I once saw an aesthetic being labelled "homeless-core" and I felt disgusted. Homelessness and poverty aren't fashion choices

Another thing I've noticed in the acceptability of utilitarian or lower-class clothing is it also depends on the kinds of bodies that are wearing them. If an overweight or middle-aged person is wearing a baggy t-shirt, waist-high wide-leg shorts, and tennis shoes, it's seen as trashy and gross, something deserving of mockery. But you put that same outfit on someone skinnier and younger, like a Gigi or Bella Hadid, and suddenly it's another banger fit from a fashion icon and everyone wants to look like that, leading to thrift stores getting cleared out by trend chasers and prices rising across the board. The people who have to wear clothes like that aren't suddenly cooler or more appreciated, it's just trendy to cosplay them for two weeks and then go back to wearing more ostentatious Gucci or Balenciaga outfits; I mean, you don't want people to think you're ACTUALLY poor, old and unattractive, right?

The fetishization of hard work by the fashion community (i.e. second-hand distressed Carhartt Detroit Jacket for $500) always rubbed me the wrong way and ultimately turned me off from following mainstream fashion. Besides, workwear is meant for working, and I personally am not trying to look like a plumber on my nights out. I've gone in more of a minimalist/menswear direction, and I feel so much better after dropping out of the streetwear hustle.

My family used to wear Filson and Carhartt for work out in the woods (forestry and logging). Good work clothes have always been pretty expensive, but it was a good investment. A few years ago, I got my husband another Filson moleskin shirt because he loves them. ALL the buttons fell off within ONE day of wear in the woods. It became clear to me after actually visiting the flagship Filson store in Seattle again and seeing how they'd shifted thier marketing from hard working folks in the Pacific Northwest to hipsters in New York, that thier quality had also gone downhill. When we pay good money for work clothes, they have to last for more than a day of work. *edit: I've always repaired our work clothes, especially sewing button back on, patching holes when possible, and mending hems, but there's no excuse for $100 shirt to fall apart after one day of work. That means whomever was sewing the buttons on at the factory did it with the understanding the shirt would be worn as street clothes and not for hard work.

Its definitely an irony where rich upper class people try to act and sound more working class. In the same vein as someone who comes from working class roots, I always try to buy the expensive stuff I envied when I was younger cause we couldn't afford it. Strange!

I think "dressing expensive" and "dressing less affluent" reflect both an effort to fit in and a way to achieve sartorial equality. It's also a way of self-protection, the way a chameleon or octopus change their colors to blend into their environment. The clothing choices we make extend far beyond comfort and style.

What really aggravated me was when my friend took me to a "thrift" store which was expensive as hell. They've driven up prices for people who are genuinely in need.

Living in the USA I think another contributing factor is that you can get teased for wearing anything "Spiffy" or "Fancy". Something like an oxford shirt is thought of as church clothes here but a distressed Carhartt work shirt is acceptable.

Some people call it blue collar stolen valor my only problem with it is it drives the prices way up and they basically gentrify the working people out of the clothes they need and like and ironically at the same time the prices go up the quality goes down too

This is definitely your best video yet. The memes, the commentary, the comedy, it's all *chef's kiss*

I’m really happy you addressed this topic because this issue right here got me uninterested in the fashion world for good. I don’t mind if wealthy people wear expensive brands that they genuinely love. However, it left a real bad taste in my mouth when I started seeing the disgusting trend of expensive brands turning poverty into an aesthetic. Pre-worn out shoes and extremely ripped clothes to the point that it was straight up glamorizing being poor were the last straw for me. The worst is when these same individuals that (to be frank) have never experienced what it’s like to grow up in a rough part of town go to these places for photo shoots! It’s not inspiring, it’s not artistic, it’s not brave, it’s dehumanizing. Seems like the only time people that are in positions like this get attention from people is if they are being used for clout nowadays.

I def agree that this trend partially stems from rich people’s tendency to not want to flaunt how wealthy they truly are, and the idea that discussing money is a taboo. Really weird considering I went to school during the era of brands like Hollister and Abercrombie. Kids would flex those brands SO hard just to prove to others that they could afford to consistently buy new clothes from the mall.

To be fair, everybody is cooler than a middle class guardian reader.

I always enjoy a discussion about fashion because it's fascinating to see how society uses it to express what kind of people they are, whether real or fake

This goes back at least to Oscar Wilde who wore intentionally frayed pieces, and is a cousin of the Ivy style where an expensive piece might be a bit threadworn , or paired with something casual, to give an intentional I don’t care old money vibe. No rich person wears actual workwear, trust me you will be treated like dogshit, it is presented as workwear in a way that clearly displays wealth and zero fucks. Cool video I’ve wondered at this trend and I just remembered some of this stuff from university.

I love channels like yours made by people who have a connection to the high trends but isn't living inside a bubble. Your content is a digest of the world we live in regarding the topics with no disenguinity or need to maintain an image, concept or ideas. It's just honest and that's cool.

