You won't believe how strong micro stoppers are! Climbing nuts tested in real rock

Рет қаралды 150,860

2 жыл бұрын

Climbing nuts tested to destruction in real rock. Watch us do our first tests of passive climbing protection in some bomber granite. We tested a Black Diamond Micro Stopper, some BD stoppers and an older Wild country nut. Let us know if you want to see more tests of passive climbing protection.
Check out this video where we broke nuts in the cam crusher adapter in our Slacksnap machine.
• Climbing Nut & Hex Bre...
Thank you Carl Mitchell for donating the nuts tested in this video.
Big thanks to Michael Rogers @wolf_in_the_weeds. Thanks for bringing your enthusiasm, expertise and most importantly pulling muscles to this project.
Our results:
►Number 5 BD Micro Stopper MBS 6kn. Carabiner broke wire at 9 kn.
►Number 4 BD Stopper MBS 6 kn. Wire broke in bend around nut at 7.13 kn.
►Number 7 BD stopper MBS 10 kn. Wire broke at carabiner. Peak force off. Felt about 13kn??
► Wild Country Rock Number 8. Wire broke at carabiner at 9.6 kn.
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Busting Nuts!
00:35 Micro Stopper
02:17 #4 stopper
03:37 #7 stopper
05:22 Wild Country nut
08:08 Bonus Content

Пікірлер: 167

@HowNOT2 8 ай бұрын

Check out our new store! hownot2.store/

@TheSilverFiend 2 жыл бұрын

I am profoundly sad to discover that there is not a brand of climbing nuts called DEEZ. Such a missed opportunity

@markpell8979 Жыл бұрын

Fiend, if you use nuts from DMM you can say 'dem nuts' instead of 'deez nuts.'

@Blizzardmane Жыл бұрын

Not a climber but ive been binging your channel for a while now. Im a physics technician and the scientific method you guys apply is wonderful to see. Note, id trust those nuts with me life. They be stronk!

@petewhittington9399 2 жыл бұрын

In the slow mo (@3:55 ish) you can see 13.8 KN, so your guess of 13 to 15 is spot on. Have you done this sort of thing before? 😊

@Johnny_Cash_Flow 2 жыл бұрын

Good catch.

@unknown-ql1fk 2 жыл бұрын

Diy, the filiment is commonly used as an oil resivor to release oil for the wires rubbing each other and prevent rust

@justindunlap1235 2 жыл бұрын

Ryan just had to shake his nuts on camera. Thanks for another great video.

@MAV3NX Жыл бұрын

One of the things I love about this channel is the fact that you feel a bit more comfortable with what a good placement will and won't support. Keep up the kicka$$ work!

@michaelolague2806 2 жыл бұрын

All your vids are good, and I watch them all, BUT THIS is the kind of vid I like to watch!!! Super interesting and super entertaining

@jaredweaver5131 2 жыл бұрын

I’d like to see micro nuts on the drop tower. It would be sweet to see what they break in a realistic dynamic load

@BenjaminLovelady 2 жыл бұрын

Stoked for that interview!

@zachary8989 2 жыл бұрын

Cool to see. Would’ve been nice to check the smaller (BD 1-3) sizes that have very low MBS

@isaacmuller-wild9599 2 жыл бұрын

Hi! I did some basic math to work out the force on that redirect using your estimates for the force and angle: assuming an angle of 95 degrees, the force would’ve been between 17.6kN and 20.3kN, assuming an angle of 120 degrees it would’ve been between 13kN and 15kN. Both of these would’ve been acting straight out, at half of the angle between the two ropes. Keep in mind though that this assumes a perfect, static situation (no movement) and I often suck at getting correct answers

@grandolph9281 2 жыл бұрын

Loved the close up Money Shots of that granite!

@schwiftyoliver77 2 жыл бұрын

Great vid Ryan!

@ineedanap799 2 жыл бұрын

The reason there is filament inside of the steel cable is because the play lets the cable bend / flex and evenly dispersed the weight across the the making it much more reliable and less likely to get cut on rock, Metal cord cables are normally only used for lateral force and static tension

@Kackspack0815 2 жыл бұрын

Wild fire in the background-badass! 😄

@RippDrive 2 жыл бұрын

Since the wires seem to be what is breaking most of the time I'd be curious how choice of racking biner might effect breaking strength. A round stock HMS should work to see if it's an idea worth looking into.

@shepvail3834 2 жыл бұрын

I like your videos they’re interesting and I like learning more on climbing gear

@leavventuredelchechin4199 2 жыл бұрын

interesting results !

@QbutNotTheQ 2 жыл бұрын

Great info

@padraig0 2 жыл бұрын

My understanding (I can't verify this, it's just what I have been told) is that the filament in the steel braid is a way for the manufacturer to track production. Different filament colors indicate different times (years?) of production.

