That's awesome! You're going to love it! Make sure to get some track pads and use good brake fluid. I got some brake fade with OEM pads my first ever track day (on Jefferson). Unfortunately, I'm not going to make it out to any track days this year :/

I am pretty sure you need different O2 sensors than what I used. The later years used some wideband sensors I believe. Your best bet would be to go to realoem.com and look up your vehicle and see what O2 sensors it has listed there.

On the earlier e46's I believe, but the later years used a wideband lambda sensor and I believe those might be different. Use RealOEM to get the part numbers for your specific car: www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/select It's under the Engine > Exhaust manifold diagram.

I haven't posted in a while but I still get the notifications :) I guess it's possible the P0172 is causing the overheating but I feel like that's not likely? In general I'd be more concerned about the overheating issue. Could be air in your coolant system. Could be a bad water pump (I believe the fins are plastic and known to break). As for the P0172, I grabbed this list of possible causes from yourmechanic.com: - A dirty mass air flow sensor overstating the amount of air entering the engine which may cause excessive fuel delivery - A bad oxygen sensor - A leaking fuel injector allowing too much fuel to enter the combustion chamber - A faulty fuel regulator, which may not be regulating the pressure of the going to the engine as it should - A vacuum leak - A possible fault in the coolant system such as a stuck thermostat or bad coolant temperature sensor - Worn spark plugs If you replace your O2 sensor, I've come to realize you really do have to go OEM. Getting a non-oem o2 sensor has bit me multiple times in the past.

@@TheNewMechanic do you have an email or something ? Exchange phone numbers ? I pay if you help mannn let me know lmaoooo

Sorry I don't even have the e46 any more. Check out this forum post, seems very similar to yours: www.e46fanatics.com/threads/fuel-bank-1-and-2-rich-code.1079745/

Whoops! Sorry I didn't think to mention about it! However, if it makes you feel any better, I believe it's usually recommended to replace them each time anyways. And especially if you replaced your pads because the sensor light came on. The light comes on when the pad sensor wears against the rotor and causes it to open the electrical loop. In which case the sensor's electrical loop is permanently open and you would need a new sensor. I simply bought cheap ones on Amazon since it's just a wire encased in some sort of plastic - nothing that any aftermarket company can't easily make.

Hey thanks for watching! It's actually a custom-matched color that I had Leather World Technologies (leatherworldtech.com/deluxe-leather-repair-kit/) make for me. I used a paint card that I got at Lowes of "Japanese Koi" from Behr paints (www.behr.com/consumer/ColorDetailView/P210-7) and sent it to them. If you have any questions for them definitely reach out. I spoke with Shawn from Leather World Tech and he was extremely helpful.

Sounds like you have a leak somewhere. You'll need to find that leak. Could be a bad o-ring or something else.

Oh no!!!!!..... what was the most important part? haha

@@TheNewMechanic I’m just going to wing it did you unplug the battery before you did it? Or is it ok to leave it plugged up

@@Intheclouds-ur1yo Whoops I meant to reply right away and but got distracted #ADHD, sorry about that! When in doubt, you can always unplug the battery. This was a couple years ago but I don't think I did. However, I also don't know what the actual BMW workshop manual says. The O2 sensors actually create their own voltage once they get up to temperature and the DME is going to watch/listen/read those voltages to determine the amount of oxygen in the exhaust gases. I'd be surprised if unplugging and replugging them in could cause an issue. But again, I'm not 100% certain and even though it didn't cause an issue for me doesn't mean it couldn't cause an issue..... Warnings cause I don't want to be liable for any issues you have :)

Appreciate the kind words!

I think he jus got a newer year or sum cuz I need some stupid ass screwdriver bit

Beginners luck lol really though once you have the t50 bit with enough leverage it’s supper fast

@@jeremiahporter7647 Beginners luck??? ok yea probably 🤣

It could be that your tensioner(s) are going bad/rusted/stuck. I remember the AC belt didn't take much force but the main accessory belt did take a decent amount. If you pause the video or look closely I put an "extension" on the end of my ratchet for more leverage.

Thanks guys for watching! I no longer have the e46 but I've learned a lot since this video. Hope it was useful!

Anything that would allow air into the vacuum (anything after the MAF sensor) could cause a rough idle/rough running. So any vacuum lines which are cracked and would allow air in could do it. The disa valve gasket is another common cause of a vacuum leak. And I believe the disa valve itself not working could cause a rough idle as well.

Gotta figure out if it's an issue with too much unaccounted air getting in or not enough fuel getting in (or both). Checking fuel pressures should tell you if you're getting enough fuel in (if pressure is too low then it's going to spray less fuel than it thinks it is). The other likely possibility is a vacuum leak. There are a lot of places that air can get into the system (air intake boot, disa valve, PCV system, any of the vacuum lines). If any of those have holes/cracks in them, then the vacuum will pull air in from those (after the Mass Airflow sensor and hence the computer doesn't know about that air).

@@TheNewMechanic thank you for the info i will do a smoke test to investigate the problem

@@H-B-M- Of course! Good luck!

Thanks Don!