I don’t know why I’ve just watched this whole video from start to finish. It was brilliant. Weird thing is I own a GS...

From what I watched/read in internet I understood that the sealed chain has the grease/lubricant inside (pins are fully covered), where the friction goes and those seals are made so that you don't wash the grease out while cleaning your chain and to prevent the dirt from going inside. In my opinion you should have covered pins whole in that "mayonaise". It's what I'd do, but then again I am no specialist in that matter. Thanks for the video. Oh, one more thing: when you are covered in sweat after the whole work words like "it's not hard to do yourself" lose credibility :D

Great video, great tips in the order of replacement. My only suggestion. Don't use a torque wrench to remove bolts, only to tighten/torque. It can be used in a pinch to remove bolts, but will mess with the calibration over time.

You can easily change only the front sprocket but when you wait too long then you need to change the whole set. The front is very small and therefore has less teeth to grab the chain which is the reason it wears out faster. When you wait too long the chain might get damaged and that will damage the rear sprocket but in most cases you can use 2 front sprockets and so almost double the lifespan of the set.

Little tip for chain adjusters threaded into aluminium swing arms. On the the purchase of the bike, remove the wheel spindle, unwind and remove the adjusters, and coat them liberally in your favourite anti seize compound. Reassemble. Thank me later.

Well, when you say extender you dont mess around 🤣Just to give you a little heads up... i used the chain tool from Biltema, but the bolt is not strong enough when pressing the chain back together. So i did not manage to get it into specs. What DID recommend you to have to be sure the chain is locked properly. I had to upgrade to a motion pro tool to get the job done correctly. Nice video again mate. You are really esay to listen to and follow along. I recommend you to do way more of this kinda videos 👏🏻

I've probably changed at least a dozen chains from enduro to sport bike, and yet still took this vid in. Only difference I assemble all the new parts then tighten and torque. Now you have me wanting to buy a tenere 700.

Nice Video. I have a little tip for you. You have to lubricate the pins inside the roller, because this is your lifetime lubrication for the chain inside the roller. The O rings protect the lubrication inside. The outside can be lubricated at any time after assembly. So please, put more of the grease inside.

Good video and explanation 👍 I change all the chains and sprockets for my friends and always loosen the front sprocket nut first, then cut off the chain, change both sprockets, put on new chain and then tighten the front sprocket nut. I find this to be a quick method with good work flow.

Couple of lessons that I learned the hard way. Sometimes a non factory Yamaha front sprocket can have a slight amount of slop in it that can damage the splines on the counter shaft over a long period of time. If you are running a 525 or 530 chain be sure to carry an extra master link as those size chains are less common and you could have trouble finding one in an emergency. A very thorough video, good job.

It's the advantage that the uncomplicate motorbikes and whith this very good kind of tutorials, we don't need nothing more! Thanks for sharing Miguel from Portugal

Tydligt, systematisk, pedagogiskt och ödmjuk. 👍

Fit the chain to the NEW sprockets. I have seen sprockets so worn that the new chain would be a link long so if you fit to old sprockets you may end up with too short of a chain for new sprockets. Also always tighten / torque in a 'star' pattern not circular. You can have the part out of camber if you tighten circular. (same with changing a flat on a car).

Many many thanks for the information, Nomad Sweden . I appreciate your prompt response. Please keep these very very informative videos on the Yamaha 700 Tenere going. Kindest regards, gerhard

Thank you so much for this video. I've just completed my first time full set replacement following your wonderfully detailed instructional. I am curious if everything went well with the chain since your replacement. Again, thanks so much

