Duhz.

i wanna snort the diamond flour

One question if you can ask them ... can they make a wedding ring ? I just want the band from the ring and if they can make it that can make it more special then gold .

yeah that post was 15 years ago mate, lrn2science

Why you so cool bruh :(

Yeah, the best innovations come from an actual need. If a company is confident enough to use their own product, I'm sold.

If a company is industrially using their product almost everyday for a year and a half and not needing to replace one, I won't need to replace it either, good investment

I looked at the price and seen $95 buck and then heard them say that haven't changed one and they go through 20 rolls of filament a week i figured i will probably never have to change one so 95 dollars is probably worth it

@@nfg_racing7968 That is 1040kg's of filament a year. (assuming they mean 1kg filament spools not the 2.5kg ones). That IS a lot of filament. I was with you on that point, when they said they never changed it i thought about buying it too.

I agree but I worry what would happen if it clogs and is ruined? Could it be cleaned beyond just stabbing it with needles?

@@sallynovember it has insanely low friction which means nothing sticks to it. Your clog could easily be cleared with a needle or cold pull.

No, it's not. I've replaced my nozzles twice in two years. So Ive spent roughly 2 dollars on nozzles. I plan to buy a new printer next year which will use a different nozzle. Explain to me how buying a 100 dollar nozzle would be anything but a huge waste of money.

​@@padrescoutbecause sometimes people aren't God's of printing, or they need to print difficult materials

@@padrescoutwhat filament are you printing with? With abrasive filaments printing with consistent volumes - prosumer to commercial - you should be replacing nozzles pretty consistently. This makes a lot of sense for printing farms. One less part to worry about is worth a lot.

Where I work we've started the Lean process 5 times since I started there 3 years ago, it usually lasts a week or so until management gets bored with it and nothing happens. The worst part is that I've been educated on how to implement Lean into companies, and I've brought this up every time, one time bringing my "diploma". The most recent time I was put on the "working group", (progress!!!) and the day after I heard that the day shift (I work evenings) had complained loudly that the evening shift shouldn't interfere with the Lean process.... I was then excluded... And nothing the working group has proposed has been put into practice because management don't allow us workers to stop and work on it regardless. Edit: and management want the shifts to "compete" with one another to boost production. Usually just ends with passive aggressivenes and retaliation if something is brought up. Exactly like it's intended to work!

did you ever ask him why hes such an asshole?

Perfect example of a bad boss. Instead of fixing the problem they blame the worker for fixing it. I can bet they were also vindictive...

As a lean six sigma guy, these stories hurt. These are just stories of disrespect 😢

Sociopaths make the best management. Lulz.

I guess the biggest question we're forced to ask then is -- why did you leave?

@@nikkolaus ikr

The real question is: does hitting the big red button ten times a day make the big red button any less exciting? Why are we even curing cancer, there's more important science to be done

That is exactly what I was thinking- The work environment seems great, Leagues above most production lines. I’m sure they too have their skeletons in the closet, Everyone does, But I really, REALLY would not mind coming in and clocking a few hours for nozzle measurements.

Did you lower your print temps? Or adjust in any way?

@@thezfunk I left my print temps the same as before switching but increased speed slightly. I typically print on a cr-10s so it's not a rocket sled, but any extra mm/s base speed is noticeable

I've heard tungsten is better because the diamond back still has parts that are brass that will eventually wear towards the upper part of the nozzle. Is this true? I just bought one to print CF Nylon and hearing this has me concerned that I might need still need to remove the nozzle to check for wear, which I was hoping would not be the case.

​@@deelowe3so in the video he actually explains this: the wear of these abrasive filaments is the tip scraping across the already printed plastic. You should not have issues printing anything abrasive with a diamond back.