@miles11we 2 жыл бұрын

I know a lot of larger steel cables will have a soft core and apparently the core being able to be squeezed improves elongation properties, reduces wear/premature failure due to inner stands rubbing against eachother while being squeezed by the outer strands and probably some other important stuff.

@blindmixer88 2 жыл бұрын

this is how manufacturers track ropes as well

@derekatwood6236 2 жыл бұрын

It's there to retain shape of the wire and prevent kinks?

@Hrbrgggr 2 жыл бұрын

I think they do this with ropes too and thought about the same here.

@jskemp4 2 жыл бұрын

The wild country Rock nuts are OLD, based on the manufacture markings and MEC price tags they are around 40 years old. They still have original tags as you can see when Ryan is holding the big bundle.

@nicksenske662 2 жыл бұрын

Your redirect could experience as much as double the force on one strand. The line has a tension which you are measuring with the dyno, and the redirect gets pulled twice, once from each end of the line going through it.

@RTmadnesstoo 2 жыл бұрын

That's what I remember from Statics class years ago. I might have to drag my books out to refresh.

@thomasthurman9963 2 жыл бұрын

thanks Ryan

@g02n2 2 жыл бұрын

Super interesting - given that the nuts broke at the cable I've just decided to replace all mine, I'd assumed that because the nuts looked good .... but it's the cables I need to pay more attention to. !! Thanks again HNTH for breaking stuff, so I don't break me. HNTH = good enough to whip.

@Dazdigo 2 жыл бұрын

A redirect is essentially a pulley on the fixed mount point. It is all basic static vectors so it is quite easy to calculate the forces if you know the angles and one of the force on the cable or mount point.

@mattjones2303 2 жыл бұрын

3:16 my guess is that filliment is a saftey feature to show the wire has exceeded its maximum rated load and should be considered damage. It's a clear visual and physical indicator and only appeared after the wire was stressed to snapping

@jakubmarek1419 2 жыл бұрын

This video is nuts

@calebdeming5515 Жыл бұрын

I don't know if you guys realize this but the future is going to be in incredibly strong fabrics made by companies that initially do stuff like this and I can't wait

@buckmanriver 2 жыл бұрын

Busting nuts one at a time. Great job with the sound! Keep using the mic.

@jf7393 2 жыл бұрын

A redirect is always subjected to some multiplication of forces from the lines coming in and out of it. People often think in terms of static redirects or moving pieces but all the same rules apply even if it's not a "moving" pulley in your MA system. The pulley doesn't know that. Everyone understands this on paper but it sometimes can get overlooked and it can be important in terms of resultant direction and pull force as we can see here where an otherwise bomber bolt is put in tension and pops. Always fascinating!

@chrismarshall4486 2 жыл бұрын

I’m glad you finally admit that you have micro nuts. We’ve got to get this info out there so people don’t think they’re alone in this 😂😂😂

@benjaminnevins5211 2 жыл бұрын

Wow those are some huge breaks.

@kilianhzh Жыл бұрын

the colored strand in the middle also helps distinguishing different batches

@inkwhir Жыл бұрын

Please make a video on the Edelrid Ohm! Such a useful but sketchy piece of gear

@stefanconstmano3 2 жыл бұрын

I love this

@stevewillson9218 2 жыл бұрын

It would be great to see the the wild country single wire super lights tested. My friend broke one on a fall but it may have sheered on the rock.

@davidsimpson3885 2 жыл бұрын

would be interesting to see how pro would hold up in different Rock types.

@DarthZackTheFirstI 2 жыл бұрын

love their faith into things they just stuck into those 2 rock lips

@nickadams2361 2 жыл бұрын

If I ever taught first year physics I would show so many of these videos to demonstrate newtons laws

@jumpmaniaccrazy 2 жыл бұрын

I am curious if you put two carabiners in the wire to increase the bend radius if the results would change. I have done that when belaying sometimes to get more friction when belaying a larger climber than myself. Awesome as always!

@marcwire9332 2 жыл бұрын

I thought about a wire rope ferral I think it is called to increase the radius but your suggestion trumps my idea, if two carabiners get better results then move to the ferral (eye)

@PeregrineBF 2 жыл бұрын

@@marcwire9332 It's a ferrule. Good try on the spelling since you'd never seen it written!

@timestampsometimes 2 жыл бұрын

@@PeregrineBF most polite way to correct someone’s spelling i’ve ever seen on the internet. props

@aussiviking604 2 жыл бұрын

Or you could retro fit a wire rope thimble.

