Don't apologize! Great questions. 1) jack rabbet- I don't use a jack rabbit plane. But, a jack rabbet is a jackplane (Stanley no 5 for example) with a cutaway in the sides of the plane that exposes the sides of the plane blade. Like on a rabbet plane. Basically it's a large rabbet plane. 2) the cutting boards the other commenter is referring to is the plastic I added to the side of my Veritas jointer plane. That plane has a small step on the casting which prevents the plane from being used on its side. Adding that plastic made the side flat and increased the usability.

@@EricMeyerMaker Thank you. One quick question as you opinion. I am getting ready to build one of 2 workbenches. Both would require mortise and tenons. Would you buy a shoulder plane or is a chisel and a block plane perfectly acceptable? The bench will be made entirely by hand tools. Thats why I ask.

@@donniewillis2926 IMO use the chisel and the block plane. The shoulder plane is a luxury item. Getting practice in with the chisel will carry over to pretty much every future project.

Go for it!

I was turned on its side to snake it out of the basement doorway. Then flipped upside down to take it up the basement steps and out of the house. It had to make a couple of turns to get it into the new shop so it was stood up on edge. It just cleared the ceiling. Then it was penguin walked to the new space and put right-side up. I didn't have anyway to disassemble it. I'm lucky I was able to get it out of the basement. The doorway was built after the bench was.

@@EricMeyerMaker Excellent. After it was out, it was like you planned it.

Thanks!

It is a commission so I sure hope they use it!

Thanks!

Appreciate it!

Thank you!

Fingers crossed!

Ulmia single iron plane, Veritas jointer, Veritas bevel up smoother, the small one is one I made based on the Norris no 10.

That sounds like a fun project. I'll add it to the list!

I'm not familiar with that style of wax finishing. How is it done?

@@EricMeyerMaker warm the wood and melt the wax, then spread the wax onto the warm wood and rub the shit out of it. as it cools and the wax starts to crumble off, keep rubbing so the friction works as much wax into the wood as possible. let it rest and come back and burnish/buff it. for the rubbing and the burnish/buffing i was taught to use heavy canvas or burlap around a dowel. different size dowels with different ends to get into different spots. you really want the piece of you are finishing to be bone dry so the liquid wax isn't resisted by water as you burnish it into the surface. it would be done to smoked wood for combs and such as well. the Japanese still do smoked wood combs and plane bodies on the more traditional artisan pieces, the finishes are pretty varied though. smoked wood is hung in a smoker for sometimes a decade or more. the wood ends up really stable after that and is pretty dang hard. i brutalize my Japanese wood comb and unlike all of my other wood combs, it's still in one piece. anyway, the beeswax finishing process it was a pretty common way to maintain tools for something like a thousand years. just rub in some new wax and burnish/buff it back in every so often to maintain the finish. no need to rewarm the wood unless you took a chunk out of it. i cut down one of my planes finished like that to make it shorter and the depth the beeswax penetrated was pretty surprising. feels great too after the waxiness wears off. if the tools our out in the sun or get really hot they will feel a bit waxy again though. i usually hit them with another around of burnishing if that happens, not sure if it does any good other than make them feel better in the hand again.

Thanks man!

Thanks!

Glad to hear it!

Thanks 👍

Appreciate it! Thanks for watching!

Thanks!

I thought the same thing about that angle. I have a couple of antique router planes with similar bed angles and I based this one on those. I'll probably lower the angle on the next version to make it easier to push.

​@@EricMeyerMaker I am wanting to make on to use my antique plough plane irons. They have a wedged shape to the iron being fater at bottom and thin at top. I understand that the hags tooth routers made use of the same iron as ploughs for convenience. Do you think the angle on the antique plane mortice is such due to the angle of a typical iron (where yours is flat)?

@@arick_mnc That is a good question. I don't think the taper of the blade is going to alter the bed angle. The flat blade and the tapered blade would both sit flat on the bed. They both would present to the wood at the same angle. The difference is going to be more so in the amount of taper that the wedge needs to have to hold them secure.

@@EricMeyerMaker Thanks for your thoughts! :)

@@EricMeyerMaker I guess what I am saying, is the traditional plough plane would result in the edge being about 5 - 10 degree further forward on the cutting edge than yours which is flat and at the angle of the blade. Again, I appreciate your thoughts. :) I really enjoyed the vid.

Thanks@

Thanks!

The connection works in after it has been opened and closed a few times. You can open it and close it by grabbing the top and bottom.

It's a low angle plane. If I'm remembering correctly, it is around 37 degrees.

Thanks!

That would be cool!

Thanks 👍

Thanks for watching!

It is an Azebiki.

I'm in the process of adding another 80 square feet. I would like some separation between the metal working and the wood working. It would also free up space so I can move my jointer into the shop. I would like to park in my garage again lol.

@@EricMeyerMaker why separate? I often mill wood, and shape metal at the bench. What about plastic/glass/composites/foam, etc- how are they classified? Every operation involves just you and one 'machine'*; where the other machines are at the time is irrelevant. *except CNC machines- where you do not need to be there.

The lathe and mill have a habit of spraying my woodworking bench with chips. I've had a few times where I sat down a freshly planed board and got an errant chip impeded in the surface. If I want to do any metal working I need to store away any woodworking projects and then cover the bench. If I do any grinding then that grit goes everywhere and all of the tools need a good cleaning. Separating the spaces would let me work on more things without having to break anything down. Which will be especially nice when it comes to finish work. Right now, shop work comes to a hault when finish is drying. It will be nice to be able to keep working without risking ruining a finish.

@@EricMeyerMaker I can see why that would be annoying. Have not experienced it myself (different layout perhaps) but a valid reason for rebuilding- best of luck with it.

Thanks!

Thanks! The lathe and mill area is a work in progress. I need to work on the storage. Everything is a bit hard to get to at the moment.

Thanks!

Sure do! kzfaq.info/get/bejne/Y7ymg8aUspzOlo0.html

The plane went for $1100!

@@EricMeyerMaker that's amazing, dude! Great job!

Thanks!

Thank you very much!

Thanks 👍

Same here! I would love an assistant just to clean. And keep things sharp.

I did it mostly to try it out. I had seen Paul Sellers do it so I thought I would give it a try.

@@EricMeyerMaker Fair enough. Which way do you think is better?

I haven't noticed any appreciable advantage between benches with a flush vise and those with an offset one. At least for what I've been building. The flush vise probably has the advantage when it comes to clamping up long boards for planing the edges, but that isn't a frequent operation for me. In the cases where I need to do that I can put a backer board on and that provides the same functionality as a flush vise. The offset vise gives some clearance when working in the vise which is a nice luxury. I think it is going to come down to how and what you are making a majority of the time on which setup will have the advantage.

@@EricMeyerMaker I was going to build my next bench with a flush vice and add a Moxon into the main vice for smaller stuff. But in the main yes; I used the old one for holding longer boards and an occasional mitre box.