Didn't they first claim the electric one was king. Then the Ken onion. Then worksharp . Then you need the upgrade kit. Now you need the pro.

I started out with the precision adjust, very quickly found it was excellent for small pocket knives. It, however, is very lacking for bigger blades, something it probably shares with this new version. I ended up progressing from the work sharp to a wicked edge system within a couple of months.

@@GertTown All you need is 3 whetstones, a shaping stone, a sharpening stone and a finishing stone, and a functioning brain/arms. That's all you need to take any knife from chipped and damaged to razor sharp and mirror polished. Three stones and extremely basic easy to learn skills. Quicker, easier, cheaper, better results. But. Knife land and knife bros are some boy brained man children.

@@jeffhicks8428 What 3 stones do you use?

@@UkuleleJayBBQ Hey man. It depends on two things. One, your preferences in stones. And 2, the needs you have, meaning the tools you have. The main thing that means is high vanadium carbide steels - yes or no. If no, then any high quality stones, I strongly suggest splash and go, will do. For example Shapton Pro. A 3 stone set is one of each type of stone. The 120 to 320 are the shaping stones. Pick one. The 1k to 2k are the sharpening stones. Pick one. The 5k to 12k are the finishing stones. Pick one. I suggest 220, 2k and 12k. Those grits are only for that particular line of stones. It will be different for different brands. A norton 4k for example is closer to 1k in a Japanese stone. You just need to know which stones are which. Now - If you do have a lot of high vanadium carbide blades, steels like say k390 or basically anything like that. Not very common, but it does exist. Then youre going to need either silicon carbide stones or diamond. I'm a fan of the 240 and 1k Sigma Select 2 stones, which use green silicon carbide and cut everything up to maxamet perfectly and don;t break the bank. The issue is the polishing stone. Youre gonna need diamond for that. Something like a Venev will do the trick. Or you could get the whole set with diamond stones but thats more expensive obviously.

I clean mine with blu tac,does the job👍

I thought the same thing until I got this system and began using it. The 220 grit diamond stone is extremely aggressive. Even the 320 grit is very aggressive. I have found that I rarely ever use the 220 or even the 320. The 220 will effectively re-profile a heavily damaged blade. For a very dull and well used blade, I'll start with the 400 grit stone and work my way up thru the leather strop (400, 600, 800, ceramic hone and the leather strop). Most standard resharpening jobs only require 600 grit and up (that's 600, 800, ceramic hone and the leather strop). Lower grits may be necessary for some hardened tool steels, but i think they would rarely be used. These diamond stones are very aggressive. I just wonder how long they will last.

👊

I think it is a little overpriced considering that it still has a lot of plastic. I would ditch the little knife thing and bring it in a lower price. Are the stones diamond, I wonder.

@@scsc9311 It's not expensive at all btw

@@gro967 Yeah it is. That price is pretty close to TSProf level. With plastic there is deflection. I would pay maybe 200 bucks for that if they got rid of the little knife attachment.

I’m a midget with fat fingers. I have arthritis terribly. I have lots of knives. I like the magnet strength of the magnets that holds things together on different parts so much that I found that I am enjoying the ‘magna-therapy on my fat fingers after I tore it all apart. I do feel much better, thank you

Yeah,realy like my worksharp pa but tips are a pain to do.

Edge pro has never had issues there. You just rotate the knife as you sharpen.

Exactly... someone skipped their basic geometry class at school

The distance blade/grindi g rod pivot is far 4:07 too short. There are some sharpening Tools on the Marketing, with a very long arc radius, however all in the upmarket price range

Any system like this is going to have a bit of sweep angle variance. Most of the time if you sharpen by hand you will see variance in angle as well, as most people just don’t hold the knife perfectly as they progress. A bit of angle change toward the tip will not hurt the blade, and for that matter it will not be enough of a difference to make a difference for most people carrying a knife!!

US made ?????? Oh really

"decent price "🤣

Are these worth it?

I’ve always been challenged when it comes to sharpening, so much so that I pretty much buy a new knife when mine got dull. I looked at the wicked edge but that’s crazy expensive. I got the precision adjust and it worked well for me, but was quite limited on the size of the knife I could sharpen. So I gave it to a buddy when I got the “pro” . After using it on many inexpensive knives I finally went after my expensive chef knife and my ZT with great results. So to me it’s worth it. If you can sharpen free hand it may not be to you.