@teddyruxpin3811 2 жыл бұрын

8:19 "...were working on this new clean climbing design of deez nutz"

@karasekjh 2 жыл бұрын

Nice

@flyingdutchman1352 2 жыл бұрын

Oh my nuts!

@ReedWolfewawrzynek 2 жыл бұрын

This made me think, Could you test different diameter carabiners on the wires used in nuts? often the failure was at the carabiner so I wonder how much the bend shape matters.

@Kitsune-Moriko 2 жыл бұрын

I have the wild country rocks. My friend was learning to lead and he took a wip on a number 3. Was a 6 meter fall. He was 3m above the 3 rock placing another runner and slipped off.

@jonflannery8984 2 жыл бұрын

How do you know the peak force was not when the backup caught the dyno? I assume you have a video feed and it might have something to do with the frequency of data measurement…just a curiosity I figured you guys or someone out there could answer. Sweet content. Thanks for sharing.

@howler6490 2 жыл бұрын

Most wire ropes have a fibre centre core.It is to ensure even lubrication when used in an oiled set-up.

@wildfyr89 2 жыл бұрын

I’d love to know what the really little brass can handle. I have two that are kind of emergency use when nothing else will fit and they are pretty borderline about whether they are aid pieces or actual protection. Dmm brass 1, 2 and 3

@aakashdeepmundi7226 2 жыл бұрын

That nylon filament could be for lubricating the steel wires in the cable when it flexes! The plastic core is an essential part of steel cables used in big industrical projects like bridges and towers. There, it also serves as something to wrap the wires around but the plastic mostly acts as a lubricant for when the cables bend and flex. If you think about how the steel wires in the cable rub against each other when bending, the ones on the "inside" of the bend go one way/contract, and the ones on the "outside" go the other way/stetch. This creates a *lot* of abrasion (especially at sharp bends), accelerating metal fatigue and exposeing metal to corrosion. The plastic core on the other hand just gets rubbed off and the polymer molecules act as lubricant. That is my best guess for their purpose in this case haha!

@eliasschwarz2003 2 жыл бұрын

Hey very nice videos, An idear for you, break BD or Wild country friends/ Cams in an passiv placement. Like an nut or so.

@chipper442 2 жыл бұрын

How funny, I actually thought to myself, when you were showing the setup, “I wonder if the redirect ever fails?”

@fire_n_ice1984 2 жыл бұрын

Thats it!? Pretty short video for all those nuts you showed us in the beginning. More! More! More!

@johnschewe6358 2 жыл бұрын

Hard to tell in the video since it is only 2 frames long, but when the redirect snaps it looks like the quick link backs off for a frame (1/30 sec) then snaps. This means you're not just working with flat force, but impulse. If we assume a constant force on the pulley throughout the snap, and the quick link backs off a 1/4in, then the shock force could easily be 3 to 10 times more than the constant force depending on the deformation of the bolt. That's on top of the fact that a pulley takes more than the load since it has two strands of rope leaving it.

@LastCookieToCrumble 2 жыл бұрын

I've been saying this tobthe ladies for years.

@stephenbeyer4315 2 жыл бұрын

It would be interesting to do the same test in a soft rock such as sandstone, to see if the cable still fails first, or if the nut will pull out of the rock?

@juliansteinberger4223 2 жыл бұрын

i would love to see tests on limestone

@vega1287 2 жыл бұрын

thinking of it the redirect can see at weost 2x thr force the dyno displays

@RTmadnesstoo 2 жыл бұрын

Steel cables that run over pulleys create friction and wear as they bend. The fiber core lubricates as it moves and in heavy load situations like cranes will be impregnated with graphite or grease. Static uses like support cables have no need of that extra expense.

@peterlanza5094 2 жыл бұрын

The fiber core is standard on AC (aircraft cable) it is used to hold lubricant to increase the life of the cable and allow the strands to shift around slightly as it runs over and through pulleys and winding drums while under load. Wire Rope does not have a fiber core and is not intended or rated to bend as severely or run through pulleys or redirects. AC cable and wire rope are two different types of metal cordage.

@hardrocklobsterroll395 Жыл бұрын

I know this is late but the brass but likely held more because it deformed around the wire rope more. If you look where each failed, the brass one failed at the pull side whereas the aluminum nut broke at the nut side. The stress concentration at the corner of the aluminum nut was the point of failure. This has implications for what brass nuts should be bought but also for the design of nuts in general imo

@sirdeakia 2 жыл бұрын

HAHAHAHAHAHAH oh god thank you KZfaq for recommending the video that has SEARED into my mind that I'll never truly leave 5th grade.

@wibblywobblyidiotvision 2 жыл бұрын

Wire ropes with textile cores are not at all uncommon, although I've never seen anything that small with a textile core. As mentioned, manufacturers often use colour to indicate manufacture year.