I heard the phrase 'Stolen Blue Collar Vallor' recently to describe the look that emulates the raw blue jeans/$300 work boot/designer plaid shirt look.

Im really split on this issue, because for one, its becoming more acceptable to wear my usual fit of heavily worn cargo pants and a company issue work tshirt, which is great, because its comfortable, durable, and affordable, but on the other hand, i don't like the fact that rich kids don't walk around like supreme billboards anymore, because that makes it harder to bully them.

Really liking these more in-depth topics! I've watched you content in the past even though I don't wear tech at all just because you present it so well. But this a whole different level. Great work! A couple of thoughts. Setting aside dressing in a full construction worker's uniform or hooligan ensemble, I think one reason that high fashion has often referenced (or outright stolen) workwear elements is because many of them are utilitarian and have become iconic in their own right. I'm thinking here of things like Carhart pants, utility jackets (like photographer Bill Cunningham wore), hoodies, etc. They tend to look good on everyone and have stood the test of time. The ultimate example would be jeans, which started out as workwear for miners and now are worn by everyone. The same could be said for military influenced looks. I personally love a good military-style piece or detail, and I have never heard anyone being accused of fetishizing the military. Pea coats, field jackets, combat boots, etc. They've all crossed over because they are good style that can be worn by most people. On the other hand, this can certainly go too far. The fashion archives are replete with examples where this blew up in designer's faces. I'm thinking of Galliano's newspaper dresses that were "inspired" by homeless people warming themselves with actual newspapers or some of McQueen's "homeless" style collections. Definitely cringe. Definitely a no.

there is one thing that goes unmentioned in these discussions, and that is body size. all clothes are worn upon bodies. heavier bodies are generally perceived to be poorer, and thinner bodies are richer, regardless of what they are wearing. Brands like carhartt go up to 4xl. brands like carhartt WIP go up to XL at most. the true status symbol is being slim, athletic, and young/attractive. If you are those three things, you can wear a ripped t-shirt and a muddy pair of trashed sneakers and people will call your fit fire. if you aren't those things, such as if you have more than a 38 inch waist, or you have a harelip, then it doesn't matter if you are in head to toe Gucci, you will not be perceived as rich/fashionable/stylish, etc. I don't expect Antwon to notice this, as he is a good-looking man who wears size 32 pants. but being heavier (a normal weight, but more than the bodies that expensive clothes are made for) (far more so for women, but men as well) makes the job of dressing stylishly and well much more difficult. the rich people co-opting working class aesthetics do not ever ever co-opt working-class body shapes.

Man I used to go to thrift shops to get work clothes now I can’t find no carhartt cause god damn Alison and her depop grind

Really love these deeper fashion discussions that explore the sociological reasons fashion moves the way it does . My art college focused on intense critical theory , so I was loving that guy Debord is coming up 😅 I think you would really enjoy watching Rian Phins 2 videos on “status ambiguity “ Best video yet , much love Antwon Ps- it was very interesting to see who was actually poor at art school or who just dressed that way because being a starving artist was “cooler” , their parents would come for the break to pick them up in a fancy car dressed to the 9s

Funnily enough, I have found for myself that adopting a more upper class inspired wardrobe (old money aesthetic) is cheaper than the working class Larp many people around me started to adapt. I think maintaining a functional and interchangeable wardrobe, as well as thrifting and shopping military surplus has helped me a lot cutting down how much clothing I'm consuming, as well as putting in more effort into shopping quality, although still at affordable prices

Very well explained! your evolution from THE tech-wear connoisseur to a fashion analyst is quite a sight, keep up the good work!

rapper TRAUMATIZE literally innovated wearing workwear as fashion saw him at a show in Miami back in 2011, I remember posts going around in the techwear group on FB like 7 years ago were people were roasting workwear being an extension of techwear functionality aspect brings it together if You ask Me but glad this style is now getting some light

i honestly think that now that i have money, i dress way less creatively than when i was broke. i mean, i don't take as many risks because i can just buy something that's close to an idea of what i would theoretically make, except it isn't quite. and a great deal of what i used to wear was just...my adolescence never truly ended. i was a teenager in the 90s, and i kept on with goth and punk sorta stuff. i liked that if i didn't feel what i was wearing before leaving the house, i could safety pin something onto it or whatever. i am not about to safety pin *anything* onto a saint laurent leather jacket. the blue collar approach to clothes is always going to allow for more modularity and creativity.

