Glad you enjoyed it!

It can be. I would also read my document on ceramic vs steel bearings and see what you think hambini is doing after that. What you get for more expensive bearings is a) Higher quality and more hardened races, b) higher quality and more hardened and spherical balls, c) better cage design and material d) better overall bearing design, manufacture and tolerances e) lower friction seals (if it is for a fast bearing) f) higher quality grease. His friction loss figures appear to be just made up by hambini, there is no test he can advise on (i asked). Ceramic balls do not just quickly damage races. Steel cage is soooo not superior to self lubrication polyamide cage and on & on. He wants to sell you steel because that is the clever path he is ploughing in a crowded world of aftermarket ceramic upgrades. You can get quality ceramic (like HSC) for not much more than quality NTN steel. HSC is faster. And longer lasting. If you do spend the big bucks on something like ceramic speed, you get a 4 year warranty on non coated, and lifetime on coated. Try and get that with your cheaper steel bearings etc etc. Again read the document the picture is not at all what hambini paints it - he is super smart yes, super knowledgeable yes, but using that for shrewd purposes vs best information purposes (in my opinion). I would read that for some balance, and then you can make your own mind after having full information presented.

he surely works with world teams from that 1 square meter room and his shed with all those sexual remarks he is obsessed with..

Yes correct - i believe i advised to put in either cog 7 or 8? but yes gear ratio will affect, how hard one spins, weight (and thus momentum of wheel & tire) will affect - it is for each to get to know their bike and benchmark against that bikes baseline. So person A getting 7 vs me getting 12 - not necessarily an issue. However it does identify some red flags - pretty much ANY bike that has come in under 5 has had an issue, and a notable increase once fixed.

Also there is usually a clutch on Mtb derailleurs which keep pressure on the chain, so that wouldnt work very much even on the same cogs.

@@gammelgemse it works fine - i have 3 mtb and gravel / cx bike all with clutch - they are all similar to road / tt bikes, race mtb similar to race road bike, training work mtb similar to training road bike. The main thing aside from just a broad benchmark is that it is SPECIFIC to your bike. So if it changes notably for that bike, you know something is up. And i can assure - clutch mech or no, if one is getting sub 5 - there is VERY likely a drag issue somewhere. For waxers bearing checks / DT check very easy as chain is off so easy to feel exactly how BB, pulleys, rear wheel and freehub bearings going. For non waxers and they an easy basic check to know if they are fine, or should investigate deeper

yep for sure, that is great path for all. there are some groovy lil hacks to make more "normal" steel bearings faster (but then with more maintenance), or - a very small amount slower but with longer maintenance intervals. High quality ceramic bearings like ceramic speed, enduro xd-15 - it can also be not so much about some small efficiency gains, but also lifespan. ie on one of the escape collective geek warning podcasts awhile back, zac from boulder gruppetto was talking about how after years of cross racing using steel bb's, they tried a ceramic speed, and just massively enjoying how much easier life is. Vs replacing a bb pretty much every couple of weeks racing, they have now gone 2 seasons on the CS bb and its still perfect. I find the same for my mtb and cross racing. And also if one has a "forever" or very long term plan for a bike - having bearings are that practically indestructible like xd-15 can be great - it is a high upfront cost, but you will never have to replace those bearings, ever. Like ever ever. And so for some of my bikes i really like that. I have an mtb that does most of the winter wet mud training, and cx winter series is also pretty rough - and not having had to replace bb's for years - it just feels better than frequently turfing bearings thats for sure. Still the budget side it is hard to argue, as you could buy a whole lot of sets of quality steel like enduro abec 5 for the same price as a set of ceramic speed or xd-15 - so it does come down to ones own riding, budget, preference. The main theme is that the notion as put by H that ceramic are only faster for about 500km (road!) before being damaged and then slower than steel is provably, objectively and patently false (for quality hybrid ceramic bearings that is, not $5 ones from alibaba) and it is difficult to fathom how a bearing expert would be putting that across. with data from a test that is too this day, secret.

