Thanks for the comment Borneagain

This has happened to me 3 times

On the same Xbox

@@chuck0659 I sent off my one x to be fixed for this issue and started having same issue with my og Xbox one. I picked up a different capture card and never had the problem again. We’re you using a capture card with this unit?

@@burnbarrelnetwork4013 no, but which capture card did you use

Great news Toby - and well done in getting it fixed

Well done! The pins on the corners are ground pins correct

@@TweakTips ok cool, cuz Im sure I ruined one of them, what's weird is that the display on this didn't work at all until I changed the Retimer, but when I wiggle the HDMI cord it cuts in and out

@@realfamvigilante2829 Try cleaning the HDMI port to make sure no flux has made its way to the HDMI port when you replaced the HDMI retimer.. also, try another HDMI cable if you have one. Ultimately, it could mean the HDMI port needs changing too

Thank you. You can get them from Amazon. For an Xbox One S - amzn.to/3ruZf2W For and Xbox One X - amzn.to/36Lv5AT

It is best to make sure the solder runs on to the pins on the side of the IC yes

Make sure you have flux and you are warming the area around the IC, not just the IC.. the motherboard needs to be warm too

Hi Lestah - Have you tested the filters with a multimeter? There should be continuity from top to bottom on each leg, but NOT diagonally. If the tracks are damaged, you will need to replace the damaged parts with some jumper wire like this - amzn.to/3nBmxTQ

Hi Rob - using this method, you can just use solder paste, but it is always handy to have solder as well to touch up any bad joints after the solder paste

Hi Andrew - make sure you are using tacky flux and that you have tinned the pads with enough solder

Also I am seeing everyone use a hot air station to remove it and re-seat the new one. I used a hot air station at 450C. I have seen some people blowing air at 480C. Also be sure to turn the fan speed down to a 4 or so so you don't risk blowing away a small component like a capacitor. .

No, but you will need a magnifying glass to make sure you have no solder bridges

Thanks Ibz.. Best advice I can give is, go for it brother.!

Hi Dylan - at a minimum you will need a hot air gun and a soldering iron, but a magnifying glass as a minimum would be very recommended.

Hi Kala - Unfortunately yes, you need the soldering iron unless you are really neat and tidy with the soldering paste.

booBeam Tech thank you. I have purchased everything in your video except for the braided cooper colored strand. I cant figure out what it is or where to buy it. Any advice?

@@kalahebert2938 it's called solder wick

SoCalledDante Thank you!

In how long? That seems like maybe theres another problem going on. Even a replacement Retimer chip should last quite a while.

Hi Jake - unfortunately 9 times out of 10, the power on then instantly off issue relate to the APU or Southbridge chips needing a re-ball

Hi Anthony - please get in touch with our friends at consoletherapy.com

Correct.. I ran the wick over all the pads and ground pad

O ok, I'm going to be attempting this for the 1st time here soon, and every time I practice re tinning the pads I ALWAYS end up with a whole bunch of solder bridges, and not just tiny little bridges either, like Golden Gate sized bridges, and it's always fine the first pass I make over them, but I dont get enough solder on them so I go over them again then BAM , big ass bridges !! idk what the ef the issue is, besides my lack of skill

@@realfamvigilante2829 Make sure you also use plenty of flux as this will help the solder flow correct to the pads rather than bridge them

Right on man thanks for the quick replies! Your the first KZfaq fixer upper that ACTUALLY responded to my pleas for help lol, +1 sub!

@@realfamvigilante2829 Thank you my friend, and glad to help anytime

Hi Isaiah - Depending on if return postage is included, you should expect to pay in the region of $75 to $100 - here in the UK, prices are around £60 - £75

@@TweakTips it was a place 10min from me so I would have been delivering it myself. Thanks for the info, I'll see if another place can do it.

You can restore the connection with the board through a jumper wire

Get another chip

More than likely you have a short in the pins of the retimer - check for shorts under a magnifying glass

As Kester 959T is a liquid flux, it will evaporate quickly - you should really try to use a sticky/paste flux as it will stay on the solder for longer and help transfer the heat into the solder

Hi Ray - did you add some flux before you tried to remove the retimer? Flux will help the heat to melt the solder and make sure your heat gun is above 450 degrees

i get this issue when i work on components with high temp solder or PCBs with more layers. I found it very helpful to add a good amount of flux and to distribute the heat around the component with lower airflow. what happens is that the center block is meant to dissipate the heat from the Qfn so you need to apply heat around it as if youre preheating a PCB

Hi Curtis - typically around 100nF if I am thinking of the same cap

@@TweakTips Thanks! I actually ended up pulling apart my other working X and pulled off the same cap just to see. It measured at 124nf which I took to be a 1.2mf cap. I ended up salvaging a cap from an old broken ps4 board that tests at 115nf and swapped that in but still no video so thinking maybe I burnt my Retimer IC. The first time I put it on I got video but it was distorted with some lines so I assumed it had a pin that didn't flow and make a good connection so I removed and resoldered it.