Grew up lower class and had no fashion sense. But when I read the outsiders I related alot to the book so I embraced my trashy background and started dressing in clothes I considered tough

I just love that the example for dressing rich is stepping out of a fiat barcheta, one of the cheapest options if you want a sporty looking cabriolet

You might find the works of Thorstein Veblen ("theory of the leisure class" ) really interesting. It was written in 1899. Georg Simmels philosophy of fashion (1905) is another must have if you want to read more into this. I found it quite fascinating how the same structures and mechanics of expression and most notably, class distinction, have been present for ever when it comes to fashion in society. Really good reads, would recommend audiobooks

Really don't think it's a problem, me being working class myself, I just think we tend to approach this from the top to bottom than from the bottom to the top. Of course I'm tottally against fetishizing poverty and even homelesness, but working class-core or whatever it's called being introduced in high fashion and "humanly purchasable" pieces being elevated just makes it easier for us regular people to be put in the conversation (even though your clothes won't have that fancy logo on). It's crazy how from a certain period of my life I started to be noticed as a fashionable guy and I just wear normal stuff and of course try to style it well, I'm not even close to being able to buy a Louis V or Off-white, but still people around me who are able to get those think I'm cool. It's more about how you wear stuff than the logo on your stuff

When I was in Brazil, and on Brazilian KZfaq, there were many videos that roughly translated, "how to not look poor". Unfortunately, in many places in the world, people feel the pressure to hide their financial status. While that desire may seem less important in a first world country, it still persists. It seems like fashion is used as a way to hide some shameful aspect of ones life in order to be accepted by others.

I like this channel so much. I don't feel like I have to know every minute detail about fashion and be appreciative of it. For whatever this channel cares - the viewer can hate everything fashion related. Purpose of so many videos here is to simply educate about fashion trends, show why they happen and the sociology behind it. And it is done elegantly

I'm not a fan of styling outfits to 'look lower class', but on the other hand my favorite avant garde clothing tends to come from reinterpretations/recontextualization of utilitarian clothing. 90s Mountaineering Boots from Dirk Bikkemburgs, 00s Bunny Boots from Raf Simons, the recycled coffee sack jacket from pre-fall Margiela last year, Trippen has a boot I _wish_ was men's so I could fit in them [they max at an EU 42 and I'm an EU 45] called the canvas f that looks like a tarp tied around the foot, Margiela's Tabis are a reinterpretation of the traditional Japanese work footwear of the same name, punk fashion and the leather community's clothing have been massive influences on creatives like Walter van Beirendonck/Demna/Vivienne Westwood and originally come from a queer/working class background, and a bunch of the patchwork-like ideas that we see in deconstructive fashion comes from practices of the poor to make clothing last longer/reutilize scrap fabric such as boro and quilting. The common thread here in my mind is these pieces aren't 1-to-1 cosplay of working-class aesthetics but rather art made in reference to working-class ideas that stay true to the creator's lived experience. If you look at the creatives I listed, you'll see those influences as part of their life - Westwood was working class, van Beirendonck wasn't bad off but his parents were busy running a gas station so he was raised by other relatives before getting sent to boarding school, Raf Simons and Dirk Bikkembergs were both military brats, Yohji was the son of a widowed seamstress in a post-war Japan and Issey was living in Hiroshima when the bomb fell. I think for those artists and their brands, the coolness isn't the poverty angle but rather the history - the authentic lived experiences of the designers as working class children and young adults as well as their responses to that upbringing coming through in their art. I'm working class - I'm moving toward middle class now after a promotion, but I've been paycheck to paycheck for most of my twenties - and I started getting into fashion last year once I found avant garde and started sewing. The thing that kept me disinterested in it for so long was the inherent boring-ness of most fashion; you're going to walk into a dozen shops and look through thousands of articles of clothing that will be identical besides minor finishing details. It's mind-numbing. I live smack-dab in the middle of the US as well, so the closest avant garde men's fashion boutiques are 8 hours by car in Chicago even when I have the disposable income. I shop online, sure, but that's been rough without the ability to try things on or have things in-hand [prominent L being getting a pair of Guiseppe Zanottis secondhand that my foot fits in but doesn't have enough volume for me to zip up because EU lasts don't have as much vertical space toward the middle of the foot]. The best expression through clothing I can find is through distressing, making my own clothes [which I'm not great at, I have limited tools, fabric, and I just started], and recontextualizing other working class clothing. Patching/patchwork, bleach painting, alteration, embroidering, doing weird stuff with patternmaking because I don't have patterns and I'm doing a bunch of guesswork and having fun with it, these are experiments I do because I have to be creative within my budget limitations. When I see other artists doing that, it inspires me. When I see people dropping buckets of money as a shortcut, it's a little frustrating. That said, that patronage from the later is what makes the art of the former economically feasible in the capitalism wars, so they get a light pass. I will take a couple thousand fashion influencers I'm going to ignore anyway poverty cosplaying if it means I get to be inspired by things like y/project and xVessel.

My gf asked why I had a carhart jacket. I’ve had it for over a decade now. It kind of hit a nerve. It’s work and cold weather wear. Not a construction guy, I just used to do odd jobs, lawn care, etc. It was practical and common where I grew up. Now I see everyone wear it, which is fine, but only recently got odd comments, which i find… interesting

New to this channel, and lower class myself, I used to wear jeans with knees ripped up from natural wear and tear, but that was mostly inspired by 80's thrash metal, also after I got out of my skinny jean phase I wear super baggy cargo and fatigues pants, mostly for a mix of 90's style and a military look, with practicality from additional pockets as a bonus. I don't mind rich people dressing similar to us, as long as it's not for any reasons considered insensitive or tone-deaf

I got stains on my shirt that lowers it value but if Gucci puts a mustard stain on a white tee, it's drip. I love it. And I think I'm treating myself when I buy a Market or a Hypland shirt. Now im gonna go play Persona 5.

