I've been so lazy with that, the footage is just sitting on my hard drive... I'm not home till Sunday but will start editing it together once I'm home... will target upload this month or I will never do it...

Not something I heard of. I would look to grease some aspects of the steering column from under dash, make sure nothing is rubbing, but not an issue I am aware of. If it was super bothering I would just take the steering wheel apart and try to diagnose...

@@P0L0G0D ok, got it

Thanks buddy. If you have the time and space, trust yourself and the process :), but whatever works best for you.

Currently definitely don't have the space to take the dash out, but very good advice. This week I swapped out my twist seats for Dune/Fun seats, simple job but learnt a LOT from the process!

Existem muitos Polo 9N no Brasil? Posso imaginar que pode ser difícil se o carro não for popular lá. Aqui na Europa Central é fácil comprar peças a um custo OK, o que ajuda. Geralmente este trabalho não necessita de muitas peças (apenas fiação/hastes). Espero que você consiga e se precisar de ajuda, pode sempre deixar um comentário :).

If that was petrol this car would be spitting flames :p, but no, it's just water / condensate. This can happen if you idle your car for a while then press on the gas, especially when the exhaust pipe is still cold

@P0L0 Mine drips water I thought it was a issue thank you

Very much agree. Mine also gives me no issues and can also impress me at times. How long have you had your car now?

Bought it September 2020, 72k miles, £1750. Got a Dune/Fun/Cross interior coming for it today (the one from the off-roader looking variant)

Awesome. My 9N takes VW 502 00/505 00 spec. Check your manual or online for your spec. Most oil providers will meet this. Last oil change I used LiquidMoly Premium 5W-40 Basic. My cars spec says I need 2.8L, but I used more like 3+ L to meet the max on my dip stick.

Headlight or fog lights? Headlights I believe are standard H7, but fog lights are H3. Here is a link to the fog lights I ordered: HELLA 1N0 270 255-061 Halogen-Nebelscheinwerfer - rechts - für u.a. VW Polo (9N_) amzn.eu/d/0ymHZeH

@@P0L0G0D Headlight cuz mine aren’t white like urs

I will soon make a video about 10 things you don't know about your polo 9n. I've had a lot of comments like yours so I think it would be fun to share more.

Awesome and awesome specs on your car. I still haven't driven a 9n 1.4 or 1.9 tdi but would love to.

The red door open light should be a default, if it isn't working for you perhaps the LED is fried. As for the fog light indication, my understanding is that needs a modification to the board in the clocks, and I haven't made time to work that out yet.

@@P0L0G0D on my polo 9n i've only got a light for the boot and not for the doors

The software I use is called VCDS by RossTech. You can download the software for free but need a compatible OBDII connector for the program to work. You can buy the connector from RossTech, ebay, or 3rd party dealers. I bought mine off www.mft-fahrzeugtechnik.de/ / www.vcds-shop.de/. Apparently you can buy cracked connectors but I have no experience with that. If you don't want to make this investment then I recommend you have a local garage help with the final configuration.

That is awesome! I would love to drive a 1.9 TDI. For sure if you keep these cars off the road in winter they will last, and you've put some proper km on the clock. The only issues I see coming through rn is chasis rust here and there, but my car sees all year use rn.

Delivered seriously but not a serious statement. Agree there is some response but for sure need to plan an overtake ;)

Hey. I have a 2004 (registered), but I think it was produced in 2003, but tbh, it doesn't matter. As long as you have a 9N model this can work. If your dealer looked it up on their system, it is likely nothing came up because technically, the car is NOT compatible with remote locking (i.e. in the stock configuration). The first step is switching out your comfort module. With this switched out, you can then pair a remote lock. Check out the description for some links on remote locking -> I am still going to remake a video on this in the future since many viewers want remote locking, not the cruise control :)

Thank you mate

That's awesome. I learned to drive on a number of cars, but this is the first car I have owned and the car I've driven the most. Really have enjoyed it thus far and it hasn't given me any issues, just the regular servicing costs / maintenance. My goal for now is to keep it running well, and I will try to fix anything that needs fixing myself. I also want to keep it as OEM as possible, and "restore" it to as new condition as I can -> for example at some point I will detail all exterior blemishes and polish the paint... I never considered tuning, but maybe once I start getting into some engine servicing I would. What do you mean by EURO class conversion?