Thanks for a nice video, and some interesting comments. Regarding the orthodoxy of always changeing chain & sprockets as a set, I will challenge this by the following logic.. The front sprocket has about 1/3 of the number of teeth as the rear one, consequently it wears about 3 times as fast. So the conventional wisdom is that with wear the sprockets and the chain and sprockets will blend together like your hand with a well worn glove, or your feet with a long worn hiking boot. Clearly the oposite is the case: The opening between the teeth on the front sprockets opens up, but the rollers of the chain obviously do not grow to fit the growing opening. So the frontsprocket and chain grow in mismatch as the km roll on. I presented this logic to my mechanic when I had 10000km service to my ktm 790S, to which he protested vehemently. I insisted, and demanded a new front sprocket. I even went down from 16 to 14 teeth, as I find the gearing to tall for my liking. This will of course make the issue of wear even worse, but anyway, 12700km now, and looking forward to the result of this experiment as I approach 20000km. Please refute my reasoning, but the result will be quite interesting..

Two items for those who are not mechanics, never use a Torque wrench to remove any bolts or nuts, second, the torque reading will not be accurate with the long extension used.

O-ring seals, use locking vice grip pliers to press the plate on, pinch it between the pins to get it seated. A battery powered Dremel tool is handy to carry to cut pins. A hand punch to drive them out. DID makes a great portable chain tool. Amazon. Good job no swearing no blood, Off-the-Road is a great source of parts.

20k kms, well done! Could be the highest mileage T7 out there. Keep us informed re other service interval stuff ie valve clearances, plugs etc. Kudos!

I'd tighten the rear sprocket nuts across opposing sides, also some threadlock on the nuts, thanks for the vid though cheers

Great, Change sprockets and chain at same times, always!

Good job. I've done the same with your help using Craft Meyer riveting tool for DID chains. I've got some issues to put the new front sprocket in place, problem solved when screwing its bolt. Thx a lot.

I own a 94 tenere 660, and it’s interesting to note the front sprocket lock system is not a lot better than the 94. Yours had clearly slipped from its original locked position and the slots no longer held the indents on the flange of the nut. The 94 has a flimsy narrow nut and a lock washer that both fail over time. I’d say keep a close eye on that front nut and retorque it if it slips. Bad design still not rectified! Oh, and use a grinding disc, not a cutting disc for the chain pins! Enjoyed the video. Nights are clearly longer in Sweden than Scotland, as I would have just whipped both sprockets off with the chain onto the bench and worked at the bench all,in one go. I didn’t see any comparison of rear sprocket wear. At 46 to 15, the wear on the rear should be one third that of the front sprocket, so I tend to change the rear once for every two front sprockets. Sorry it took me so long to watch your video!

I would say that teachers can use this video to explain to the students in mechanic how to put a new chain kit on ! Well done Robert 😎😎

antiseize and tight them opposing sides instead of circular..... Nice vid go start using it....

Thank a lot. Very useful. Only a couple of things as others here also mentions. The Biltema tool is a bit weak and if unlucky you dont get the grinded pin out. That happened to me once. And I would apply a bit more "Belgium mayonnaise" to the pins itself. Because of the X-ring you will never get more lubricant into the pins later. Lubricating a modern chain is just to keep the o- or x- rings in good condition and to prevent rust. (So Im told). But the way you worked and the order of it seems very smart. Happy riding the awesome bike :-)

Thanks for the instructional video. Helps a lot in addition to the manual.

Thanks man. Really enjoy your videos always. Safe riding from all here in Ireland.

Excellent how to Robert...that will be a good help to people a little unsure. My last Tenere 660 used to eat chains and sprockets and cush drives, being a big single. Although the T7 has more power its a bit easier on the drive train. I regularly lube the chain but I'm a bit lazy about cleaning it...Cheers, Steve

Got a cardan powered tiger. Watched anyway. Thanks for sharing :)

Great video sir. Though we don’t usually do DIY’s here in the Philippines because there are a lot of bike shops here which can do such service at very cheap fees for the labor. I replaced my sprockets & chain of my T7 though at 47000 kms already. Hehe ride safe always sir!

Well done, Robert. Tack fõr det. If you ever replace the current chain with a continuous chain (requiring removal of the swingarm), I would be interested in seeing a video and hearing your comparison of the difficulties of the two jobs.