I was jus talking about this to my immigrant parents. Told them how it was funny we would go thrifting out off necessity 20 years ago, and now we see lil suburb kids adopting the Carhart work wear aesthetic while they never had to work and just make tiktoks.

Each aesthetic has not only a visual language, but also a set of values it's historically been linked to. The values it's linked to are always double edged: old money is elegant and controlled but at the same time stifling and arrogant. Working class aesthetic is percived as honest, laid back and wholesome, but at the same time - unkempt and unsophisticated. People choose their clothing according to lifestyle they have but also values they want to project. And since there's a lot of dehumanisation going for wealthy people, no wonder a lot of them try to show that "hey, I'm a human too!" It's actually interesting how people from different classes choose to communicate with their looks. Poor people try to emulate wealthy aesthetic to project "hey, I have value too, look" - when their value have nothing to do with wealth: for any other person. And wealthy people try to emulate normal working people to try to be more relatable or at least be perceived as a human)

It’s a weird one as someone who grew up poor wearing my brothers hand me downs that were second hand to begin with… I spent so much time as a poor kid trying to not look poor. Now I’m into my career earning well I still have a lot of the same buying habits. If I want to make a more expensive item I spend ages deciding if it’s worth it and waiting for time to pass to decide if I still want it. I note specific designer items and wait for them to turn up second hand. All the bullying for being poor kinda stuck and I can’t see myself ever getting onto the “working class core” vibes other than items I value for utility or sentimental items from my family like some of the stuff I have from my dad who’s passed away or clothing styles that remind me of him like worn in black stovepipe jeans

I can't wait for my dream fashion *wagie-core* to be popular and finally see everyone on the street wearing the same ill-fitting untucked uniqlo shirt and chinos on the street

Thank you for this thoughtful and validating take. As someone who at school would sometimes have to colour in my legs with marker to disguise holes in my trousers (Tammy Girl did not have my back, or knees) the fact so many trousers are sold with holes has always amused and annoyed me in equal measure! Now having a very diverse social circle in terms of class, it can be frustrating to see more privileged pals unconsciously appropriate the lives of my more working class / marginalised mates. These aesthetic affectations often come with a lack of transparency about privilege, and a politics that postures but ultimately drifts back into their milquetoast comfort zone. I don't think they even realise what they're doing, cognitive dissonance is a helluva drug. Clothes are political, I love that you recognise this.

i hate how when i was a kid everyone made fun of people wearing those chunky DC shoes and now high fashion brands have rip off "skate" designs like LV and Lanvin

as a gen z I did maintain my luxury clothing spending. it went from 0 to 0 cause I barely have money to afford any clothes, let alone something that costs more than several home repairs I can't afford.

Ahhg, I'm glad I'm 51. I no longer have to worry about fashion. I no longer have to be hip or cool quiet frankly I sucked at it my whole life.

Tuxedos began as servants' livery. Ironic ruch young hipsters cosplayed as the working class so much it became theirs and the butler had to get a different look. How about denim? Ultra work wear turned into pricey ruch wear. Love the phrase you coined. "Working class cosplay."

This situation of rich people cosplaying as “poor people” and people who can’t afford luxury items appearing “rich” is such an interesting phenomenon in recent years. One of the questions I’d pose to either party is why? Why are you dressing in that way? For what purpose? A lot of the times “poor” people dress out of necessity. A lot of the items can be unique and customized by the wearer, giving even more of their personality to the garments vs luxury houses are telling you this is what is cool, a version of their vision of what something like workwear should be. Essentially what I am trying to say is people who can afford to just buy a personality vs the ones who have personalized their clothing. Plus I feel like luxury item/expensive items are harder to customize since there’s the huge price you dropped and the potential resell value being risked. Vs someone who does wear out their clothes because they need to or it’s not as expensive so they can afford to personalize it. Anyways, love these kinds of discussions! 🖤

I work on a rig. FR clothing is expensive. I bought a shirt for like 150$. A week later I found a used one at a trendy thrift shop I was checking out to pass time while waiting to go to a comedy show. I fully support people selling their used work gear because I almost got a sweet deal on it but shit was way too big.

J'adore this commentary. It also beckons back to what I have been doing as a "lower" middle classman. I have a ton of high end attire which I use to wear to work. But I realized waking up and getting ready in these pieces was time consuming. Nowadays I wake up and throw on my scrbs and head to work. Nothing fabulous at all. Even when I am assisting VIP clients I tend to just throw scrubs one. They cost me more than your average scrub, but my point is "poor" wear is more conventional and dexterous.