about 1 min for a rear wheel is not unusual as you typically have 4 bearings that are turning over axle vs just two for the front wheel (2 main bearings that take your bodyweight load, 2 free hub bearings that take your pedalling load). So it is double the seal drag and double the grease viscous drag. You could double the free spin time to 2 mins with some playing with bearings, but in reality doubling the spin time when it is just the weight of the wheel momentum vs how much difference this is when it is your bodyweight + bike + gear - its not much. Its something, but its not much. It is the kind of thing that unless this is dedicated race bike and every place on the bike where there is a half a watt of viable savings to be made working from back to front - then sure you probably want about 2 mins vs 1 min for a back wheel. If it is not a dedicated race bike, 1 min is pretty normal for a back wheel that has bearings which are properly greased up. For back wheels on bikes in workshop if they were only getting circa 40 secs for a hard spin, then it was worth a look to see if something was going on (ie a bearing not going great, pressed to hard into hub shell and compressed etc). I need to do a vid on easy low friction hacks - ie - for rear wheels if not on good ceramic bearing upgrade, it can be worth running quality zz shield bearings for the drive side main bearing and inner free hub bearing as they are very protected from elements and do not need a contact seal - these bearings are fast and are what are used in a lot of motors, computer hard drives, rc cars etc and so tend to come with a low fill of fast grease - replace circa every 5000 to 10,000km - but it is an easy hack to put low drag bearings in an area where seal protection is not needed. It can be hard to get quality zz shield bearings above abec 1 level though, you want abec 3 if you can from quality supplier like NTN, or depending on size, some good quality RC car suppliers sell for 1/8th scale and above. But im going on a tangent now... :)

Hi jonathan alas no it takes some specialised equipment to try to measure those differences indeed! You have to rely on mfg claims, but also maths and physics - most friction losses come from chain, chain is articulating less, there are some savings. But they are small - they would never, ever, ever be noticed in your cycling. But, the small savings exist. I have them mostly because i love to make my bikes as lovely as possible, i find some OEM stuff too boring to run, and so it is fun to put some groovy aftermarket stuff on as i have the budget to do so, and so for me if the $$ per friction savings really make no sense at all, its fine, it is still a very small bit less friction, looks awesome, less boring = i am happy :) . I don't actively recommend people go and spend hundreds of $$ on OSPW systems, but if one has covered off low hanging fruit for drivetrain friction and has budget to spare for fun stuff, they are cool. There will be no measurable impact on lubricant treatment lifespan, it is a very small difference in what is occurring in the chain.

I like to experiment with non overseas export market components too . Measuring jockey wheel size influences on efficiency would be difficult to test consistently even with high resolution dynamometers as they experience wear between each test attempt themselves .

Thanks Freerunner! Yeah that is tough as honestly the market is so saturated with so many brands. I have a few that i recommend just from having experience over a long time (and customer experience over years as well so if there have been issues or all going sweet for all in hard use). > Enduro Abec 5 steel - or NTN / SKF / Schaeffler / FAG steel. typically these bearings are not going to be the fastest vs top ceramic options - but they are great quality bearings for the money. it can be a big cost jump to the fastest and unless racing at very high levels - you wont really be able to detect a difference yourself in the speed when riding between high quality steel, and fastest ceramic. But - the top ceramic do have a notably longer lifespan vs steel IF maintained. > In aus - best hybrid ceramic on a budget i believe are HSC ceramic - both my wife and i got nearly 30,000km on our bb30 bearings before i could feel no longer perfect, maybe just a touch off perfect. They do need more regular maintenance vs some more expensive bearings as races are not as hardened as the likes of ceramic speed / enduro xd-15. > I used to do a good amount of kogel when they were a good price gap between them and ceramic speed - mostly for offroad racers as the cx seals are a good option there. but these days kogel are basically as expensive as non coated ceramic speed - my personal experience is that if the worst happens and a lot of mud gets into bearings from a full mudder cx or mtb event - the ceramic speeds recover back to perfect, the kogels did not - there was still roughness there vs perfectly smooth again - so i dont believe the races are as hardened as ceramic speed. > Ceramic speed are a formula 1 option - super fast - yes like all fast bearings need more regular maintenance to ensure best lifespan but they can hold up to much more abuse than the majority if not all the market. Ie on podasts like escape collective nerd alert - top mechanic zach of boulder gruppetto - didnt believe much the claims re ceramic / ceramic speed - but tried for cx racing - and found that instead of replacing steel bearings every couple of races, 2 full seasons later the bb is still rockin. > Very hard to get and very expensive are enduro xd-15 - that is a very special steel they use for races - these bearings are practically indestructible. so it all depends on budget, how serious, or simply how much one enjoys pimping the bike if their budget allows. Then you can choose grease to suit application and what maintenance level is ok - ie for offroad i almost exclusively use ceramic speed long life for the extra protection - i will take a very small amount more viscous friction. dedicated road race bike and wheels - then ceramic speed race day grease. Training bike - ceramic speed all round grease. you can get cheaper greases / again stacks of range - but i like the ease of right weight for application of this range, and tube lasts ages.

