@@Toots807 I hope it helped!

Great! Glad to hear you saved some serious $$!

Glad you found a solution!

That's great! glad it helped

That's a great idea on the tie downs! Thanks for sharing

Thanks for the feedback, glad it helped!

How did the seal replacement go? I have to do mine soon

Oh, it's still waiting on me, ha ha. All the parts are ordered and I keep putting it off. I really need to get on it.

@@BurlyNerdGetsTheWorm I have the gasket and lock ring and will be attempting it next week, mine only leaks around the fuel pump when there’s a full tank

@@BurlyNerdGetsTheWorm worked on my leak this week, turned out to be a crack in the fuel pump housing and not the gasket

Fantastic!

did this fix hold up? i am about to have to tackle this myself

@@austin.gresham same question tho: did the fix hold up? everything good after this? cant believe mopar/jeep thought it was a good idea to make this not replaceable...

@@penguiin12 Yes, the fix held up. Ultimately, I also had an issue with the fuel injectors being the real culprit of my rich condition codes, but this fixed the pressure issue.

Wow! I live in Ohio - definitely hear you on the road salt. Thankfully I only broke one.

Thanks!

Thanks for the great feedback!

Glad it was helpful!

Glad you liked it!

Thanks for the sub!

Thanks!

Hey Mesheezy, sorry I didn't see this earlier. The fuel pressure gauge gets connected to the fuel rail under the hood. You need the adapter, though.

I can't recommend a specific brand based on my experience. I often use Rock Auto and they have a lot of choices, some with ❤ next to the ones that have received top reviews. I would start there. I avoid the "economy" category and usually buy the "daily driver" parts.

Glad you liked it!

Hey, thanks for the compliment on the video. Glad it was helpful! As far as the rollover valve, it's connected to the EVAP system which is very picky about pressure. The EVAP is not high-pressure like the fuel line and there is no fuel that runs through it, but there are fuel vapors. I'm not a chemical expert so I don't want to recommend using a rubber hose in its place or tell you it won't work: I am not sure. The rollover valve is just a check-valve that shuts off the fuel line if the vehicle rolls over on its side or upside down. If you got the EVAP DTC codes after you snapped off the connector, then that's what's causing those. As I mentioned before, they are connected (EVAP and rollover). If you already had those codes, sounds like you have another leak in the system. Very common are a leaky fuel cap (cracked) or the EVAP canister under the Jeep. You can also check under the hood near the EVAP purge valve, sometimes the plastic hoses get pinched near the battery and cause a leak, or they melt when they touch the EGR tube.

I knew you would answer my question...but hey thanks a lot for the quick response and very detailed explanation (KZfaq mark this answer as highlight)...I never imagined that valve shuts off the vehicle (Jeep Rubicon In my case) if rolls hence the name of course) I'll check all the sections you mentioned for possible cracks,melts or loosen hoses...Thanks Again -kudos

I just looked it up, the filter is part of the assembly, not really serviceable.

@@ht9565 Correct, it's all one unit: glad you got that figured out before you wasted your time! As far as the install you are also correct - I did not detail that. Just the reverse process starting at about 09:25. Good luck!

Just finishing up the fuel pump replacement. Going back was definitely not as easy as dropping it, i used cribbing and jacks and back and forth until got everything lined up finally. Did you say the torque for the tank mounting or the 21 mm bolt that you had to back off. Also, at the end of your video, you primed with the gauged still installed to verify pressure. But then what did you do? Did you pull the fuse again to kill the motor and relieve pressure to take the gauge off and reconnect everything? I am thinking of skipping that step and just reconnect and cycle the key, not sure how many times it takes to build pressure.

@@ht9565 Looks like I neglected to mention the torque specs for those! The 21mm for the lower control arm is 125 ft lbs and the bolts for the fuel tank skid are 30 ft lbs. You are correct about the gauge at the end. If you're confident that the pressure is good you could skip that step. It takes only 2-3 key cycles to build pressure. Congrats on getting it done!

What do you mean "going to?" It mostly has 🤣

Could be. The only way to know for sure would be a fuel pressure test. Since you're getting lean in both banks, it could also be a vacuum leak. I just had lean codes in another jeep and it turns out the PCV valve was stuck open - that's a $15.00 fix that takes less than 30 min. Replacing the pump, as you saw in the video, is more expensive and takes longer. If you have an OBD scanner, it would be interesting to see what the fuel trims and O2 sensors are saying (how lean are you, and is the STFT and/or LTFT "pegged" lean)? Lean can also be caused when the system stays in Open Loop mode, which can also be a bad temp sensor - coolant, intake, MAP. A good OBD scan tool can help narrow all that down.

So, without seeing it, here's my best guess at what you're describing. The red ring stays on the end your trying to disconnect from. Press the gray button and pull that side away from the red ring. Does that make sense? I think what you're describing is the connector at 1:32 in this video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/sMyljLeby9rPdKM.html If not, it's bound to be one of the ones described here. Good luck!

The best way is to check the fuel pressure at the rail. Sounds like the regulator, but it's all in the same unit so you have to replace the whole thing anyway. Could also be a leak in the fuel line, but you'll most likely smell gas if you garage it. Get underneath and check all the lines and connectors to be sure.

