My table saw is about 30 - 35 years old and the blade insert is about 2mm (0.0787') thick. Further the inset consists of 2 parts of which I have removed the "zero" tolerance within days of buying the saw because it was an uneven fit and stock always got stuck to it. The downside is that I always had to clean the cavities underneath the table. Fortunately the frame (made of thick sheet plate) and the table (cast-iron) is well made and still holding up. Thus I thank you for sharing how to make a zero tolerance plate for a saw with such a thin plate.

Your ingenuity and skill and personality make your videos a joy to watch. Great job as usual

Nicely done, and nice way to avoid the thievingly expensive metal inserts.. as you did it right!

That was a great idea making a template to route the underside. -Caleb Harris

The pattern bit router trick was brilliant. So much easier than putting pencil all over the tabs and hoping for a transfer dark enough to see (which is what I've done). Thanks for sharing!

Awesome ShopBuilt project don’t believe I as a beginner could replicate your project and make a plate for my saw Did end up making the orientation mistake on the first attempt thou Thanks

This video was really helpful for me! The insert plate that came with the table saw is exactly 3/32" thick. The inner lip was not straight so tracing it was essential, but then I needed to sand it down some more. The inner lip isn't consistent either, so just centering the leveling pad template wasn't enough. What I did was temporarily attach the leveling pad template and the blank template together until it fit inside the opening. I then secured it, and drilled 3x 3/4" holes with a forstner bit. These would serve as the guide holes. When I made a new blank, I would trace the guide holes with the template still attached. Then I aligned the pencil-traced holes with the leveling pad template, securing it. On my opening (and it seems others' may differ), I have a 3/32" lip on either side, a 1/16 lip in the front, and a 1/32" lip in the back. I'm not sure about the back, but it's noticeably thinner than the side/front.

Great job of showing a way to overcome this shortcoming of the saw. I have an identical saw that has performed well for over a year. I love the portability and it is great for a shop with limited space. Thanks.

Hey, this looks familiar! I did a similar method and used a variety of materials. I made the template smaller, then used guide bushings that will add back the amount of material I removed. I used my drill press to remove the material around the mounting ears. I tried a similar way with the router, but it made such a mess. I did one out of UHMW, and then I added set screws to allow me to "calibrate" each insert, so I did not have to mess around with the leveling screws everytime I changed my insert. Well done! I do have one issue with using the wood clip on the front. I really think you want to use a metal clip, as if that clip should snap, the blade could throw that insert at you (yikes!). I have a video on my channel, but the production quality is no where as well done as yours. Someday, maybe I upgrade my camera/audio/lighting, but for now I just do it for fun. Thanks for taking the time to put this together!

Great job ! Tips:To make the slot at the end, your fence over the plate to keep it in place.

This is a great help. My Skil 3310 table saw also has a very thin table insert. I was thinking of doing something very similar to your method, but hadn't worked out all the details. Thanks for solving my problem!

I like your inserts, I have an older Ridgid saw I had trouble with the maple inserts splittin after some use. I used fairly straight grain material and left it 1/2" thick. I found the arbor nut would rub when I raised the blade, while resawing material it kicked back and split the insert. I use 3/16" door skin material which is holding up better, but still need stiffer inserts. I like the template you made and will copy it for my next batch. Thanks Ryan for great videos and sharing your ideas.

You do have to spend some time setting the saw up... blade, fence, etc. But once done, the saw is great. Fairly compact which is Nice kzfaq.infoUgkxXh-4_3-ZT1fFWP91ZV7iVqzElr0lEb-a I did get an Incra Miter Gauge which takes some setup as well. The stock miter gauge can be adjusted in the miter slot with a little painter's tape... this tightens up the side to side play a lot.

Just got the same saw and zero clearance inserts were next on my to do. Thanks for posting!

Great idea. I needed a zero clearance insert this past weekend for the same saw, i used a 3/16 piece of Lexan. It worked for what i needed to finish, but i like your way better.

Like the video, I have a Bosch saw that has the same type plate. I like your solution better than the one I came up with. I will be copying, Thanks a bunch.

making a template and using a top bearing pattern bit seems like the right strategy. I will do that, probably with everyone's favorite baltic birch plywood instead of solid maple, it'd be good to get some cross-grain support on those thin sections.

I’ve had the same saw for years and love it,recently made one the same way but used 1/4” plate aluminum works awesome.

Yes, it really is a great saw...except for that insert plate. Most of us have tried going a similar route but your method seems to have a bit of an edge on some others I've tried. Thanks for sharing!

Great video, Ryan! I have the Ridgid R4513 saw and have the same thin, metal insert. I guess I know what I'll be doing next time I'm in the shop....

I've used 3/4" MDF and a forstner bit to hog out the leveling pads. The advantage there was that the hole made by the center point of the bit allowed me to fine-tune the level by being able to turn the screws. Still, your idea is pretty cool. may try that the next time I need a new plate.

