DISCLAIMER - I AM NOT A TRAINED YAMAHA TECHNICIAN - yet here you can see me rising to the challenge of removing and refitting the rear wheel of my Yamaha Tenere 700 ... normally no big deal? Well this is with a difference, no centre stand, and of course no paddock stand either as I'm on a bit of a ride in a real-world situation using just the 'Ride With Me' #trailstand which I last showed viewers on a recent video kzfaq.info/get/bejne/a7ehoNSgksCxhqM.html when I gave it a bit of a review. I decided to do this 'remove and refit' as it was suggested by a gentleman on a Tenere 700 Facebook page (thanks Carsten 😄) that it would possibly be too difficult a task because of the fact the back wheel wouldn't be vertical whilst using the trail stand. This is because of the potential struggle with the brake caliper, the potential damage to the ABS sensor and holding in the wheel spacers along with the chain installation whilst also struggling to lift the HEAVY rear wheel and line it all up at an angle to suit the leaning bike. Yes a bit of a trail stand challenge. Of course, this way is, or was, always going to be more difficult with these circumstances. However, I decided that removing my centre stand was worth it for the weight saving and ground clearance improvement. So I invite you to watch and see how I get on. Buy your track stand here www.ridewithme.site/the-essentials/trail-stands #yamahatenere700 #riderguider #trailstandreview #besttrailstand #trailstandchallenge #ridewithmetrailstand

Nice that you took the time to test it in the field. My question - Why would you spend the time to loosen and have to then re-adjust your axle adjusters? Just leave them tight and avoid all that wasted time and hassle. Once the axle is pulled just slide the wheel forward and peel the chain off. Install in reverse. Slide wheel forward, slip chain on. Pull back far enough to slide in the axle. Start the axle nut. Push the wheel forward and snug nut. Take bike off stand, torque axle nut. Ride off.

Hey you actually did it. Great effort. I had to smile when the chain and brake had to be installed crookedly. you solved it well. Maybe I'll make a video with the main stand for comparison 😅

Bloody Good Effort, thankyou.

Good real world demo. Couple of tips on what to add to tool bag too! Thx.

great demo! well done

We’ll done maté very informative for someone just starting out off-roading keep up the great videos

Sorry mate, you made a meal of that. Couple of pointers, set your axle the other way around so the nut is on the right hand side, then you can stand on it to loosen it. Stick the Axel down the exhaust pipe to keep it out of the dirt. Leave the adjusters alone, take the axle out and just push the wheel forward to get the chain off. Leave the calliper in place and spread the pads with a tire lever before putting the wheel back, you can always tape or cable tie it to the swing arm as a temp measure. Don't forget to pump the rear brake pedal before you ride off. 😉

Great stand. have the version 1 with the seperate bracket that you use for swingarm and front bash plate.

Another tip for when removing your axel is put in the end of you exhaust so it doesn’t get dirty.

A little Tip...Grab yourself a branch or Stone with about the width of the gap from the ground to the wheel. Put the wheel on IT and ITS way easier to Put the wheel Back in. You dont have to lift IT that high. Nice Video though!

I was just dancing this tango yesterday… but with a proper centre stand. 😅 mounting the rear wheel can be super painful. Sometimes it works in like 10 seconds, yesterday it took me a half an hour (when a break pad came off for no reason🤷🏼‍♂️😂)

👍 Vu de France ... (avec les sous titres...) Chapeau et Bravo !!! (impressionnant 😉 )

Nice work👍

Cable tie round the caliper bracket and swinging arm (permanent) solves that problem, undoing the chain adjusters is a waste of time, once the axle is pulled the chain falls off anyway. The wheel spacers shouldn't fall out, on our race KTM 's we machine a small groove where the inner lip of the seal runs and tighten the seal spring about 3-5mm shorter. When the wheel is out and you have a tyre lever in your hand lever the brake pads apart to make re-fitting the wheel easier. Personally I don't bother with a trail stand even though I have one, tie-down strap on a tree, fence post, road sign or whatever does it better.

nice one mate. am also refusing to put a centre stand on my WR. I have modified an old crutch and do my chain cleaning and maintenance with it only. Give us a video on your first time tyre change. Keep it up.

Probably a good idea to use a branch or a boot underneath the tyre as support when putting it back on.

Is your right book effected by the new location of the hook loop?

„Trick 17“ If you don‘t want your greased axle been dirty. Stick in in the exhaust while you do your work 😉

Tell me you used to ride a KLR without telling me you used to ride a KLR.

I was sold on the trail stand in your last video. Unfortunately, it doesn’t appear he ships to the US….😢

No shipping to Uk ?

The kick stand is on the street though. Just sayin.

Bloody hell mate about 25% of the talking would have been plenty. An edit or a bit of dead air is fine

Neil this was really great and I think proves the point that the trail stands work really well for both the front and the rear wheels on the trail. Even though you struggled a bit more than you would have in your garage with a rear paddock stand, I think it worked far better than lying the bike on it's side or using a log or a rock. Questions: A) how do you pack that trail stand (it looks a bit long) B) Do you have any regrets or concerns with removing the center stand? (I am thinking about removing mine now as well - I want to do the T7 "weight loss" diet like you did - I just feel like I have too much on the bike now C) can you show us what you keep in your tail bag when you go out on remote rides? Great stuff, mate.