@@P0L0G0D EURO is a EU echological classification which identifies your vehicle based on the year of its registration. If your car was registered after 2014 it has the top class (EURO class 6) and its not subjected to any limitations. Lower classes like EURO 4 and EURO 3 are not allowed to circulate in specific areas on specific days of the week. For example. If you have a EURO 3 diesel you probably won't be able to drive inside the city on weekends. This is done to preserve the air quality and limit car induced pollution. The Polo 9N petrol 1.4 is a Euro 4 class vehicle, which is still quite handy as it doesn't have many limitations yet. With the passing of time however, as EURO 4 become too old and not up to echological standards, new limits might be imposed. A EURO class conversion is a hard process of upgrading of the parts that make the car polluting. This probably includes exhaust system, spark plugs, fuel efficiency. It's expensive, not economically convenient, but it can be done if you put in time and money. I know of Euro 4 cars converted in EURO 5. Making this conversion could help lenghtening the lifespan of the car as it's common for old cars to survive mechanically for up to 250.000km but become outdated and close to unusable on a daily base due to EURO laws.

I see. I am familiar with the EURO emissions classes, but never considered a conversion. Is you point out, petrol 9Ns are euro 4, and to my knowledge these are not restricted. Now you've piqued my interested in EURO converting -> I would for sure be interested in that to prolong my cars lifespan, and it could make for good youtube content... Of the Euro 4 -> 5 conversions you know of, can you share any online resource, forums etc? Not a high priority for me rn, but I would be interested to give it a read.

Trust me I really don't, but google is my friend and there is a whole lot out there (sometimes) on internet forums!

@P0L0G0D than I really do not understand why this people in official vag service can't find out how to change oil in dsg on my polo 9n3😄

Thanks and best of luck if you give it a try! It isn't a hard job but can take a while so be ready to not have the car a few days and that you have a place you can leave it while upgrading!

Hey buddy, and yes I agree. To me engine sounds good up to 100kph, over this and it starts to whine. I generally set cruise control at 120kph/ 3750rpm -> seems about the limit where engine is still happy.

Thanks

Hey. This is an issue and I believe it's with the coding of the comfort module itself. I researched this a bit in the past and as I understand polo 9n stock modules (even the remote capable ones) cannot do this. You cannot code it in with VCDS options either... your only option is apparently to dump new coding onto the module which overrides the stock functions and allows this. I haven't tried and couldn't help currently. I plan to make a dedicated before for adding new key/ remote etc to your vw, and maybe I can try to explore this more then.

I know however that stock Audis at the time could do this. Maybe a A3 used the same comfort module at the time and could be swapped? Honestly didn't check or try, just a thought.

Awesome, look forward to creating more :)

To do it right, yes...

Thanks for sharing and sorry to hear your Polo 9N let you down, I guess we all have different experiences! As for me, this is my first baby girl and I love it either way. I can also appreciate some cars may be more or less easy to work with, also something I can't comment on, but I have found everything here fairly easy to do and straight forward. Love, yours truly.

Hey, glad you enjoyed! Sure, this is the radio I have: www.amazon.de/-/en/gp/aw/d/B07R5JL8CW?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title, but honestly I think you can find better, but this does the trick.

Thanks man :). Me and this car have been down in Croatia many times, love that place. After Easter I'll start editing my heated cloth seat install, so maybe next vid mid April 😜

@@P0L0G0D well, if you are ever in zadar, write to me, we should get a coffe. I would love to hear about some things about your polo... I want to learn how things work (electric things) in polo...

@@stajpi will do!

Yep... The main issue is the wire looms are not ready to handle extra equipment, and to modify them is a lot of work. They should have had a standard wire loom with all electrical connections available such that equipment can be installed after the fact, but I guess this would make it too easy for buyers to skip the options and upgrade the car with third parties...

Thanks! Glad you enjoyed.

Thanks for the nice comment!