I have the Porter Cable PCB270TS, which is basically the same saw only grey. I had made my inserts from two layers of 5mm ply laminated together. One cut to fit the top opening and the other cut to fit around all the tabs. Definitely like this idea better. The solution of the template and pattern bit is a great one, and much easier to replicate.

Smartest idea yet on this topic!!

I've tried many ways to make these for my rigid table saw. I always had problems when cutting the relief notches for the tabs though. great solution. i will do this.

Might I suggest you cut one ohe three for a 45deg as you will find you use a lot of those. For the dado stacks, a normal dado isn't often cut so as to have slivers of wood that need to be kept out of being pulled down and caught between the insert and blade. A 3/4" and 3/8" would probably be enough. Just a thought. Thanks for sharing. I'm sure those with a Ridgid TS will find this video helpful!

Very nice. I have. Delta saw with similar issues. I’ll definitely use this information to make inserts. Thank you.

That's the same table saw I have and I would recommend it. Ive wanted to make a couple zero clearance insert plates as well but couldn't figure out how to get pasted the leveling screws. Good thinking brother!

And this is the reason why I've been dragging my feet on ordering aftermarket insert plates. I'll be doing this soon as well!

I've got a Kobalt saw with the same insert. I did what you said and made a couple inserts out of thin plywood. I think it took longer to make them than it did for them to start falling apart. This looks like a great solution. Only problem is the back of my saw doesn't open up to give easy access to directly trace the hole. I'm thinking that I can take a picture of the opening (and a ruler for scale), then resize the image, simplify it to the basic outline, and print it out as a pattern.

Clever solution to remove the material needed for it to be flush.

I bought that saw recently...thanks for the great ideas. Cheers

You should now extend the blade opening at the back with your jig saw or a 1/8th router bit so you can continue to use your riving knife. It only takes an extra minute, and you don't have to worry about kickback as much.

I just bought this saw last week and it's awesome! I was just going to think of a way to make these too. Thanks!!!

i have the delta contractor saw and have the same issue. i ended up buying the insert when the price dropped on amazon. good idea with the trim router. ill most likely make some for mine like these in the near future.

very nice solution to a some what difficult problem nice job

JUST WHAT I NEEDED! I hate the design of the throat plate! after I saw people making super easy custom plates for their other brand table saws my Ridgid is frustrating. Interesting thing is that I saw at my work (what I believe is) an old similar Ridgid model with a thick customizable (DIY) throat plate (completely different seat and plate), I wonder if is a newer or older model.

Nice project. I like the way you tackled that problem. It's something I've gotta do.

Such a great solution making the template. I made a few using forstner bits but they are difficult to mass produce. Good job, subscribed

Davic Cutter's music is EVERYWHERE on youtube these days ^^

Great idea! I was considering using my CNC to make some but that would probably easier. I bought the aftermarket ones when I first purchased the saw and yours look like they are more functional.

Thanks for the idea. I have the same table saw and I bought an aftermarket one for my standard blade but didn't want to have to buy one for all the different dado stack sizes. Ill have to give this a try.

I think a clear plexiglass insert plate would look cool! Maybe even an orange plexiglass insert plate, then add a light source under it? Looks good!

Very timely for me. I need to make some for my vintage 12" Craftsman saw. This wil be very helpful. Thanks!

I have the same saw but a few years older and the cutouts are a little different. I make my inserts from 1/2 inch Baltic birch ply and cut the notches with a rabbet bit in the router table. It works great and I can make multiple passes raising the bit each time to sneak up on a perfectly flush fit. Needs no pattern.

Great video and really gives me a good jump on trying to figure out the inserts for my new R4512!

Thanks for the video. I have the same problem with my Craftsman table saw.

Another Great video, Thanks for all the work you put in to share these inspiring builds.

I thought my table saw insert plates had complex geometrythey've got nothing on ridgid! great solution to a complicated problem!

Excellent idea, too bad I paid about 50.00 on eBay for a insert for the same saw. Good to know how to make one from scratch though. Thanks for the video.

Great idea. I will be using it on my Ridgid table saw.

Just discovered your channel. Very good... And your table saw is much better than mine. .... Regards from Czech. Tom

man that's awesome. I have the same saw and I absolutely love it. it's my first table saw and wonder why I never had one for the few years I've been trying my hand with the wood. the inserts look a little over my head though ha

Thanks for doing this. I have a kobalt job saw with the same issue and this is a huge help for me.

I have a Grizzly 715p- very similar inserts. I made one with Baltic Birch and it was a pain in the ass. Another reason I wish I'd have saved up and got a better saw :)

nice job! I have the same saw and just recently tried to make a zci for it. I used a forstner bit instead of router and it didnt do a really good job. I'll definitely try your way as soon as I have some time. Thanks for the video!

Right good, right good, I plum joyed it. I do like all your videos. God Bless my friend.

You were right the first time that it's 1.5 hp as far as I'm concerned. My Ridgid 3650 is 13a and 1.5 hp. The 110v Sawstop claims 1.75 hp at 14a.