Social media never influenced my fashion choice, mostly because I never had one, wearing hand-me-downs from siblings and wealthier relatives. But then I got into college. Most of the folks there dress well, while I struggle to throw together something that wouldn't look like it's from 2010s. Also, while some drive or uber to campuses, scattered all over the city, I walk unpaved roads and take public transport, so in autumn or winter no matter what I do, I end up dirty. If rich folks tune it down a bit with their outfits, I'll be glad 😂

What a unique topic Antwon! We rarely see these kinds of topics on youtube with also a reasonable amount of source evidence and informational background. I think utility is also a reason, why workwear for example is so big now. People reduce their consumerism and aim towards products with a longer life-time. The workwear clothing is shown in the real world that they can withstand a lot of stuff and are still in okay condition. With “archiv stuff” things on the other hand get another level of ridiculous, when a completely destroyed bomber-jacket is worth 500€. Dressing like the poor and its flaws is a insanely complex topic and will probably remain a few more days in my head, to think about it :)

Love the new essay formats xo just dont forget to keep the old clothes showcase vids about too

me sitting here in H&M jogging pants that were sold sort of unfinished so I had to alter them and a random hoodie while crocheting my next handbag out of wool scraps: "why am I watching a video about style"

Somehow the movie Zoolander was ahead of its time with their fashion line “Derelicte” 😂

I like to wear expensive clothes that look cheap, but are good quality. I’m barely middle class. I can never afford to own a home and my current rent is not very expensive because I can’t afford to move (my rent would more than double if i did), so i have some extra money. But i feel like these aesthetics happen in waves related to the economy. Rich people flashing wealth is not accepted as much right now because of how much people are struggling. A few years ago people tried to look richer and flashy because it was trendy to want to look rich, and people were judged more for being poor. Now most people are poor, the middle class is barely getting by. If influencers are flashing wealth, people are going to drag them.

i really appreciate the amount of research and citation you put into your content

I really appreciate how your videos have gotten smarter and more thought-provoking recently

One piece of clothing that sums this up is the Donkey jacket.

I wear the same 6-7 pairs of jeans I bought at Target on rotation every week lol… I dye them from time to time to keep them looking new as needed… some I just wear out and use for doing yard work around the house… i have purchased a few jackets because I like jackets throughout the last 10 years… still the same 4-5 jackets I use often because I like these jackets.. they’re like a denim.. thick warm in the winter and fit my style.. 2 are levis, different colors, 2 are heart and Huntington… I didn’t buy them because of the brand, I like their look and that they actually kept me warm when needed.. caring for them is a lot harder because I don’t want them to wear out too much.. shoes.. I just wear running/hiking shoes that I feel comfortable walking around in… they’re rugged and I can wear them year round practically anywhere… I have a few different pairs of shoes.. my trail shoes.. my “dress” shoes which are pretty much a cleaner looking hiking style shoe and my work shoes…my all day anywhere shoes are Nike wild trails that I got quite a few years ago.. I can use them at home, out on the street, trail hiking, out running errands.. whatever.. I wore out my first pair and had to get the same pair again because they were that comfortable and stylish for me… then there’s my vans trail skate shoe… still have that rugged look but clean… almost pass as a dress shoe for me… socks I just buy whatever’s comfortable thick and soft.. I’m not a fan of brands or big logos so I try to keep things like this to a minimum… I don’t like big and flashy though I have been putting some thought into incorporating something like this with more color because I do wear a lot of dark tones… black, browns, grey, army green, dark blues, burgundy… for me it’s about comfort really… I don’t care how “cool” something may look if I’m not comfortable wearing it, it’s not being purchased… I found a really nice leather jacket at a goodwill for $15.. haven’t wore it yet but I liked it and it was comfortable

Really enjoying the more sociological shift in your content recently especially from a British perspective

It should also be considered that workwear brands are USA legacy brands (some of the oldest clothing makers here) and they are more transitory in class because of their history I.E. carhartt and Levi’s Strauss created silhouettes that been copied by every brand

I started watching your videos because I been interested in techwar for a while and at first considered you a superficial pretty boy, but your advice was good and sincere, so I kept watching. I started enjoying your videos because you were making honest reviews of all kinds of brands that were really helpful. Then you started showing your sense of humor and how you don't take yourself and fashion all that serious and became a real fan. But on this video essay the analysis you make of aesthetic trends and your referencing Guy Debord's work really make me feel glad that I stayed. Kudos, extraordinary job sir...

I remember 40 years ago my mom buying me jeans with holes in them. My grandmother couldn’t fathom it.

I’m hyped the working class aesthetic from the early 90’s grunge and skate scene is coming back. Flannel, cargo, distressed and acid wash denim. All of those elements can pair nicely with the expensive street wear styles that have flooded the market.

the amount of information you put into you recent videos is nuts and i love it so much

This is my favourite of your videos that I've seen so far. Going into these more abstract concepts is excellent to see; thank you for the analysis.