Hi, i think this type of sharpening systems are not sharpening a blade on the original angle but on a forced angle and only if the blade is perfectly round with the same radius on the whole lenght of the blade this kind of system will work and i said not this sysytem but all the systems with only a pivot point. If you are not in accord with me, you can make a video to show with the electronic angle meter to show everybody in different spots of the blade it is a different angle and that can damage the blades and messed up your entire angle of the blade because when you haveTHE SAME HEIGHT BUT DIFFERENT DISTANCE, THE ANGLE BETWEEN THE BLADE AND STONE CHANGE, and THATS NOT GOOD FOR THE BLADES. After few sharpening sessions with these kind of systems you will have on a single blade a mutitude of angles that VARY with the shape of the blade, the more curves or chages of a direction of a blade has the more angles you'll have because, LIKE I SAID BEFORE, THE DISTANCE AND ANGLES ARE INVERSELY PROPORTIONAL then as one quantity increases, the other decreases.

Just keep on using it. You will find out that parts will wear out in two key points because of poor quality. You will notice a wobble in these areas.

@@sharpthingsinspace9721 Thanks, I'll keep an eye out. I've probably assembled it and disassembled it about 15 times and sharpened many knives and so far so good, no negative issues, just scary sharp blade edges. I'll have to switch over to my spare strop panel soon, but everything's working great.

Why does it take 2 hours?

@@davidsapir3764 I wish I could find the channel that had it longer than you. He made modifications to correct the problems but I never intended to buy it so I didn’t save it.

@@jps3b lol, because it was my first attempt. It takes me a lot less time now.

Tsprof do 😂

At only + 5 times of the cost

Hi, i think this type of sharpening systems are not sharpening a blade on the original angle but on a forced angle and only if the blade is perfectly round with the same radius on the whole lenght of the blade this kind of system will work and i said not this sysytem but all the systems with only a pivot point. If you are not in accord with me, you can make a video to show with the electronic angle meter to show everybody in different spots of the blade it is a different angle and that can damage the blades and messed up your entire angle of the blade because when you haveTHE SAME HEIGHT BUT DIFFERENT DISTANCE, THE ANGLE BETWEEN THE BLADE AND STONE CHANGE, and THATS NOT GOOD FOR THE BLADES. After few sharpening sessions with these kind of systems you will have on a single blade a mutitude of angles that VARY with the shape of the blade, the more curves or chages of a direction of a blade has the more angles you'll have because, LIKE I SAID BEFORE, THE DISTANCE AND ANGLES ARE INVERSELY PROPORTIONAL then as one quantity increases, the other decreases.

Hi, i think this type of sharpening systems are not sharpening a blade on the original angle but on a forced angle and only if the blade is perfectly round with the same radius on the whole lenght of the blade this kind of system will work and i said not this sysytem but all the systems with only a pivot point. If you are not in accord with me, you can make a video to show with the electronic angle meter to show everybody in different spots of the blade it is a different angle and that can damage the blades and messed up your entire angle of the blade because when you haveTHE SAME HEIGHT BUT DIFFERENT DISTANCE, THE ANGLE BETWEEN THE BLADE AND STONE CHANGE, and THATS NOT GOOD FOR THE BLADES. After few sharpening sessions with these kind of systems you will have on a single blade a mutitude of angles that VARY with the shape of the blade, the more curves or chages of a direction of a blade has the more angles you'll have because, LIKE I SAID BEFORE, THE DISTANCE AND ANGLES ARE INVERSELY PROPORTIONAL then as one quantity increases, the other decreases.

You are exactly right! I had the same thought watching the video!

@@Joe-lk6oc you can get very affordable stone conversion kits, allowing you to use aftermarket stones

@@nato1405 where can you get them ?

​@@kenroman777Etsy I believe

You can buy those from anywhere, just search for a digital angle guage/cube

Hi, i think this type of sharpening systems are not sharpening a blade on the original angle but on a forced angle and only if the blade is perfectly round with the same radius on the whole lenght of the blade this kind of system will work and i said not this sysytem but all the systems with only a pivot point. If you are not in accord with me, you can make a video to show with the electronic angle meter to show everybody in different spots of the blade it is a different angle and that can damage the blades and messed up your entire angle of the blade because when you haveTHE SAME HEIGHT BUT DIFFERENT DISTANCE, THE ANGLE BETWEEN THE BLADE AND STONE CHANGE, and THATS NOT GOOD FOR THE BLADES. After few sharpening sessions with these kind of systems you will have on a single blade a mutitude of angles that VARY with the shape of the blade, the more curves or chages of a direction of a blade has the more angles you'll have because, LIKE I SAID BEFORE, THE DISTANCE AND ANGLES ARE INVERSELY PROPORTIONAL then as one quantity increases, the other decreases.