Great video. I made one out of floor laminate for my R4512, I used forstner but in my drill press to remove material for tabs and my router for the outer portion. Unfortunately after completing it, I found the it was warped. I think I'll try your method next with a different material. Thank you for the info.

I used to have that saw. It was pretty good. I liked it. But I found myself in a position to upgrade from it. But it was still a good saw. Here is a idea - find a friend with a C&C machine and draw a pattern and have them make a few for you.

I have this saw and like the performance. I don't like the way the motor is located. Makes it tough having an out fees and cutting angles. I have inclosed the space around the motor for better dust collection.

Great problem solving on this project. Way to go keep the inspiration coming

Nice inserts Ryan!

Magnificent

Great build. I've been looking for a simple way to do exactly this.

Very clever. Great video.

Great video, I have the exact same table saw and have the same problem.

Well done. This is a much more elegant solution than from what I came up with. Why did you decide to put the finger hole in the front?

Sweet! Cool music, kind of a '70s funk, lol!

nice plates. next time you run your blade through the plate try using the fence as your hold down block. just a hint

thanks, I've been wondering and hoping you'd do this. I have same saw / issue.

Omg this video is a lifesaver. I have this TS and am in the process of building a ZC insert for a dado stack. Talk about a brain teaser of an operation. Thanks for uploading your method! Also, I have had some issues with the fence being square, may I ask why you have a board on your fence? Does it help square things up?

i like the magnet idea.gonna use that on mine. I have the delta 36 725 though but im sure itll work.(magnet idea) I actually like my factory insert because I can use up to a 3/8 inch dado stack and raise it almost 2 inches not that I would ever make a 2 inch deep dado but you never know LOL I have a 6 inch dado blade 2 I'm sure that plays a factor but yeah I know what you mean I made a insert for mine out of plywood and it's so flimsy and flexes I keep spraying the under side wth poly and the top with wax and polyurethane but it doesn't really seem to help all that much after a few passes its flexing.thanks for sharing this.

I've owned a Ridgid contractor's table saw for years & this is by far the worst design aspect of it. I used a piece of Luann and used the laminate trim bit in my router table to trim it to the exact size of the original (stuck on with double-sided tape). It wasn't quite thick enough & wood kept getting hung up where it goes back to metal, so I put a few pieces of electrical tape on the underside. Works OK, but the insert flexes somewhat when I rip narrow material... think I'd be afraid of real wood splitting being as thin as it has to be due to the bad design.

Awesome video I can't wait to make one for my table saw👍👍

nice demo Ryan thanks

I'm new to woodworking so please excuse what I'm sure is a noob question. What's the advantage of a zero clearance plate?

I've made two insert plates for my rigid and they broke even the second one that was made like yours. I finally bought one for $30 cuz I mostly just needed the zero clearance I hate buying stuff I can make though.

my R4514 came with a half-inch insert. made a zero clearance with just 1/2 inch hard wood. was simple

I really liked your approach for making the inserts, I tried something a little bit different though. I used a 3/16th" piece of plywood and some double stick tape to attach it on the back side of the metal insert. I don't know if you have the same problem as I do but you cannot raise the blade all the way up because of something on the shaft that will hit the bottom of the insert if I try to raise up fully. Ideas?

excellent solution!

a great video. now to myself some

Awesome. Thanks a bunch.

I had the Ridgid TS-3650 contractor saw for years, the inserts were really easy to make from 1/2" ply. Those look as tedious to make as the ones I made recently for the Sawstop. Nice job! Was that soft maple? I hope they don't warp on you, Baltic Birch plywood would be the ideal material.

great job, I will do the exact same for my ridged saw.

Other than the insert, what do you NOT like about the Rigid table saw? I bought one five years ago and had to return mine for a number of reasons, but since then I've seen that many are now giving it better reviews. So I wonder if they have fixed the manufacturing problems.

Cool. Thanks for the idea

nice! great problem solving and solution.

I am commenting before I watch the video.

Very impressed. And why do you want this zero clearance?

I had to install a 8” blade on my 4520 to make the initial cut the insert because the 10” wouldn’t go down far enough to spin.

this is great I have the same saw and love mine except the stupid fence that never locks 90 unless I push on it.

Perfect thank you now I can make some for mine!

Smart thinking! Thanks.

Your insert plate appears identical to one on delta 36-725 table saw.

Does your saw not have the riving knife? My newer ridgid jobsite saw (4513 I think) has a removable riving knife which made cutting the blade saw tricky. Also the newer ridgid saw have rectangular inserts which make its even more challenging to find aftermarket options.

Great job!

Very nice, I really need to get a better table saw 🤓👍🏼

I have the same saw. I have been thinking about this for a while with making an insert. I had a similar idea to use thicker material and then just drill out the parts that will be where those leveling feet are. I wonder if it will work with a similar concept to your template. Good video!

I have this same saw no complaints except the insert lol... Great job on the new ones you made!!! Why did you not drill holes for the leveling screws?