@@zerofrictioncycling992 thanks for this exhaustive answer, really appreciate! I will make some research on the market (I live in Poland) and see if the bearings that you mentioned are available and can be purchased directly (I am pretty sure that SKF bearings are commonly used on our market). Thanks a lot - already subscribed to your channel!

nyet - maybe one day - but there are lots of vids out there from say park tool and others on doing re greases etc - and how to access and remove bearings does vary a fair bit depending on ones own crank and bb, and wheel hub, and free hub etc - so again normally one would have to look up how to remove & install bearings for their particular hub or system. But i do have some general groovy hints tips and tricks especially more for the low friction side of things - its on the list, the only problem is anything around bearings is potentially very triggering for some people who are cult level fans of a different channel that does a lot re bearings, so i have avoided the drama so far, and its hard to cover fast bearings without directly contradicting some of the information from that channel, which again could just lead to a reaction. Its weird one has to be careful covering how to have fast bearings, but its the world we live in these days!

ah - thats a fun one. Firstly - where is the information that steel race deteriorates? (i likely know where - but i would recommend reading my ceramic vs steel bearing article - instructions tab on website. I think that will explain away your concern - and on top of that, you can google main bearing suppliers like skf etc - here is an excerpt from their website i just googled on hybrid ceramic bearings; Lower maintenance costs Extending the service life of a bearing without increasing maintenance cuts equipment operating costs. The initial cost of a hybrid bearing may be higher than a standard steel bearing, but the difference is quickly recovered in maintenance savings. Increase service life Because of the properties of ceramics, a hybrid bearing's service life can be up to 10 times that of a standard steel bearing, reducing the need for maintenance on your machine as well as the costly interruptions in production. Reduce wear from vibration Equipment exposed to static vibration risks false brinelling, (erosion of the surfaces within the ball and raceway contacts), which can lead to spalling and premature failure. Lighter weight ceramic balls and dissimilar materials reduce the risk of false brinelling damage considerably. (cycling application is a bit on the vibration front for wheels especially). And from real life - quality hybrid ceramics just do not show issues with race wearing. Softer steel and ceramic is bad news thats for sure, but the high quality stuff - its simply not, or they just wouldnt be made really except for very short life applications. ie if you have a hybrid ceramic bearing, that you maintain , and after 30,000km it is still silky smooth - the race is for sure not damaged. damage in bearings is cascading, so once damage starts, this causes further damage etc at an increasing rate. If bearings are still silky smooth for tens of thousands of kms - then real world application is matching major mfg marketing re much greater service life for hybrid ceramic vs steel as it is the balls in bearings that wear much faster than the races (normally). what one needs to be aware of re ceramic is not the steel races vs ceramic balls, it is that they are almost always designed to be lower friction, and so have low to non contact seals, and a lower fill of lighter faster grease. As such they typically need more frequent maintenance, especially in harsh conditions as water + contamination can more easily penetrate vs heavier contact seals and higher fill of a heavier grease. if simply maintained as they should be - they will rock lower friction for longer as the materials are quite simply longer lasting - hence why they are an upgrade in industry same as they are for cycling. The article will explain why someone may have provided a different opinion to the above...

yes that can be hard to help diagnose from afar re just that - you would definitely need to try and test a few things - start with chain off - spin crank with finger and see if silky smooth or not so much, do same with rear wheel (out of bike) whilst holding axle - if silky smooth or rough / dry - then stop cassette from turning which will stop freehub bearings from turning - if it goes from rough to smooth it is likely freehub bearings etc (freehub bearings can often go before main bearings as they are often smaller bearings and they take your pedalling load, which on an e-bike can be a bit - and they can tend to be overlooked vs main bearings)

Hey matthew yes it is on the cards to discuss a few hints and tips mostly - maintenance is already covered on tons of vids on bearings - watch one by park tool or other reputable site - its pretty simple overall on the surface, however there are a ton of things that can come up making some maintenance more tricky (one quick example would be free hub bearings are often overlooked, they do a high workload for the typically small bearing size, and as they take your pedalling load, people can get caught out over time with them soaking up pedalling watt or two if running buggered - many think FH bearings only come into play when rolling and dont worry much, but that is very incorrect - some Freehubs the inner bearing is behind a circlip inside body and not easily accessed at all for maintenance - others are a doddle etc - so actual bearing maintenance when you can access the bearing itself is simple, but not all hubs / bb's / freehub bearings are easily accessed). And then - thats just if we only need to add grease - what if grit has got in? cleaning properly in situ may not work well, but removing the bearing may damage the bearing - so i am not sure if this video would end up taking me all day and be 1.5 hours long hahahahaha - you can see what i am like once i start getting into detail! But to answer main question quickly - i find it easiest if just using ceramic speed grease range as baseline (you can use others - this is just and easy guide). If it is a long life grease, and you go 100% fill, then you have long maintenance intervals. Maybe 15,000km for dry road. Maybe 5000km offroad (dry). All round grease and 75% - maybe 5000 to 10,000km dry road, circa 3000km offroad. Race day grease at 25% fill - 500 to 1000km dry road - be very careful offroad, and advise against if wet. Wet riding - that is very difficult to give ball parks. Different bearings have different seals, from full contact to very light contact to no contact. In dry riding with decent fill, you have a hydrodynamic grease barrier behind seal lip, and airborne dust has difficult getting past this barrier. But water can more easily get past, and even a drop of water (and whatever crap it brings in with it) has a large detrimental impact on grease performance. So especially a lot of faster bearings - and they are faster in part due to light / no contact seal and lower fill of a lighter faster grease - one has to be on top of checking and maintenance. If one does a lot of wet riding, they really should be running contact seals, and at least 75% off at least all round or long life grease - ESPECIALLY for gravel / mtb - but also road riders will ensure greater protection for much more sane maintenance intervals. It is not point saving a quarter or half a watt in seal and viscous friction to have dirty water screwing your bearing performance and cost you more losses + need new bearings. hope that helps a bit - it might be awhile for the vid!