Very thought-provoking video as usual. Everyone should be able to wear whatever makes them feel good. That being said, care should definitely be taken around class tourism. I also wanted to say that whoever you referenced who said that poverty is in any way cool is, to be blunt, full of shit. I've been dirt poor in the past. Nothing about it is in any way good. Being a week away from pay day, having £1.30 to your name & wondering how to eat for the next week wasn't fun, good or in any way cool. I sometimes wonder what 25-years ago me would think of current day rather more successful me. Trying to emulate that level of poverty while being much better off isn't all that far removed from burning £50 notes in front of homeless people. I also don't see the likes of Prada or Gucci making donations to homeless shelters or food banks, making me question the authenticity of whatever it is they think they're trying to achieve. Anyway, very interesting topic.

Really enjoying the vids bringing in postmodern theory and applying it to our current fashion landscape. (As a side note I’d highly recommend postmodern literature to see the theory in action)

I like the point you made around 8:50. Also I really like your Galaxy Explorer. Expressing yourself is the purpose of clothing for me.

A more philosophical approach is very much needed in our fashion discussion. You nailed this to a tee, Antwon.

Really been enjoying the more 'philosophical' type videos you put out lately! Keep them coming :) I do feel you put streetwear and working-class clothing too much in the same category. They are two very different things to me. Also Balenciaga's play on streetwear is very different from say ACW's take on 'working-class' clothing. The later is comes from an genuine interest in workwear clothing, its functional design. I personally really appreciate a good vintage (workwear) item. I think for me that has a lot to do with not wanting the fast-fashion, unpersonal clothing that is made with no attention to detail. A french chore jacket that's 30 or more years old has character/personality, which is very hard to find in a lot of clothing (apart from artisinal/very small brands). And the quality is usually 10 times better than any new item you can buy for the same price. Let me be clear: I definetely do not agree with spending/asking 500 euros on a Dickies jacket or a pair of Carhartt's, that's simply not worth it (it's equally dumb to me to spend 1000 euros on a pair of Jordans with plastic-y leather). Anyway just some thoughts I had and wanted to share.

I’m a 25yo welder and my favorite brand is Stone Island, when I was young I had to save a whole month to get my next piece. Love the workwear vibe and textile innovation, here in Canada there are no negative connotations, most people know it only from Drake. At work I only wear carhartt cause they make fireproof stuff

Suggested your channel to the young guy who works at my post office the other day, he is now a huge fan, so shout out to my post office youth if he is reading this!!! This is a fantastic video :)) RE the uniform, its funny how certain uniforms are still so deeply steeped in ‘ew yuck.. poor’ - I’m a midwife and I love how scrubs have never been ‘fashionised’ (at least widely to my knowledge) and it’s a real divide which I think is super intentional for consumers/patients to view you one way compared to doctors. It’s like a ‘grunt worker calling card’ and truly does impact on the respect you get (of course just going off of my personal experience here!!) doctors, even ones with more junior knowledge than me/my co workers are perceived in a more respected way due to certain fashion calling cards - no uniform, often they have ‘trends’ (in Australia, RM Williams boots are a heavy cliche) and then when they DO wear scrubs (for theatre etc) it has a very different angle to it, if they have to wear scrubs outside of the hospital it’s often paired with a stethoscope (so you know they’re a doctor!!!) idk if this makes much sense, but it’s interesting at least in an out patient department where we (midwives nurses) have to wear uniforms and drs don’t. On one day I couldn’t wear mine, I was treated very differently when patients assumed I wasn’t ‘just a midwife’ Anyway thank u great content as usual 🎉

Your videos are extremely nuanced, intelligent, and informative. Maybe this is why so many kids from the street become experts in street wear for these fashion houses. I am interested in fashion because my daughter wants to be a fashion designer. I’m as working class as it gets (sous chef/ex-soldier/ex-barber). And I noticed extremely rich people dressing like I used to dress growing up. Champion and Timberland are extra expensive. The way they use slang is bothersome because it’s mashed together with no sense of region. To an American from Brooklyn, hearing a kid from wealthy Midwest talk like us is like a person from Hampton using words that a scouser, scot, Londoner, and Irishman would use but in the same sentence. At this current stage in my life, I am shining my boots, tailoring/altering my clothes to look better, etc. as a working class person I need them to last. While they cosplay as us, I notice their clothes are ripped, shoes are dirty and scuffed, their clothes are half secured (half-tucked shirt/half button overalls). It made me wonder, “is this how they see us?” This video gives insight to a lot of those questions.

Dress hood all you want , but when the heat comes out , mofos will be running 😂😂😂😂

Nice video cover and title, it got me so good I clicked like before starting to watch it. Interesting stuff and thought provoking. Edit: and at the end of the video, I've definitely enjoyed it.

I'm not anything close to poor but I wear workwear because I want to buy the best. I live in the country / small town so it doesn't not look out of place. And ironically working people's clothing is the most functional and hard wearing. Why would I buy fashion items when they are objectively worse? I almost always buy new, real work wear (not Carhartt "WIP" etc) and the whole point is that tears and wear are less likely rather than intentionally wearing torn clothes. Carhartt, Dri Duck, Filson, Wrangler, etc.

I really like this video. I'm not "into fashion" or anything like that but I wear Carhartt clothes at work, and really enjoy the utility of just wearing it at home and out and about. It's weird shopping for nice brands like that at a store like Gabe's because I don't make a lot of money, next to someone hipster shopping to relist the item on Poshmark.