@@deelowe3 most wear is not the molten filament moving through the nozzle, he mentions that in the video and other people have done testing too with copper or brass CHT inserts in hardened nozzles. The inside of the nozzle doesn’t really wear and neither do the copper or brass inserts, the filament is molten at that point which makes it pretty much non abrasive, the problems come when the filament is solid, like in Bowden tubes or dry boxes, before it gets melted, where the filament is solid and abrasive and after it has been printed and has cooled, again where it is solid and abrasive. If you think about how it wears, wear requires a force to push the abrasive carbon fibre against what it is wearing, like Zach explains, there just isn’t that force when it is molten, the carbon fibres are just pushed through the molten plastic and the molten plastic isn’t viscous enough to create a strong enough force for abrasion to happen. When the plastic is solid though it absolutely can create a force that is enough for abrasion. One point in the nozzle itself when abrasion could happen is when the molten filament is getting restricted and squeezed from its original diameter down to the nozzle diameter, the forces there when it squeezes could be enough to cause minor wear, but again it wouldn’t be much and in the diamondback that section is diamond too, the diamond does both the restriction and squeezing and the contact with the printed piece so covers the major cause of abrasion and a minor cause of abrasion and other than those two causes there shouldn’t be much other abrasion.

​@@deelowe3As far as I'm aware the key advantage of solid tungsten carbide nozzles over these tipped brass nozzles is that brass itself can't handle the temperatures to print ultra high performance polymers like PEEK and PEI.

@@deelowe3 The majority of the wear is on the tip but the other surfaces will wear out eventually, normally it isn't worth worrying about but considering the fact that stainless steel heatbreaks do wear out from abrasion it's inevitable the surfaces within the nozzle will too. If you're occasionally printing abrasives; diamondback is probably going to outlive you but if you're going through 10kg of abrasives every week then you'd be better off trying to track down a bozzle or waiting for deez to come out. ("deez" is another TC nozzle with high-flow geometry)

I hear tungsten is better

​@@deelowe3A solid TC nozzle will outlast a diamondback/ruby nozzle; but it only really matters if you're printing a lot of abrasives. Bozzle likely gives better flow than diamondback though, and given it will outlive it for a similar price it does seem a better choice.

@@ballbous TC is personally my pick as well, as they allow for creative internal geometries (like the Bozzle, which is exactly what I use on my VCore) and you can blow torch them red-hot to vaporize buildup and clogs (you definitely cannot do this on a diamondback). But they're not perfect. They tend to loosen in aluminum heater blocks, so you have to use a block made of something with a lower coefficient of thermal expansion, usually copper (I use a Goliath which is copper, haven't had any issues yet). The neck of a diamondback is just brass, so it will work as-is in any type of block without issue. Also, tungsten carbide is not as hard as polycrystalline diamond, and it has twice the coefficient of friction. In the 3D printing use case, the difference is largely superfluous--at least for now--which is why I use TC. But I can certainly see certain applications (especially in the coming years where even more harshly abrasive additives begin to make their way into 3D printing filaments) where a diamondback might be the right choice.

@@ballbous except the Bozzle only comes in one size and hasn't been available for months. Diamondback should outlast even TC as TC is only an 8 vs the 10 of diamond on the hardness scale. Not to mention the nonstick properties. The advantage of a TC nozzle is being able to burn out a clog.

He mentioned that one big advantage of PCD over TC is that TC is brittle, so smashing incidents might kill it. Haven't used either nozzle, but I have smashed nozzle on the bed few times. Also I work with TC cutting tools on the lathe, one wrong move and they chip off. They are also pretty fast to dull when cutting abrasive wood or even plain old epoxy (not as fast as HSS of course but they loose factory sharpness much faster than I like and are not as sharp from beginning being sintered ceramics). I would easily pay $200 for the PCD insert of right geometry for cutting wood that I would never need to sharpen or change.

He scammed them! Lol

I know, right? Wish there were many more.

Ideal American spirit with Japanese management techniques🤭 Unlucky with the work timing. Good luck next time 😊

@@egeist5793 You say that as if incorporating the best parts of other cultures isn't part of the "American spirit".

@@Vaeldarg It's not. The true american spirit is to try to combine as much stuff from other cultures in a slurry we call "American" without stopping to think if it is good (cough cough imperial system and fahrenheit cough) and be over-protective over, plus slapping the flag and some eagles on it (/joking) Companies like this are outliers in America; the majority of everything is hyper-capitalist and terrible for those working (as other comments on this video will tell you) as well as the for environment (from what I can tell). I was a little surprised that this was actually in America (as an american) because some other countries seem to prioritize doing things the right way instead of the cheap and lazy way like America. It may be the american spirit (hope) to have things be the ideal and everything is happy and efficient for everyone, but that sure as heck isn't reality.

