Great video, for Stranded wire. The "Western Union or Lineman splice" for Solid wire is good as well. I like using the lineman splice on stranded wire with shrink wrap, it seems like a stronger connection. Thank you for videos and stuff you showcase on your channel.

That's actually fairly close to the NASA method. In theirs you twist each end to a small hook and twist them back around each other and crimp so you have something like a super tight chain link, you then solder the whole thing. It makes for a very strong bond as well as a perfectly good connection.

Slip the shrink tube on before you make the connection in case you can’t slide it over an end of the wire! Just a tip!

can you put your belt up on the store?

Great video.. I myself switched to using the self silicone shrink tube.. It works great with one less step.. Peace!!

AND keep it far enough away from the soldering job that it doesn't shrink up before you can use it...! >_

@@simonbelanger3923 ⛪

Been there brother.

Ha ha, I’ve done that a few times myself...very annoying.

@@simonbelanger3923 Exactly, and normally you don´t solder a black wire ( - ) together with a red wire (+) ... :)

Haha awesome 👏 didn’t even notice, I’m sure it’s for demonstration purpose, since it’s a soldering tutorial not a wiring tutorial

That's not what bothers me the most, it's the way you Yanks pronounce 'sodder' and still call your language English!

@@Globerson Yes Matt, the L isn't silent and in case you too want to be able to speak English correctly the O as in 'so'. I just can't understand how you've managed to muck up our language the way you have since 1607. I mean look at 'aloooominum'......!

you son of a bi---

@@richardd3663 You can't give the yanks a hard time when we are just as bad at our own language. Go to Birmingham, Liverpool, Bristol, Edinburgh, Newcastle etc. and tell me their accents are easier to understand than an american.

Same, because you never know, amirite?💫

@@Fgbjdhdbccvx we are all subject to the algorithm

I am literally watching this at 4:36 am after coming home drunk from a party in a dormitory

4:15 am ... so close

this info is useful for fixing copper pipes, too

That is correct

kaboom

Ofcourse

Looks like an led trailer light plug/harness so it wouldn't matter

Lol thats pro

Do you know what the black strand he was holding over the wires? Was he melting something into it?

@@michaelkuhn6619 hey that was soldering wire or solder for short! One of the most commonly used ones is 60/40 meaning 60% tin and 40% lead alloy solder. So basically he twists the wires, anchoring them and then heats the twisted wires using the soldering iron bringing them up to the temperature that would melt the solder wire. He then applies that solder wire to that join, which has now heated to the point of being able to melt the solder. The solder melts nicely over the joint and fuses it together. The paste he applied at the start the rosin is used to remove any corrosion and impurities from the surface of the wires so that solder will cling nicely on to the joint.

I've done that more than I'd care to admit lol

Looks like i'm not the only one

Clay Willoughby I've done this enough to know better now. There's nothing more aggravating than forgetting to put it on and realizing that perfect soldering job you just completed was for nothing.

Was anyone worried that he was soldering a red wire to a black wire...?

Viktor Orban In the USA, Black is Live and White is Neutral.

Tinning the iron does the double duty of transferring the heat faster and it protects the tip from corrosion while it's hot.

Without it, I tend to melt some insulation by the time the solder flows through.

The only issue is that while many of grandpas solution are viable, many are no longer relevant. That is why many people do stupid things while work8ng on cars. Stuff was made differently

I mean they meet up somewhere

Use a mini butane torch and it’s three times faster

With you bud👍🏻😉😊 🇬🇧

Like what exactly...?

Like how not to solder wires together.

@@ehtcom What was wrong with what he did?

Yep, and it’s very difficult with high amperage wire that runs directly to the battery. Even 25A wire running to a motorcycle battery is quite difficult

So true! I always seem to end up with a twisted up mess!

I'm with you, everything is easy on the bench with clamps... hardly real world

While the thing is still on

@@MS-fe3vo XD yes

It’s cute that you think anyone cares

@Loli4lyf it’s cute that you think I care about a random person’s opinion about my profile picture which I don’t want to change because I don’t have to

LOL - this made me chuckle 😂

Is it true that the lineman splice or Western Union slice is designed for solid wire?

see how this made you into a pro, wow!

