ITEMS I USED ON THIS VIDEO: - BULLFIX Drywall Anchors - amzn.to/3NVtYUO - GRIPIT Drywall Anchors - amzn.to/3vz13zh - WingIts Drywall Anchors - amzn.to/47sgJBZ - Spade Bit Kit - amzn.to/48AxewQ - Cordless Drill - amzn.to/48Axo7q

As a structural engineer, I don't recommend hanging anything more than 25 lbs from drywall; if anything is heavier, try to attach it directly to the stud.

I think most folks that have a bit of understanding of how sheet rock is made and that its not for very heavy things, would likely use these as secondary "no stud here" options but still use studs as well. I tend to use a horizontal metal bracket or even 2x4 if needed mounted to 2 or more studs, then hang things from that depending on the weight, especially a larger tv or mirror or something. But this is pretty slick how much one of these holds. I'd always use at least two if not three (or even more) to ensure the weight is distributed across a few.

If you are going to hang something like a TV screen or similar sized object that will hide the wall behind it you can just get a piece of plywood wide enough to reach the outer edges of the studs and tall enough for the mounting bracket and simply screw the plywood into the studs and then screw the mounting bracket into the plywood. That way you avoid attaching anything heavy into the drywall.

Project Farm needs to test this.

The problem with any of these types of devices is the use of the spade bit. If you press too hard while drilling you will blow out the backside of the sheetrock and severely decrease the strength of the device.

Very concise and to the point, no long winded "introduction".

I have used the Wingits for bathroom safety bars. They are the best I have ever used for hollow wall installation. The problem with all hollow wall fasteners is not always the weight pulling down flush to the wall. That has almost as much to do with how strong the drywall board is. Thickness would make a difference. A major consideration for many applications is how much weight pulling away from the wall. Shelving being the primary concern. Using any drywall anchor with shelving has this issue. I would like to see a test of how much weight or force it takes to pull it straight out of the wall.

I like the Bullfix the best but I would use a hole saw as opposed to the spade bit to reduce the possibility of blowout on the back side.

Why didn’t you do the test on a 16” stud to stud drywall? The way you did it has more holding of the drywall and technically drywalls are secured by 16” space between studs

I’d have a hard time of drilling a hole that large into my drywall for a wall anchor

I've been attaching things to drywall for over 3 decades. Came across these claws about 5 years ago and they are perfect for hanging light domestic items such as framed pictures, small carvings, kitchen implements etc. Never had a failure and easy to repair if we change our mind. Still hang the few heavier things using traditional techniques.

The Winglts cost $5.75 each & have to make a 3/4" hole Gripit cost $1.91 each and its not go flush with the wall also have to make a 3/4" hole Bullfix cost $2.37each & have to make a 3/4" hole The bigger the hole the more distance you have to give between anchors. TOGGLE 3/16" hold 802lbs and the hole is only 1/2" Cost $1.25 each 10 pack or $0.80 on pack of 100 easy to find in main hardware stores.

I’ve been in the construction industry for over 30 years and I’ve always used toggle bolts to hang anything into drywall. For light weight items I’ve always used the zinc ez anchors. Never had any problems with either except once when using toggles the toggle bolts actually loosened up a little bit after 2 years of heavy use. So I just went up the next size in the toggle bolt and never got a return call.

Thanks for finding these EHD anchors very cool

Bought the Bullfix after your review and LOVE them. Got the 10 pack and have used about half of them already. I've had a hard time in the past finding good anchors that really work and are easy to use and can't thank you enough!

Why does your test rig have the studs so close together? Why not have them spaced a standard 16 inch stud spacing to make it more a realistic test?

Several have mentioned that if you are hanging heavy items you should fasten into the wall studs instead of using drywall anchors. Often that would be better, but it depends on the studs. Wood studs are great, but metal studs can be problematic. For one, metal studs used for interior drywall partitions in homes are often the lightest duty made, 25 gauge or less. The issue with that is fastener pullout. In this case heavy duty drywall anchors are a better choice than fastening to the studs. Heavier gauge metal studs can hold fasteners plenty strong enough, if the correct fastener is used and it is also installed correctly. I used to do fine art installations for museums, galleries and collectors, and I've mounted some very heavy items on a wide variety of wall types. There is always a way, though sometimes it takes quite a bit of work. One pretty easy solution if the object will cover it, for example a large 50 kg mirror, is to make a French cleat out of plywood, making the wall half as large as practical and attach it to the wall with lots of heavy duty drywall anchors such as large toggle bolts or Wing-Its.