Good video, but one thing: you should never use a torquewrench to break nuts loose. The wrench is a precision measuring tool and will loose it's accuracy when missused as a breakerbar

Very good video. Informative, well explained and empowering. Your approach was "nomad".. Sorry, play on words. Bravo.

Good Job. While the rear wheel was out. Check the Rubber Dampers inside the hub to see if they needed to be changed.

Love the OCD reg. on your bike. Lots of bikers are a bit OCD about their babies.

Good video. Thanks. I will change chain and sprocket myself too.

Great video Robert....I always appreciate a DIY video done in an unimproved work space! :-)

It is the chain is the problem. It will stretch and then ride on the tips of the sprockets

Hey Nomad, I just swapped my 15 for a 16 tooth Vortex countershaft sprocket and I have to say that it made a very nice difference on the backroads of overcast Southern Oregon - a little trail riding and my recently acquired wht/red T7 seem just as At Home off-road as it did with stock gearing. I now am using 1st gear at times in tight off-road where before I wasn't - seems 16 x 46 combo is, I think, pretty ideal. Having said that, I also have NOT done single track up a windy, slippery hill with this combo... ;) ...might be worth a try out, you don't even have to add a link to your stock length chain! Anyway, enjoying your videos and fun sense of humor, as well the ride and activities footage - much thanks for all you do! PS: my former ADV ride was an R1200GSA that sadly, burned up in the Oregon Fires earlier this year... Weird Fires...

Another great video, very instructive and informative, well done, thank you for sharing it with everyone!!

In general you have the measurement limits for each part of the drive kit. You can and should replace each element individually once it goes out of the limit...

I have a small version of your tool I carry to split the chain while I'm out on the trail & put in a split link to stay mobile

My tip? I've been working and riding on motorcgcles 40 years, 15 years had my own shop. When in the shed/shop, i like to put copper or nickel anti seize (just a tiny dab) on every male fastener thread. On bikes i worked on, my own and customers, i never had a seized fastener, a damaged aluminium thread, nor had to put a thread repair in (Timesert, Recoil, Helicoil etc). On customer bikes i didnt service before, or were new to me... plenty!

The reason sprockets wear and scallop like they do, is because the chain has stretched, that's all it is, so the chain, whilst it might look ok is definitely not, sprockets do not wear if the chain is good.

Bra genomgång hur man gör bytet.

I totally got that mayo reference. Almost choked on my tea. And I'm Finnish, not Dutch. Ha!

Ett hett tips, använd bara momentnyckel när du vill skruva åt med ett bestämt moment :)

Made in Belgium, because of mayonnaise... made me laugh. Good instructional.

Very good video, you explain things very well and with good details. Images are very sharp and clear so we can see all the details very nicely. Just a question comes to my mind ... why did you go for the open chain?, I think a closed one would have saved you quite a good amount of work as you spent most time opening the old chain and closing the new one. I also think closed chains are more sturdy/reliable. Which was your reason to go for the open one?

Good job done !

Hello Nomad Sweden ! I loved your KZfaq video . May I ask what sort of tyre did you have on the rear wheel in the video ? What make and what actual tyre size ? Kindest regards, gerhard

A good and informative video. I only have one question: What is the advantage of an open circuit compared to an already connected one?

Got like and subscribe nice video Dilmi from Algeria

Nice work 👏 👌 👍 💪

Hi, thank you for the content. Fantastic video. Some great tips and tricks I will use when I change my sprockets and chain later this month. I had a slightly off topic question regarding which tyres you are using? Thanks

if you put the bike in first as well i find it helps to be able to undo the front sprocket nut..... also the grease you applied to the link. that needs to be applied to the o rings but most importantly needs to be on the two links that go through the chain they need to be full of grease as chains are now sealed. as you did not fill the links before riveting the chain back together you now have a dry link in your chain which will more than likely be the failure point. its all a learning curve being your first time. the only other thing is please do not ever use a torq wrench to undo as it buggers up calibration so will not be accurate in the future just you a normal ratchet. other than those 3 things well done you will get there.

