World Cup climbers and setters exploring movements

Рет қаралды 105,130

Жыл бұрын

"In bouldering competitions, there is limited time and opportunity for route setters to explore new movements. Route setters are always under pressure and have no time to push new concepts to their limit. They often have to make quick decisions in order to split the ranking and create an interesting show.
Manuel Hassler (Flathold co-owner) decided to create a collaborative space and invited some international route setters to join two of the world's best competition climbers (Olympic Champion Janja Garnbret (SLO) and two-time overall IFSC Boulder World Cup winner Yoshiyuki Ogata (JPN).
The idea was to create a new playground for the setters and the athletes to explore route settings outside of the competition circuit and try to push ideas to a new dimension."
Featuring: Janja Garnbret, Yoshiyuki Ogata, Manuel Hassler, Pierre Broyer, Katja Vidmar and Gen Hirashima
Directed by: Mathieu Achermann
Camera: Joao Prates, Mathieu Achermann
Edit: Mathieu Achermann
Color Grading: Romain Do - Pandado Studio
English Subtitles: Natalie Berry

Пікірлер: 101

@joehertz8903 Жыл бұрын

I wish after competitions finish and the podium is done, the route setters come out and demo their intended beta! Would be hugely insightful

@seanhouchins-mccallum1961 Жыл бұрын

The setters wouldn’t be able to do most of the boulders

@thibaut4780 Жыл бұрын

They don’t need to do the whole bolder but indicating how they meant the bolder and also just knowing who is behind the bolder would be a great ad to the comps

@mayawitters Жыл бұрын

@@seanhouchins-mccallum1961I assure you most of the route setters can absolutely do their own boulders. They’re mad strong. It’s the four minute limit for competitors that makes it tricky

@llovebeats3749 Жыл бұрын

YESSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS

@connorperzely6754 Жыл бұрын

Bruh they are thrashed after setting and forerunning for a comp. They likely don't have much skin left at that point. That's asking a lot

@sefaa4089 Жыл бұрын

To see Yoshiyuki compliment Janja (and the other way around) was very cool. You don't get to see male and female professional boulders (at their caliber) collab that much.

@CameronWatkinsKerr Жыл бұрын

Can you imagine if ifsc Livestreams had this quality of filming

@hermannwigers8321 Жыл бұрын

This video makes me realize that the ifsc has a lot of work to do on the filming side of things in order to better convey this new bouldering style.

@tablechaise3211 Жыл бұрын

Absolutely, especially while live casting the competition (for example, not filming only from behind, a terrible idea to show the overhang/roof profile).

@themeatpopsicle Жыл бұрын

a lot more funding needs to pour into these events for a lot of the "wishlist" things (like more cameras etc). It all costs money, usually more than most people think. They'll get there when they have a slot on mainstream sports television and there are large corporate sponsors.

@RyanAnderson-ho6dv Жыл бұрын

Couldn't agree more. Hopefully the Olympics and continued popularity bring some more money to the production of IFSC events

@mlkdfs Жыл бұрын

I like dynamic style but it would be cool sometimes to see some beautiful static style boulders in competition.

@Airsofter3009 Жыл бұрын

It would be very hard to set because of how insanely strong these climbers are. Most of them can do one-armers on 8-10mm edges. They tried for the Olympics but it didn't work out sadly.

@dave990 Жыл бұрын

The top climbers are just too strong on static and crimps. It's almost impossible to set a line where all competitors wouldn't top it. Comp climbers arent just climbers now, they are pure athletes with incredible motor skills, dynamic power, route reading, shoulder strength etc! This new comp climbing style is also more impressive and far more entertaining imo than watching small moves on small holds. I certainly get what you saying though - they could easily do some hard replicas of outdoor climbs. Maybe they will... Maybe the occasional old school pulling routes will trend again in the near future as climbing and route setting is constantly changing and evolving ✌️

@victorriverieulx2297 Жыл бұрын

with the new dual-texture holds introduced this wc we might see some more very slabby static boulders which would be pretty nice.

@milksushi6640 Жыл бұрын

There was one boulder last season where yannick was the only one to top through a ridiculously shouldery move. Probably my favorite boulder from the season

@dave990 Жыл бұрын

@@milksushi6640 I remember that, it was insane and one of my faves too.

