Rear main seals always a pain, so time consuming no matter what motor it is on. Thanks for another great video

Great video as always. 7:10 there are repair kits for worn shafts, it’s called Speedi sleeve. Just type it in here on KZfaq and learn all about it. It saved my wallet when I owned a Ford ranger with leaking crankshaft seal. Keep wrenching, love your work. Greetings from Sweden

I hope that I never have to do something like this procedure but I enjoyed watching it being done by a first class, master mechanic. Thank you Kenny! I appreciate you brother.

Thank you Kenny!

Another good one Kenny. Appreciate you and your content.

The rear main seal was leaking on my 1998 Dodge B1500 Class B motorhome and I used some AT-205 seal stop leak and it quit leaking. 1,000 miles later, I changed the oil and it was leaking again so, I put in the stop leak again and it stopped. Hopefully this will keep working as I am on the road full time for over a year now and do all my own work but this is a big job. Good news is, no need to remove trans. The 5.2 liter engine has a split rear seal that can be removed after dropping the oil pan but you have to remove a crossmember to get the pan out. Then you remove the rear crank bearing block, remove old seal, install new 2 piece seal. Watched several vids on how to do it. Still a big job for me to do out in the woods alone. Going to put it off as long as possible.

Thank You for another very informative video Kenny. Much Love and Hugs

Thank you for the tool recommendations.

Another thing I use for transmission piston seals is cut the outer ring off a cool whip lid, run a lighter around the outer edge to remove any sharp edges. Then run it around the seal to push the lip in without hurting anything. Used to use a feeler gauge but after cutting a few seals, I tried this. Works great.

Another great video Kenny, there's no substitute for knowledge of how to👌

I have a front seal to do when i get home, D16a6, keeping it full till then. Thanks for including the spring check!

Enjoyed the video Kenny always educational.

YOU WANT TO AVOID DOING A REAR MAIN SEAL!?! I bought a Chevy 5.3 v8 suburban. When I got it whenever you would shut it off it would leave a small quarter size oil spot by the rear main seal. I did not want to do the labor and at that time I did not have a lift!! You know I’ve never believed in snake oil too much! Lol so I bought some Lucas stop leak. I was already using Lucas in the suburban anyways. I added Lucas stop leak for three or four oil changes that rear main seal sealed up and it never leaked again I pulled cars and plowed snow with that truck. I also drove it to 325,000 miles never a leak on the ground again, great video Kenny! Also, if you’re driving an old vehicle, make sure you use some kind of oil with seal conditioner in it. My preference is Valvoline max life which I took the truck to 325,000 miles worth the truck is still running and driving today! Good luck!

Thanks Kenny.

Great job Kenny

When I kid, my father would always work on his own cars. We had a garage but you had to jack the car up and put it on blocks. When I was off from school my father would give me tasks to do to get the car ready for the work he was going to do the car. This time the bell housing seal was leaking on the transmission. So after all the work and finally getting the transmission out from under the car, my father put the new seal in. And of course like you say reverse procedure to put everything back. Come to find out he didn't get the seal right, somehow he distorted it. And we had to do it all over again!!

thanks for teaching us how to. your honesty and straight forward . Thank you.

One way to check anything like this for burs is run a little ball of cotton around the groove where the seal goes

Great video!!! One important part of any seal replacement is lubricating the lips of the seal prior to installation. If the surfaces were cleaned with brake clean or another cleaner then the seal may be damaged since it will run dry.

I love being a mechanic, most of the time. It's a sense of a true accomplishment that only one would understand. The high one gets from that diagnosis and the completed repair is indescribably. Unless I'm working on my own vehicles, not only because of the inconvenience but because it's my money I'm watching add up the further I get in to it. But a mechanic replaces what's bad on the way to the main project at hand. Mechanics don't do what customers nearly always tell the mechanic, just do what what the car is in for, i.e no preventive maintenance. But I think that's because a mechanic understands the work involved. It's great for business, that's for sure, because we can gamble when that vehicle will be back they actually can double the repair cost by skipping it.. But sadly many people hide their shame and take the vehicle elsewhere when those other parts break and blame the previous mechanic when they dam well know they were warned. That's why I take what people say about a mechanic with a grain of salt. Unless it's a jiffy lube employee at most Walmart mechanics,but they aren't mechanics in my humble opinion, they are just highschool kids. They say cops see the worst of the worst, and that may be true, but a mechanic has to be a close second seeing what conditions people will drive with. "Just replace the tie rod, and leave the bad wheel bearings and clunking ball joint(s) alone." Three weeks later they blame you for the wheel bearings or ball joints saying it's something you did installing the tie rod 😂. Of course they are just trying to get free parts and labor. Document everything! God bless.

Good job Kenny

Very good camera clear image on the seal.

Good video. Regular oil/filter changes will help prolong the seals lifespan.

Make a run to home depot or lowes to get a seal installer, lol a man after my own heart. Old cobalt and I would have added AT205 to the oil and call it a day.

I just did a rear main seal in my wife’s 2017 dodge Journey. It was frustrating because it later became obvious that the Mitchell DIY instructions were meant for a different model in the 3.6l variety. Figuring that out was easy compared to sneaking the transmission back in.

Nice job flyin' by the seat of yer pants Kenny !!

I remember when those pop corn aluminum heads came out, I'm not to sure designing blocks is a good idea, I'm really glad you're adding tools to your videos.

Radiator Season is coming up soon …followed shortly by water pump & head gasket weekend … soon it will be towed a camper in overdrive transmission awareness month .. A Hallmark Holliday Card for every occasion “ Sorry about your Transmission going out on Memorial Day .. hope you made it home 🏡 “

Great video

Thanks for the tutorial, FYI you can use the old seal to tap the new one in. Regards!