I'm guessing they don't expect competitors to have the machinery required to copy their product.

Goodfellas Laughing Meme "I told them LEAN was an acronym!"

I don't know the exact way they make carbon fiber filament but my guess would be that they take normal carbon fiber, grind it up into a super fine powder, then chuck it into a bowl of plastic pellets and melt it in with the pellets.

@@MaxHackbarthThe better stuff is generally not ground but chopped, to make longer strands that can somewhat self-assemble in the plastic medium--but otherwise, yeah. It's not much to look at.

@@EdRopple Thanks for the correction, I thought I invented longer strands during a thought experiment. Turns out I still have yet to do so!

Bit of first hand advice, dont get too excited. Its a fair amount of work and time to keep it running, and from experience, the minute something goes wrong that you dont know what to do, the printer will sit idle for a month or two. You go through cycles of a month printing 24/7, then 3 months discouraged and not printing. Then one day you'll go "i miss my printer" and spend 6 hours getting it up and running again. If you arent willing to do this cycle, 3d printing is not ready for you yet. And thats not even mentioning when the printer IS working and you just dont have anything worth the plastic to print! Youll beg family members to get on thangs, thingiverse, anything, just to keep the printer running. And then you'll quickly learn they wont look at more than 3 models before deciding to get on facebook and forget about printing entirely.

For real, unfortunately "corporate kaizen" has overtaken for the sake of the bottom line and nothing else, whereas this is for the people and then process

You're in for an awesome ride, pace yourself in the binge watching though or you'll end up talking like Zack for weeks

hardened steel is pretty annoying the the worse heat conductivity, though. Tungsten does not have that issue, but classic hardened always needs a few more degrees and still cost a bit of flow (for me)

For Zack who prints like literally every filament ever, its probably worth it to get a diamond back. He prints with shit that can unanneal steel. For us normies anything cheaper will do the trick.

At 16:24 the show a bambu printer, the guy said that all their printers are using their nozzles. 🫣

❤ Thank You

True story right here!

I worked there for 10 years their training is top notch and they care about their employees its a great company with a great product.

You mean .4 is too small for fiber filaments?

While we were there we all talked about how we like you!

Couple of months!

WOOT WOOT!@@scottschmidt8835

It seems that they can get multiple tips from the pellet now because they said that it was only one nozzle per pellet, past tense

They're not an ideal solution but you can get adaptors to use standard V6 nozzles in the X1C

Do you work for ChampionX? If so, need any beta renters for the Bambu version? I'm about 30 minutes "up the street" in Taylorsville if you do.😊

there was at least one x1 carbon in their 3d printing lab. and apparently they use their nozzles on all their printers. hmm...

it's probably both

Probably

He’s short. Met him at opensauce. Super fun playing hextraction!!

I think every person working there was a giant, Zach couldn't be short...

Totally thought Zach was 6ft+

I was thinking just this! I would pay $30, hell maybe even $50 more for a CHT version. Since the pressed insert knockoff CHTs basically perform the same, it shouldn't be that difficult for diamondback to introduce the product.

@@applepiesapricots3109 agreed hopefully soon

​@@applepiesapricots3109Check out the Bozzle by rentablesocks. It's a multi-bore tungsten-carbide nozzle with similar performance to the Bondtech CHT and excellent abrasive resistance.

Will never happen ... Even IF you could fit a DB to Bambu, you would have to hack into the firmware to enable you to do a PID Tune of the nozzle And Bambu won't sell their printer with a DB because it is not financially beneficial It's the same reason you can't fit a High-Flow onto a Bambu

Coming soon!

@@scottschmidt8835 no way! That’s great news! Bring on the carbon fibre baby!

​@@scottschmidt8835will there be one for the Flashforge creator pro 2?

That was my thought exactly. If I can get that on my P1P, shut up and take my money!

Same. I saw in the video that they had one in their lab, so interested in of they put a regular nozzle in one of those Bambu heater blocks you can buy on Ali, or if they made it custom.