Thanks!

Are these worth it

Hi, i think this type of sharpening systems are not sharpening a blade on the original angle but on a forced angle and only if the blade is perfectly round with the same radius on the whole lenght of the blade this kind of system will work and i said not this sysytem but all the systems with only a pivot point. If you are not in accord with me, you can make a video to show with the electronic angle meter to show everybody in different spots of the blade it is a different angle and that can damage the blades and messed up your entire angle of the blade because when you haveTHE SAME HEIGHT BUT DIFFERENT DISTANCE, THE ANGLE BETWEEN THE BLADE AND STONE CHANGE, and THATS NOT GOOD FOR THE BLADES. After few sharpening sessions with these kind of systems you will have on a single blade a mutitude of angles that VARY with the shape of the blade, the more curves or chages of a direction of a blade has the more angles you'll have because, LIKE I SAID BEFORE, THE DISTANCE AND ANGLES ARE INVERSELY PROPORTIONAL then as one quantity increases, the other decreases.

Only thing with the TS Prof is they have an arm for convex grinds.

Do you know the price? I'd say it is good value only if it's under 200 bucks. After that the systems you can get for 300 are way better

NVM, missed it but it's 300 apparently. I'd go for a Hapstone R2 at 250 or 280 instead (which I'm going to do in not so long)

Where are you finding an R2 for that price? Even without stones I don't see them for under $330.

​@@ramonade_knives MSRP is usually higher than the sale price

Hi, i think this type of sharpening systems are not sharpening a blade on the original angle but on a forced angle and only if the blade is perfectly round with the same radius on the whole lenght of the blade this kind of system will work and i said not this sysytem but all the systems with only a pivot point. If you are not in accord with me, you can make a video to show with the electronic angle meter to show everybody in different spots of the blade it is a different angle and that can damage the blades and messed up your entire angle of the blade because when you haveTHE SAME HEIGHT BUT DIFFERENT DISTANCE, THE ANGLE BETWEEN THE BLADE AND STONE CHANGE, and THATS NOT GOOD FOR THE BLADES. After few sharpening sessions with these kind of systems you will have on a single blade a mutitude of angles that VARY with the shape of the blade, the more curves or chages of a direction of a blade has the more angles you'll have because, LIKE I SAID BEFORE, THE DISTANCE AND ANGLES ARE INVERSELY PROPORTIONAL then as one quantity increases, the other decreases.

Hopefully they will come out with some blanks for lapping film

Hi, i think this type of sharpening systems are not sharpening a blade on the original angle but on a forced angle and only if the blade is perfectly round with the same radius on the whole lenght of the blade this kind of system will work and i said not this sysytem but all the systems with only a pivot point. If you are not in accord with me, you can make a video to show with the electronic angle meter to show everybody in different spots of the blade it is a different angle and that can damage the blades and messed up your entire angle of the blade because when you haveTHE SAME HEIGHT BUT DIFFERENT DISTANCE, THE ANGLE BETWEEN THE BLADE AND STONE CHANGE, and THATS NOT GOOD FOR THE BLADES. After few sharpening sessions with these kind of systems you will have on a single blade a mutitude of angles that VARY with the shape of the blade, the more curves or chages of a direction of a blade has the more angles you'll have because, LIKE I SAID BEFORE, THE DISTANCE AND ANGLES ARE INVERSELY PROPORTIONAL then as one quantity increases, the other decreases.

This is true, and I had concerns initially with these types of systems. You can adjust for this as you approach curves, but I have come to the conclusion that a degree or two on a 10 inch chef’s knife is not going to make a huge difference. Especially true if both sides are sharpened to the same angle. Don’t get caught up in all of the mathematics, unless you want to do it freehand on a stone.