Indoor cats wearing work wear is endlessly amusing to me.

One thing I think is a confusion is the difference between working class and middle class. You can be working class and middle or even upper class, I have buddies who pull 80 hour weeks for 4 months straight welding pipe and come home with 150k. They dress working class because they are, but that doesn't mean they're poor

There's also something that needs to be talked about when touching on working class... The people behind the scenes in the fashion industry, for the most part comes from working class. If you go to the studios of those brands, in the creative side, you'll see that the background of the people is mostly working class... It's this idea of creating something familiar, "close from home" to them and to elevate it "for the mass". Back in the day, those brands were catering to an elite, to high society. Today there are talking to millennials and Gen-Z who have absorbed and are consuming fashion differently.

I have no interest in fashion personally, but you keep the discussion interesting. I also like the persona vibes in the background.

I love the very subtle tinkly music soundtrack on your videos!

This is what the first lesson Was about in my intro to fashion class

I remember a time when thrifting would cause people to call you broke and talk mad crap about you, and now it’s a huge fad. Crazy what some rando’s on the internet can do lmao (just to be clear I don’t hate thrifting and some of the best stores I’ve ever been to in Japan whenever I go are thrift stores, I just think it’s crazy how times have changed)

I don't understand fashion. I've always been a T-shirt, jeans, and steel toes kind of guy. I try to find the right balance between comfort, durability. Also, when working somewhere that allows graphic tees I do like to get prints that express myself and the things I like, whether it is artwork I commissioned of my original character when Walgreens Photo has a 50% off sale on everything including custom shirts, or something from a freelance artist's etsy that I just adore. I will give a few tips to my fellow working class peeps: Your jeans will eventually fail. Keep a spare pair. It's also worth paying an extra $5 or so to get something that feels more comfortable, be that a bit of stretch or a soft, flexible waistband. A pair of Wranglers usually lasts me about a year, so it is worth it. Do your homework on underwear, and what kind of material blends you should go for. I bought a 6 pack of great boxer briefs for under $20 that are basically identical to athletic shorts, but with an optional fly for those that make use of urinals (some women prefer shorts style underwear, and that's perfectly fine and can provide additional coverage to wick moisture and prevent chafing. Also if you're using a sit down toilet you should sit to pee regardless of genital configuration. That way you don't have it splash everywhere including back onto yourself, and don't have to worry about the stream splitting), and they changed my life. Well, I bought 2 packs. First ones were a bit tight and quickly began to come apart. Got the next size up and years later they're still like new. I wore cotton boxers before and always got a terrible painful rash all over my boxer area working into the hot, humid Georgia environment. Cotton shirts can also be hit or miss. The cheapest ones that can be bought for a few bucks new generally have a rough texture and won't last long. Meanwhile my cotton graphic tees are a nice comfortable knit with decent stretch and some have gone years without the fabric starting to wear. Just keep in mind that it holds onto sweat, so consider looking for something athletic in your price range. It doesn't have to be an athletic brand, just research blends that deal well with sweat like with your undies and I'm sure you can find something affordable amd comfy that isn't some big sports brand. For boots, only wear the Walmart boots until you can save up for a pair of Red Wings. Walmart boots don't last very long and are crazy uncomfortable even with good insoles. Also nothing like taking them off to find your socks soaked in blood because the inside has been cutting you through your socks. A good pair of boots will probably cost several times the rest of your work outfit, and the health of your feet as well as your pain levels depend on having sturdy, comfortable boots and preferably a good pair of insoles with either a built-in adjustable arch support or a pair that wrap around your feet with sticky velcro that you can pick up cheap from near where the ankle braces and such are near the pharmacy in your store of choice. If you're on your feet all day, they will help take the edge off without breaking the bank. There's always custom arch supports made specifically for your feet that your insurance most likely won't pay a penny towards, but if you're working on your feet all day that is probably a luxury you can't afford unless your feet are really bad and you absolutely need them to work. In that case, make sure you actually get them custom made overseen by a doctor from a place that makes physical molds of your feet. The places that advertise on the radio and have you come in and step on some pressure sensitive plate and then sell you "custom" arch supports for hundreds of dollars aren't what you're looking for. That kind of tech may be good for getting $60 basic insoles for your boots that will arguably work a bit better than the generic ones off the store shelves that need to be cut down to your shoe size, but for arch supports it is a scheme to sell prefabricated supports that are neither custom nor medical grade, but carry the pricetag of those that are. For socks, I'd recommend Heated Sox brand Thermal Socks. They change up the exact formula from time to time but you're looking for the ones that are over 90% acrylic with at least 1% spandex or elastane. They may contain small amounts of other fiber depending on when they were made. They'll also say 2.13 TOG rating whatever that means. I originally got some a long time ago for winter on sale, liked them so much I got them again on sale the next winter, tried them in the humid Georgia summer and they were still comfy AF, and now they're the only work socks I ever wear. They're reinforced for work boots, help keep the inevitable sweat away from your skin, have antibacterial properties, and I've never had a pair wear out on me like with normal white socks, even those made for steel toes. Only problem is they sometimes have some thread loops inside your toes can catch on. They recommend you turn them inside out and roll them onto your feet but I always just cut them off any new pairs and haven't experienced any adverse effects. I'm Autistic with big clothing texture issues and always hated the necessity of having to wear socks until I got these (and my plush house socks for winter). If any rich person wants to copy this style, go ahead. If it can keep me comfy without breaking the bank doing manual labor in intense heat and humidity while not breaking the bank, you'll surely feel much better while you sit behind your desk and have people bring you coffee or collect rent checks that cost more than a mortgage payment on the homes you're renting out or whatever it is you do. Just don't be wasteful. Wear the clothes until they fall apart, and if you tire of them before then donate them to a shelter or thrift store in a less expensive or industrial area.

