I'm using a clone of e3d V6. the extruder is a Clockworks v1 mod for the voron afterburner which turns it into direct tool head and here is the link to the afterburner with the Clockwork mod github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Afterburner/releases

@@loosenutprinting Thank you so much 🙂

@@nerellavenkatapathidattatr9005 No problem

Yea, that is something your mom said when we were talking about you. But I think you should keep your mom's comments she makes to yourself in public, ok?

@@avaviel awww you so mad!!

Yes this board will work with the A10 the only different between the A10 and A10M is that the A10M come with a duel mixing color hot end that im not using on mine on mine and from what i can tell the harness that comes from the mainboard to the hot end PBC board is wire the same for the A10 and A10M. My video should be able to help you be able to get the mainboard switched over and i have this video kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jN5podmi3trMfn0.html going over getting marlin on to the BTT SKR E3 Mini v2 board too. hope this has helped if you need any more help feel free to comment

@@loosenutprintingperfect, thank you!

thanks. The part for the voron legacy was printed on my friends switch wire and are printed in ABS

if your printer is stock you can find the config for your printer here github.com/MarlinFirmware/Configurations/tree/release-2.1.2.2/config/examples/Creality/Ender-3%20Pro and with that you can follow the video on how to add the printer config to marlin folder you download from marlin website. you will not need worry about editing your config if its stock . the upload method I'm not sure about will the ender 3 pro if it use a stm32 mainboard then you need to upload the firmware like did in the video, if its a Atmel 2560 mainboard you can upload the firmware via usb method. i also found this when quickly googling marlin ender update that might help you out . all3dp.com/2/ender-3-v2-firmware-update/

Thank you! For the info really appreciate the effort. Btw I was using the stock motherboard but I have upgraded to skr mini E3 v2 with the touch display (same one as you are using ) with BL Touch Z prob. That's why I was asking you whether i follow the steps as you have guided in the video

@@ayushnayak1 o ok then yes just start the config for the BTT SKR E3 Mini v2 and the ender 3 pro it the fourth one done in the first link in my previous comment. I dont think you need to touch the stepper driver stuff seen the config is meant for the BTT SKR E3 Mini v2 board but always good to double check though. You most likely will have to change the screen seen it probably be using the stock screen in the config and add the z prop if it was not originally on the machine from Factory and the z prob offset will need to be set to.

Thanks's you, I get pain with coding too there's a lot of times when it comes to coding I have to try a few different methods before it pans out. When it comes to the knowledge of stuff A lot of times it's having the right websites that will guide you along the process of what you should be doing and that's why I try to add all the links to the corresponding websites I use in my videos to help spread the knowledge and information plus if I miss something or if there's an update in a new step is added the website at least will stay up-to-date . It is hard to navigate through these how to videos when you're trying to do the process at the same time because sometimes the process doesn't go as the video shows it due to the fact some sort of method of the process has changed because of a update or a different main board requires a little different process and now you're in the middle of trying to figure this out because the video you're watching unfortunately is outdated or just not the right information for what you're doing and it's hard to find videos that will walk you through it without leaving you stranded and you get to a point where you just get so frustrated and call it quits on it and I've been there A lot of times with a lot of how-to videos and that's why I try to do my best with the little bit of coding knowledge I have an websites I know of to share them and try to help make the process of a little bit less painful if there's something specific you're getting stuck on just put it in a comment and I'll try to help you out with it. Thanks for commenting and have a good one

There's something satisfying to see a printer that you've built finally print. So far I'd say the voron Legacy is good printer to get your feet wet with the core xy but unfortunately it does have some issues with it I'm not certainly if it's caused by the parts I used or just by the design that you'll see coming up in the next video but still good print would build another if I had the chance. thank you for taking apart and watching the journey so far

you can find them here github.com/Klipper3d/klipper/tree/master/config. Not all main board and printer will be found in the github link some may have to be found though the manufactory like i did for the Makerbase board im using.

Step 6 is where the firmware is done from the main menu you would do 4 then 2 to get in to the build menu and then all you need to do is tell Kiauh the chipset your main board has and it will build the firmware automatically for you. the upload process will differ between Atmel and stm32 boards in this video i used a Atmel board. sorry i didnt catch not mentioning how to get into the build menu.

i see you found my kipper install video hope that has helped answer you questions on how everything your in ran and stuff

Klipper basically has 2 components. Firmware on the printer board and the Kliippy service you run an something like a Pi. Klipper don't provide a user interface though. The interface he is using is called Mainsail. If you're talking about the top left corner it's what the printer name is set to in Mainsail options.

you get a internet cookie lol. thanks for the comment

No 0.5mm isn't terrible at all until you think of it this way where that would makes up for a three-layer height difference in a print and I know that not how it would print but it the the unevenness in the first layer would cause issues later on in muilt part prints. I was thinking the Z Gantry could have played a little bit into the bed mesh looking like this but it looks like it's the bed itself do the cuz I rotated it and the warp followed

you most like can if your printer use a single hot end and single of dual z stepper motors this board would work and good its choice if on a budget. I haven't tried the the dual z on the this board seen my printer only use a single z lead screw. So far the BTT SKR mini E3 v2 has been a great main board i have been able to get little more speed out of the printer over the old 2560 main board and my print quality has benefited from it too.