Zip toggles are good too, $1 a pop. I put 3 in and mounted a pull out tv mount 24". I can hang on it fully extended.

BULLFIX fixings look Great and have a right good 'name' online too. Four of these for say a TV Bracket would be fantastic and never fail.

Those holes are even bigger than a toggler bolt anchor hole I would just use those instead especially for tv mounting

Good video, informative!

Thanks for sharing. I have only tried the Wingit anchors and they seem to work good.

All seem reliable. Matter of personal preference. Sure helps when a stud isn’t available but always more drywall than studs. Walls are your best storage areas when floor space is filled. Great upgrades from older versions of anchors, thanks for showing.

I have used the Wing-it to install grab bars for bathtubs and showers and they worked very well.

Home run again, boss. This was something I've always wondered. Thanks a million.

Great test, thank you!

Thank You for your Knowledge!

Two words: Strap Toggles. I use those for most of my heavy wall mounting applications. No huge hole, ease to use, cheap, and plenty of strength because it distributes the force over a larger surface area than any of the anchors demonstrated here.

I live in Canada and oftenbuse these for projects but I find the wing design or butterfly design is the best.

Thanks so much for this video! I think the Gripit will work well for me in a bathroom that has had wainscoting placed over tile and a very small gap between the wainscoting and the tile.

Thank you, very informative video!

excellent presentation

Hello, Very well done presentation. Interesting products. 👍 I'd assume that in most cases one will be using more than one anchor and therefore their capacity will not be overloaded. Also in many cases the first two anchors can be installed for objects such as Towel rods, toilet papier holders and similar which once mounted remain for decades, but tend to be items that are often ripped out of the wall when mounted with standard anchors. Thank you for presenting them.

The anchors may be rated for heavy weights, but I would never trust drywall to hold up to that much stress over a prolonged time. Of the 3 I'd use the Bullfix, because it is easy to remove. Just unscrew to retract the wings, and pop it out.

I have used that third example in bathrooms where there were no studs. Used to hold grab bars. They are very strong

Testing the performance of the anchor in mostly a shear load scenario doesn’t capture many use case scenarios where the load is actually away from the wall by up to a foot.

Watching from Yosemite Kentucky. 😊

You do an excellent job thank you

Great video. Thanks

Wing-its are advertised at Home Depot as supporting up to 300 lbs. I've used them for stair hand-railings when there was no stud within an acceptable reach. After a couple years use they've held up OK I did not find them snapping in a 3/4" hole as easy as you did. I had to slightly enlarge the hole. I do think any test of drywall anchors should include an outward (pull) test as well as a shear test. Any heavy item of any thickness (like a TV mount) is going to exert quite a bit of pull force. Even if the manufacturer says not to use them for such applications, people are going to do it so it would be good to know if any of these are weak.

Gonna give them a test now 😎✌🏻

I would use a zip-toggler in 3/16 or 1/4 inch because they only require a 1/2 inch hole. Less problem to patch when you remove it.

Great channel. Awesome anchors, I will order some. BTW nice bowling equipment. I have the same bowling shoes 😊

Thanks!

So far, for stuff I might hang on drywall such as a cat shelf, I find the plastic screw in fasteners to be more than adequate. I have two cat shelves 12" wide mounted on 2 regular 90deg shelf brackets (3 screws in the wall each) that have taken having 14lbs cats jumping on them for years and they are still tight.

Thank you.

Oooo we need a bowling ball review next 🤙🏻🤙🏻

I added 4 grab bars in my bathroom and shower. I would have preferred to have attached them to the studs in the wall, but that was bot possible. I used the Wingits, and they worked great.

The Wingits are just a plastic redesigned toggle bolt. I like the Bullfix one the best.

Thank you

Thank you for a practical introduction to the fasteners. Ignore the windbag engineer and company. The real world has infinite variables that make accurate measurements entirely irelevant. I love your work.