Thanks for replying so quickly and for that exhaustive answer, appreciated ! 👍

Personally i would a) not run pulleys that use sleeve bearings - they are just slower - they can last ages but there is a reason balls were invented... b) if i was held at gunpoint to run sleeve bearings (remember i am mr low friction so this would be like asking me to run a belt drive - i would be happy too on my all weather commuter if i had one, but not on anything else) - then yes i would run a light grease like ceramic speed tt grease - some brands like hsc and kogel also have pulley wheel specific grease vs oil. I wouldnt overly stress. Specific pulley oils are specific for that application, as are the greases - they will all work great, greases will generally have a longer interval between maintenance / needing to re lube. You arent going to add a whole bunch of extra viscous friction in there if you use a product made for pulley wheel application. I would avoid other oils / greases as they simply may be heavier than needed and so yeah they will last but be a bit slower and also over time get pretty black and contaminated and if they keep lasting, one probably isnt cleaning and maintaining but just running a black mess that is x abrasive as their lubrication for 20,000km. THere are differences if something is developed for a ball bearing vs a sleeve bearing but honestly, i really would not stress about that just run a jockey wheel specific oil or grease, maintain every circa 5000km as they spin a lot, and all will be amazing.

@@zerofrictioncycling992 I’m very grateful for your thorough reply and for the time. These sleeve type jockey wheels are actually on my “commuter” all weather bike. But, the reality is - after watching all of your videos and reading a lot I’ve waxed all the chains on all my bikes (and extras for easy rotation). My wet lubes are mainly sitting in the corner looking sad. It’s been a real experience so thank you.

Thanks CTF yes i have on a long list for future. Grease application varies - ie race bike, tt grease - 25% fill. MTB for training - CS long life grease, 100% fill. Road, CS all round grease - 75% fill. Cleaning also depends on can one easily remove bearing, then seals - then immersive in mineral turps is great, dry, metho, dry - grease (dont put seals in mineral turps or any harsh solvents). If needs to be done on bike with just outer seal off, then liquid moly or similar disc brake cleaner and blast bearing with that to blast out existing grease. Auto disc brake cleaners are great dont leave residue, and are half the price of bike disc brake cleaners as you avoid the bike tax. Dry with hair dryer, re grease. Remove seals from inner lip. Clean area around bearing before remove seals, and work environment clean, clean cloths ready to put things on so that you dont bring grit in from any handling of seals, pick, grease etc.

@@zerofrictioncycling992 TNX M8!

ah theres a number of grease options depending on riding type, speed vs maintenance interval preferences - and some hubs are easy to get into, some need proprietary tools to access all bearings, and some even with that can be a pain / faff. BB bearings typically easier but again most cranks - whatever system they use to tighten require torque wrench, some you have to set preload (shimano) others if set correctly during build it is just a matter of ensuring same shims / washers go back in the same spot. But generally if one is looking to maintain bearings there is a ton of you tube vids re doing that - i can expand (thats my thing!) on a number of aspects and some deeper advice / considerations - which i will do one day when get to make the next vid on bearings. Not sure when will get to that, overall that should be an easy one except for the whole debate on steel vs ceramic, and there is no way to cover that with out some people potentially getting real upset - but will have to risk it one day.