Thanks! I like to see all the thought and engineering behind these little computers on wheels, so it's great to see how organized everything is despite its age.

The VCDS program by Ross Tech is free, you can download it on any computer. In order for the program to connect with your car, you'll need a compatible OBDII connector, but it has to be one specifically sold by Ross Tech. The OBDII connector itself stores the relevant serial code/ activation code for the program to run. There are 3 types of OBDII connectors. All have basic functionality unlocked on unlimited cars. Then for advanced functions you're limited to 3 VINs for the hobby connector, 10 for mid tier, or unlimited for pro. Your options are 1) buy a legit connector from the supplier or a 3rd party (I got mine here: www.mft-shop.de/ross-tech-vcds-hex-v2-hobby-3er-limit/) 2) buy one on eBay (either unlimited or limited with a few VINS left -> also note you can upgrade tiers) 3) maybe there are cheap cracked connector, but I wouldn't know. Lastly, if you think you won't need it much you can always visit a garage for minor tweaks needing diagnostic software.

thanks you :D@@P0L0G0D

Hey buddy. I did need a new comfort module yes, and a compatible key (remote key). Then I installed the new module, and had my remote key cut, and I paired the key. I realize many viewers like you only want remote locking and don't care about cruise control, so I will likely remake a new video for only the remote locking.

Thank you

Awesome, and yes, currently based in AT and often getting into CH. Thankfully Germany doesn't have the tolls.

Enjoy buddy. Still love mine after almost 3 years :).

@@P0L0G0D Sorry I have a correction to make: Mine is a 1.4L but also have 5 gear only. It's a Polo Twist. Don't think it is too much different from 9N

@@iamjimfan Close enough, we're brothers nonetheless ;), enjoy it!

Completely agree that it's a must, really great on long drives -> especially with a 1.9L: TDI ;)! Whether the car can accept a new component (like new stalks) and have working CCS is another story, really depends on the car. In my case, the existing wire harness could not interact with new component...

@@P0L0G0D with my car, on a long road, say the A9, I select cruise at 50 (gps) mph in 5th and see the average mpg going well past 80mpg. That speed selection I’ve found to allow a more continued travel without holding up traffic or myself, and actually a smoother almost as quick journey is made.

@@arcboutant That's a pretty wild fuel economy. I can't do better than 50-55 mpg at that speed in my 1.2 petrol. I need to try a tdi at some point.

​@@P0L0G0Dwhat do you mean by "the existing wire harness could not interact with the new component"? Btw I'm halfway in the retrofit. Gotta reassemble now

@@omarkul5320 For example listen at 12:33. Here I explain how the new stalk (which has the CCS function switch) is different from a non-CCS stalk. The difference is that there are more pins that pass electrical signals on the CCS stalks to the cars computer. In order to transmit those signals, your car will need the physical wires to carry these signals, and if you look at my stalk connector, I am missing these wires (you can see I later install them at 19:45). So in short, if the wire loom had all the necessary wiring in place, you could simply plug in new equipment and it would work, but in my case "the existing wire harness could not interact with the new component", i.e., the new stalks. Good luck on your install and let us know how it turns out! I also noticed you previously asked me how I got VCDS... if you have trouble activating it and are in Bavaria / Tyrol area, maybe I can hook you up ;). Good luck!

Sure. I bought it on ebay. I gave a direct link to the item in the comments with another person under this video. If you google the part # you should find plenty of results. The usually cost 10-20 euro and are likely not original, but compatible replicas.

Okay thank you 🙏

Awesome! Love to sew duplicates of my own. Closest I saw was same color/year but 4 door variant.

I've owned mine soon three years and also have no mechanical issues. I changed pads and rotors 1x and have replaced the occasional H7 bulbs, but that's it. I do also have my passenger door lock not always trigger on lock/unlock, but haven't wanted to replace the lock module yet... opening up the doors is a pain. Great spec and great car, love these things.