Great Video Ant! EAT THE RICH etc etc. The popularity of street-ware specifically came from a double fetishization . In urban areas of large US Cities (read poor, black and brown) billboards for Polo Ralph Lauren, Hilfiger, etc depicting smiling youth of all races happy together doing rich people things cropped up everywhere. Ads of rainbow people in cable-sweaters hanging out on yachts that seemed to be crewed by no one for example, would hang over cage basketball courts, hanging over people who could never afford to buy them. Then hip-hop and b-ball players became icons and could afford it, so they started to wear those symbols of status in music videos and press conferences, and white suburban middle class kids ate it up. If you look back throughout history, where there has been class and fashion this has been a thing. It is both a problem and maybe a solution, like so many human things.

Ik graphic tees (hoodies too) aren’t considered “fashionable” and make you look “cheap” but can I just say I will probably never stop wearing them. If my job allowed me to wear them I absolutely would. I’ve always had an appreciation for visual art and bright colors, especially drawings and personally I enjoy someone’s original drawing/graphic design on my back/chest. Thankfully streetwear fashion has helped popularize graphic tops and make them “cool” to some extent, and many smaller streetwear brands create their own unique designs.

That part where you mentioned being bullied or made fun of struck such a chord. I used to get made fun of for wearing literal dad shoes and hand me down clothing, then 3 years later it was a trend. I still wear that shit, fuck a trend and fuck a trendhopper

I'm loving the new sociological approaches to fashion. Very interesting takes

Man, you've really leveled up your videos lately.

Wow, a shirt! Look at Mr. Moneybags over here! Had me pause for a laugh 🤣

By necessity of my job I have to go from working on a construction site to meeting in a boardroom. Definitely the two types of clothing are not interchangeable and not just for aesthetic reasons. Changing halfway through the day is a pain in the ass, but no way I'm going to ruin another pair of dress shoes, or show up dressed for a concrete pour when everyone else is wearing a suit. I see more fashion conscious people visiting the jobsite, and their clothes are like a parody of my work clothes, cut closer to body shape and made with delicate materials -- all about the look and not about function. I guess one day the trend will be to walk into a board meeting in clothing that is cut like a formal suit, but is made of rough materials that could survive a day on a jobsite.

This reminds me of the Neokitsch in cyberpunk. "This is the look of the ultra-rich appropriating the surface-level aesthetic of Kitsch without acknowledging its cultural motivation, warping it into a statement of abject wealth."

I work in a warehouse lifting heavy boxes all day while driving a cherry picker. So I mostly wear joggers (blackcraft clothing fits my style and they are good for work) and very soft tees, (or long sleeve tees,)Nike shoes that help my feet for ten hours a day. I mostly spend money on tattoos if i buy something expensive but that's saving months in advance to treat myself. I don't buy a lot of jewelry I wear the same silver jewelry I bought 10 years ago.

All this makes carhartt even more expensive for people who actually need it

Great video with a very clear idea and philosophy. Love the way you use the English language. Very smooth and interesting

Feels like a similar phenomenon to the romanticisation of things like Tuberculosis in the past and the romanticisation of depression nowadays. Hard physical labour and poverty are getting romanticized. Seems like an interesting topic for a thesis.^^

Did not watch the video yet but wanted to bring my thoughts out already. There is another casestudy of this in architecture, like a bed on the floor. if you are rich, this is classy, something modern and cool. If you are poor it's bad in taste and shows how poor you are. The styles of the poor and rich are very similiar, with the middle class being very different to both of them. Let's see how this video approaches this.

I love how you broke this down. I take major pride in my look. More than just look expensive I love how it allows me to express myself wether it's an outrageous fit or a tee and some jeans. I loathe that people are trying to tie one kind of look. It's dumb and it makes style as a whole boring. Dress for what makes you happy and gives you the most function. (but make sure it fits your body type lol) And as far as the theft of thrifting it makes me sick. Seeing rich people come pick these stores dry and then resell it to the intended consumers blows my mind. Like how rap tees were taken over by mostly white wealthy teens felt like the theft of my youth. It's class/culutral tourism at it absolute worst.

Sometimes the lizard man just want to fit in