You should have mentioned the use of a thin layer of dielectric grease smeared on the inside of the rubber boot or as i do on the ceramic part of the spark plug is a must. It prevents the rubber boot getting stuck and also prevents any arcing/spark escaping the boot. Also you should have said to make sure you check that the gap is correct, i have bought the correct spark plugs several times and the gap has been way off, even closed sometimes. Correct plug, correct gap, a little dielectric grease on the ceramic and the correct torque when tightening and job done. It says on the pack how much to tighten to crush the washer 👍. I do it buy feel.

Great video. Thank you so much for sharing. I do have a question that I thought you might be able to help with: I was performing my 100 hr service on my 2019 Yamaha 115LB. As I was pulling the cylinder #1 spark plug lead, my hand slipped off the boot. Unfortunately, my hand caught the cable and pulled it out of the boot. I inspected the ignition coil to determine how to replace the lead; however, it appears that the leads are hardwired into the ignition coil. Is that, in fact, the case. If so, do you know if replacing the ignition coil a plug-and-play repair? If I am able to replace just the lead, do the lead wires simply from the ignition coil, or does the ignition coil need to be dissembled? Thank you.