@merlinjover5689 Жыл бұрын

the productionvalue of this video considering the amount of subscribers is insane

@ChumX100 Жыл бұрын

It's amazing how modern bouldering keeps evolving and new moves are still being "discovered". The combination of strength, explosiveness, coordination, flexibility and creativity really sets this sport apart.

@BoulderingHighlights Жыл бұрын

Mathieu your colour grading is so good

@flatholdofficial2304 Жыл бұрын

Color Grading by Pandado Studio ;)

@shannonmcmurchy2618 Жыл бұрын

this is SUCH a cool project!!!!!! and i bet i'm not alone in saying it fulfills a dream of seeing janja and elite male athletes climbing the same boulders! just awesome - i have saved it, and shared it, and will watch many times, i think - THANK YOU FOR DOING THIS AND SHARING IT WITH US

@thedevon8016 Жыл бұрын

So cool to see Janja taking it on with the boys!

@fredericrodrigue3059 Жыл бұрын

Epic video ! Loved it. When I clicked on the video I was expecting unknown climbers that would try the boulders. Was hugely surprised when I saw Yoshiyuki and Janja. They didn't invite anybody :)

@maxwelln2948 Жыл бұрын

High quality content as always, wish there was more 😄

@C6lvxn Жыл бұрын

this is one of the coolest videos ive seen in a while, super well put together, from the ideas, to the filmography, incredible!

@middle-agedclimber Жыл бұрын

The evolution of indoor climbing is amazing to watch. Beautiful movement riddles.

@popotiger 9 ай бұрын

This is so cool to watch. Always want to see Janja try boy's problem. And it's good to know how route setter evolve their problems.

@Kiwivolant 3 ай бұрын

C'est incroyable de voir que les blocs qui semblent aujourd'hui normaux n'étaient il y a quelques années encore que des idées. Et c'est sûr que c'est vraiment enrichissant de voir les athlètes et les ouvreurs collaborer ainsi, pour expérimenter de nouveaux mouvements qu'on voit ensuite aux coupes/championnats du monde ! Ça donne une visibilité énorme et ça permet à ces mouvements de se propager partout ! Encore une fois, la qualité de ce court métrage est absolument fascinante. Bravo 👏

@robberthonetcf Жыл бұрын

Great video, awesome route setters and 2 of my favourite climbers. Can't ask for more... Wait, I can! More of this please! :D

@limlimlimjanice Жыл бұрын

I love how climbing is such a creative and collaborative sport!!

@IdiotsInCarsChina Жыл бұрын

Great concept and amazing production, but it is really disheartening to see such blatant disregard for the obvious safety hazard in the last boulder, a jump into a volume half covered in a slippery surface. Both elite climbers almost smacked their faces into it. I really appreciate the creativity and preparation time from the setters, but in the last problem it really looked like they were more interested in the spectacle aspect, rather than actually being a challenge and test for the physical abilities of the athletes.

@doruso5610 Жыл бұрын

Pls bring back some oldschool comps

@ndmtzn Жыл бұрын

this is porn for boulderers. extremely well done! thank you for creating this gem.

@BlocMonsters Жыл бұрын

This was such an awesome video to see the insight behind setters ideas in new movements and combining this with 2 of the best climbers in the world! Super cool to see how movement is being pushed further and further, and makes me excited as a Routesetter to see how this discipline is being further developed and explored!

@gramagon3680 10 ай бұрын

14:06 watch her bottom hand. How far it slides shows how she was just on the brink of making the move.

@estebanlahoz2788 8 ай бұрын

Nice video! Really enjoyed it!

@adrienl4949 Жыл бұрын

Perfect filming and editing, insane ideas and amazing climbers ❤

@stevensenant Жыл бұрын

Magnifique ! Ça fait plaisir de voir une vidéo comme ça qui montre le positionnement des ouvreurs internationaux lorsqu’ils cherchent à aller plus loin dans la création de mouvement dans un bloc ! Avec en plus la possibilité de voir des athlètes d’un tel niveau dans les blocs ça nous montre vraiment l’étendu de la difficulté que ça doit être de caler un bloc dans une compte internationale ! Avec en plus des retours en français qui font très plaisir 🦾

@anthonypearce2080 Жыл бұрын

Tobin! Instant like.

@jipe4153 Жыл бұрын

It would be fun if they could do some creative classical style boulders aswelll, closer to "normal" climbing but with fun new twists. Most of these boulders are like 1 in a million to find outside for example.