If you use abrasive filaments, you may have to switch at half a kilo... There are also different hardness of brass, price tends to reflect how poor material is used; they are easier and faster to make.

@@squidcaps4308 Maybe, it was original E3D nozzle. That came with a Prusa MK3s+, it just ran more or less perfectly so I didnt bother to swap out the nozzle, then I began to have quality issues but it didn't really matter much for most of my prints so I just continued using it until I finally had problems. Most abrasive stuff I used in it was probably a few rolls of silky textured filament.

my thoughts exactly

Now there is a Revo Diamondback but I warn its not cheap. though I would imagine its the last revo nozzle you would ever need.

Same, and I'm about 30 minutes from Orem!

Hey, I'm a woodturner and work with abrasive wood too. Woodturning community learned to utilize carbide inserts made for helical planer heads for turning tools. Do you think it's possible to do the same with PCD, take some existing cutter insert and use it on a lathe tool? Few hours of research not showing much, most of them are for metal lathe and have very different geometry. In our application we defo need less than 90° included angle on a cutting edge. Please write if you have any idea what I should be googling for

@@avelkm I spoke with our tool reps a few months ago about this very topic and they were more confused than interested. The idea of PCD insert tooling seems like something that never crossed their minds which is wild since its fairly common in metals manufacturing. I can say for the Canadian market Dimar and Peak Tools don't sell them and if they don't, they probably don't exist, unfortunately. I wouldn't be surprised if any industrial tool vendor in your area that sells PCD tooling would be happy to make diamond cutters to your dimensions and mount them on any support you like but that's going to cost quite a bit. That's what we do and it involves a cost analysis each time. If you have particular shapes you produce in large quantities it may be worth investigating. As long as you don't drop them they pretty much don't wear out even after thousands of miles of cutting. The worst they need is a little lapping to restore the edge to new. The PCD tools we use are mostly form cutters made to order from our tooling vendors for high volume jobs where the customer wants, for example, a few thousand cabinet doors with the same edge profile. Its worth it for us to buy (bill the customer) one tool and never have to change it for the entirety of the job and then it gets tagged and stored in a locker for future business. Happens all the time that a customer comes back for another batch and we can deliver the exact same part again because we still have the same tool that hasn't worn at all. Our day to day work is done with the same old carbide inserts and solid carbide tools everyone else uses. Here's an example of a PCD form cutter we use in our shop: i.imgur.com/sTaQcya.jpg Its probably made well over 10000 parts over the past five years and is on its way back to the vendor to get that chip on the corner lapped out then back to work. That's one of the downsides of PCD, its brittle. It will slice through a steel bolt hidden in a panel of cheap particleboard without even noticing but you tap it into the side of another tool holder while swapping it in the tool changer and it shatters. That tool cost about $300 CAD which for the amount of work its done, the cost of getting it made was a no brainer.

Thanks for the reply. Nah, an insert for handheld tool (I was not clear enough, I meant traditional wood lathe) should not be brittle, incidents bound to happen. I was basing my interest on the claim in a video that their process gives non-brittle PCD, so the idea to always have factory sharp instrument was kinda amazing. Planer head carbide inserts are good, but they loose sharpness fairly quickly and under a microscope I can see that it's degrading by chipping off the edge. I have found today a few tools that have similar shaped PCD inserts but no link or price for inserts themselves. Maybe it's not worth it if they are brittle.

@@avelkm Yeah it looks like ChampionX has a different manufacturing method for their PCD compared to what is normally available in the wood industry. The stuff I use seems a lot more like a ceramic matrix impregnated with diamond particles than whole solid diamond which probably leads to the reduced durability against impacts. They really do last for ages but that's in a CNC shop where they spend their entire lives in a tool changer. With CNC machinery we can also exactly maintain feeds and speeds at the tool's optimal parameters which goes a long way to maintaining tool life. I can see it being a hard sell for hand lathe work. Its really annoying that every industrial tool supplier always has "Call Us for Quote" as the price.

Even the cheapest brass alloy not softening at 300 Celsius. I think you talking about thermal expansion maybe?

BTW the landscape footage was beautiful! Much appreciated

europe be like :|