yes correct - it is all about budget vs speed. Shimano BB's tend to have fairly good service life for most due to heavy sealing, but they are also comparatively slow - but only avid racers need worry about a very small marginal gain. However there are plenty of applications where simply a steel bearing that costs shimano about $1 each will not last vs others. Ie if any contamination does get in, thats that. Whereas a ceramicspeed bb if maintained - well there is a reason why non coated have i believe now a 6 year warranty and coated a lifetime warranty. Listen to 2nd latest nerd alert - zach talks about how for cx racing they were going through good steel bbs every couple weeks, whereas a ceramic speed lasted 2 years of hard cx racing. More powerful riders can also wear out just normal level steel bearings relatively quickly vs high quality ceramic balls and armour hardened races. But if a rider has no need to save half a watt, or no service life issues with a $45 bb, there is not much case to spend 7x that at all.

yes correct - it is all about budget vs speed. Shimano BB's tend to have fairly good service life for most due to heavy sealing, but they are also comparatively slow - but only avid racers need worry about a very small marginal gain. However there are plenty of applications where simply a steel bearing that costs shimano about $1 each will not last vs others. Ie if any contamination does get in, thats that. Whereas a ceramicspeed bb if maintained - well there is a reason why non coated have i believe now a 6 year warranty and coated a lifetime warranty. Listen to 2nd latest nerd alert - zach talks about how for cx racing they were going through good steel bbs every couple weeks, whereas a ceramic speed lasted 2 years of hard cx racing. More powerful riders can also wear out just normal level steel bearings relatively quickly vs high quality ceramic balls and armour hardened races. But if a rider has no need to save half a watt, or no service life issues with a $45 bb, there is not much case to spend 7x that at all.

ah that is not good! new bike or old bike? Most times when had around 2 rotations only it has been new bike and been assembled with way too much preload on crank so the bb bearings all bound up. Sometimes mechanics just add wave washers because thats what they do, even though for the crank and frame and bb it may not need them. One build had 2 wave washers on drive side and one on non drive side and a bearings bound up so tight - amazing build job there. If it is that you really want to resolve asap as riding with bearings bound tight like that will kill them quickly. So step one for you is get chain off and then check crank first, the back wheel, the pulleys etc to find where all that drag is coming from - once chain is off such a large amount of drag is normally very easily isolated and can then be fixed.

@@zerofrictioncycling992 I had the chain off yesterday for a cleaning, forgot to check the preload on the bb, ugg. The bb is stock so not ceramic. Wheel bearings are also stock. I guess getting more than 2 rotations is something to work towards.

@@JFomo Yeah for these purposes ceramic or steel is not a factor. Ceramic MAY be faster, but quality steel is also plenty fast - most of the outright speed or not from the bearing will come much more from level of seal contact, grease viscosity used, grease fill level, cage & bearing overall design & mfg tolerance & quality and material quality, and after all that - if it is a great bearing, then a ceramic ball will be a little bit faster than a steel ball - and if races are very high quality and maintenance is good, then the bearing will last longer than a steel bearing. But cheaper ceramic / not maintained can last a lot less as the balls will become carbide cutters into the steel races. For you none of that should matter unless a bearing/s old and has gone to pot. Quality steel bearings generally easily attain around 8 to 10 drivetrain revolutions in above test no problems if things are as they should be. If things are under 5 or 6, then possibly it is worth checking everything over (especially if its a race bike). If its under 5, then pretty much guaranteed there is a high drag area to fix, and its normally easily found. And ha yeah 2 - there is going to be a problem! Common culprit for that is bb preload way too tight, or seized bearing somewhere.

Hey richard - needs to be a bit of a process of elimination. WHat is the rear wheel without chain connected? (about 1 to 1.5mins is "normal") what is crank spins? (about 10 is normal) are pulleys ok? was test done with a freshly wax chain - a freshly wax chain will knock about 5 drivetrain spins off, needs to be done after properly broken in post a ride. Check those and let me know! :)

@@zerofrictioncycling992 Adam, really appreciate your help. Rear wheel spin forward 30 secs, spin backwards only 12 secs. Cranks spin 6. Im testing with a fresh immersive waxed chain and determined to get this sorted

@@zerofrictioncycling992 Adam, a little more information: This bike is a Trek Emonda SLR 2017 and its been in 2 significant crashes. I suspect the rear hub axle is bent. The rear derailleur is ok and it has a Ceramicspeed OSPW which runs very well

@@richardsutton6742 try removing the chain from the cassette. Some tape, wire, zip/cable tie(s) will hold the chain out of the way. Reinstall the back wheel and spin it. This will tell you if your problem is in the hub bearings or freehub body. For further troubleshooting I'd combine this with either opening up the sidepull brake or removing the disc rotor. Rubbing brakes can cause friction. A quick visual inspection is also recommended to check that the wheel/tire isn't rubbing on the frame. If you're having trouble figuring out your bike troubles take it into your trusted local bike shop. Unless you're a legitimately skilled bike mechanic you should develop a good relationship with a local bike shop - and one of the mechanics who works there. You don't sound like a legitimately skilled bike mechanic.

