Without knowing for sure, I'd have to say that you're on the right track. Even if this particular keyboard isn't using 'velocity detection' to modulate its sounds, it sure _could_ be. It's just software. Those two pneumatic hoses lying on the road do the same thing. After a tire runs over the first hose, it's simply a matter of measuring time until the second air hose is struck. Thus we have directional speed: a car's velocity.

You are 100% exactly correct. To employ a high scanning rate and provide sufficient timing resolution between the two presses, i have seen some MIDI instruments from mid 2000s use an FPGA. On a Yamaha i think you often see an ASIC (special purpose IC) which does the scanning. I wouldn't be surprised if it turns out they spun the scan ICs once in the 80s and just kept reusing it for a very long time, with refreshes only for cost as needed. Nowadays you often see an STM32 doing the scanning and i think they use an internal configurable DMAC peripheral to make it really fast, i suspect. I have been puzzling about how AKAI pads work. There are no two separate areas that are pressed at different time in pad travel, it's all one surface. They sense resistance, there is a special black material between the silicone pad and the PCB screen printed onto a PET sheet, and it continuously changes resistance depending on pressure, but it occurs to me from the play feel that they do actual velocity estimation as well, just from regular analogue readings. There are exactly as many pads + potentiometers on an LPD8 as the number of analogue inputs that the STM32 they use has, 16 total. All analogue inputs are connected via an internal multiplexer to a single ADC, so the readings cannot be taken continuously or at the same time, every time you switch the multiplexer you need to let the ADC settle into a new reading, which takes a while, i forget how long. At least on STM32 you fortunately don't need to stop the processor to take a good reading and avoid interference, you just need voltage and ground treatment external to the ADC section of the chip.

This is very insightful, it was the reason why I watched the video. I expected each key do have a potentiometer or something to measure the velocity and angle, but this is such a nice and simple solution.

She's anything _but_ a shop dog! She hates it in there. It's pure boredom. A working dog like that will need a solid three runs a day in order to keep that patience in place. After a few hours, she'll whimper, I'll cave, and we go for a quad ride & play some dog-disk.

Nice of you. Thanks. Hope it helped.

There was this one video of mine a few years back that was probably half an hour long. Presumably you watched it, because you dropped a comment relating to how it's a shame that something in it worth hearing will probably get lost. That was a super compliment, by the way. We get only a pair or so of genuine compliments like that out of perhaps a million views. If memory serves, it was about my old boss yelling at us to remember that _how much_ money we made was irrelevant in comparison to _how we use_ that money. Turns out he was right. Using a drop of oil on a metal screw that's going into plastic? That's also one of those game-altering tips that most of us are just too impatient to accept, at first, until we've become fully ripened by adulthood. The alternative, as I once heard @AvE mention, is to tighten it until it cracks, and then back it off a ¼ turn.

I would also add to screw into the same threads the screws were in originally. Makes for much easier assembly not "cutting" new threads. Also works well for wood screws i.e. taking down and reassembly of furniture.

@@dwightl5863 Agreed. If you use oil, it's pretty much certain that you won't re-thread plastic holes. Bar soap works for old wood things. I tried to imply this in the video, but I can't go down every path, for the sake of brevity.

My pleasure. Thanks.

Whenever you're taking something new apart, childish clarity is probably what you're after. _Eight. There are eight in an octave. Ah, ah, ah._

In that case, vinegar is almost certainly the trick. Happy for you if it works. Thanks.

Understood. Thanks.

@@pocket83squared thanks pocket

Do the keys cut out altogether, or do they just seem to get less responsive? Is it only one key affected, or is it a group of keys, or the entire keyboard?

@@pocket83squared in my own case, it’s just one key that keep on stop working after few days

That's right, take _note!_

@@pocket83squared Oh, how do you do italics on KZfaq comments? I know bold is with two asterisks.

@@VagabondTE Two underscores.

@@pocket83squared Ah _thank you_

Figured it out, just had to factory reset!

Yes, one could say that I do. [scoffs] The only thing that a new release of the GTA trilogy will _define_ is just how blithely accepting the new game consumer is. They've removed tons of the original music: that alone should be a deal-breaker. "Improved"? "Enhanced"! You must be joking. The original works-warts and all-are what established Rockstar as a powerhouse of masterful gaming in the first place. Alterations, however mild, disguise context, and thus should be considered taboo to any purist gamer. The revisionist history we already suffer in (other) mass media is bad enough. Keep the f--- out of my games! So far, Rockstar has been _the_ purveyor of first-class satire in the gaming world. Maybe the re-selling of an "updated" yet still inferior version of their best product is one of those thumb-your-nose jokes; if so, I can dig it. But it's not so subtle. Thus, any kid out there who's willing to buy such garbage must be just as thick of a trope as any of the NPCs of _BULLY._ Wonder if the _Fudge Packing corp._ (and that Facebook-ish logo) will survive the enhancements. Or should we only be looking at our old jokes through our newest lenses? Now that I'm thinking about it, those working girls shouldn't get so mistreated, either. How many patches before they're no longer your original pants?