You can buy a demagnatizer at any local hardware store

Hi, i think this type of sharpening systems are not sharpening a blade on the original angle but on a forced angle and only if the blade is perfectly round with the same radius on the whole lenght of the blade this kind of system will work and i said not this sysytem but all the systems with only a pivot point. If you are not in accord with me, you can make a video to show with the electronic angle meter to show everybody in different spots of the blade it is a different angle and that can damage the blades and messed up your entire angle of the blade because when you haveTHE SAME HEIGHT BUT DIFFERENT DISTANCE, THE ANGLE BETWEEN THE BLADE AND STONE CHANGE, and THATS NOT GOOD FOR THE BLADES. After few sharpening sessions with these kind of systems you will have on a single blade a mutitude of angles that VARY with the shape of the blade, the more curves or chages of a direction of a blade has the more angles you'll have because, LIKE I SAID BEFORE, THE DISTANCE AND ANGLES ARE INVERSELY PROPORTIONAL then as one quantity increases, the other decreases.

It’s all about burr removal 😅

Pretty much yeah

🔥🔥

Hi, i think this type of sharpening systems are not sharpening a blade on the original angle but on a forced angle and only if the blade is perfectly round with the same radius on the whole lenght of the blade this kind of system will work and i said not this sysytem but all the systems with only a pivot point. If you are not in accord with me, you can make a video to show with the electronic angle meter to show everybody in different spots of the blade it is a different angle and that can damage the blades and messed up your entire angle of the blade because when you haveTHE SAME HEIGHT BUT DIFFERENT DISTANCE, THE ANGLE BETWEEN THE BLADE AND STONE CHANGE, and THATS NOT GOOD FOR THE BLADES. After few sharpening sessions with these kind of systems you will have on a single blade a mutitude of angles that VARY with the shape of the blade, the more curves or chages of a direction of a blade has the more angles you'll have because, LIKE I SAID BEFORE, THE DISTANCE AND ANGLES ARE INVERSELY PROPORTIONAL then as one quantity increases, the other decreases.

@@GABI59042 Sorry, I do disagree with you. It’s still a fixed angle whether the edge bears against the first quarter or the last fifth of the fixed angle stone, and whether the edge is straight or even has a radical recurve. The same holds true if using a SharpMaker or a Washita stone or a Diamond hone or a small flat bastard file to reprofile the edge. There’s nothing about this system that’s going to damage an edge, even if you set the angle at an angle totally different from the factory one, you will just reset the edge profile, which I’ve done many times by hand. I think your basic premise is flawed and subsequent bias against this system is incorrect, but thanks for your opinion.

@@E.L.RipleyAtNostromo i dont know if you do it wrong in this 50 years or you just want to do it like that. I am not a seller or against this system because i have something to win or loose but i will like to see a system that really does an angle for the whole edge the same not like this. Itis simple matematics when you keep the same point and change the distance , the angle changes, it is simple, even if you dont want to admit. And this is the way to be better in anything trying to understand and accepting the flaws, otherwise we will evolve much slower because of stubbernness.

It’s really well thought out!

They have some on gritomatic, premium 4' stone holders for your system, I believe.

You do know the original PA clamp flips with the button behind it right? But yeah for bigger knives you do have to pull out and flip

Hi, i think this type of sharpening systems are not sharpening a blade on the original angle but on a forced angle and only if the blade is perfectly round with the same radius on the whole lenght of the blade this kind of system will work and i said not this sysytem but all the systems with only a pivot point. If you are not in accord with me, you can make a video to show with the electronic angle meter to show everybody in different spots of the blade it is a different angle and that can damage the blades and messed up your entire angle of the blade because when you haveTHE SAME HEIGHT BUT DIFFERENT DISTANCE, THE ANGLE BETWEEN THE BLADE AND STONE CHANGE, and THATS NOT GOOD FOR THE BLADES. After few sharpening sessions with these kind of systems you will have on a single blade a mutitude of angles that VARY with the shape of the blade, the more curves or chages of a direction of a blade has the more angles you'll have because, LIKE I SAID BEFORE, THE DISTANCE AND ANGLES ARE INVERSELY PROPORTIONAL then as one quantity increases, the other decreases.

@@GABI59042 Now, when you say, "only if the blade is perfectly round with the same radius on the whole length of the blade this kind of system will work". That means the sweep's radius much not change from a level plain? This and other pivot held sharpeners can't conform to a radius that tapers. Like a hunting knife, where the sweep may lose thickness in the blade along the sweep - it has a taper along the radius of the sweep?

Exactly, I used one, worried about metal filings then left out in garden

This is right on par with those more pro models in my opinion.🤘

@@zacinthewild that’s awesome to hear