Troubleshooting Artillery Sidewinder X1 | Part 4

Troubleshooting Artillery Sidewinder X1 | Part 4 | Z Axis Couplers Replacement

Рет қаралды 27,818

4 жыл бұрын

#3dprinting #3dprinter #fdm
This is the forth video on print quality improvement of Artillery Sidewinder X1 3D printer. In this video I'm covering Z axis couplers replacement. I also demonstrate, how to easily align the X axis, so it it parallel to the frame.
Part 1 of this series: • Troubleshooting Artill...
Part 2 of this series: • Troubleshooting Artill...
Part 3 of this series: • Troubleshooting Artill...
Firmware livestream: • Artillery Sidewinder X...
Spider couplers: amzn.to/386VK9M
CR-10 alignment blocks: www.thingiverse.com/thing:338...
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Пікірлер: 63

@lllBAMlll 3 жыл бұрын

i added a CR-10 Z stabilizer kit to the SWX1 yesterday. Works good, easy if you dont mind drilling a few holes. I placed it on the rear of the printer.

@owenaddams 2 жыл бұрын

A video on replacing the belts would be great!!!

@TheBitterBeard 4 жыл бұрын

Thank you for making this video, fantastic stuff! Please make another video with any board updates or changes you do. This printer is perfect for what I use it for, I don't seem to have the same print issues you are having but have the same version of X1.

@scottsherrard 4 жыл бұрын

The z brace fixed my x1. I was trying to print transparent petg and wanted a perfect first layer for clarity so I went to extremes and used a dial indicator. In leveling the bed I bumped the top of the printer and noticed the gauge moving wildly. Barely touching it will move the gauge. The base of the printer is flexing where two z uprights connect to the base. I compared it to my ender 3 and the x1 definitely needs z bracing. Now the quality of my first layer and overall prints are amazing. May not be your problem but something to look at.

@narada4421 4 жыл бұрын

One guy on youtube suggested to replace the cooling can with a 40x40x20 fan, which should reduce the variations of the temperature of the hot end. He also suggested to mod the idler, because it is not ridget. I designed my own idler with flaps on the right and left side, and it is way more steady now. However, print quality did not improve much. I might buy a 20mm fan just to try it out. After seeing everyone struggling i think it really might be the extruder rather than the Z axis

@tcroft 4 жыл бұрын

Z axis stabiliser would be a great video :)

@oscardesignstudios 3 жыл бұрын

I got the same Eddie's shirt lol keep rocking

@stevesloan6775 3 жыл бұрын

So honest... my X1 has really punched way above it’s weight. I had the traditional snapping idler arm. Fixed that and swapped out the nozzle and it soldered on. 😊

@gabesszor1 3 жыл бұрын

wow, that wobble on the rtight rod tho... definitely noticable on the print.

@stevesloan6775 3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the X1 support! Indispensable work with a sh#t and giggle thrown in for good measure!😏🤜🏼🤛🏼🇦🇺🍀🍀🍀🤓

@IgorsWorkshop 3 жыл бұрын

Thx :)

@aizendastan4424 3 жыл бұрын

Hell Sir can you please the link on the specification of the coupler that you used thank you very much

@mytime34 3 жыл бұрын

The link to amazon shows 3 different size couplers, what is the correct size?

@ew7007 4 жыл бұрын

Hi Igor. Nice job on the video. Thanks! After watching it I wondered how you finished the tops of the leadscrews. Did you put the bearings back in place? I ended up buying an Artillery Genius rather than the Sidewinder. I liked the changes they made to this model perhaps from learning their mistakes with the Sidewinder. I figured that I could live with a smaller build volume for now and I'm pretty happy with it. I have spent the last week calibrating and adjusting settings in Cura. There is no good profile for the Genius in Cura so I loaded a Sidewinder profile and have been modding that. I don't have any Z banding but I did have a nasty seam on round parts and found I was over extruding somewhat both in E steps and Flow Multiplier. I also updated my firmware to incorporate Linear Advance and have been making some changes. It is getting better but I am extremely picky haha. I have not touched my leadscrews or couplers yet but am planning on doing so soon. I don't know how bad the stock controller is and I don't think I'd personally change it unless I find a good reason to do so. Thanks again for all your help. Your experience and videos helped me make an informed decision with my purchase.