Thanks edgars! Overall i personally use and recommend the ceramic speed range as they are a) great greases, and b) having the choice of Time trail, standard - blue, and long life grease - it makes it easy to get the right grease for the application. Ie i have TT grease in my tt bike and road race bike, i use standard on road training bike, and i use long life in my mtb's and cx bike. People can choose based on application / preferred maintenance intervals. However, i think overall it is pretty easy to get a great quality grease from reputable companies - ie kogels grease will be great, hsc's grease will be great, i have also used NFS grease which is brilliant as can be used in bearings and freehub - if you get the grease from a quality bearing player - it will be great - almost assuredly it is NOT made by them anyway, they are just re branding an existing grease of the right weight from a specialist lubriant mfg who make such things for bearings for industry application - so they are just selecting and recommending a grease that is brilliant for bicycle bearing use application that they have tested in their bearings. If you go CS, kogel, HSC etc - you cant go wrong, just stay on top of maintenance intervals for your riding and also grease fill level you put in - which also part of balancing speed vs maintenance intervals.

hambini fans should read this first - zerofrictioncycling.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Hybrid-Ceramic-Vs-Steel-Bearings-Article-2.pdf (ceramic vs steel bearings - instructions tab on zfc website - i step through what hambini is doing there..) And.... personally - whilst he will always be vastly more popular than me for a lot of reasons i would never personally be comfortable doing, i think there is just such a waste of a great intellect there. If one attacks and bullies - how much does that help positive change? he could have used his enormous intellect and experience to really help brands i think, vs going for what will get most clicks. If abusing the shite out of cycling engineers is the best way to go and that amuses people.... dear me. Also have we not been, for such a long time now, past where using female genitalia as a negative connotation is public presentation acceptable. And on on now deleted videos he referred to head of Aerocoach as "mr vagina head" and "probably out riding a fat bottomed womans bike" - and since then, and i really try to avoid ever seeing anything hambini, i have seen and heard of other pretty misogynistic stuff. There are lots of smart people out there doing really good things. Personally i dont think we have to support the loudest, most abusive, misogynistic (my opinion not stating as fact), and if you read the document - concerning re some information indeed... I think if one is hambini fan, they probably shouldnt be a ZFC fan, and vice versa. I just really hate bullies, and misogynists. A misogynistic bully is just.... ah... i do worry why so popular. But then that demonstrates my complete lack of social media prowess, but im not going that path. There seems to be this perception that because he is the one with courage to "call out the industry" and such - no - abusing the shit out of people dressed up as being the only one calling out the industry... Is that courage? When his aim for more views is to try to get sued so he can make more abusive videos about how stupid people are? what has that done? What progress has he made in the industry? Heard him on any reputable shows talking about what he is doing to help further his area of focus in the industry? Im sure i will be roasted sooner or later - because they are always a great idea for positive progress, maybe when he does my subscribers will take a jump so that will be great :)

@@zerofrictioncycling992 Keep doing what you do.. the silent majority of your subscribers/viewers support you.

@@zerofrictioncycling992 Thanks for addressing the mysogyny in Hambini's content, it's really problematic. It's a shame that it's mixed with such high quality engineering.

HI daniel sorry delay reply im bad at getting back to all the videos and checking! Alas no, that is a dark magic indeed. CS have tested their own vs some other main competitor using the super sensitive equipment from friction facts - so mostly i stock CS tt grease, all round and long life grease - as it is an easy makes sense range to recommend for ones race bike / wheels vs road vs offroad or heavy duty / weather use. i have no doubt that many other brands greases are similarly excellent (ie kogel have a grease for their bearings as do other brands). Main thing is to maintain the grease fill as needed. if one puts a low level of a fast grease in, it will need maintenance again in short order, and definitely before wet weather. IF one does a 100% fill of long life grease, maintenance will be longer - how long depends on their riding / conditions. There are ball park km guides but a ballpark guide can let someone down if they fall outside that ballpark. Hence it is best for people to get to learning the feel of their bearings - they will then know straight away when they need attention if maintenance has gone a tad long, or if contamination post wet ride has happened etc, and if they get straight onto it, save bearing from damage and not need to replace. Other good practices like if one has a solid wet mtb or cx race (or even solid wet road race) coming up, fill those bearings and they will then be protected. It is better to have 1/2 to a watt extra viscous friction from grease fill vs having x watts extra from bearings running with gritty contamination in them, and then have to buy new bearings... :)