Austin Gresham thank you for the information!

Hmmm... wondering if your fuel pump is going bad? Or the relay/fuse/wiring to the fuel pump? You might also want to check the fuel lines and make sure there isn't blockage, kinked hose, etc. A pressure test would help narrow it down.

@@austin.gresham Thank you!

@@rogerpena9590 Don't thank me yet! I may have completely mis-diagnosed the problem 🤦‍♂️

Yep, everything is in the fuel pump assembly.

I typically use the JB Weld that comes in 2 separate tubes instead of the one that supposedly mixes as it comes out.

Sorry I meant gauge.

The gauge is connected at the fuel rail. Check out the first video (link in this video's description) and it will make sense. There is a MOPAR adapter you need as well, also in the other video. Good luck!

Sounds like the EVAP to me. Maybe a cracked line. The EVAP connects to the rollover valve, the gas filler tube and up to the engine: all with hard plastic lines.

Hi ntransam. Unfortunately, I still have the codes. I think it's the cheap injectors the previous owner used when he was getting a misfire. They are Bosch injectors that I can only find on Ebay, so that's not comforting. When I get a spare $800 I will be replacing all 6 with OEM-quality ones.

I will say, though, the fuel pump did need to be replaced. It was not putting out the proper pressure. It was probably the regulator, but it's all one unit so you have the replace the whole pump assembly.

It came in a "roll pin" kit from Advance Auto

Great question! I used a pin slightly bigger to make sure it didn't get pushed farther into the rollover valve or farther (away) down the evap tube. Seemed like a good compromise between just right and slightly oversized. More of a game-time decision than anything. If you have success with the 3/16 please post!

I did not remove the muffler - it's not in the way of anything. Good luck!

@@austin.gresham thanks! I dropped the tank on a rusty TJ once, this time it's a not so rusty JKU. Hopefully it goes smooth! Cheers!

@@austin.gresham Hot damn, I've got it dropped, and thanks to your warning I did not break the evap nipple. Now just have to tackle the lock ring but the hardest part is over, except for lifting the tank back up. Thanks again!

@@danbowen710 Great!

I suppose you could come from the top, but to me that seems like more effort than dropping the tank. I am not near mine right now to double-check, but there may be other frame components (cross members, maybe) in the way as well. Before you look at replacing the assembly, have you checked to make sure the level sensor is working properly - checking voltage, resistance, etc - before pinning the sensor as the culprit?

@austin.gresham I'll take a closer look before I do any cutting. I've seen it done on a jeep TJ and thought I'd ask since you've been under yours. First, it was reading 3/4 tank at a full level, then would only go to 1/4 full. Now it stays on E. Sometimes, it jumps up to 1/4 again. Thanks.

Thanks! Mine is also an '08

😆

That is correct

Unfortunately, not from replacing the FP, but it needed to be done anyway. The ultimate fix was replacing awful aftermarket injectors with OEM ones.

@@austin.gresham thanks. I did see you told someone else it didn't work. I have a missfire cylinder 3 and p0171 lean. Just bought my 09. Changed plugs wires and coil. Injectors were next cuz still have the codes after clearing. That's how I found your videos. So a great job explained and pointing out the bolts and part numbers. Love it!! Mine has 206k miles. Regular oil changes, but most other things look to be original. I hate fake videos where everything goes perfectly. NEVER HAPPENS. 😝

You can find an assorted pack at just about any auto parts store. Or gun store

Hi Mindaugas. The ones I used were Dorman 13850. You can find them at any auto parts store. This is an assorted bundle, so find the one that is slightly oversized and drill it out. I used a 13/64" drill bit. Sorry I did not reply sooner!

It's part of the EVAP system which basically burns extraneous gas fumes instead of venting them to the atmosphere.

I did not. In my case it was mostly sand, rock and other grit. It wasn't rusted/seized like a normal bolt where heat would have helped. Plus, a gas tank.... not sure heat would have been a good choice

Yeah, it was not fun... good luck!

@@austin.gresham Thanks! Only broken one clip so far lol

Ultimately I had to replace the injectors to fix the CEL I was getting (Rich condition in all banks). I never got any EVAP CEL's but if I had not fixed the rollover valve it definitely would have. Short answer: if you break the EVAP tube, fix it before you reinstall the tank.

​@@austin.greshamDo you remember what brand the injectors were that were giving you the rich condition and what brand injectors did you replace them with?

@ntme9 Yes, the old ones were Bosch. I replaced them with MOPAR OE injectors.

When I wrote this up she was at 173k

233k on mine

the skid plate? 🤔 didn't think of that!

This was not a misfire, it was fuel too rich.

Dis it fix the too rich issue?

Any auto parts store should have them, check their website

@@austin.gresham thank you 👍🏽

JB Weld clear. For this one, I bought the "pen" with a plunger that mixes the two as it comes out of the end. I still mix it a little more by hand, though.

Awesome! Thank you!

P.S. thank you for such a helpful video 🙏🏼

@@kelseymccarthy6942 You're welcome!

One more question, what drill bit did you use? Having a hard time finding a 13/16

LOL! Good point... now I'm going to be thinking about that

Bummer.... that's expensive.