Working trades I spend most of my time avoiding damage to drywall, main thing I hate about the strong anchors is having to drill such a large hole for it.

I would go with the Bullfix.😊

These are pretty clever products. A not too costly option. Initially I was very skeptical. But after watching the entire video I remembered how many times the important part of my favorite anchors have fallen into the cavity, requiring the number of actual anchors versus the ones lost, meaning profiting from the job and not having the expected return. I favor in the special fasteners when needed, but I can’t add more just because I lost them all n the wall. (I can, but that isn’t ethical.) I think I’ll be investing in these for a trial. Always open for a better option, especially when it reduces wasted time. ❤ Studs are ALWAYS the best way. However it’s not always an option to have them exactly where they need to be. My last experience with that was where the only (usable) stud was in the dead center. Another issue is when they are 24” spaced, and I have only a 16” spaced tv mount. Many of my jobs are in a high rise building with metal studs. Sometimes I’d like to simply use a lighter duty fastener such as these so I don’t necessarily want to deal with metal studs. A tilt only or flush mount, these would take 10 min. to do the job. Exterior or a shared wall, with insulation, these would really be a great option. ❤❤❤

i am happy with snap toggle brand. little smaller hole. won't drop the toggle. for any thickness wall. not saying they are perfect, but they hold a lot. if i used something to hold over 100 lbs., i think i would have to find a way to reinforce it within the wall.

Butterfly anchors are the winner.

Thank you , a channale that show fix home , not commercial contractor show.

The larger the hole, the larger the contacted area between the anchor and the drywall, which helps reduce pressure on drywall's contacted area. If they make a practicable simple plastic anchor as big (diameter-wise) as that, it will be able to support the same claimed weight.

I liked them all.

I use some plastic ones that work very well.

I think they are great for where no studs align but I still would stay half the weight. 4 anchors for a drywall for a 65 inch tv

I am amazed at how much weight drywall can hold. Your test was a bit flawed in the most wall studs are 16 inches apart, but still impressive.

Bro, do you do home renovations and remodeling and repairs and additions? I live in Beacon Hill, Seattle WA.

only problem I have with them all is the HUGE hole u have to drill in the wall board...... good review 🤠

I've noticed that your stud are very close to each other. It make a big difference in terms of strength of the dry wall.

How do you not include EZ Anchors, FFS? EZ Anchors pretty easy to install, and, in my experience, are more likely to pull the drywall OFF the studs than they are to surrender @ the anchor (Yes, literally had that happen. The whole drywall section was pulling off the stud due to a bookshelf (with lots of books on it) that I'd secured with EZ Anchors -- resecured the drywall and spread the weight across more EZAs, problem solved). And they're probably much cheaper than any of these 3, certainly cheaper than the first 2. Biggest issue with EZAs is avoiding the studs and any other internal bracing. EZAs are better than pretty much any other anchor for anything except brick or cinder block walls. And the holes, once it is removed (it screws right back out, and is even nominally re-usable, leaving a hole the bore of the EZA) are no bigger than a simple spackle application.

Great, I'll wallmount my 75 and 85 TVs !

Thanks for making this video. I found it very useful. I like the BullFix best, because it requires the least amount of clearance behind the wall. This matters when you are hanging something on a wall with insulation in it.

Load bearing code where i am is 16" on center. Thats a big span to try hanging anything over 20 pounds. Especially drilling big ass holes in my wall to fix later.

These all require a huge hole, and only work with standard drywall thicknesses (not thicker or less typical walls like plaster). For these walls, there are much better options like Snaptoggles, which require a smaller hole, are much stronger, and work with a much wider range of wall thicknesses. I looked into the Gripit recently, and of all of these, it is the one that offered a unique potential advantage- it only requires a very small cavity behind the wall. It only requires a 1/4" cavity, according to information I found on Amazon (even though this critical information is not listed anywhere on the product website or the packaging..). However, this potential advantage is irrelevant most of the time when you're working with standard drywall, and these only work with drywall up to 5/8" thick. That doesn't allow for a double layer of drywall, or slightly thicker drywall that is often encountered when 5/8" drywall has a thick layer of mud, and certainly doesn't allow for plaster. If they made a version of this that could work in 1" walls or thicker, with the same 1/4" clearance, then this would be a useful product that could work where others don't. And might justify the huge hole that you have to drill, and which for many people will have to be patched in the future. But as it is, none of these are worth using ever, as there are better products that leave a smaller hole and are stronger, and work in nearly any scenario where these will.

