Removing the plugs is done so its easier to turn over the engine but at the risk off dropping something into the cylinder then makes an nightmare. So I just leave the plugs in as safer and doesn't really alter turning it over

@@mr_mon-eye Thanks. Makes total sense and my exact thoughts too.

The special tool came from ebay if I remember correctly. They about £10 if memory serves me right. I would imagine the same process would apply to the 1200 as it does to the 1300 but I've not done a 1200 yet. I would assume so but quick Google search or check in a workshop manual would probably answer that definatly. You can rotate the engine 10 times if you want to but if they shims isn't seated properly after a couple revolutions then it probably won't be after 10 revolutions. Best thing is fit it. Rotate it a time or 2 then re measure the gap to make sure its right. I always re please the whole lot after I've done them all to double check too

David Tweddle thank you fella. I do loads off stuff like this so decided I’ll start recording to so people can see how things like this are done

I do this for a living so I'd say I'm quite good with tools. It's not hard to get right if you have a basic knowledge off the internal mechanics off an engine. It would be pretty hard for the valves to hit the pistons as this video shows the timing isn't altered at all so the crank to cams relationship stays the same. So the shim would have to be huge to make it open the valve far enough to collid with the piston when it's not on the cam lobe. Ultimately if you don't know what your doing, understand the principles off it or can't understand the manual then dont attempt it. Especially on a bike

No problem at all I'm trying to do how to videos on all the bikes I work on now

It varies a little but if they are just mildly out off spec then they can create rough idol and loose top end power. If they are out buy quite alot it can cause quite big problems from worn valve seats and lack off compression if the valves aren't closing correctly or can cause just bad running off the engine as valves aren't opening alot. Normaly they get noisy and can hear the tapits if they have excessive wear

Thanks again for sharing and I've subscribed! Have a good day!

Mark Wright it my local Yamaha dealer I had to order the sizes I needed but I am aware some dealers do an exchange service on shims if they have them in stock at a cheaper price

Mr Mon-Eye ok thanks buddy. Any more vids coming up on the XJR??

Mark Wright yeh I’ll probably be doing s couple more in the next couple months. Bikes probably going to need the clutch looking at and it also needs the HT leads replacing too

Mr Mon-Eye cool I’ll be looking out for them!!👍🏻

I don't remember I'm afraid. Its something I check when they get noisy or when I do a major service on all my bikes

malcolm greig no they shouldn’t do as long as they done like this fella. Not had any problems with it at all since done it.

@@mr_mon-eye Thanks, I'll try and be extra careful next time

malcolm greig just got to make sure you rotate the crank the right way fella and don’t rotate it too far

I’m due to do this adjustment soon and this comment has me puzzled as to why you had both inlet and exhaust valves held down at same time? Anyone explain?

H Howes thanks

Cheers

hello its me! It’s still being made fella just taking time that’s all. Need it to be right before it goes on the dyno

Mr Mon-Eye waiting for it.... gd luck man

4 degree advancer ?

@@mr_mon-eye wanted to know if you are using a 4 degree ignition advancer (common mod on XJR) wondering the valve setting gets affected. I have 99 xjr and is about to set the valves and found your video very helpful.

@@ebinmoothedam ah see what you mean now. No this one had the standard timing wheel on it unless its been changed before me but looked like the factory item. Having a 4° advanced wouldn't alter the process of checking the shims

Should be a lot longer than that