I used spray adhesive and masking tape. You're asking me to recommend something that I didn't really recommend. If you must use DST, then look for the heavy-duty stuff, and not the stuff that comes in a plastic dispenser. Note that it will add thickness.

​@@pocket83squared What size of top felt strips did you use? I customized a 6*6mm felt strip because the height is too high. After tightening the PCB screws, most of the buttons will become unresponsive.

Been there. At least an open keyboard makes a great parts tray. A few _other_ open electronics projects could fit nicely inside it ;)

Strange situation. Sometimes honesty has dark areas for the sake of decency. Now you've become trapped in a sort of drop-the-subject relationship, effectively making the neighbor impossible to befriend. With this in mind, since he's already _not_ your friend, you have nothing to lose by explaining the situation to him, and straight-up asking for it back. This, assuming your brother can't/won't do it for you, since he probably still should. If you're a prick, which doesn't seem at all likely, you could even demand it back, since legally it still _is_ yours if you have some record of the purchase. Here's what I'd do; you might try enticing the neighbor to return it with an honest (lesser) trade. You know, offer a gesture of goodwill, like this: _tell you what, if you give me back my keyboard, I'd be happy to give you this old bike as a thanks._ Whatever the solution is, it'll involve restoring honest communication. Unless you decide to steal your own keyboard back, which of course is ethically questionable. Um, well, depending on the neighbor.

​@@pocket83squared I'm from Kosovo-Balkans, and since last night Serbia's (our eternal enemy) special military forces are right on our border threatening to come inside (basically starting a new war again), so perspective I guess... I remember as a teen stress-playing that keyboard during the last war while watching news of massacres and all kinds of atrocities this same military did during the last war 2 decades ago. Life finds the strangest of positions to f... us over sometimes.

​@@edide1627 It fascinates me that you live in such an old part of the Western world. In comparison, where I live is quite young. Consider that the original old-growth forests of my area have just now been cut for the first time. There are no ruins from ancient structures here; in fact, in the deep woods, the only anthropological sign one is likely to see is the occasional stone foundation. One is even less likely to find an old well. Rarest find of all is a flint 'Indian' arrowhead, from the first human occupants of these woods. You and I live in different worlds. As far as I understood, the Kosovo war had ended over a generation ago. Please excuse the limitations of mass media; it tends to distract us with emotional silliness, so threats of hostility & their stresses often go unreported here. After looking over the Wikipedia page, I now understand that the rift between the two groups hasn't even begun to heal. Hopefully the tension on the border will ease. Unfortunately, what frequently accompanies an old culture is an old conflict. Here, at least our petty, partisan bickering remains mild at this point, though it does seem sometimes as though an old Civil war hostility is bubbling up again. I can't imagine it becoming like what you have already witnessed. You have my respect and sympathy. My question to you would be about what you think is perpetuating this war. The demographics suggest that there's a sharp religious divide between the two sides; is this the source of the conflict? In my country, religion is important to most people. The U.S. is a heavily Christian nation. So much so, in fact, that we're often biased to forgive acts of hostility by (other) Christian nations. As a secular person who has received formal education in science, I find such arguments difficult to tolerate. Aggression is something that simply needs to be stamped out, no matter the instigator.

@@pocket83squared I'll write to you later some day. Spilled a cup of hot coffee on the keyboard 1 month ago some keys stopped working the last couple of days now, having to use the "On-Screen Keyboard" to type using the mouse for some keys that stopped working. Actually, I wrote you a very very very long reply (probably been typing for an hour now) and somehow accidentally deleted it and right now I'm as pissed as I can be. My hands and fingers are hurting, was so close to smashing and throwing the laptop in my yard from the window and I will as soon as I get some data out of it (thanks to those this piece of shit of a laptop is still alive lol). Can't be repaired, can't even open it and I worked in IT for 5 years (never seen something like this) long story... You know how it is when you're almost finishing a project and then somehow you lose/destroy/break it (because something out of your control happens) or you get an idea for something (whatever) and you forget it before writing it somewhere, you feel like it would've been the best thing ever the best idea ever, the best comment reply ever lol... (even though in reality it probably was... sort of average) Have a nice day, here now is 4:20 AM

Yummy. Makes one think twice about licking those cheeto fingers, eh?

2nd hey 😊

What did you win? Hi.

There's nothing "primitive" about it. In terms of simplicity, affordability, and dependability, this thing is downright well-designed. Conductive material separation could be from either liquid damage or a low-quality board; it would have little to do with the silicone buttons. Note that the Nintendo Entertainment System was released in the mid-80's, and there are still many, many controllers out there, in use. Its buttons use a similar design. Had they used some sort of touch-sensing buttons instead, every NES would be landfill by now. And same goes for most TV remotes.

😢😮😮