Thank you for this. It was very helpful

A while ago I thought I'd make it very smart and flip my 4 stroke lawnmower upside down to sharpen it. Man that was a mess😂

Of all the sharpening videos I have watched yours has been the easiest and most clear to watch and understand.

My Blender is very sharp now

You would have had a much better result with the brass, if you had attached a sacrificial piece of wood, with holes drilled where you wanted to punch the rasps. Then when you punched the rasps, the brass would not have deformed. You would have also had a neat arrangement of holes, so your final product would look much cleaner. Also, it would have been nice to see you use it.

1.89/2$ an Aliexpress. It is worth exactly that. I use them as disposable items in my garage for sharpening tools and gardening equipment.

informative and succinct, thank you.

Thats amazing!!! i didn't know i had a Laser!

I too question the overall effectiveness of Fertan. I recently acquired an old steel narrowboat and have stripped back with a Tercoo blaster and then Fertaned any remaining rust patches. After leaving to work for the advised time period then scrubbing off with water I find that many patches bloom up brahman orange with rust within a day or so (no rain). Somewhat disappointing. I think the best thing to do is strip back with poly strip abrasive discs and epoxy immediately. Although this is far from practical when painting a whole boat cabin

'Promosm'

Are this grinders available in the U.S and what is the price.

Thanx a lot for this informative Video. Could you do once one on the topic of the different grit-standards? I hone my straigth razor on a coticule. They say, it has a grit-range of 6‘000 to 8‘000, but no one can tell me, if it’s the japanese or the european standard. My question is, if I can increase the sharpness with a 12‘000 jnat.

The higher grits increase edge retention mostly, the coarse when will need sharpening a lot sooner.

anyone with basic skills can get better edges with nothing more than single sheet of budget bin sandpaper than most of these youtube wankers with $1500 finnikcy setups. The point is, you don't need anything other than skills. A guy with basic skills will get better results off a literal brick from the garden. That lansky is outdated obsolete junk. Not worth it for $10 much less what they charge. I wouldn't take one for free. It's a waste of time and low quality junk. Yeah my granddad used one too, but wtf did they know? Those dmt plates aren't great either. They're vastly overpriced and wear out quicky. All of them have grit contamination and leave extremely deep and stray scratches. But yes they actually work and you can get good edges with it. I'd take basically any Japanese waterstone over either of those things. The issue is, folks are getting ripped off thinking waterstones cost 2x what they actually do. That $275 10k naniwa chosera they sell of sharpening supplies you can get elsewhere, yes in the US, for $60 full price in 15 mm thickness rather than 30 mm. A 1k shapton pro they're charging $60 for costs $25 in Japan. if you really wanted a fixed system, I'd suggest an edgo pro clone. it's one of the least finnicky and gimmicky systems. Order a clone from China for $50 and be grateful, throw in some Chinese resin bonded diamond stones in the 3" x .5" size for about $10 each and you're set. Also the water stone you are using is not intended to be used for what you are using it for. That is a Suehiro Cerax, which is a highly friable stone that's intended to be used on the wide bevels of traditional style Japanese kitchen knives. It makes no sense to use a stone like that for doing secondary bevels on western style knives. That is a great stone with modern technology if you actually use the way it's intended to be used, which like I said is for WIDE bevels. It will leave a smooth, hazy, scratch free surface on a wide bevel and create a distinct contrast between the layers of steel in a cladded, laminated or pattern welded knife. The stone wears fast and creates a great deal of mud in use. Which is what it's designed to do.

Lose the tunes and I'll come back !

I just ordered a set... the bloody bastards! Thanks for the heads up.

I believe that at kzfaq.info/get/bejne/l6-ld9iQq7u6f40.html you took the tool the wrong way. 😅 I've been using it for a couple of years very occasionally, it works really great. It allows anyone to sharpen a chain almost like new, with no skill required. You just have to make sure the end with the chainsaw icon is the closest to chainsaw and that you keep the Pferd CS-X horizontal. What's nice about it as well is that it's easy to use in the forest.

👍👍👍. Thank you

Thank you ❤

Ein sehr gutes Video, alles zusammengefast, TOP👌

What settings did you use on the power supply unit? 12 volts and how many amps?

Your technique is the problem. Not the gear sir. Bur removal should be a stropping motion and you should fatigue the burr til it snaps off however you want that to happen cleanly. You are TEARING the burr and destroying the APEX of the edge.

🙂

Sweet stones, the Amazon one if left in water will crack pretty bad.

How's it on leatherette or leather

Nice vintage Mora, i also have one from 1950, but from Carl Andersson with laminated Carbonsteel, that Steel is super easy to sharpen and the Edge is like a Straight Razor when i wanted it to this Level of Sharpness. I sharpen on a not super fine japanese Naturalstone ca. 1000/1500Jis and then polishing on Charnley Forest.

Hi, thanks for this video.

good tips, thanks

Try not to put too much pressure on the stropping leather for scandi knives. You lose a lot of the flat edge at the apex. It should be just a couple of gentle passes.

Do you know of anyone being successful at electro-etching brass? I can get it to darken easily but not actually etch to any depth. Thank you , nice video!

Which open source software do you use link? Thank you.

Thanks!

Very interesting video. Keep going :)

Thanks for the video with all of the tips. Do you know if you can engrave any other metals than regular steel? For instance stainless, or brass maybe?

I spent €20 or €30 on diamond plates to lap a fkn tile to hone razors. These things are pretty hard and smooth. It can have a mirror finish so it's definitely over 10.000k grit or who knows maybe 100.000k because it kinda has no grain at all. You can hone it to nano meters and the steel just glides on it or something. The diamonds of course make scratches when I push hard enough but the progress is slow and the scratches could trap the edge with edge leading strokes so I remove them with a cheap, worn and dished grey carborundum stone. It also wears the diamonds out and cant be lapped flat. The razor doesnt like the tile either. It's the closest I got to a mirror shine on the bevel but it creates some kind of weird burr or something. The apex is not keen. Only an electron microscope would tell you what's going on.

When your pushing in to the strop so hard you are absolutely rolling over the edge apex due to the softness of the leather. Your edges will come out much better and with much more bite if you simply use very light pressure when stropping.

I grew up on sharpening on flat slate river rocks. I have sharpened knives on red brick just for shots and giggles. So long as the steel is around 58-59hrc you can actually get pretty decent edges off red brick. Once your around 61hrc it just won't cut the steel anymore.

A smaller denser red brick might be better

Is it possible to sharpen on a piece of granite tile or marble tile? How is the cutting and will it take very long to sharpen

Have you got a link for the leveling stone please. Hard to find that size here in Asia.

You can get away with doing that once or twice, but do it too much and you’ll find your scissors loose… Better to grind the bevel and leave the flat backside for deburring

Useful

I think that sand paper on a popsicle stick would work too, maybe a couple of different grits of sandpaper and the reach would be easier than that tool. Or a coarse nail file. (havent tried it no idea if it works just thought of it when i saw your sharpening stone)

great video, from a fellow sharpener.

what tool did you use to sharpen it and is it easy to purchase in the USA?

Would be good to show and talk about the tool your using a lot more and the technique your applying to the blade.

Restore under 3 minutes… “I’ve now worked on this piece for 15 minutes“. 😝 Great demonstration thanks for the video.

You would not believe how many diesel heater videos there are on UTube that do not talk about the size of the room to be heated! If your room is approximately 150 cubic meters, which is a little larger than my garage I think I can buy one with confidence it will perform. Thanks for your review.

thank you for the test !