The higher grits increase edge retention mostly, the coarse when will need sharpening a lot sooner.

Thanx a lot for this informative Video. Could you do once one on the topic of the different grit-standards? I hone my straigth razor on a coticule. They say, it has a grit-range of 6‘000 to 8‘000, but no one can tell me, if it’s the japanese or the european standard. My question is, if I can increase the sharpness with a 12‘000 jnat.

anyone with basic skills can get better edges with nothing more than single sheet of budget bin sandpaper than most of these youtube wankers with $1500 finnikcy setups. The point is, you don't need anything other than skills. A guy with basic skills will get better results off a literal brick from the garden. That lansky is outdated obsolete junk. Not worth it for $10 much less what they charge. I wouldn't take one for free. It's a waste of time and low quality junk. Yeah my granddad used one too, but wtf did they know? Those dmt plates aren't great either. They're vastly overpriced and wear out quicky. All of them have grit contamination and leave extremely deep and stray scratches. But yes they actually work and you can get good edges with it. I'd take basically any Japanese waterstone over either of those things. The issue is, folks are getting ripped off thinking waterstones cost 2x what they actually do. That $275 10k naniwa chosera they sell of sharpening supplies you can get elsewhere, yes in the US, for $60 full price in 15 mm thickness rather than 30 mm. A 1k shapton pro they're charging $60 for costs $25 in Japan. if you really wanted a fixed system, I'd suggest an edgo pro clone. it's one of the least finnicky and gimmicky systems. Order a clone from China for $50 and be grateful, throw in some Chinese resin bonded diamond stones in the 3" x .5" size for about $10 each and you're set. Also the water stone you are using is not intended to be used for what you are using it for. That is a Suehiro Cerax, which is a highly friable stone that's intended to be used on the wide bevels of traditional style Japanese kitchen knives. It makes no sense to use a stone like that for doing secondary bevels on western style knives. That is a great stone with modern technology if you actually use the way it's intended to be used, which like I said is for WIDE bevels. It will leave a smooth, hazy, scratch free surface on a wide bevel and create a distinct contrast between the layers of steel in a cladded, laminated or pattern welded knife. The stone wears fast and creates a great deal of mud in use. Which is what it's designed to do.