Nice video, can you show how to clean the wheel spokes and tighten them?

Thank you for this video. Love watching your content. 1 question. Did the chain come with the correct amount of links? 122?

Great!!!

thank you!

For anyone wanting to grease fasteners on their bikes for corrosion protection, reduce the manufacturer's torque setting by 5%. Torquing with a lubricant, called 'wet torque', will actually increase the torque by around 5%, so back off your torque wrench setting by that amount. Skål. 🍻

Great video man, I do have a question: why buy the open chain instead of the closed one?

Thank you!

Change sprocket size can throw the speedo accuracy too

I tried a steel sproket but had to revert to a damped one, bike got noisy, sourced one cheaper from Italy they also do a rear damped one if you wish

Excellent video, what are your thoughts on the chains with the speed clips? Emergency use only or avoid.

Nice work.. My ebay china tool dont work well for this, so l need a new one.

Would have looked cool if you went with a gold chain

520/525/530 are the size of the chain (width) they cannot be exchanged....

For the chain slack, do you measure it from the tip of the rubber strip or directly from the metal of the swingarm? It's not clear in the shop manual and sincr the rubber strip has a certain thickness, it can really mess the adjustment. I usually measure from the end of the rubber to the middle of the chain. I don't know if this is correct though...

From which point of contact did you measure the distance from swing arm to the chain

How much do you adjust the chain?

En lite märklig fråga, men, hur lång är den korta lilla växelarmen som sitter ovanför framdrevet (från axelcentrum till centrum på kulbulten)? Det ser exakt ut som en sån som jag behöver som kopplingsarm på TDR250, som inte går att köpa längre.

Bra video! Men använder du en kedja från DID så skulle du haft ett annat verktyg för kedjan. Typ den här chainsandsprockets.co.uk/products/did-style-chain-breaker-tool DID kedjor har ihåliga stiftanslutningslänkar, till skillnad från andra kedjor. Men det kanske funkar ändå. Kör å va glad 👍

Is the chain slack specified with the bike on the sidestand ? On mx bikes it’s usually measured with the bike lifted up(wheel fully sprung out).

At how many kilometers did you have to change the set? (Sorry if you mention and I missed it) Also, the T7 is highly geared so a longer gear will benefit the ones doing asphalt use.

Bra jobbat. Ska bara skaffa lite majonäs....hahahahahah

Can I make an appointment for service by Nomad? BTW - rear tire? % off/on road?

brake pads greasebearing seals

chain oiler a good idea?

Good job, nice vid just too many adds !!!

Which tail tidy did you use ?

I had a Tracer 900 and the OEM front sprocket had the rubber cushioning - just as the old one you took off. I always replaced with OEM front sprocket as I was told it was for noise dampening. Do you notice a change in front sprocket noise with the replacement front sprocket that doesn't have the rubber cushion? :-)

Hi Robert. I see you change tyres as well. I think you had motoZ before. How did you found them ? How you find current tyres ? What Would be the right choice ??

As you changed the chain tension, how did you adjust the wheel, so that it is in line with the front wheel?

Your front sprocket came off quite easily. If it was tighten to the right torque, which is 95 Nm.

replacing a rubber damped sprocket with an undamped one is a downgrade.

Don't you think that T7 is a "naked king". Just good marketing. Only lazy rider is not competing in suspension adjustment. It is good off road, but too heavy to have a real fun. It jumps like a donkey on highway having resonance on rear suspension because of design of rear swingarm. I'm adjusting, adjusting and adjusting instead of having fun to ride. I'm treating my T7 like a baby and now I have some doubts if I have to. It appears to be very expensive toy for it's design. All cables are not weather protected and so forth...

😎🏍💨💨💨💨👍🏻🇨🇦