Hello!! I can’t figure out what the little metal piece that switches from both sides of the fence is used for? I know on a Dewalt it’s to hold the wood when the table extended, but on my ridged it doesn’t lay flush.

The blade looks like it’s very close to the front of the saw, closer than other table saws I’ve seen.

I had the same problem with the board chipping out when i drilled the holes. I wonder if a different type of bit is needed. Otherwise, I would need to make the board thicker than the final thickness to allow for sanding or planning.

I Have the same saw and can confirm the dust collection problem. Laguna has what seems like a 4” dust port with the overarm saw blade hose “T” connection externally. I found the inside for this connection has a 2 1/2” hose up to the saw blade enclosure to capture dust. The internal cabint area dust collection is left to a small, approximate 1” port inside the 4” round port and shared by the 2-1/2 hose connector off this 4” main port. This leaves very little port volume for collection and is essentially a splitter. The 2-1/2 hose still fails to collect a significant amount of dust and it ends up in the cabinet. The small 1” remaining port CANNOT collect this remaining volume. I have a Rikon wall mount 4” dust collector that exceeds Laguna’s minimum dust collection CFM for the 4” port. Even it cannot collect the dust due to this port configuration and the internal cavity space. I installed a dedicated 2-1/2 inch hose port just for the saw blade housing and attached it to a 5HP shop vac. I also put in a solo 4” port for the cabinet cavity. It seems to help but all the “nooks & crannies” and vast space inhibit collection. I plan to ramp the sides toward the 4” port to eliminate some dead space and help the air flow move directly to the ports. Doing this will be tough due to cabinet access, the irregular surfaces, wiring and saw movement. If anyone has solved this please reach out! Aside from the dust collection the saw has been great. It’s quiet, accurate and easy to move around.

I own the F2 myself and I'm seeing the fence in the middle not square to the tabletop. The dust collection is the worst and I have a dust right dust collector. I'm off 1000th of an inch on the rear of the blade and I seem not to get it in square. the Throat plate hits the blade all the time when I bring it up. It was great when I first got it, but I may go Harvey or sawstop

Thanks for taking the time to do this review. I don’t own a Laguna saw but am interested in them so your insights as someone who has been using the saw for a while has been helpful. In terms the dust collection, I see the manual says that the unit requires a dust collector that can draw 400CFM through the 4” port. Could the problem you’re having be that you’re not drawing sufficient air through the system?

My first one had problems with the lift. It squeezed continuously. They replaced the saw.

I have the identical saw and I have the same concerns.

To clean the sandpaper I recommend an abrasive cleaning stick. It feels like a soft rubber but with the sander running you just hold it to the sanding disc and run it back and forth a couple times and the gunk or caked on sawdust disappears like magic. This works great as well on spindle or belt sanders. Makes your sandpaper/discs last a good bit longer. Just google it and you’ll see them pop up.

I’ve been doing woodworking for over 30 years now and also have made a lot of cutting boards and restored a couple as well. One thing I’d recommend on the underside with the cracks is to fill those w/ titebond III wood glue and fine sawdust. Rub the glue into the crack so that they are good and filled and then rub the fine dust into the crack or just run the sander over those glued areas and the sanding dust will fill the cracks on their own. You can also pre mix the glue w/ the sawdust so that it’s like a wood filler. Then you let dry for a day or two, sand off and continue where you left off. It’s recommended when making a cutting board or gluing boards for any top to wait 7-10 days after glue up for the glue to “cure”. This also prevents “glue creep” from occurring where the boards can slightly move causing the joints to be able to be felt when you run your hands over the boards.

let me know when you are ready to sell it

Hey bud do you know if there is a storage spot for the cross cut fence? I can't seem to find a place where it would store on the saw. Either im blind or there isnt a place to keep it on the saw itself? Thanks

What type of router bit did you use to finish the card holder and what type of magnets did you use . Thanks

My question is regarding the kickbacks mentioned…is it a safe presumption on my part that you were not using the safety attachments for the riving blade? BTW enjoyed the review for sure…just got my saw today and enjoyed working with it

Very nice and honest review. Thank you for investing the time to make it

p̷r̷o̷m̷o̷s̷m̷ 😈

Dry Wd40 lube try it.

Tool review in flip flops? NOPE

Sounds like you used this saw a lot and perhaps it was not enough saw for your work? I'm working on the house and could really use a table saw for the next few projects (I've made due with a circular and mitre saw for the last two closets.) I won't be using it everyday or even every week. This saw a consideration for my next couple of projects including a master closet and built-ins for a home office. I'd also like a saw that can handle a dado blade for building some cabinet doors, which this seems like it would work. Any thoughts for lighter use like this?

...Can Ya Get Ya Money Back?

Um...

Just want to know what oil to use on our beautiful project?