Did it work after you resodered it

Best place for the filters is Mouser or Aliexpress

@@TweakTips Thanks for the reply. Do you know a part/model number for those on the Xbox? I'm having little luck finding any.

Hi Nigel - If you lower the resolution in the Xbox settings to something like 640 x 480, will it display on the TV?

@@TweakTips hi. No it still don't work on tv. Thanks.

What’s it mean when it only works without artifacts red lines with static sound one 480 ?? Please help but craps out in 1080 and 720

Hi Matthew - Best tips I can give you is start with heat at around 450 degrees, and do not have the air flow at full blast (start at 50% then when the solder paste starts to melt, you can turn up the air flow slightly) - when trying this method, you need to be careful not to blow the chip off the board, so it can also help by gently resting tweezer on the chip to hold it in place while you heat it.. start with the heat gun a few inches away, then when the solder melts move the gun closer

Hi - for the Xbox One S you need this IC amzn.to/3cRiEDA and for the Xbox One X you need this IC amzn.to/2Ykj93R

@@TweakTips ok thank you

Does the Xbox stay powered on (with nothing on the screen)? If so, it sounds like you need to replace either the HDMI port or HDMI retimer IC

@@TweakTips Yes it stays on..is this a symptom of fault in retimer ic? My hdmi port is completely fine

@@besttest6831 I am afraid so yes.. does sound like a faulty retimer IC

@@TweakTips Tnks for the information

I believe he says in video, 450 (which would Celsius) and 50 air speed. Be careful with air speed as I blew several 0402 smd capacitors off on my first attempt. I struggled the first time getting it removed but my heat wasn't high enough.

As Ryan says.. heat is around 450.. but be careful of having the airflow too high

Yeah I had zero luck getting that darn chip off so I basically gave up...put it back together and now it turns on and then back off lol...so I screwed up something...good thing I still have my XB One S

Hi Toby - I use Amtech flux like this - amzn.to/3vbPFVe and the flux with solder is called "solder paste" like this one - amzn.to/3bKC9zW

@@TweakTips what is the difference between flux and paste? Thanks! I thought they have the same function.

@@zheouyang9702 Hi Zhe - Solder paste includes very small solder balls, so basically has solder mixed in with the flux. Flux on the other hand, has no solder, just the flux itself.

If you haven't already, here are a few things to check - make sure there are no bridged pins on the retimer (if you have one use a microscope or magnifying glass). Make sure the retimer is seated correctly on the motherboard and that each pin has solder on it (no dry joints) and obviously it is in the correct orientation (check the dot on the IC lines up with the dot on the motherboard). There are a few capacitors near the retimer chip - check these have not come off as you were replacing the retimer. When re-assembling, make sure you have added new thermal paste to the APU/heatsink, also, before trying to turn the xbox on, make sure you have at least screwed in the motherboard to the bottom metal chassis - the chassis acts as ground for the motherboard and needs to have its screws in place.

@@TweakTips I Think I did everything right except maybe because I didn't clean the soldier flux and just put the retimer chip on.

Hi - I use a Quick, but you can use and half decent heat gun, as long as it heats to around 480 degrees - like this one for example - amzn.to/2Pc5tan

Does the clicking noise come from inside the Xbox or the monitor? If is inside the Xbox, it is probably your hard drive which is faulty

@@TweakTips yea it came from my hard drive I have a video of it if you have anywhere I can send it

i opened it up because i was having no signal and i heard my hard drive and i was like mhmmm but im buying a retimer chip also just in case its not the harddrive

@@TweakTips and if I have a Xbox one s do I need a Xbox one s retimer chip or a Xbox one x retimer chip will work

@@rob6567 Hi Rob - Yes, you will need a SN75DP159 40VQFN retimer for the Xbox One S like this one - amzn.to/380hMMt - It is NOT the same as the Xbox One X retimer. Feel free to send your video to info@tweaktips.com and I will take a look.

Hi, thanks for the comment. I have a background in PC/Laptop hardware breakfix and have been repairing tech and soldering for more years than I like to think about ;-) But self taught when it comes to Xbox and PlayStation architecture - however the basics of laptop vs games console diagnostic and repair are very similar.

No fat xbox does not have a retimer chip

Hi Julian - This is the solder paste which comes with the solder and flux - amzn.to/2LTmzop

Correct, you need the solder to almost look like legs off of the retimer IC going down to the board

That looks hard