@IgorsWorkshop 4 жыл бұрын

Thanks! No, I did not put the bearings back. This was recommended by Artillery support, and this also makes sense from the geometry standpoint

@creativ01 4 жыл бұрын

Whats the major differences between Sidewinder and Genius? Or what improvements has Genius against Sidewinder? I was looking on it, but i dont like a lot of plastic pieces there. Whole top frame, and also X-axies are holding on plastic holders.

@ew7007 4 жыл бұрын

@@creativ01 I think the biggest difference (besides a smaller build volume) are the improvements to the ribbon cable connectors. The Genius uses a PCI style connector to make the ribbon cable connection from the gantry to the enclosure base and more of a locking type connector for the ribbons on the X axis. It has a pre-wired 4 pin connector under the print head cover for ABL. The Z axis leadscrew anti-backlash system has been changed and of course the plastic parts you mentioned. When I first started looking at reviews for the Genius I saw that there was that plastic top cross member and the other parts and was kind of turned off by that but it is solid and very rigid. The parts seem to be a good quality injection molding (not 3D printed) and it does not seem to take away from the overall strength of the gantry. With the larger Sidewinder X1 the glass bed had reportedly suffered from warping and I think the smaller size of the Genius mitigates this to some degree. I adjusted my Z-endstop down a little and tightened the bed down to compress the springs and was able to get all 4 corners and the center of the bed very, very flat. Hope that helps.

@creativ01 4 жыл бұрын

@@ew7007 Thank you.

@ew7007 4 жыл бұрын

@@IgorsWorkshop Brand new video about the SX1 Z issues. You should watch it and see what you think. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/kLWKZNRyudGcnqc.html

@leeo.alexander2324 3 жыл бұрын

I have owned my SWX1 for just over a year now. During this time period, I had to replace some items that went bad and made upgrades that appear to work quite well. Just this week I have experienced an issue with the extruder not heating properly. I am getting the error message that "Heating fail; with heater ID." I did find that the heater cartridge was bad and I replaced it. But I am still getting the error message. The extruder at room temperature is good, 26C when the printer is turned on. When I set the temperature to 190 or 210, the temperature would fluctuate to 27c and back to 24c or 26c and then falls and then gives me the error message. All cables and connectors have been checked with an ohmmeter that shows that they are good. Should I just reflash the firmware to reset the PID settings to get rid of the error message or do you think that something else is maybe causing this problem?

@odo98 4 жыл бұрын

thanks good video, I´m from colombia and have a new Sw X1, the belt in Z you don´t use anymore whit this couplings?

@IgorsWorkshop 4 жыл бұрын

No, I've taken it off. I don't see a point in keeping it.

@JasonEllingsworth 3 жыл бұрын

I think my game plan might be to use this machine for a year(since it is my first) without getting too much in to tinkering, only doing a little here and there for the experience. I plan on replacing it with a higher quality printer around 1,000 usd

@KonradMasternak 3 жыл бұрын

How is this modification working for you over time? For me its just before i will change this to exact same as you got

@richarnaud7794 4 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the vid. Stupid question. In the video you don't ever mention or even take any vid of the top of the z rods..Did you put the bushings back in? Or anything? I figured if you put the top bushings back in it kind of defeats the purpose and you will have an over constrained Z rod? I left the bushings out so know they just clank on the housing everty time the z moves..Is that what you have? Or is there some kind of plastic bushing with more clearance to put back in at the top so atleast it doesnt touch the metal thru hole..Sorry if I missed that if you did mention it..:)

@wskwong2000 2 жыл бұрын

What's the length of the Z rod?

@TheLazyHatGuy 4 жыл бұрын

I'm new to 3D printing so I was wondering why do you want wobble in the z screws? Wouldn't that lead to bad print?

@IgorsWorkshop 4 жыл бұрын

No, it will not. They are floating in the middle (Artillery actually designed that piece pretty well), so it will compensate for the z rods being not 100% straight

@garybarbourii8274 4 жыл бұрын

Better to square to the top of the gantry, if you can manage to get the upper rail square. I am willing to bet your whole gantry pitches like an a-frame... I had to shim mine. Also you forgot to Check the belt alignment on the top. You should make sure the slack on the front and rear of the belt are equal when it is level or the backlash will be huge. You do this by loosening one of the belt pulleys and tightening it when you're happy with the feel of everything. The alignment of the top bearing plates is important, too but challenging since the belt is a bit to big to allow optimal spacing. Its a bit like juggling to get it all right at the same time. I had to compromise and pull my lead screws apart a bit more than I would have liked to achieve any belt tension at all.