Ι have the same exact issue with the passenger door so I usually unlock the vehicle from the passenger door. because my back left door doesn't unlock at all anymore, I do believe that it's not the module since it came with no errors via odb scanner but the locks themselves. Found replacement locks for 27 euros each but it's a hassle to change them and I dont have the tools or the space unfortunately @@P0L0G0D

That's right, but you don't need VCDS for this upgrade necessarily. In my case the j393 control module wasn't programmed how I wanted. This module controls lock settings like autolocking above a certain speed, unlocking when you pull key from ignition etc. If your new j393 module has settings you are OK with then no need for the programming step after install. There is no way to really know the settings until you purchase and install the module though. I would not recommend you buy VCDS for this upgrade alone though, maybe just stop by a garage if post install you don't like the settings and want a change :).

Maybe I need to make a dedicated remote locking video that is shorter xD, otherwise you need to click through this one on CCS... sorry!

@@P0L0G0D okay thank you good to know what i need for it as this is going to be my next upgrade

what was the frequency of the key you use as i don't know which one to get as there are 2 different once's

​​@@aidram0590 I believe per part # it should be 434 MHz freq. I checked the Ebay listing where I bought mine and it didn't mention frequency, just that it was a DA model for 2000-2005 VW. Here is the literal key I bought, but I am sure you can find cheaper buys: www.ebay.at/itm/391925317987?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=5221-175123-2357-0&ssspo=_eRqcMNQS3C&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=lndz1z6krfy&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Awesome. The fucking steering wheel airbag was a nightmare, took me a solid 30min I think. I did see posts online where others did it all via the footwell. In the days before this project I was digging around the check the module codes, access to fuse box, etc, and it was such a pain working out of the footwell. I also wanted the install to be clean -> wires routed correctly, not tapping the front end of the fuse box. I was also worried if I wan into issues I'd need to remove the dash anyway..., so no regrets from my side here :). Sounds like you had a more workable system -> with my change of convenience module I inherited an autolocking setting I didn't like + the CCS system needed activation via OBDII connection, which it seems like you had active already. In terms of economy, I'm actually recording my operating costs currently (for a future video on operating costs) and in my last 3119 km I've used 172.51 L of petrol, or 5.53 L/100KM average (mostly on highway). I would say in the at 80 kph I average 4.5L / 100km, and at 100 kph, 5.2 L / 100KM. I normally drive at 3750 RPM (when on highway) which is about 110-115 KPH on GPS in my car (will indicate more 120 kph at that RPM on speedo). The reason I like to stay at that RPM is because my engine has eaten oil when driving at 4000/4200 RPM (125-130KPH) for longer drives before. I think I may put out a video soon on fuel economy and comparison between manual drive vs CCS drive, because i have a suspicion CCS is consuming more fuel that I do when driving manually.

@@P0L0G0D I did have to research a lot before actually attempting this because I park my car in a public garage (indoors thankfully) with not a lot of privacy or space, the ibiza dashboard is definitely more tricky to remove as I did remove it later on for other reasons, looking back it was a stroke of luck that I even managed to reach in to the connector I needed in the bulkhead through the footwell as the connector was positioned on the far left corner just within reach. I did also have to activate it with VCDS as well, initially I bought one of those cheap fake blue VCDS cables from amazon and managed to activate CCS with VCDS lite and a small laptop. I later on ditched it and bought the real VCDS cable from ROSS tech as I ended up needing it for more extensive troubleshooting (on other cars as well). It's interesting that the 1,2 three cylinder gets such good fuel economy, even on the highway. I have the 1,4 four cylinder (BBY) and the engine spins at almost exactly 3000 RPM at 100 km/h, at 120 km/h 3500 RPM and at 80 km/h it spins at roughly 2500 RPM which I thought would make it more frugal but seems not. History and maintenance makes a big difference as well of course and your car is definitely in better shape than mine. The oil burning and fuel consumption does increase with speed as you've said and I've found around 100 km/h to be the sweet spot. I believe many people share the same experience with cruise control and reduced economy, I certainly noticed a dip in mileage which I assume is due to less smooth driving. Even though it holds the speed constant it doesn't slow down when there's a car in front or traffic, most people naturally let off the gas pedal which saves fuel and allows the car to glide for a distance whereas with cruise control it keeps going until you break suddenly which is less efficient. CCS seems to work most efficiently with less traffic on empty stretches of road.