yeah that will be a video for another day - but yes..... a lot of the steel vs ceramic information in that video by Hambini is a.......concern - including that the test appears to be non existent(and i hope i am wrong - but i can find zero evidence such a test was conducted, even from hambini) and the numbers used are just the numbers he wanted to use. Combined with fact that even the major manufacturers (NTN / SKF etc) promote hybrid ceramic as lower friction AND LONGER LASTING by many time vs steel - which, simple reality - they are, polymide cages for cycling are superior vs steel and so on. So why is someone who has a huge amount more knowledge than i do on bearings putting forward information that steel is superior to hybrid ceramic? Again, i hope i am incorrect but my concern is that as the ceramic bearing upgrade market is so saturated with so many players, it is shrewd to instead plough a different path that actually, that is all a con job, quality steel is actually superior. I had written to hambini with a bunch of questions, including what was the test, how was it conducted, on what rig, by whom etc - and mostly i just received a lot of swear words in reply :) - if you are a hambini fan, that may or may not surprise you. May i say i was very diplomatic in my questions - i am diplomatic guy. I hope when raised again that more clarity can be obtained. This is going back awhile when hambini was very fiery - he appears to have toned down from his first couple years, i think because most of his early vids had to be removed which hurts his monetization. He does great work in an area that no one else is really doing such work, and so i would like to understand his stance on steel vs hybrid ceramic, as honestly, it just does not line up with easily obtained independent knowledge that anyone can google that has hybrid ceramic superior. And also i spoke the the technical sales manager of miniature bearings australia back at this time, they sell every type of bearing you can think of - and he clearly , absolutely rated hybrid ceramic the superior choice for cycling. I could go on a lot, but i a document covering the full investigation in instructions tab. zerofrictioncycling.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Hybrid-Ceramic-Vs-Steel-Bearings-Article-2.pdf

Sort of yes, sort of no. For cycling speeds we do not need anything better than ABEC 3. What really matters is material quality, overall design etc. Some companies are selling say abec7 or 9 - that rating is just a mfg tolerance rating. So it can be a very high tolerance, but if the material is not sufficient quality (ie low grade balls, low grade steel races) then the bearing will not last long. However an ABEC 3 bearing - perfectly good tolerances for cycling, no one hits circa 10,000 cadence - but is very high grade balls and well hardened high grade chromium steel races - that bearing will last vastly longer and be high performing for a very long time. Where it gets confusing is some manufacturers will use abec rating as a way to denote an upgrade in quality. Ie enduro ABEC 5 are a higher grade ball and races than their abec 3. But it is not the abec rating making it a better bearing for cycling, it is the material quality. Have a look at i think it is bones bearings for skateboards - they have great article on abec ratings and quality that explains really well - but overall - aside from if mfg are using the rating to denote a higher level quality - the abec rating itself is meaningless for cycling application, the material and mfg quality is what matters. I would take a high quality abec 3 over a shit material abec 7 or 9 bearing every day of the week. It is a common con job espeically of cheaper ceramic "upgrades" to market a high abec rating - but what they are made of is shit. But they are counting on that many will think wow abec 9, that must be better quality than abec 5 or 3 - when it is not the case at all - it is just a tolerance rating only, nothing about the quality of the materials used. If the bearing is relatively cheap but has a high abec rating, that is almost a guarantee it will be made of shit.

go for XT , best quality for price. sram is overpriced like most of other brands. (bike shop mech here)

Yep for entry level shimano bb's are great. They are fairly draggy vs say sram, but that is because they have much greater sealing and grease fill so they are typically problem free for a long stretch (officially they cannot be maintained, so they come packed to go the distance). As long as you dont mind an extra watt of drag vs faster options - they are hard to beat re service life for the price. Faster options of course = frequent maintenance for offroad riding.

I believe it is absolutely simulated (aka, made up to suit the graph and narrative) data. I do not believe at all that it was measured data from an actual test. I wrote to hambini to find out what the test was, who conducted the test, the test protocol and how measured etc etc - and, you may not believe this, i most received a lot of swear words in reply :) I have covered full investigation of this here; zerofrictioncycling.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Hybrid-Ceramic-Vs-Steel-Bearings-Article-2.pdf and i will need to cover this in a vid as well one day

@@zerofrictioncycling992 Sorry, I meant simulated meaning analyzed with software. Hambini is a big user of Ansys software, which is very powerful. I use it for my work as an electrical engineer. A complete bearing set could be drawn and analyzed in Ansys.. all done entirely on the computer. This would explain the unrealistically precise measurements. The measurement probes in the software are not bound by the limitations of actual test equipment. I believe he is capable of responding as you describe.. I've watched his videos.. he clearly has a foul mouth and a short throw. I usually refer to him as Mr. Spock due to the similar appearance.