@smeghead666 2 жыл бұрын

I reckon the brass being softer played a part in the piece being stronger, the wire is probably a harder metal so it could dig into the nut rather than getting kinked over the sharp edge of the harder nut metal

@JoshEaton 2 жыл бұрын

I was wondering if the thread was a tension indicator, IE it gets fuzzy when it has been overloaded but not broken. I was also thinking a thimble on the wire rope where it meets the carabiner would reduce the stress concentrations.

@Sarge92 2 жыл бұрын

my guess is the filliment core helps limit friction in the core allowing the wires to move and slice better when under strain to distribute the stress through the cable?

@peterostlermd7907 2 жыл бұрын

I would like to see whoopie sling break tests

@jontattersall1837 2 жыл бұрын

God Bless Doug Robinson ... 🌠😎

@cw7469 2 жыл бұрын

I'm pretty sure the WC nut breaks at a lower-than-rated force because you're pulling it around an edge of rock. The wire breaks where it is pulled over that edge. Interesting both in terms of thinking about gear placements and in terms of thinking about all the variables in establishing a reliable experiment. Given that the wire is what breaks (and given your title), you'd have done well to test micros that use thinner wire. The wire on the no.5 is, I think, the same gauge as many conventional alu stoppers.

@42ford42prefect 2 жыл бұрын

You should collab with The Slow Mo Guys or Smarter Every Day. Would be fascinating to see this stuff break at a 100k+ fps

@Intermernet 2 жыл бұрын

Slo Mo Guys fo sho ;-) Basically anyone with a Phantom hi-speed camera. I'd also love to see hi-speed thermal imaging of the gear when it breaks. I reckon that stuff get's *really* hot!

@douglochery8641 2 жыл бұрын

SmG or even Destin from Smarter Every Day have a history of collabs with interesting discussion points or aesthetics. Break stuff pretty to get the SMG's interested. Breat stuff geekily to get Destin excited.

@NDKY67 2 жыл бұрын

I reckon the fuzz in the wire is to indicate the batch, so it can be dated to when it was made.

@marcushill78 2 жыл бұрын

I'm glad I just retired my old rusty nuts!

@rossgoldie 2 жыл бұрын

You should absolutely test copperheads

@resmarted 2 жыл бұрын

I will never go rock climbing, hate heights, but this was interesting anyway.

@milhollandandrew 2 жыл бұрын

I’d love to see you guys drop a 200lb haul bag from various fall heights, maybe 2-10ft above gear.

@Tzar147 2 жыл бұрын

I Know that some companies can use coloured strands in rope as a marker for year of manufacture, maybe similar for the wires?

@andreagavazzi8276 2 жыл бұрын

What about nuts with dynema slings? I’m curious to see if they are stronger than traditional ones.

@jeryuen6563 2 жыл бұрын

Maybe the fabric cord is also for friction as the cable flexes

@pauldls9972 2 жыл бұрын

Can you test the resistance of dynema when you write on it with a marker ?

@williesnyder2899 2 жыл бұрын

Synthetic fiber core… It keeps the cable formed round, and may help lubricate the wires as they run one against the other.

@TheSilverFiend 2 жыл бұрын

Unless this vid is out of sequence, youve already done a test of obtuse anchoring angles. You are getting a lot higher forces on that redirect anchor than on the test nuts or the MA tensioner

@hjeffcoat42 2 жыл бұрын

Just commenting cause I want this channel to get big. I'm just dreaming but come to the choss pile that is Frenchman Coulee and set up a line!

@mysteria_1305 2 жыл бұрын

for the sounds, if you wanted, wireless mics should work. tape them up on the rock.

@michielvangulik6698 Жыл бұрын

I have taken a 30 foot whipper onto a number 1 micro wedge, it held but when I came to take it out it had compression fractured the rock on either side and the placement fell apart when I took it out 😢

@asgerbahnsennielsen711 2 жыл бұрын

Have you considered doing a dynamic vs static rope test in the drop tower? It would be interesting to see the differens (and the difference in relation to rope length. Is the relationship linear?) :-)

@bmrcmembers1134 2 жыл бұрын

Drop tests on static ropes have been done a lot in the rope rescue world, and the results are often quite interesting. Absolutely nothing having to do with rope stretch is linear.

@asgerbahnsennielsen711 2 жыл бұрын

@@bmrcmembers1134 thought so. Do you know if and where its possible to see the test results? And a comparrison with dynamic rope?

@nowaaaay7130 2 жыл бұрын

That's what she said

@tim_sch 2 жыл бұрын

As fas as I know, the string in the middle is probably for the manufacturer as guide in the first line. The second thing I know is that if you can see the line in the middle your wirecable is cheewed up and is not usable at full load anymore.