Im in and out of a 200 mile raidus of the DFW metroplex. I have ran into many more diamondback rattlesnakes and other unsavory creatures than people. Nice to think ill have a chance to live another day to put in another pool....make another video

Just go into the timer setting and select "off" and then "save"

Hi gunner0322. If you have a spa system with no blower, you likely have a venturi system with draws in air as the water is flowing through the jets. This is usually fed through inlets at the top of the spa. These often times look like small circular discs on the top rim of the spa. Regardless of where exactly they are located, if these air inlets become clogged with any debris (such as organics, dirt, etc) they will choke of the air inlet and reduce the amount of air introduced to the jets when flowing. The first place to start is to locate and confirm that these inlets are clean. Most venturi caps are removable and then cleaned out. Obstructions can be lodged at times due to the vacuum created in this design to feed air into the system. Give that a shot and let me know if it fixes your issue.

@@CrystalEdgePools thank you!

Yes, this will work for diagnosis. It is tougher on a 4 barrel system and the manifold would be removed during this test. Typically with 4 cartridge systems we recommend just replacing the cartridges rather than trying this test.

Great to hear!

Im glad the video helped to narrow down the problem. There are far too many crooked or ignorant contractors/maintenance people who are more than happy to sell you parts and equipment when the problem is so simple. You bring up 2 very important points with your comment: 1. Everything in the pool water will go through the filter. Chemical additives can be hard on the filters construction depending on what they are. Floc is a product thats designed to clump heavy particulates together (such as dirt). Adding this to a flowing filter will clog the filter because of this. When adding floc-out to a body of water, it should be done while the pool is off and then left to sit for 8-24 hours to ensure that everything has gathered on the pool floor. When restarted, it should then be vacuumed out immediately and the filter removed and rinsed upon completion. When we do initial cleanouts after construction, we hook a hose up to the pump outlet and eject this heavy material right out of the pool. After we finish with removal, we then rehook the plumbing back up and filter the fine cleaning. (It should be noted that doing this process will drain the pool down because you are ejecting and not recirculating. We usually overfill the pool to the very top of the skimmer so that it ends up halfway down 'or at normal operating level' when we are done. We have removed an entire skid steer bucket of sand that was accidentally ddropped into the water with this method and never drained the pool during the process. We often times will be filling the pool while we are doing this process just to ensure that we do not lose too much water depending on how much dirt needs to be ejected) 2. Constant chemical additives should not be necessary for a properly designed and running system. We see these weekly "pool maintenace techs" over treating water constantly down here. Many times when we follow behind them we find out they are overchlorinating the pool, not cleaning filters and constantly "shocking" the pool (often times weekly or monthly). This is because (just like many people who can buy and push a lawnmower arent actually landscapers) most of these guys have bought a net and a vacuum and call themselves "techs". Whether on purpose, or through ignorance, they create a chemical soup for you to swim in because it provides a temporary appearance improvement and sells more chemicals on their weekly bill. Additives are necessary at times, but should never be a constant part of pool maintenance. The systems we construct for our customers keep their pools sparkling clear with no additives and 1 (or less) 3" chlorine tablet per week in 105+ degree temperatures. Im not saying you specifically are doing this, but im using the opportunity to warn people. Be wary of advice to keep adding chemicals constantly. You often dont need a change to the chemistry as much as a change to the system.

Boy, im sure sorry to hear that! The pipes with the 90's are likely for venturi air (air introduced to the spa system through vacuum when the water is pumped through the jets at a high rate of speed). Many spas use this system and it usually works fine. We started adding blowers for 2 reasons: 1. On demand air through sealed plumbing 2. Venturis can get clogged at times Its hard to know how things have been plumbed after a pool is finished, and we can only hope it was done correctly. However, I have seen jets act as inlets on a spa to feed the venturi. I dont know if thats the problem on this, but it might be. Usually an air blower can be added to a system you are describing if it was plumbed correctly. They are relatively cheap and run off either 120 or 240 from your subpanel (depending on which blower you choose). Im not telling you to do this, but it can be an option. The rule for blower size is 1/4 hp for each jet (i.e. 6 jets= 1.5 hp blower). Should you elect to do this, it may fix your problrm, or it may not. I have to emphasize that because i do not know your pool plumbing i can only throw it out as an idea and cannot guarantee results, functionality or possible future problems on the system. One way i would try to determine validity of this approach would be to take a shop vac (with the hose on the blower side) and try to introduce air through your pipes. If you get the result you are looking for, you may consider a blower addition. Again though, because i cant verify how your spa was plumbed i can only throw it out there as an idea and not a suggestion. **Make sure the blower is mounted 1' above the water level of the spa when installed!!! Many people add them too low and not only will they not perform right, they can also receive water back up into the blower (even if they have a check valve)** Dont lose heart! Usually there is always a way to fix these problems!

@@CrystalEdgePools Thank you for the detailed response. Makes good sense. Will see how I go about it.

I know........and alot of these guys are charging but not doing it (as you can see on our 4 cartridge cleaning video). Pool maintenance should be easy!

Hi KC6442. Pentair does actually make a 200 sq. ft. single cartridge filter (we used to install them when we gave pentair a shot over about 100 pools). Im not sure exactly why they are such a maintenance item for you on your pool without seeing it, but do remember that a cartridge is a sacrificial item that will wear out periodically. Usually when you have psi changes that often, you are simply coming to the end of their lifespan. Just like an oil filter on your car, it can only efficiently filter for so long. If you are having this problem with NEW cartridges, please respond and let me know further about your pool. There may be another issue.

@CrystalEdgePools thank you, sir, for this much needed knowledge. I'm a diy guy. But, I certainly appreciate it

Thank you very much!

This is normal. No worries! Just make sure the gasket is good under the cap and snug (hand tight)

Start at the middle between the 2 and just ensure that the skimmer draws enough to keep top water debris going in

Ok. How can i help?

True story

Im not sure what you are referring to.....can you be more specific?

You're welcome!

Congratulations on being a new pool owner! Yes, its very likely. Over 75% of flow problems are filter related

Authority

Proactive Protection. I also use seatbelts, lock my doors at night, keep my tires rotated, etc.

Once a week if not landscaped around or alot of flying debris, once every 3 if not

Noted. We will cover in a future video. Thanks for the suggestion!

Great point. Those are usually controlled through an app with an automation system. I will put together a video on that soon. We will set up a Jandy iaqualink and walk through JVA's. Thanks for the feedback!

I dont understand the need to comment. The video explains very clearly why and when it wouldnt apply. But because this seems to be such a hot button issue, let me just refer back to basic science classes.... a larger surface area exposed to wind will evaporate at a different rate than a smaller one. Ill take 900+ pool experience on that. Regardless of whether you agree with it, you still wont find chlorine occuring naturally around a pool. You are not helping anyone by arguing a scientific impossibilty. Keep on bucket testing to find pool leaks!

Jurys out....

Yes, you can. I am just trying to suggest the easiest way

Many many thanks

Yes, they can get clogged. Disassemble it, check the spray nozzle and straw. Also check both sides of it where the quick disconnects attach. I recommend blowing everything out with compressed air and reassembling. All plastic, all easily disassembled/reassembled. ***Make sure you dont lose any gaskets!***

The uv should always be on when the pump is running. Its just light and very low power consumption. The only time they shut off is with a slow down of flow below the flow switch protection

Do you mean the collar joining the 2 halves, or a different part?

Happy to help!

Great job!

Mostly to the pool with a little to the spa. I move the larger body of water more

Some customers opt for the manual and some opt for the automated. Both can be oprated manually though so i though this woukd help the most

Cool idea