Cascview keeps on telling me that it cannot find the file specified whenever I click on StarCraft 2 and isn't able to open it. Anyone know how to fix this?

Unfortunately this method to tighten the belts does not work for long time and old belts. The distance to move those parts are just way too short, especially the y-axis has almost no distance to play. What do you think? Do i need to replace the belts. I don't even know if they are available somewhere in a good quality and correct length. In my opinion, Artillery just didn't design this printer to run over many years, otherwise they would have added a real belt tensioner or something similar

Why you dont make more Videos?

He did what needed to be done 🫡

Wow! thanks for sharing ! my friend is a fan of Clive Barker, we' ll try it as soon we receive his 3D printer <3

Thank you, for the infor. I just needed to know if it was conductive.

Is this the new one with safe, or the original?

How are you sure it wasn't because you changed to the red filament?

The IdeaMaker has more options if you have the Raise3D printers along with the updates of the slicer.

Where do you get the the VEGA App from?

does the spring cups are 3d printed?

Ahh Hah, you found THE secret. I found it after messing with a Neptune 2S for four days.

what size was the model? (sorry for asking like 5 years later)

How would I find Thor?

hi man... how can I extract the UV map for those models... what is the file extention?

hello do you know some already fat springs that you buy online instead of making them for this printer?

amazing video! Im going to try to make a starport for 3d printing. Any advice? Wish me luck!

Some of my resin miniatures look wet after curing and stay that way for a long time, I've seen it happen to other people, does anyone know how to fix it???

Bizim İstanbul şehri 🇹🇷 Tıpkı Meksikanın 🇲🇽 mexico City şehrine çok benziyor. onun gibi kalabalık ve birebiri... 🙏🙏🙏👌👌👌💝💝💝🙂🙂🙂🙂✔️✔️✔️ Nuh Pınar, Dadaş, Türk, Türkiye /Erzurum şehri... ✔️

I cant even get my x1 to print correctly it could be the fact I dont know much im super new to 3d printing

Is it possible to print this on a Ender 3 FDM machine.

Make it bigger to fit 3" figures

A video on replacing the belts would be great!!!

What's the length of the Z rod?

What checkbox setting are you talking about? Your screen is too small to read and you only mumbled it once, something something infill.

Haha remember face shields that ended up doing nothing? 🤣

Hmm PETG still oozes/strings for me even with this setting off in Cura. Oh wells thanks for the note anyways. Cheers

mine is not checked on prusaslicer but still happends

Thank you !

Spraying Isopropanol alcohol on hot glue helps removing it with ease.

Do you print petg directly on stock build plate??

Trying it now.. 🤞🙏

Thanks Igor - I have the same printer and after using for quite a while - I now have the same problem. I see that you have done a number of the upgrades, that is what I am currently working on.

Z-braces? Squash balls legs or any leg improvements? Adding extra weight to the printer xD

May God bless you like nobody's wotching.

This is cool, but for me I actually turned on infill before walls and it made the stringing better/less,

Anybody else end up with a box that gets perminently stuck together even after hours of sanding and fitting? On my second one and im about to give up on it. Anycubic photon. Printed at 25degrees. Anycubic white resin.

How did you get such a smooth print from the base of the model that connects to the raft?

I keep having problems with the mono x, supports keep failing me on this model. what kind of settings you're using?

Hi Igor, thank you for the video! Is there any workaround for getting the .m3 addon to work in newer versions of blender?

When I got my X! its prints were nearly perfect, from every angle. No tricks of light etc, they really were perfect. Now 6 months later the quality is not as good as it was at the beginning. Im trying to figure out how to get the original quality back. I wish artillery would post a calibration guide they use in building the machine because it really was excellent. I can see from the picture of your calibration cube you got a lemon. Something is wrong there. I know you know that, but just want to say because yeah, out of the box mine printed amazing. 100%

Good videos Igor, thanks for sharing

How do you do the extruder calibration without Octoprint?

wow, that wobble on the rtight rod tho... definitely noticable on the print.

good video

What print settings would you recommend for PETG in general? My extruder is set to 235°C, build plate to 80°C with print speed at 50 mm/s. These seem okay but it could be better. Also rafts seem near impossible to detach from prints and from the build plate.

Thanks it really did improve my prints

I have the feeling it matters that PETG must be really dry. Keep it in a closed box with silica gel that was dried at 110 degrees in an over. And after a week it prints totally hassle free and very strong.

Hi, In the video before you said that you removed the Z Belt and the Z Top Bearings, and in this video it seems that everything is in the printer. Can you show how it ends your printer with all the modifications? theres no Z Belt and no Top Z Bearings? I have and X1 and a Genius and I want to have better prints. I asking you cause you said that this modifications make something and they are easy to do. Thanks!!!