@IgorsWorkshop 4 жыл бұрын

Hmmm... Squareness of the upper rail is probably the one thing I haven't checked. Thanks for the suggestion! As for the top belt and the bearings - I've removed them as per Artillery support's recommendation.

@briancruz4090 4 жыл бұрын

hey Igor, did they fix the Ribbon cable issue with the V4?

@IgorsWorkshop 4 жыл бұрын

No, they don't have any clamps. It's really recommended to print and add your own. There are multiple designs available on Thingiverse. Without clamps, there's a good chance of burning the cable and/or the connector, unless you closely monitor the cable and ensure it's seated properly. Many people on the Internet are complaining about it.

@12345FranticS 4 жыл бұрын

привет Игорь, у меня вопрос, почему ты мерял уровень от платформы, а не от стола (я про z-leveling blocks), ведь стол может быть не параллелен платформе?

@IgorsWorkshop 4 жыл бұрын

Хороший вопрос :) С одной стороны да, стол может быть не параллелен корпусу, с другой стороны стол-то регулируется. Так что по-моему имеет смысл выровнять gantry по корпусу, а потом выровнять стол так, чтобы он был параллелен оси X.

@FJAleman 3 жыл бұрын

Hi, In the video before you said that you removed the Z Belt and the Z Top Bearings, and in this video it seems that everything is in the printer. Can you show how it ends your printer with all the modifications? theres no Z Belt and no Top Z Bearings? I have and X1 and a Genius and I want to have better prints. I asking you cause you said that this modifications make something and they are easy to do. Thanks!!!

@ThunderPantz01 3 жыл бұрын

@ Igor's Workshop UP THE IRON's IGOR!

@IgorsWorkshop 3 жыл бұрын

UP THE IRONS!!!

@altcoins8491 4 жыл бұрын

What artillery Version is your printer? V4?

@IgorsWorkshop 4 жыл бұрын

Yes, it's V4

@mepickulongtime 4 жыл бұрын

Left z-rod wobbles quite a bit.

@IgorsWorkshop 4 жыл бұрын

Yep. That's one of the reasons to remove the top bearings. The contraption, containing the nut, allows it to slide from side to side, and this wobble is (theoretically) not transferred to the axis. The axis itself is constrained by the gantry.

@Sebbzorx 4 жыл бұрын

How to fix the wobble properly: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/kLWKZNRyudGcnqc.html

@dawgofrick3 4 жыл бұрын

You should check out Cameron Mitchell's video "Z Wobble Repair." He was having Z banding issues & was able to fine tune them out after a lot of fiddling. Maybe his technique could help.

@IgorsWorkshop 4 жыл бұрын

Yeah, I've seen that video. I don't think I have the classic "z wobble". The layer irregularities are semi-random. Sometimes they occur at the same height, sometimes they don't. And they don't always go around the entire model. Anyway, I'll probably get myself a gauge and check everything.

@seventail 4 жыл бұрын

Where did you buy your machine?

@IgorsWorkshop 4 жыл бұрын

Gearbest

@icanc0 4 жыл бұрын

can we have a comparison please?

@PrintermanBln 4 жыл бұрын

And what about the synchro-belt?

@IgorsWorkshop 4 жыл бұрын

I've taken it off, as it was recommended by Artillery support. It didn't make much sense anyway.

@linearburn8838 2 жыл бұрын

I cant even get my x1 to print correctly it could be the fact I dont know much im super new to 3d printing

@too_tricky5759 3 жыл бұрын

The gantry made a big difference to me.

@garyr5358 4 жыл бұрын

Why do you want it to wobble?

@IgorsWorkshop 4 жыл бұрын

To compensate for various mechanical deviations, like Z screws being not 100% straight or not 100% centered.

@MrHaddow777 4 жыл бұрын

Just saw a video ( kzfaq.info/get/bejne/kLWKZNRyudGcnqc.html ) that looks like it might solve your issues. this guy found out that the z-axis stepper motors could be out of alignment, causing the screwing guide to warp and wobble. He also used the same technique to find out that his x-axis alignment was off. He said it solved his banding issues, which appears to be what you are trying to correct as well. Hope this helps. I will be trying it myself soon and will try to get back to you if it works for me.