Tinning actually involves applying solder to the work area then wicking it off prior to performing the repair. What this does is remove surface oxidation that could prevent solder from flowing and aid in heat transfer. Adding solder to the tip of the iron is technically called "seasoning." This should be performed after each use of the iron to prevent the tip from oxidizing and extending its life. ...I taught high reliability soldering for the Navy. 😆

@@EenChristJesus yeah I only watched a couple of seconds of the video but the guy definitely doesn't seem like a pro

@@Eric-xh9ee of course he isn't a pro, he doesn't even know why he is putting solder on the tip before soldering, nor does he have proper soldering equipment that's the wannabe do it all the "it's not dumb if it works"

Ikr? I'm watching this in December. So, now I have to ask Santa🎅 for a Soldering kit🤷‍♀️🤣 *sigh* That'll be the perfect 🎁 gift for me this year🤗🤪 Then, I'll have to find some wires that need soldering...now, if I can only get my friend to walk away from his car🚗, with the hood up & battery out, of course......🤫*snip! Snip! SNIP!*✂️...🤭...🤔Hmmmm....It seems that my friend was not aware that he had some cut wires here😲! Well, as his friend, it is my duty to solder them back together🦸‍♀️ Thank Heavens that I watched this video!!!😁

"Why it take ten minutes ?" Guessing you work for "angry Asian".

Make a video

Mil spec soldering... I'll be dammmmd

True! 3:1 shrink tube with adhesive is my favorite!

He did. lol

Freefallpilot65 you do it while heating the wire it useless the way he did it

Absolutely correct. That puddle on the tip helps transfer the heat to the joint. It also helps to put the flat part of the tip on the joint.

Indeed, increases heat transfer. Makes solder flow faster and avoids burning things up.

absolutely, and the wire is probably bare tinned copper no need for flux

@@restopesto9448 saaame, it's amazing, never had an issue with it.

rjtumble only put on the loctite when you are using an arc welder °F4000 and a Helium shield.

god damnit! lol

LOL 😆 👋 to the Welder !

Not the worst way. Cyanoacrylate has good tensile (pulling) strength but a bunch have poor shear/modulous (flex). For prototype electronics its fine. But something that is inside an engine or say phone charger cable; probably not so much.

In this particular situation, I would recommend taking a swig of loctite prior to the challenge.

underneath gives a better spread

I thought this was how everyone was taught to solder, how were you doing it?

Same... don't know how strong the joint would be, but it does seems marginally better than just spinning them normally

Hello there👋👋,how are you doing today?hope you’re doing well?God bless you!!❤

Hello there👋👋,how are you doing today?hope you’re doing well?God bless you!!❤

The 3-1 marine type heat shrink works well. It also hardens afterwards, good for some applications not so for others.

Your kidding, right?

Pretty sure that's the basis of his entire channel haha.

@@Andy-im3kj Yep - and why not? Seems to be working. Might motivate those with higher skills to do a proper instructional.

Wheres your video on soldering? " cricket ,, cricket "

Let's see how many likes you get on you cricket remark. Friggin' fanboys.

he does not have a clue!

I understand the Western Union splice was designed for solid wire but not stranded wire, is this correct?

@@dwaynemcallister7231 2 year old comment wow haha. That could be true. I'm not sure. We used it for stranded in school. But either way it works :). The main thing I was taught is that it doesn't really matter what form of splice you use, it has to be inspectable. Meaning you have to be able to see the adhesion of the solder joint and not just a blob of solder, and if the solder wicks up into the insulation it's no longer inspectable.

because the wire was free on either side so he didnt have to. if this was a real connection he was making then yes u would put the heat shrink first to one side

As I understand it, Cody was right to want to tin the iron. Though he ended up keeping a blob of solder on the iron. To tin, he needed to apply the solder then flick excess off, thus keeping a thin layer on iron only.

