I agree especially with the weight reduction of the QA1 parts. This is the type of projects that shine on this channel.

A new rail wouldn't have the same quality of metal either. And it could be either better or worse quality, neither good for the car. If you HAVE to do the left rail, you have to do the right rail too, because what happens in time, is you end up stressing either of the two (depending on which is weakest) and then you're back to square one. Patches are the way to go on such a small booboo.

Agreed-drill and patch the original.

Perfection is the enemy of good enough. Drill and patch. Drive and enjoy!

I agree with all the patch and repair. However, I think it should be done before installing new parts. A good repair will be undetectable. Drill the ends of the crack. Weld and grind to the original profile. Cut out any rust, patch and grind. Coat with Rockguard or similar and nobody will be able to see the repairs 🤩

After doing some paint and then having to rebuild a big section after the mechanical build out, the ‘pretty’ stuff should get fully built out to a finish, then get the final body work and build out to make sure it’s what I wanted

I absolutely agree with “mocking up” every part before finalizing the metal work/bodywork/paint. I learned this the hard way many years ago, and I’ve been reminded of that lesson many times over the years! When building different cars-especially for the first time… i never failed to forget a minor detail “test-fitment” before having paint on the car🤦🏻‍♂️! It’s at this point you start praying whatever bezel, grill, or stainless trim piece that borders the paint fits as it should without gaps! Consideration of details like these and being methodical are what enable my 45yr old example to out perform the 21yr old version that was full of energy-and mistakes! 🤦🏻‍♂️😂 By the way Jared, I love the satellite, the frame rail should absolutely be repaired as it is. Those areas are prone to damage from potholes-even on cars with no rust. I’ve seen much worse damage where those (welded nut) K-frame mounts are repaired and never fail. Having new rails is a wonderful option for body rot and collision damage-but trust me-replacing them is extensive process! I say mock up every single piece on the car, use all the nuts, bolts, and shims, to make the panel gaps right. You don’t have to install the glass, trim-clips, or trim-screws but I would ensure you have new stainless trim clips/screws for everything (just lay them in the channel to be sure-then bag them back up. Remove any old clips and screws from the body-allowing you to place & check the trim fitment against where the painted edges will be. Once all of that stuff is done gather a group of car buddies together for a careful Saturday tear down while you document everything in a notebook just for the satellite. Tag and bag every bolt, washer, nut, and screw. As you remove each panel bolt-write down how many shims are there, if something needs attention here, or missing bolt here etc. The time you will save by doing that will expedite the process…making the end result SO worth it! I built a 70’ satellite around 2009. It had to have the trunk floor, trunk extensions, quarter patch panels(lower rear), the outer wheel tubs, and drip rail patches(rear window corners) all of the sheet metal came from AMD. Ive done quite a few like this, I’m sure you probably have too, but if you happen to get stuck on something, need any advice, or some tips/suggestions you’re welcome to contact me brother. I’m Ryan, and here is my email😊 Midnightoilsrestoration@gmail.com Good luck on the build, I’ll be following along, you’ve got a great channel 😊

My father has that exact 66 Goat with 389, awesome car.

70 roadrunner was only offered with a HP 383, 440 SixBarrel, or 426Hemi. To get the 440HP you had to get a Superbird or GTX. Sounds like good times were had though!

@@ronmurnieks9483 Well to hear my dad tell the story, it was a standard 440, but yes you are correct, but truth be told, Mopar did allow anything for special orders. There are some pretty strange should not exist combinations in the Mopar world, and the right amount of money could persuade nearly anything. I once encountered a 75 Chrysler Newport special ordered with a slant 6. Who knows, Unfortunately I wasn't alive just yet, but my 3 brothers did confirm this story. That being said, He was not the original owner of the car, so it could have been modified before he got it. I did google it, and the facts are a little all over the place, but apparently they offered a 440 super commando at 375 horsepower, and a 440-6 at 390 horsepower. What I know of the later super commando is that they were stamped as 440 HP on the 76 era New Yorkers, although they weren't nearly as powerful. People did like to source them a lot at the junk yard my oldest brother worked in.

70 Birds had a great rear. Front was fuglier than my 73!