@andrewliu3730 Жыл бұрын

This video is so well planned and executed, nice work!

@ejl74 Жыл бұрын

This was dope! Love seeing the process.

@albinaabzalova Жыл бұрын

Incredibly interesting to watch!

@EpifanoEntertainment Жыл бұрын

Amazing

@user-zc8pu8hq1k Жыл бұрын

One of the coolest video I saw for a while, please make a series with this concept!

@laurena3460 11 күн бұрын

This really supports my theory that arm span is the only thing that would get in the way of Janja dominating on the mens circuit

@ghinwamoujaes9059 Жыл бұрын

Such a cool video & concept !

@Derfdurf Жыл бұрын

Great choice of music

@ragas4115 Жыл бұрын

This show and explain that setter are not on a single person “it’s a team” Creating and evolving in every competition Well done 🎉 Keep it up

@Leo-gy8lg Жыл бұрын

Amazing video!

@BlokCorp Жыл бұрын

Incredible as always 🤩🙏⚡️

@n3xa638 Жыл бұрын

Great video!

@andreacomisso926 Жыл бұрын

Top tier quality video 🔥

@oscarclereus5307 Жыл бұрын

Great video

@beouter Жыл бұрын

wow this is really good !

@felixvoytier9631 Жыл бұрын

Wow this was an amazing video ! hope it wont be the only one.

@justindoss3701 Жыл бұрын

Great video. Can’t wait to see what gym climbing looks like in 5 years. It’s already becoming so much fun. Good change of pace from outdoor climbing. I love both outdoor and indoor climbing, but for different reasons, hopefully haters can get on the same page at some point.

@zeMalreen Жыл бұрын

Masterclass ✨

@lidachay8664 Жыл бұрын

Amazing video and sounds selection ! We want more like this please !

@user-iu2oc5rq2m Жыл бұрын

sooooooo nice

@summatim Жыл бұрын

Summary was generated by Summatim, let us know if there are any inaccuracies! 🤖 0:07: Introduction 2:07: First Boulder 9:23: Second Boulder 14:51: Third Boulder 18:37: Conclusion

@aaronailwood4559 Жыл бұрын

Janja is a weapon.

@sorryforthat4792 Жыл бұрын

yoshiyuki is such a handsome man woww hahaha

@peetafile Жыл бұрын

@A.Y.M.910 2 ай бұрын

What gym was this made at!

@antonboschmann Жыл бұрын

Do someone know which makita impact they use?

@eric.jerome Жыл бұрын

WOW

@BiggieChungulus Жыл бұрын

I am severely jealous to the point of resentment. I would cut one of my own kidneys out for the chance to set a v1 at my local gym.

@zennydoo Жыл бұрын

Have you tried asking them nicely?

@sorryforthat4792 Жыл бұрын

incredible film, but as weve seen in the japan worldcup on mens final boulder nr. 4, its hard to make such difficult, complex moves in 4 Minutes

@Terralink24 Жыл бұрын

Well to be fair Paul Jenft looked pretty close to do the move, and Mejdi made it look pretty easy after the competition. I think sometimes the setters have to take some chances if it's not just gonna be a matter of who can do the boulders in the fewest tries

@ghinwamoujaes9059 Жыл бұрын

Maybe overcomplicating it but it would be nice if they gave one boulder more than 4 minutes. Then we could really see both Setting + Climbing creativity come to life. But of course, who knows if it works on TV.

@ghinwamoujaes9059 Жыл бұрын

@p3scful Жыл бұрын

@@ghinwamoujaes9059 I suggest giving extra time for climber who finish before 4 minutes For example, If route1 flash within 1 minute You have extra 3 mins + for the next route. 😆

@sorryforthat4792 Жыл бұрын

@@Terralink24 agree, but theres a certain limit with creativeness and complexness within boulders if the time limit is at 4min. maybe that one was close but you cant change more because 4min is like 5 or 6 tries

@MikleRe Жыл бұрын

Vidéo incroyable merci mais en tant que prévôtois je n’ai qu’une question en tête. Est ce que c’était filmé à la Petermann ? Bref désolé pour la question. Je me réjouis de la prochaine 👏🏼

@achermannmathieu8468 Жыл бұрын

Non le vidéo a été tournée à Bienne au centre d'entrainement de l'équipe suisse.