I know you should use proper flux for the proper job but I've used an old tin can (or steel? not sure) of nokorode that's been in the family since my great grandfather, and while there's still flux left in there we probably won't buy anything new because it does the job and it does it really well, provided you clean up afterwards (isopropyl and a nail brush). The only issue with it is the fact the binder is a really nasty thick grease, but honestly I'd rather take that over the horrible liquid flux that's really popular, I should also say I would probably get real electronics flux paste if it was sold where I live, but it isn't so no luck on that front.

Hey buddy where can i get electrical flux

From a Flux Capacitor,maybe?

@@samborez8089 true

yea soldering 2 different colours together

Not all shrink has glue

Yep you can tin the bare wire when joining to solder pads ECT and also should run the tip, him wiping it on a cloth is not tining anything lol

Let me explain a few things... 1. Tinning the tip of the iron is done for a couple of reasons. First is because as the iron remains heated, corrosion forms on the surface of the hot solder. Second is to tin it so you have extra solder to wipe off the corroded solder just like he very poorly wiped it on the sponge. Corroded solder should have come off onto the sponge leaving freshsolder behind. Third, you need a proper amount of solder for sufficient heat transfer. His wires took so long to heat up because he didnt have enough solder on his iron. By having a larger fluid surface, you come into more contact with the wires surface faster than pressing just the iron. Notice how once he started adding more solder it wicked up the wires and how once it was 90% coated he was able to reflow it super fast? Proper amount of solder makes for faster heat transfer. 2. Joining method doesnt matter as much as how well the solder flows into the wires. If the wires are properly soldered (regardless of joining method) they will be very difficult to pull apart. If they pull apart easy, its likely a cold solder joint or not enough solder/flowed solder. 3. The flux he used is 100%unnecessary if the wires are clean and the solder already has a flux core. However if youre having difficulty creating a good flow of solder, the flux will help tremendously.

Dave White stfu no one cares.

Crimping is NOT better for splicing wires; solder is preferred method. If you have enough movement in the wire that solder is going to break, the wire is going to break anyway. Signed UH-1H crewchief!

It is not allowed in the NEC either. Current will heat the solder and it will fail. If you use in automotive I don't think it would be a problem if the conductor is large enough and your current is limited by a small amp fuse.

He's obviously talking for 12v applications, he did say trailer.....

Terry Pendergrass - I've just looked at the FFA's Aircraft Electrical Wiring Interconnect System (EWIS) Best Practices, and it says nothing about soldering being a preferred splice method. What published standards do UH-1H crews work to?

Don't use a large heat gun. You should use a temp controllable soldering iron. Hakko is a very popular, quality and affordable brand. Use a fine point soldering tip and use flux. One way to keep from melting insulation on small wires is to take needle point tweezers and put them in a small vice or zip tie to squeez and hold the wire just before the insulation, not touching. The tweezers will act as a heat sink and prevent heat from transferring up the wire. Aim for temp of around 600-620. They may narrow tip aluminum alligator clips and special tweezers with tips designed for this purpose, but at home most people have a pair of normal tweezers.

Free WiFi

David Lingelbach yeah if your using the correct solder for electrical, rosin core typically. You do not need flux. If you do use flux it's a good idea to clean the joint once cooled because certain flux can actually cause corrosion in the joint overtime

if you are joining well vertdegred wires additional flux is a good thing, a new wire would be better but not always an option

Its so the solder dont jend up being just a coat around 2 disjointed clumps of multicored cables.

I've found having liquid solder flux is handy for electrical work, sometimes you need a bit more flux than what's in the solder itself, especially if your iron tip and/or exposed wires have a bit of oxidation. The liquid flux soaks in between the strands of multi-strand wire better than the paste.

Joe Van Cleave yes especially if you have aged components with steel lead wires (like most), if I do any through hole work I'll use rosin flux pen if I have it, if I'm doing surface mount it will be that other stuff with non rosin solder or solder paste with flux in it, it's certainly not a sure thing to use row in core solder for everything but for most people it is adequate but not optimal without additional flux, for joining clean new wires like the demo it would certainly suffice

@Leon thecat yep I have several irons and guns. The right tool for the job at hand does wonders. oh, the little drop of solder on the tip gives better heat transfer. you should always get the wires to melt the solder tho for the actual soldering job.

Hot glue, to be precise, yes.