@@zerofrictioncycling992 Just to clarify, even though I tend to suspect Hambini used Ansys to generate his data, I am not saying his results are good. As in the real world and real tests, parameters can be skewed in Ansys to produce any result you want.

@@user-cx2bk6pm2f Very interesting - however, i have doubts that this tool could ascertain whether a bearing race is going to suffer damage from a ceramic ball in 500km and then be higher friction vs steel, or if it will be fine for 50,000km. So much depends on the hardness of the ball and the bearing race, and to ascertain hardness to a precise measure takes some pretty special equipment - not a software scan. I can see absolutely no way, without running a physical test, across a number of mfg bearings, that one can put into a graph that oh we can see here that the ceramic is lower friction but only until about 500km (500km!!!) use after which damage from the harder balls to the races mean that the steel is now faster. Considering that NTN / SKF themselves market that hybrid ceramic are 3 to 5 times longer lasting vs steel of same, and are lower friction, and in real life we have ceramic bearings after 30,000 or 50,000km feel perfectly silky smooth (as long as maintained) - this damage after 500km graph based on X test is.... well..... lets just say it would really help if he answered some basic questions around that data, and that not answering and replying with swear words instead does not help support what he has put forwards. There would be zero need / use case for hybrid ceramic bearings if his test was remotely accurate, who would bother making them. The questions should have been easily answered. The fact they were not, like how muc off dont answer basic questions either - that tells a story at the moment until such time as the questions are answered.

@@zerofrictioncycling992 It's not a software scan. These are very expensive professional development tools driven by the mathematics of honest to God physics. You may be surprised at what can be done. I use it to simulate radiated electromagnetic emissions, among other things, and bill clients $175 per hour to do so. It's a real thing. It should be relatively simple to rotate balls and estimate wear, using steel, ceramic,or any material with known properties. Run it by Josh Poertner at Silca and see what he says. He is at times within engineering circles.

? they are super. Things can resonate in bike stands. smooth as silk in real life, i wouldnt ride it otherwise!

Thannks daisy - arent Hambini vids often a lot longer than 5 to 8 mins? And on the topic, i definitely, definitely, definitely do not want to be considered in any league that Hambini is in. It is 2022. Is it not time, by some decades or more, that we should be moving away from using female genitalia as a negative connotation - and there is just so much flat out bullying / shocking behavior. I am EXTREMELY anti bullying, it is a scourge in this connected world. Anyone can just attack the bejeezus out of others. Sure it might get clicks - but what does he accomplish? If you attack, the other defends. For all his intellect and experience, how much positive change has he effected? And i would read my investigative document on Ceramic vs steel bearings to get just a glimpse of what he does re information at times. The worlds needs more GP lama's. The world needs a lot less chauvinistic bullies. In my opinion. He has the intellect, knowledge and charisma to achieve oh so much more than just belittling people and companies, and if people find that entertaining, that is a worry. SImilar applies re oz cycle, he has dispensed more terrible information on waxing i think than anyone else i can think of, and this has created a huge amount more work for ZFC to correct. I literally have no idea how many hundreds of hours i have spend helping people save their drivetrains from a gunky shocking mess who follow Oz cycle waxing advice. And, then there is this - www.abc.net.au/news/2022-02-07/sa-victor-harbor-animal-cruelty-accused-faces-court/100810116 Should we really be supporting such people?! Again, if i may - pls never, ever have me included in any league that includes Oz cycle. However re feedback for me, yes i do need to try to get some more concise, and i will try - i think :). Everyone has their own style / personality quirks that can be hard to kick. Mine is i gravitate towards explaining everything in depth! I think i am also partly influenced by the video's and podcasts i listen too which tend to be fairly long, as i like to attain in depth information, and i listen to / have on as i do manual tasks like chain preps / house work / bike work /re setting test machines etc - i like longer and more in depth vs short & surface level, and in turn that is just how i tend to operate. That may not suit everyone. Trying to do something in a manner to suit everyone, will fail. If the longer vids do not suit as you cant listen to whilst filling in other stuff, i completely understand. Again i do much appreciate the feedback, and it is on my list to look at adding in - but the shorter vids if they come will be more of a rarity, i have some in depth topics coming up, so..... they will be in depth... :)

Another channel that breaks up one hour podcasts into 10 minute segments gets constant comments/complaints that they'd rather watch the whole podcast in one go..

Apologies - not my forte!! But thankyou for feedback, i am taking on board. I can't promise i will effectively action it, but i promise i will try...... sort of.... in depth topics coming up!! i dont think I will suit some audience demographics..... :)