You have nothing better to do?

@@ThunderAppeal your mom?

@@Neighbourhooddegenerate You learned to read and write. Congradulations you idiots.

@@ThunderAppeal Apparently you don't...

Meanwhile, Scotty Kilmer screaming in my mind ‘Endless money pit’ 😂😅😂

Beer is what I usually use for that purpose!

Thank you! Yeah, a tea break sure can help 👍

That's great to hear! 👍

Use the money you make as a programmer to find your auto dreams yo.

Or some manufacturers recommended equivalent.

Use MB oil go broke

@@chieftain8638 like I said, "or use an equivalent"

These whole videos about this Range Rover are only an advertisement for the fluid extractor and the compression tester and stethoscope etc , in the last video he extracted the fuel from the tank which make no sense, and in this video he used the stethoscope which you don't actually need , Also i believe he sabotages the car then makes it seem like he is actually fixing it just to get the ad revenue

@@salahgh3081 Trolls will be trolls, but that is the first thing you check when determining your next step. I use a long screwdriver (I put my ear up to the handle) to check where the noise is coming from. but the stethoscope is better. (I am just frugal) He is just following the proper basic diagnostic chart.

@@FRUGALWITHJOHN Exactly. All of us technicians use some sort of stethoscope or an alternative such as a sufficiently long screwdriver to diagnose certain noises. Also great for diagnosing bad bearings in the belt drive assembly (I'm a Honda tech. We get a lot of bad tensioners) and bad fuel injectors.

Because people do not service them often enough and if/ when they do only suck half the oil with this stupid suction method so its not even a proper oil change

@@dave216dx It's probably designed to have the oil changed that way. Can't say for sure on Land Rover, but most German cars are for sure, especially Volkswagens and Audis.

Noticed this with my Disco4 with the 5.0 V8, this gives me a solid starting point!

How do you fix that?

@@rotorsnap Never let the revs fall below 2500rpm 🤣🤣

Don't underestimate the cost of paying a mechanic to fix the timing. It'll cost *many* thousands of dollars! 👍

He wasn’t cheated, he didn’t want to deal with the cost of diagnosis and repair. That was his choice.

He should be sent this video and a n emoji 🎉

Sounds like a fake story told by the KZfaqr . No way he got that for only 2k

Most likely the actual fraud is the "auction purchase" of this vehicle for 2k.

Thanks Pete! It helps if you warm the oil up a bit first, though it's not completely necessary. I changed the oil (5W-40) yesterday on my Golf without heating it up and it took a while to suck all of it out, though it also gave me time to change the filter and reset the oil service indicator 🤷‍♂️

@@WaldosWorld good to know!! Thank you

Yup, my Jag F-pace had a turbo & entire exhaust system replaced under warranty just before I bought it. The likely cause of failure was 20k oil change intervals (!) plus auto-stop/start plus low mileage (e.g. city driving in a hot climate) plus a ridiculously small filter.... Under my ownership, it will get 3k mile oil changes, cheap insurance. Just did the first of a couple of 500 mile flushes and it's already running way better.

@@ckm-mkc glad to hear this! I was brought up with 2 months or 2000 miles. This was before synthetic, but never had an engine issue

I describe 'excess' (re those specified in the service manual which are limited by manufacturers to keep the overall car running costs competitive) oil/filter changes as being idiot engineering. Easy to do and so beneficial. Expenditure of tens of dollars/pounds that save thousands.

You have nothing better to do?

That's awesome, thank you!

I've only had one engine it did anything for, but have seafoamed the top end on everything I've owned because it sure is entertaining 😆

Exactly correct

Thank you so much!

Yeah, I think the previous owner may have neglected it a bit too much 🤷‍♂️

You have nothing better to do?

​@@WaldosWorldThe factory recommended oil change intervals were way too long on these engines. It led to many problems with the timing components.

There's an IT joke where you just restart the computer and it work? In mechanic, just change your oil and oil filter.

Thanks, you too!

Thank you! It'll be interesting to see how many miles I can get out of this engine 🤔

5W-40 isnt thicker than a 5w-20. The 40 indicates the higher temperatur resistance of the oil. 5w indicates the viscosity at Low temperatures. Belive me im Out of the EU. ;)

@@franky6947 At running temperature the 5w40 will have higher kinematic velocity than 5w20. That's how multigrade oils work.

WHAT??? 5W-40 OIL!!! ARE YOU CRAZY??? The reason for lighter weight motor oils is so the oil can get to critical engine parts QUICKLY upon start up, which is the most critical time in an engine's life! Sure, changing to a heavier weight ("thicker") oil will make the engine run & sound "smoother" because a thicker oil will provide a dampening effect to the mechanical processes going on. JLR (Jaguar/Land Rover) has obviously done extensive testing on their engines, along with Castrol Motor Oils, to determine the proper spec motor oils for their engines. And as to the comment that changing to a heavier 30 or 40 wt. oil will be better for emissions. that's also incorrect. JLR actually changed the oil specification for the later AJ133 engine from 5W-20 Full Synthetic to 0W-20 Full Synthetic for emissions and to increase gas mileage. Remember that the beginning number of an oil spec. (in this case the 5) represents the heaviness/thickness or ability for the engine oil to flow when the engine is cold, in its operating environment. And the last number is the heaviness/thickness of the oil to flow when it's at operating temperature. If you change to a heavier weight motor oil, i.e. 5W-20 to 5w-40, the oil isn't going to flow as well at normal operating temperature, possibly starving critical engine components of needed lubrication. These precision mechined motors have very small and intricate oil passageways that can become blocked easily by the smallest particles of dirt and a heavier weight of oil will make that possibility even greater by not allowing the oil to flow more freely. And MOST IMPORTANTLY, the timing system if the AJ133 engine (which is prone to early break down due to a DEFECTIVE DRSIGN and FAULTY PARTS) is controlled and lubricated by the engine's oil. The VVT (variable valve timing) system will not function properly if the oil viscosity is changed to a heavier weight oil, thus causing engine timing issues and possible catastrophic engine damage. I own a 2012 full size Range Rover Autobiography with the Supercharged AJ133 engine that has 96K and it has the identifiable engine "rattle" and is throwing the usual engine codes, symbolizing a needed timing chain repair. I've been investigating the issue and been doing weeks of research as to why it happens, who's fault is it (Google: Land Rover timing chain class action lawsuit) and how to prevent it. Besides the 2 main faulty parts that were installed at production, the most important things are to do sooner oil changes (15K is a joke) and use the proper spec. oil. E'Nuff Said! I Hope all of my time & research can benefit all of you other GREAT Land Rover owners out there.

​@@franky6947 Higher temperature resistance??? WHO TAUGHT YOU THAT???

@@Rottweiler-Lover I've always wondered about the fascination for using oil that differs from manufacturer's specifications. My own car requires oil that meets either ACEA-C1 or JASO DL-1. These are both low SAPS oils and can only be found in either 0w30 or 5w30. It has never occurred to me to use anything else.

I agree! 🤠

@@WaldosWorld Good news that the oil fixed most of the rattle. Was going to suggest timing as low/poor oil affects the tensioner which then trashes the guides. Sounds like you have it under control. Best to remove the bumper and cooling pack for this job.....

That's a good example of how important oil can be! 👍

Thanks Steve! Yeah, I bet there is a connection there 👍

You're correct, almost every modern timing chain tensioner uses a spring AND oil pressure to tension the chain.

Thanks for the tip! I don't think I've ever seen it around here, but I'll keep my eyes open for it 👍