I have actually used a cut up two liter plastic bottle and made it in the shape of a cone and the seal slid right over the crankshaft and drove the seal in without any problems , it’s thin, soft plastic works great

You can try this on an old seal, but it works really good even when you're installing a new seal, or any rubber or synthetic rubber compound. Wet it with 303 protectant. Let it dry a little bit. If you have time, let it the day before and let it soak for an hour or so and then just let it dry out. It will last considerably longer. It even works on Tire Treads and helps them last considerably longer

Yes silicone between the bedplate & engine. Lock. Ive seen an anaerobic sealant used for most of those.

Old school Master Trans Specialist here, some might say ancient, used to use still have a old round wire type feeler gauge, each end a different gauage, used that as it was rounded, less chance of cutting inner lip, also trans lube on garter spring to prevent it from popping out, also used all hinds of trans components as a seal driver trying to make sure in went in even, that piece of plastic cutting board material also works well !

Remember the old microfiche film ? Try it to install seals, It works wonderful . The BMW rear seal is literally 3/4” thick , we have a cone tool with teeth that screws in and torques to like 60ft lbs then another part of the tool presses the seal out. Installing is using the smooth cone tool and a glue injection tool to seal the bed plate seams at the seal. For installing on ‘normal’ cars the microfiche has worked great for me for 30 years. I know… it shows my age but who cares right

Made something similar out of an ABS fitting for my front timing chain cover crank seal of my f 150.

Take a block of 2*4 with a notch out of the center.

I've noticed you, for some seals at least, dont need anything but a flat head. if you get under the crease(not between the sealing surfaces but the crease on the seal itself) you can get the flathead underneath the steel ring or spring that runs throughout the seals circumference and pry it using that. Especially since it's inside the seal so the flat head isnt touching either of the surfaces.

👍👍

In some cases those flywheel bolts have to seal oil as well as stay put, so it's more than thread locker. Isn't it amusing how sometimes the cast aluminum looks like a Styrofoam cup. 😆

Great job, Kenny. Don't have any of those spoons, always wanted them? Have a ton of picks and a corkscrew Tee handle seal puller, that's pretty useful? Thanks for showing, that you can do jobs, without many of the specialty tools.

It’s called a Speedy Sleeve. They work great on damaged sealing surfaces.

👍😎👍

Put 2 screws on it and pull with 2 vise grips and just pull works 90% of the Time. Dont put the screw too Deep but all the way in the seal

With it being a manual box while you have the clutch out, and if it is at all worn slap in a new clutch plate, or at least a new release bearing and pilot bush, as you have it out already, and putting in a new one is zero extra labour cost, and so much better for reliability.

If the seals aren't crazy expensive, just get a second one to use as an installer, something you can pound on with a hammer and not damage the one you're actually installing. Perfect size every time. The OEM Special Tool is the easiest and best to use but is stupid expensive.

What your recommendation for box end flex-head rachet wrenches that wouldn't break the bank? Thanks. Great video.

Harbor freight $5 set of feeler gauges. Works good for working in a seal lip.

Gotta love this been in this same place a time or two on my own cars . Yep done same exact same thing yep works yep very delicate but done. Yes looking for inexpensive scanner that does the job for personal use I don't usually work on other people's cars I'm not a licensed mechanic but probably should have been one.

The grease application was ingenuity.

Really enjoying and learning while watching your videos. When you can please let us know the mileage, engine CC's, model and year if possible. Keep up the great work and ethics!

Kenny make a seal installer tool using a small wire like half size bailing wire and fold over and slide into a short small diameter Cooper tube and hammer down end of tube with wire is and work awesome

Hey Kenny, what's your old rag policy? I just discovered the channel a few weeks ago, I love spending time in the shop with you. I haven't worked in a garage in three decades, so it's nice to see what the late-model problems are. I wish that I had a mentor as patient and eager to learn as you at the time.

Very similar way of installing seals on trailer hubs

Can you do a 6.0 5.3 rear main video?

First time I've heard o-ring picks called seal spoons...

Gotta get yourself an inexpensive 3d printer to make your own “custom” bearing press tools, etc.

Where are your comments with the link to tools?

Replacing the Seal is easy. Getting to it is the hard part

Nice screwdriver trick,who would have thought of that?Why would you need silicone where those halves meet wouldnt the new seal prevent that?Where would it leak with a new seal?

Those damn rear main seals. A pain in every car

So nothing is supposed to go on the outside surface of the seal when installing? 🤔

It would be nice to pick up a metal lathe and you could make drivers. That’s what I do. I make my own seal installers

What I like to do is drill a small hole in the seal and use a slide hammer with a screw

A metal hammer on a seal? On aluminum!? 😂

Sometimes I get it started with a hammer and then use the old seal to send it home

How many hours for job $, don't laugh I used zip tie to work seal lip in ! 50s on GM flywheel bolts same ritual ! Argh! Kenny need your expertise on rope main seal 46 Ford ,51 chevy- rope seals that where used back then! The old timers are gone and ones that are alive their mind also gone! If you don't put mild locite on those flywheel bolts ,oil leaking slowly on clutch disc,and slippage starts in time! Enjoyed video with my morning coffee!

All cars run in cycles same as water pumps alternators and compressors lol.

what car is that?

metal hammer? maybe hitting a block of wood. But hitting directly onto the seal? I'd go with a dead blow plastic hammer. Not telling anyone what to do; but I ain't doing this job twice.

Speedi-Sleeve!

Lmao nylon plank you know you sliced up your brides cutting board

50/50 whether you'll be doing that one twice, imho.

blue devil. because that motor will need every seal replaced in 25,000 miles. waste of labor and time cost.

Automotive engineers must hate mechanics…

Keyword🍌🍌 i dont recall