Its probably triggering the anti trap... You will probably need to have the car relearn the stop points. I'm not sure how its done manually, i only know via a diagnostic tool🙏🏽

@@Realpreshaanb ok thanks I'll look more into it on Google.

There's no gasket or seal on my downpipe, just straight metal and v-band clamp🙏🏽

@@Realpreshaanb and i assume you dont have any problem with exhaust leaks?

@@cristiannatea4932 that's correct, maybe try tightening up the clamp more or an exhaust sealing paste

@@Realpreshaanb i will remove that stupid gasket and try again without it

Glad to help🙏🏽

You just had to be that guy right?

Ensure the switch is in the correct position and you are using a quality OTG adaptor... If all fails, you can connect wirelessly with a Bluetooth OBD II adaptor... Mine is all the way to the far left and it works... It must be a K+Dcan Cable

Im using a Samsung phone with an original Samsung OTG adaptor. I tried the switch in all positions - still no luck. I have the VGate OBD dongle, which also does not want to connect to the Protool app. But the OBD dongle does work with other apps like car scanner.

@@reshenkowlasser9784 You can get in touch with bimmergeeks and they would advise you much better

Yes. 1,3,5,6,7 series

Putting it bluntly, not really, i mean this was done almost 2 years ago and when you're in an environment where a car parked in a bay for long periods of time isn't bringing in money, so i got everything done and captured as much as i could... Probably not the answer that you were expecting but I do have a spare motor with a damaged crank and damaged pistons that i want to eventually rebuild. That would probably be a very in depth video

I purchase my spares from any store that HAS the parts in stock or from my local BMW Dealership

You can purchase the thermostat using the link in the video description alternatively at your local parts store or nearest BMW dealership

I can speak for myself since my car is tuned to handle it

Deleting the code for the swirl flaps won't make a difference when it comes to the physical part breaking... So yes it can still happen because its an actual part not a sensor that can be coded out👌🏽

Around 235000Km (bearing in mind that my car is tuned)

1 - its an M47* 2 - it was a faulty injector 3 - its been addressed in the comments 4 - its doing over 250 000 km and the chain is still fine👌🏽

At the time of this rebuild, i used all standard bearings, ARCO brand. The main bearings were untouched since the only damage was to the pistons since the swirl flap injested itself. So i replaced all 4 pistons and rods with the 2nd hand set, all standard big end bearings and the car was perfect. I didn't follow any colour code since everything is all standard sizes

@@Realpreshaanb Thank you for the quick reply, is much appreciated. I have no choice on my car but to change the main bearings as they’re completely wore out, as I said. I couldn’t find many videos about the M47 engines, although for N47 are hundreds on KZfaq, which is weird. I’m planning to reinforce the flaps from the intake manifold using some permanent thread locker, hoping I will avoid any engine damage. 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼

@valentine0606 if you need to put bigger bearings, you will need to send the crankshaft for turning down maybe 10 thou (0.25) so its correct... Your engineer will advise you best... As for the swirl flaps, get rid of them all together, you'll be doing yourself a big favour

@@Realpreshaanb​​⁠I don’t have an engineer, I’m doing the rebuild myself, as I said I did rebuilt two years ago my other BMW E60 with the N47 engine and I never had any issue since. About the swirl flaps, I’d rather keep them as they are because I did try on my N47 to remove them and the car lost power, so I had to buy another intake manifold with the swirl flaps in place and ever since the car drives very good. It’s true that on N47 the flaps are made of plastic so it won’t damage the engine if they break, but for M47 if I will check every now and then to see if the flaps are getting loose and keeping them tight, I don’t see what harm it can do if I will leave them in place. I don’t intend to install oversized bearings as the crankshaft seems to be within specs and I did not do any modification in regard to the cylinder head or engine block. My only concern is in finding the right main bearings and con rods suitable for this engine, as there’s contradictory informations all over the internet about that.

@@valentine0606 Una consulta me compre un serie con m47, pero no encuentro sus partes, Solo consigo kit de reparacion del n47 las partes internas como pistones y kit de empaquetaduras seran los mismo ?

Yes

Tak, przetoczyłem cylindry, wspomniałem o tym w filmie. Cylindry nie zostały powtórnie wiercone i wciąż używają standardowych tłoków o standardowych rozmiarach. (Translated Via ChatGPT)

If you can't pay attention to how its being taken apart then you shouldn't even attempt it, just buy a new one and move on. You should be happy he even showed how to disassemble it. many other people in the comments understood it, howcome you just ratio'd yourself?

Its 50/50, yes it eliminates the hyper flashing but the flickering and codes remain since it follows the FRM Bulb check procedure. It works to make the conversion operational but to eliminate the flickering and codes, the bulb checks will need to be coded out, video on that linked in the description and comments

Really bro😂😂😂

- Stage 1 ECU Remap - Catless Downpipe - Straight Pipe Exhaust - EGR Delete - Swirl Flap Delete - Stock Turbo

If the actuator is completely dead, then you will need to buy a new turbo since the actuator isn't sold separately... However if the actuator receives electrical signals, which means it's working, then yes it can be reconditioned. I've done it on my car myself and it hasn't given issues at all.

I did the turbo not to long ago but what I notice at random times the car use to stall and then there use to be a outburst but now it's gone completely I'm getting no compression when in gear

What I'd recommend is trying to move the actuator by hand, if it doesn't move then most likely the actuator is damaged or the vanes in the turbo are seized

Is there anyway I can contact you will have a look thank you

You can contact me by the email listed on my profile

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/a8yAa5qL2JvIio0.htmlsi=HbsN3gOC-vuCJYJS&t=155

I have no idea how he managed to simply twist them out of the housing, but if you take the housing apart and drill two tiny holes so the bumps on the OEM bulbs can slip out, you can manage the bulb out and but a replacement one to fit back into the same spot and lock in as well.