into a situation with just some more curvature, and you didn't want to get the plastic all ''gooey'', Is it possible to heat either of the plastics so it still keeps it's primary rigidity but is just pliable enough to form into a slightly tighter curve.

@@rickden8362 Yes that is possible, but you would be advised to drape mold it over the factory side glass, rather than just thinking you could warm it up enough to just bend it accurately using only your hands. Hot air dryers cannot heat a whole window evenly enough, which is why most guys who try this method fail.

@@BillsBuildandRace Thanks for the info.

That's exactly what I did in the next video in this build. Glad you're enjoying the channel. You can scroll through over 200 videos via the "Library" headings (top left main channel page).

That formed a vital part of all the research I did, but really all I found was arguments over the differences between the clear plastics, and nothing at all demonstrating their actual molding.

One of my viewers below says Sika 295 is what should work with Lexan. Do a test, eh?

Ok will do.

I am not clear on what you are saying. Can you PM pics to me at my Redline Racing facebook page?

@@BillsBuildandRace bill ill take picture tomorrow and send to u. Thanks for.reply.

Hmm thats fine if you want somone else to do it.....

$500usd seems like a good price for 5 windows. Until you add US postage. Likey to be 200usd + for postage. Then the fact our dollar is only buying 68c usd, Making it $925aud ish

Great idea! Thats' why i did it. I have a large blow fan in the bottom BBQ door.

Yes good point, which is why commercial plastics ovens are electric. But stripping an old electric oven & playing around with mains wiring is more fiddly and needs some skills many shed gyros don't have. The gas bbq was super cheap & easy to convert into an oven. If the flames creating moisture in it were a problem I would not have been able to successfully produce the molded windows which I did. It really is more a matter of the moisture already within the sheeting before you put it in ANY oven that causes the problems of bubbling.

On advice from a friend in the plastics industry I did indeed put a large fan heater under the gas jets inside the doors to circulate air, not so much for temperature, but more to help remove any moisture coming out of the sheets that can cause blistering. I think I mentioned the fan in my other video on how to make an oven from a gas bbq for heat forming plastic windows.

OK. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/pNyFYKmq26iZh6s.html then part 16

Yes I certainly looked at that, but the extra die/set up work on a project this size, the fact I could keep things simpler without having to use that method, and the industry videos & forums I researched is why I settled on drape molding as theway to go for me.