Keeping the 2x4 studs being so slide the wall can hold. But on a regular spacing it weakens the drywall. I rather go for the studs to hold in my opinion but that is good they are better then your average ones

Seem only for sheer loads, need data on rotational & axial loading.

The problem with American drywall is that it’s single sheet. Knock into it, you’ve got a hole. Kids throw anything heavy against it, you’ve got, a hole. Over here in Europe and depending where the wall is, it’s double sheeted. Yes, more expensive but super stable and robust.

They all seem to work okay but I still prefer the good old toggle bolts. Been around forever and always work.

Prefer the Fischer DuoTec fitting myself

Since the 90's I have been using SnapToggle heavy duty BA/BB Toggler and they only require a 1/2 (13mm) inch hole can easily support over 238 pounds (108 kg) in 1/2 inch drywall. They are less destructive to the drywall and are simple to use and readily available at most hardware stores. You should compare these and you see how much better and easier they are to use. @FixThisHouse actually covered these in a video about year ago.

Can use any of the anchors for hanging flat screen televisions

If you look closely on the front lip, there should be a small arrow. Place the anchor with this arrow pointing upwards. Why? Because the position of the "wings" when opened is important. :-)

None of these beat the traditional zip it for ease of installation.

I have a collection of valuable vintage guitars, and I won't use anything but Toggler's Straptoggles on the wall hangers. They're rated for 265 lbs. and they're a breeze to install. No, none of my guitars weighs that much, but I never have to worry about them falling off the wall.

What about metal studs? What anchor is best for that?

What would you recommend using 3/8 drywall?

Leaves a hell of a hole to patch later

How about an evaluation of tensile and shear using a 1/4" drill bit compatible anchor. Aren't we looking for the highest strength with the smallest drill hole while avoiding a protruding flange?

those are some massive holes needed for a drywall anchor

I'm sure that all of the anchors work well but I think a 16 inch center would be a more realistic test.

yeah, for how long of time it can handle that weights?

All the anchors in my opinion are decent products. However ONLY the Gripit is reusable and can be used in situations where the plasterboard is inches away from the wall (because only a small screw needed and provided to activate wing mechanism) example dot & dab plastered walls. The other anchors cannot perform the aforementioned tasks.

I’m a Industrial Engineer and also a metallurgist. Not to make a sham of your test, but in order to make a true test, the test wall needs to be at minimum of 16” on center, eight (8) foot high, 100% true and plum. You also need to have a couple anchors installed then you have a true test of its weight capabilities without the drywall self destructing. You have to hang minimum 75 lbs weights on each anchor. Your weight on one anchor is not classified as dead weight, your holding onto the wood studs. I also noted your tearing the paper backing while drilling out the hole. The paper also is part of what holds the drywall integrity intact. In reference to the Structural Engineer just prior to me I tend to agree anything exceeding the drywall manufacturer’s recommendation is not best practice. Anything beyond recommended manufacturing specs find the stud and use the stud.

I always use glue or epoxy to bond screw anchors in drywall. Drywall itself has little strength.

12.5 mm is 1/2 inch. 16mm is 5/8 inch.

The first one seems to be the simplest/easiest.

I have used the Wingits, and they claim 300lb sheer strength. I used them to install safety bars in a friends, shower. 1 time he slipped in the shower and later called me and said they worked well because he grabbed it when he slipped and didn't fall. He weighed over 300lbs. at the time and was grateful they were there.

Which one is Re usable? Not the third one.

What's best for full motion TV mounts?

You showed how two looked from the back after drilling holes but not the Bullfix one (?) 🤷‍♂️🤔

I AGREE snaptoggle will probably be superior- larger surface area and hole is not bigger-proven product .

And 3/4 inch is 19mm

I looked at the price for wingits and, OUCH! $5.70 each! They would be great for my old house with drywall over lath & plaster but that's too much for my budget. I'll be sticking woth the screw in anchors for now.